RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 16, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2019 18 minutes ago, NHY 581 said: Here you go, St E. Ah, thanks Rob - so it was my ageing memory after all. That's what being another year older and deeper in debt than I was yesterday does for you. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted June 16, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2019 10 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Very nice Captain. Please tell us, or remind us if you already have and I've forgotten, what is the provenance of the goods shed. Rob has kindly provided you with the link. Yes, the goods shed, together with the matching small office building, were scratchbuilt by Paul Iliff a few years ago, for a model of Cadeleigh (Exe Valley line) that he had started at the time, but decided not to proceed with, due to a change to 7mm scale. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted June 20, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2019 I have been preparing my Dean Goods for weathering by Tom Foster here - 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Captain Kernow Posted June 28, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 28, 2019 I have finally finished the cobbling and gave them an initial wash with some diluted enamels this morning: I've also been preparing a Dapol Class 22, to send to Tom Foster for weathering (permanently attaching the skirts, attaching buffer beam pipework and screw couplings): 15 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted June 28, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2019 That’s the best load of old cobbles ive seen since I retired from BR. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted June 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2019 Good stuff CK. I must say those cobbles look an absolute treat. Seeing your 22 makes me wish I had picked up one when they were reduced..... Rob 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Asterix2012 Posted June 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2019 How did you do the cobbles? They look really good 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted June 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2019 Splendid work CK. I do like the colour. It does look right. I admire your application for a the task of consistently sized scribing. I get fed up with the task and it often goes wayward! 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 4, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2019 On 28/06/2019 at 21:10, Asterix2012 said: How did you do the cobbles? They look really good Hi Asterix, The material for the cobbles is a layer of bog standard B&Q white tile grout, which is spread over the baseboard, a layer of PVA might help it to adhere, but I don't think it's vital to do this. Once the tile grout has hardened off (smooth it as best you can while it's still wet), it will then need sanding to as smooth a finish as you can get. I use ordinary sandpaper for this, a fairly fine grain. This part can be messy, so a vacuum cleaner to take the dust away is helpful. When the tile grout is smoothed off, mark pencil dots at 2mm intervals on both sides of the roadway to be scribed. Then draw a thin pencil line to join each dot up with that opposite. Each pencil line across the roadway should then be scribed, with a steel pin held in a pin vice and using a metal straight edge. Keep removing the dust this generates, either blow it away (there's not so much as sandpapering) or use the vacuum cleaner. You should then end up with a series of parallel, scribed lines at 2mm intervals across the roadway. You can then begin to scribe the 'verticals' freehand, again using the pin in the pin vice. Each cobble (or granite sett) can be about 3mm long, but it's important to vary this slightly, to give a bit of variety. There are photos further up this thread, showing some of the progress on 'Bethesda Sidings'. 2 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 4, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2019 For the last couple of days, I have mostly been sorting the yard crane for 'Bethesda Sidings' out, together with a small brick plinth for it to be mounted on. Photos to follow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2019 3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: For the last couple of days, I have mostly been sorting the yard crane for 'Bethesda Sidings' out, together with a small brick plinth for it to be mounted on. Photos to follow. Would this be the Mikes Models GWR jobbie, CK? Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 5, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2019 The yard crane is actually the very serviceable Wills plastic kit one. I have acquired another kit of a different pattern from a kind person on this forum, but that will now be used on a different project. I built a small plinth from plasticard for the crane to sit on: I sprayed the finished crane and the plinth this afternoon with red oxide primer, as a precursor to further painting. The crane will be sprayed with a grey topcoat, yet to decide exactly which hue and the plinth will be brush painted: I need to think about how to deal with the fuzzy nature of the 'rope' attached to the hook. I brush-painted dilute PVA on the bit hanging down from the jib, under tension, to ensure it remained more or less straight, but even that is still a bit to 'fuzzy' for my liking. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2019 I used twisted fuse wire on Bleat 's crane CK. Despite several stern words, it will invariably dangle in an irregular fashion as demonstrated below. { still need to put the guard rails around the crane platform } A nice chap recommended 'steel hawser' from Green scene as a suitable substitute. If they are at Railwells, I shall be seeking them out. Rob. 8 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 5, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2019 I've started the painstaking process of gradually de-fluffing the crane's 'rope' by careful use of a sharp scalpel and some tweezers. I have also got some of the remaining hairy bits to lie down flatter by applying some neat MekPak with a brush. I am going to try, for now, to apply a little black enamel paint, let that dry and harden and then gradually and carefully sand it smoother. It does seem to be looking a bit better already after the start of that process, but I shall also seek out Greenscene, if they are at Wells! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 (edited) I think Robs use of twisted fusewire is probably the best solution, I have used it to good effect on previous projects, even to the nerdy extent of creating a peg-board using pins and twisting it between them to get a final chain effect. G p.s. I've just had a rather nice Belgian Raspberry Beer ! Edited July 5, 2019 by bgman 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2019 I've just checked. It appears that Greenscene are not at Railwells. However, Black Lion Crossing is there, along with Farringdon..... Whoop!, Whoop!! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted July 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2019 Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2019 36 minutes ago, Re6/6 said: Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground! Add a load to the hook and some blokes discussing how best to load it - see Little Muddle's dairy scene for inspiration. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 6, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Stubby47 said: and some blokes discussing Or perhaps this?: 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2019 7 hours ago, Re6/6 said: Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground! In my case, it was intended that the hook would rest on the ground. However, due to being economical with the maths, this did not prove to be the case. Rob. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 10, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2019 On 06/07/2019 at 08:30, Re6/6 said: Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground! I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!' I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder. 1 1 1 2 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!' I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder. There now, that wasn't too hard to do was it ! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!' I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder. I cheated and rested the hook of my crane on the ground, I like the idea of twisted wire. Might try that in other places I need to model rope. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted July 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2019 4 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!' I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder. I only clicked "funny" to give you a full house of reactions... 2 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted July 10, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2019 Nice one Saint! Greavsie 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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