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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Hi Dan, I am looking forward to seeing it good old plain blue but I'm not in a hurry as there is still a bit to sort out on it. Thankfully it's a model that looks just as good in the brass as painted.

 

The headcodes do come out easily with a push from behind so you will need to remove the body Vin. But this is the first model to have a cast recepticle for the body fixing screws so you should be able to screw and unscrew till your hearts content unlike previous models where the body fixing screws were just self tappers into a small plastic housing that could easily strip the thread. I will try and take a picture later Vin.

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I have decided to fit each coach of the "Thumper" with it's own pick-ups rather than a jumper cable between each coach. I used 4mm sleeper strip attached to the bolster and some phospher bronze strip soldered on for the pick-ups. I would like to think I could get away with just one bogie on each coach with pick-ups, we shall see when I get to run it soon if the lights flicker or not. I have fitted the driving trailer with it's red/white LED worked from a Hornby loco decoder. This will also operate the ESU light strip, when I get some more of them.

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Fill the slots with plasticscene?

 

Use countersunk screws and as above?

 

It's a trick I used to use with Romford wheels, once painted, they disappear, but can soon be had back if needed.

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You are quite  right Ozzyo, they do detract from the front view somewhat. I will have a look to see what can be done as even when it's painted under there once weathered it would bring them out again.

 

Hello Brian,

 

thank you for not taking it as a criticism of your build. If you have to have the screws in place to hold things together could you use countersunk screws with the slots filled in? I know a lot will depend on the thickness of the front plate and what the screws are going into as well.   

 

It can work, if you only have the C/S screw heads flush with the outer beam and you have to C/S what the screws are going into, so that you will not notice the screw slot. If you try on one side first I think you will see what I mean. Keep one of the cheese heads in place and then do the counter sunk side, then do the second side. It may not look a lot to hold them in place but it will work. The counter sink will work as an aliment "peg".

 

OzzyO. 

 

EDIT for this PS.

 

This is what I'm trying to say,

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Edited by ozzyo
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Just to go back to the sound decoder, would a JLTRT diesel with, say, once ABC power bogie, need the XL decoder?

 

 

Jeff

 

It would depend on the motor but probably not. However 2 things to bear in mind, the XL has a stay alive circuit built in the the Loksound V4 doesn't and they cost about £34 to buy and require some deft soldering to fit. The second thing is that when you power both bogies on a diesel its like 2+2 = 10, its amazing the improvement in performance, I have recently done it on a 37 and I am now going back to the few I have that are single bogie powered to double those up. If you use the abc diesel bogie gear box with a maxon motor though, you can get away with just using a V4 loksound chip to power both, and the pair are only about the price of one of their power bogies.

 

Richard

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However 2 things to bear in mind, the XL has a stay alive circuit built in the the Loksound V4 doesn't....

Richard, are you sure about the Loksound?   I have fitted a Loksound V4 to Peter's Pannier tank and that has had an ESU "Keep-alive" added to the decoder (both parts from SWD).

 

As to Jeff's question, I discussed ESU decoders with Brian Clapperton when fitting two ABC motor bogies to a JLTRT Cl.37 and Brian's answer was that a Loksound V4 (or Lokpilot V4) could cope with the Maxxon motor.  So our Cl.37 has two motor bogies with a Loksound V4 for one bogie and a Lokpilot V4 for the other bogie.  There are people who say that an ESU Loksound (Pilot) V4 decoder can cope with two ABC motor bogies - Brian Clapperton suggested to me that such a move was not best practice.

 

regards, Graham

Edited by Western Star
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So, on say, a shed layout, a Western with ONE ABC power bogie?

Jeff, you need to put that question to Ian Allcroft who is one of the builders of Bridge Norton (RM Sept 2013) because:-

 

a) Bridge Norton is like a shed layout;

b) Ian has fitted two ABC motor bogies to Westerns.

 

regards, Graham

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The Loksound XL4 has the stay alive circuitry built in you can see the 2 capacitors on the board and it definitely works in my Deltic.

 

Brain Clapperton has his views on Loksound chips but they are not the same as mine, I'm using a loksound V4 with 2 ABC maxon powered gearboxes wired in parallel on my 37 and it all works just fine with a large 4 ohm speaker. I will fit a stay alive to this in due course but its running without one now.

 

The power bogies from ABC that I have seen have all been powered by mashima motors, I'm not sure that a single loksound V4 would be able to power 2 of those without overload, but it might. I know of others who have used a V4 to power both motors in parallel on Heljan locos, I'm going to try this on one shortly but it might turn out to be an expensive experiment.

I also don't think that the ABC power bogie offers any advantage over the JLTRT resin bogie and delrin chain.

 

Graham, how are you going to fit the brakes and get sufficient clearance between the wheels and the brake blocks to avoid shorts on the abc power bogie, you will also find that the pullrods are too short.

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The Loksound XL4 has the stay alive circuitry built in you can see the 2 capacitors on the board and it definitely works in my Deltic.

 

Brain Clapperton has his views on Loksound chips but they are not the same as mine, I'm using a loksound V4 with 2 ABC maxon powered gearboxes wired in parallel on my 37 and it all works just fine with a large 4 ohm speaker. I will fit a stay alive to this in due course but its running without one now.

 

The power bogies from ABC that I have seen have all been powered by mashima motors, I'm not sure that a single loksound V4 would be able to power 2 of those without overload, but it might. I know of others who have used a V4 to power both motors in parallel on Heljan locos, I'm going to try this on one shortly but it might turn out to be an expensive experiment.

I also don't think that the ABC power bogie offers any advantage over the JLTRT resin bogie and delrin chain.

 

Graham, how are you going to fit the brakes and get sufficient clearance between the wheels and the brake blocks to avoid shorts on the abc power bogie, you will also find that the pullrods are too short.

 

 

The Loksound XL4 has the stay alive circuitry built in you can see the 2 capacitors on the board and it definitely works in my Deltic.

 

...how are you going to fit the brakes and get sufficient clearance between the wheels and the brake blocks to avoid shorts on the abc power bogie, you will also find that the pullrods are too short.

Richard,

 

Apologies, I realise that my post is ambiguous.  I accept that the Loksound XL V4 has keep-alive circuitry, I was commenting that the Loksound V4 has keep-alive circuitry as our decoder is fitted with an ESU product.

 

I fear that your warnings about getting the brakes (etc.) to fit without trouble are well-founded.  Somehow I shall work out a solution.  BTW, surely the length of the push-rods is going to affect a bogie irrespective of how the bogie is designed / manufactured?

 

regards, Graham

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Graham

 

I was just pointing out the cost of the V4 to an Xl which isn't that different as a stay alive equipped V4 is about £130, £96 for the chip and £34 for the ESU power pack.

 

Yes the the length of the push rods isn't helpful for any kind of chassis, but for the resin chassis should a brake touch the wheel it doesn't cause a short so they only require a little bit of filing to fix, for my brass chassis I resorted to getting my own longer version etched.

 

Richard

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