Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!

[the penguin of doom]

Very nice work that Brian.

 

I managed to get a Shawplan roof fan from Scalfour North for my 27 and I'm glad I did.

 

One thing while I'm on for you or any other Mcrat followers. Last weekend, I took about 50 detail photo's of 26 038 at the KWVR. I'd like to post them for others to use, but there doesn't seem to be a class 26/27 group on here. Where would be best to post them? Anyone know?

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[brian daniels]

Hi Sean

 

Shame you did not get some class 27 pictures! Do you have a Flickr account to put the 26 pictures up on?

 

Here are some pictures with the pipework added. And a couple showing the cab details.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[P.C.M]

Very nice work that Brian.

 

I managed to get a Shawplan roof fan from Scalfour North for my 27 and I'm glad I did.

 

One thing while I'm on for you or any other Mcrat followers. Last weekend, I took about 50 detail photo's of 26 038 at the KWVR. I'd like to post them for others to use, but there doesn't seem to be a class 26/27 group on here. Where would be best to post them? Anyone know?

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Hi Sean,

What about in the prototype section. Title something like 'Class 26 detail pics.'

 

Cheers Peter.

[the penguin of doom]

Hi Brian/Peter.

 

Brian, nice work on the 27, really looking the part, even before the paint goes on. A 27 was apparentley pencilled in for the KWVR gala, but was not there on the day for whatever reason, so I had to "make do" with the 26, he heh. She was running smashingly though and I enjoyed a couple of trips behind her and was very impressed. No prizes for guessing which will be my 26 of choice when I get round to detailing my Heljan model!

 

Peter, thanks for your suggestion, I'll do that over the coming days and then others may also wish to add to the thread too.

 

Cheers, (and sorry for the minor hijack.....).

 

Sean.

[steve1023]

Brian - I have just been looking through your thread. Amazing modelling.

 

I have a couple of quick questions - sometime back I was considering getting a class 33 as a side project but didn't proceed past the thinking stage - how easy are these to make for a beginner? - your class 33/1 has resown the seed in my mind, also there was an article in one of the modelling magazines about constructing a JLTRT class 37 (i think it was finished in large logo IIRC) maybe in the last 2 years - I don't suppose anybody knows which magazine/month/year it was in do they?

 

Also sorry for the minor hijack....

 

Steve

[brian daniels]

No worries about the slight wonder off topic as these questions are stil relevant to the thread as far as I am conserned.

 

It would be great to see the 26 detail pictures you took Sean just a shame there's not much on the internet on 27's. I have not got up close and personal with a 27 yet, not many of them down this neck of the woods that you get up to. I see that 27024 at the Lakeside Rlwy still has it's boiler exhaust cover and leaver but there are no close up pictures of it that I can find!

 

Steve, all the JLTRT diesels follow the same method of construction, a chassis to which you attach 2 sides then the roof is a slot and tab onto the top of the sides. The cab rear walls then go in and the cab slides over them to the sides to make a good joint. The under floor tanks screw onto the bottom of the chassis. The only bit that tests your patiance a bit is powering the bogies. It is straight forward but compared to the body takes a bit of time if it's new to you. The best route to go down would be using Slaters wheels and motors and pick-ups. One thing I do like with these kits is you get a model looking like what it's supposed to fairly quickly. I mean the 27 I am building still does not have the cabs, roof and sides glued together yet but it still works and looks like a 27.It gives you insperation to get the little details done when for all intents and purposes you have a finished model to look at. As these kits glue together they are good, in my opinion, for a first timer. As you have probably seen they can still be upgraded a little bit like the 33 and 27 roof fans and grills from Shawplan. And some of the fillers that I am putting on the 27 were not in the kit but JLTRT already make them for some of their other kits so after finding out what was needed Laurie sent them down to me. One thing you will need to do on a 33 and 37 is fill the joint of the roof to the body and try and do the best you can on this as it does show when painted. The green 33 that was on the JLTRT website did not have any filler applied in this joint but luckily the green/roof grey separation masked it to some extent but it stil stood out when I first saw it. Anyway I would go for one, it's the only way to find out! If you get any problems there are a few of us here that have built them to get you going again.

[JeffP]

Once glued up, can you get at the interior for fitting/maintenance of chips, speakers, smoke units etc?

[brian daniels]

Yes Jeff there is quiet a bit of room between the motors although on some models you have to fit the chip and speaker in sideways as there are two body fixing lugs midway down the bodysides but nothing complicated to get sorted out.

[Softvark]

I've added some detail photos of 27005 I took last summer at the Bo'ness and Kinneil railway if it's of any use to anyone - http://www.flickr.com/photos/julianbest/

 

 

Julian

[brian daniels]

Well done that man just what we need 

 

One thing I have noticed when doing the fillers is that they got changed a bit from in service to as they are now in preservation. On my 27 I am doing there was a filler halfway up the inside end of the fuel tank/batterybox that I have put on, but on 27024 and on Julian's 27005 it's not there.

[the penguin of doom]

Yes, very handy those Julian.

 

On the same subject, I have posted a thread in the prototype section with my class 26 details. I won't presume to post a link Brian, but if you feel it appropriate, please do, (or let me know).

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[JeffP]

Yes Jeff there is quiet a bit of room between the motors although on some models you have to fit the chip and speaker in sideways as there are two body fixing lugs midway down the bodysides but nothing complicated to get sorted out.

I didn't make my post clear, Brain.

Once it's all glued together, can you still get into it to retrofit, or do maintenance on the chips, speakers etc?

[brian daniels]

Yes Jeff you can access everything as the chip, speaker or smoke unit are fitted to the chassis. The bodies come off to reveal the chassis as a separate unit. I will take a picture of the 27 to show you later.

Edited May 8, 2013 by brian daniels

[JeffP]

Thanks Brian.

[brian daniels]

Here are a couple of pictures showing what room there is inside a JLTRT type 2. It's annoying that there are the two fixing lugs protruding into the middle of the body which means a Loksound chip has to go on it's side. I have just got hold of a QSI 31mm speaker to try out on my Thumper later but it's resting here to give you sence of size in here.

 

A couple of pictures of 26022 that I put sound into showing that you can get at it after it's all installed.

 

I have just added some plastic rod to represent the front gangway door hinges that were left on 27030. And done some filling of the roof joint and the join behind the cab doors.

 

 

Edited May 9, 2013 by brian daniels

[ozzyo]

Hello Brian,

 

if the two centre lugs get in the way why not drill the two unused ones at the ends and fit the brass ferrules in to them and then remove about half of the two centre ones. If you need them to stop the centre from bowing, you could drill and tap them 6 or 8BA, as the four end ones will do most of the holding of the body to the chassis.

 

OzzyO.

 

EDIT for PS.

you could remove the centre two lugs altogether by fitting two lengths of L angle brass along the inside of the stepped down section of the chassis. You would have to put two gaps through the lugs on the chassis.

Edited May 9, 2013 by ozzyo

[brian daniels]

The trouble with that Ozzyo is the two outer screws are a right pig to get at with the bogie in place so I do not use them, relying on the centre ones only.

 

I forgot to say earlier that you must not forget to drill some holes in the rear cab bulkhead to poke your wires through from the headcode and tail lights before you glue it all up.

[Cliff Williams]

Brian you should fit the Loksound XL V4 on the roof underside, horizontally.

This means that the cables for the lights can run along the underside of the roof, you have two mini plugs to the bogies for pick ups and motors.

Simple!

 

This also means when you look in the side windows you do not see coloured components on the chip!

[JeffP]

There's more to this than meets the eye, as usual.

[steve1023]

 

Steve, all the JLTRT diesels follow the same method of construction, a chassis to which you attach 2 sides then the roof is a slot and tab onto the top of the sides. The cab rear walls then go in and the cab slides over them to the sides to make a good joint. The under floor tanks screw onto the bottom of the chassis. The only bit that tests your patiance a bit is powering the bogies. It is straight forward but compared to the body takes a bit of time if it's new to you. The best route to go down would be using Slaters wheels and motors and pick-ups. One thing I do like with these kits is you get a model looking like what it's supposed to fairly quickly. I mean the 27 I am building still does not have the cabs, roof and sides glued together yet but it still works and looks like a 27.It gives you insperation to get the little details done when for all intents and purposes you have a finished model to look at. As these kits glue together they are good, in my opinion, for a first timer. As you have probably seen they can still be upgraded a little bit like the 33 and 27 roof fans and grills from Shawplan. And some of the fillers that I am putting on the 27 were not in the kit but JLTRT already make them for some of their other kits so after finding out what was needed Laurie sent them down to me. One thing you will need to do on a 33 and 37 is fill the joint of the roof to the body and try and do the best you can on this as it does show when painted. The green 33 that was on the JLTRT website did not have any filler applied in this joint but luckily the green/roof grey separation masked it to some extent but it stil stood out when I first saw it. Anyway I would go for one, it's the only way to find out! If you get any problems there are a few of us here that have built them to get you going again.

Thanks Brian. Just another quickie - are the jumper cables on your 33/1 as supplied by JLTRT or are they DJH items?

 

Steve

[brian daniels]

These are the JLTRT ones Steve. Although I did have to make my own plate and "cups" at the bottom of the front for the lower part of the air pipes to go into but I have been assured that JLTRT do this casting now.

[brian daniels]

Made a little lever to go on the boiler exhaust cover, it's not glued in yet as I am deciding whether to make a lid/cover or just leave the leaver going into the moulded rectangle as supplied.

 

 

 

Also made the small electricl box and cover under the solebar.

 

[brian daniels]

I managed to get hold of 4 Mousa Models Conflat L's recently as I have always had a soft spot for these after owning a Tri-ang one back in the very dim and distant past.

 

When you open the box what you get are 2 etches and a sprue of 3D printed parts.

 

 

 

 

The first thing to build are the solebars with the axle guards attached.

 

 

 

After this fold up the floor with the bufferbeams and attach the inside frames. The instructions show the inner frames with the U faceing inwards but all my previous kits has the U facing outwards to match the outer solebars so I put these on the same as the outer solebars facing outwards.

 

 

 

The chassis has provision for a sprung steel wire compensation. You have to clamp a piece of wire on two bearing holders and them trap the wire in a couple of etch tags when attaching the sideframes. This sort of worked but the wire could have been a heavier guage as the model just sat right down. I bent the steel wire to put a bit of downward force on the axleboxes and now it sits nicely midway in the axle guards. Mind you with the containers on the weight will make it sit right down again but at least there is a spring pushing the wheels into any track defects now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before attaching the sides I glued the axlebox and spring moulding on the axleguards. I had to brill out the hole inside the axlebox a bit more to allow some upward movement of the bearing inside of it.

 

 

Placing the sides on the floor showed up a slight problem in that the wheels had far too much side movement in the bearings. Bear in mind the kit was designed for 4mm pin point bearings. I ended up putting 2 6BA washers behind the top hat on the bearings and the etched slider to push the bearings in a bit. Worked a treat as there is now no sideplay on the wheels anymore.

 

 

The etched brake gear was folded up and attached nicely in line with the wheel treads. The vac cylinder was glued underneath to the left of the round etched tab because if you put it there the brakes will be taken off, not on! I also added a piece of thick round wire from vac pipe to vac pipe along the inner frame and added a small piece of wire to the vac cylinder.

 

 

 

 

There are some buffer bodies and vac pipes on the 3D printed sprue in the kit but there are no buffer heads or shafts so I purchased some RCH 1923 buffers from Slaters together with some of there vac pipes. The couplings are from Exactoscale that are sold via C&L now I just found out. One problem with the couplings was that they went straight through the large hole in the bufferbeam so after a search in the spares box I found an etch from CPL that had some spare plates with just the right size for the Exactoscale coupling to go through. Thankfully I have enough of these spare plates to do all 4 of the Conflats.

 

 

The chains are 2 etches to solder together and trap a hook at the top. Them attach them to the loops on the chassis.

 

 

And there you have a nice little Conflat L waiting for the containers from Mousa Models that are being done soon.

 

 

Edited May 18, 2013 by brian daniels

[emt_911]

Brian

 

An excellent how to with amazing photos.

 

Seeing your work makes me want to have a go at the senior gauge when money allows.

 

Duncan

[The Nth Degree]

That was quick!