mike knowles Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Fabulous job on the inspection saloon Brian. I somehow knew you'd get yours done before I did mine (no contest really, I haven't even started mine yet!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 (edited) Just to let you know it happens to the best of us, all the primer on the Thumper bodies has peeled off! It just did not take at all. Never had anything like this happen before. The chassis that was done a day earlier seems ok, I hope it is as they are sprayed black now. It must have been something in the soap I cleaned the bodies with last night that made it repel the primer. Anyway a bucket of cellulose thinners and a brush has removed it all, together with a windscreen wiper that's vanished into the ether! Who said this modelling lark was easy? Edited November 5, 2013 by brian daniels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Cellulose thinners, surely? And easy? Not me guv. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Just to let you know it happens to the best of us, all the primer on the Thumper bodies has peeled off! It just did not take at all. Never had anything like this happen before. The chassis that was done a day earlier seems ok, I hope it is as they are sprayed black now. It must have been something in the soap I cleaned the bodies with last night that made it repel the primer. Anyway a bucket of cellulose primer and a brush has removed it all, together with a windscreen wiper that's vanished into the ether! Who said this modelling lark was easy? Hi Brian, So sorry to hear that - could it have been a soap with Lanolin in it? I have had problems with certain types of masking tape (used when I ran out of Tamiya for a short time) lesson learned the hard way! Good luck with the repaint. Kindest, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Cellulose thinners, surely? And easy? Not me guv. Just checking to see if you were reading it all! It was a new bottle of liquid soap so obviously it was the wrong sort. Try some cheap stuff that hopefully won't have many additives in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I've always used the cheap washing up liquid Brian and gently scrubbed with a soft tooth brush taking extra care around any fine details. I can't recall having this problem ever, although just to prove I'm not gloating, I've had plenty of other paint related issues resulting in the need for full repaints or remedial work..... I do empathise with your problem too. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Hello Brian, nice looking build. One thing that I remember about the inspection saloons was that when not in use all of the curtains were closed (why was this?). What was the primer that you used on the thumper? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 It was a new bottle of liquid soap so obviously it was the wrong sort. Try some cheap stuff that hopefully won't have many additives in it. Going a little OT, but I noticed in tiny writing on Palmolive kitchen hand wash "avoid contact with marble, limestone and stainless steel". Ridiculous as these are the main components of modern kitchen sinks! What could be in it?! Paul Bartlett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Ozzyo, I would think they closed the curtains to keep prying railwaymens eyes out looking for something that was not screwed down! The kit does come with closed resin curtains if you want to hide all the lovely detail inside. The primer was the tried and tested Halfords grey stuff that's been used on all my models. I should have took a picture of it all peeled off but I was in headless chicken mode trying to get it off. I had a look at the ingredients of the soap I used and it does not say it contains Lonolin but it does have the contents of a small chemical works in it! By the way does anyone know the colour green used in southern unit cabs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Ozzyo, I would think they closed the curtains to keep prying railwaymens eyes out looking for something that was not screwed down! The kit does come with closed resin curtains if you want to hide all the lovely detail inside. The primer was the tried and tested Halfords grey stuff that's been used on all my models. You would know the first one Brian!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is very odd! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Williams Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 It has happened to me before now. The humidity when spraying also has something to do with it. Might I suggest a large loaf tin, clean your Thumper in the normal way, then dip it into a bath of fresh Cellulose. This will help remove any remaining contaminants. Then spray it with U-POL Acid 8 etch primer, lightly warm the spray can before shaking then applying, it can help as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 As you say Cliff it could have been the humidity as I spray it outside and the fact the chassis's that were done the day before are ok and I am sure I used the same liquid soap on these. I keep the spray cans in the airing cupboard and put the models in there to warm up a bit. Anyway I have just bought some odourless cheap liquid soap from Sainsbury's. Think I will try it out on one coach body at a time! I don't know what you mean Ozzyo Now where's my set of BR cutlery? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Where I live, washing a loco in tapwater would leave it with lime stains. When I get to this stage, I'm going to have to invest in some de-ionised water.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted November 6, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2013 Where I live, washing a loco in tapwater would leave it with lime stains. When I get to this stage, I'm going to have to invest in some de-ionised water.... Me too, water hard enough to knock nails through a piece of 2x4......... But if you happen to have a tumble dryer that is non vented and uses a condensor system to collect the water......you have a ready supply of distilled water, no limescale at all! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Where I live, washing a loco in tapwater would leave it with lime stains. When I get to this stage, I'm going to have to invest in some de-ionised water.... I always used boiled water or water from the hot tap that way most of the chalk has gone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Where I live, washing a loco in tapwater would leave it with lime stains. When I get to this stage, I'm going to have to invest in some de-ionised water.... Hello JeffP, buy some Litmus papers (about £1.50 a set of red and blue) and start doing some chemistry, lime = alkaline, start with one pint of water add one teaspoon of white vinegar, test, if it's still alkaline do the same, until it's not alkaline. If it ends up a bit acid that will do no harm. Once you have got the proportions correct; say three teaspoons per pint, that's 24 teaspoons (or approx 120 ml) per gallon. If you then boil it it could also help. I don't think that I'd use it in a steam iron (not unless you want to smell like a chip shop). The above should be cheaper than buying a bucket full of deionised water. You could also do it by electrolysis (is that spelt right?) but I'm not sure what you would have to use as the anode and the cathode, for the power you could use a 9 volt battery to get the smooth current. Thinking on, what was it you taught at school? Physics, (science of properties of matter and energy)? All of the above is just simple school boy (or girl) science. A tip to de-scale your kettle, add about 1/4 pint of vinegar and fill the kettle and boil it let it cool and boil it again. If you do this about once a month it should help keep your kettle clean. Ant-acid tablets work in the same way, only the other way around, most of them are made of chalk (alkaline). It's now daft time, if you get stung by a jelly fish pour vinegar on the wound, it will help. How do I know? Don't ask!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. PS. how's 60136 Alczar coming on? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I always used boiled water or water from the hot tap that way most of the chalk has gone. I'm a bit confused by this statement. I thought that hard water meant that it had an above average amount of minerals in it. If that's true, boiling will make some of the H2O evaporate away, but the minerals don't, so whatever is left in the pot would be even harder than when you started! How does boiling help? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I'm a bit confused by this statement. I thought that hard water meant that it had an above average amount of minerals in it. If that's true, boiling will make some of the H2O evaporate away, but the minerals don't, so whatever is left in the pot would be even harder than when you started! How does boiling help? The element in the kettle attracts some of the lime in the water, but not all of it. See my post above. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Me too, water hard enough to knock nails through a piece of 2x4......... But if you happen to have a tumble dryer that is non vented and uses a condensor system to collect the water......you have a ready supply of distilled water, no limescale at all! We have a dehumidifier I sometimes use, and store the water for ironing....the wife's ironing, I don't go there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted November 7, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2013 I'm a bit confused by this statement. I thought that hard water meant that it had an above average amount of minerals in it. If that's true, boiling will make some of the H2O evaporate away, but the minerals don't, so whatever is left in the pot would be even harder than when you started! How does boiling help? I am very confused by it, the only way to remove the minerals is to boil the water and distil the steam. Hence the reason you can buy teabags for hard water areas........the limescale attracted to your element is a small part of whats in the water. Anyhoo we digress......... Probably the reason for your problem the other day Brian sounds temperature/humidity related, so bloomin' annoying! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Here is the Thumper in good old BR Blue at last. Now to varnish it and start cutting up some windows. Also a couple of pictures of the Heljan class 37 conversion to a centre headcode and the Heljan forthcoming class 40 conversion to a split headcode. Could not resist a picture with the other Heljan "nose job" in the shot! Also a JLTRT class 33/1 with the Easy-Build MkI Inspection Saloon. 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 It looks like someone has tided his layout, nice pictures Brian how is the 66 coming on? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted November 13, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2013 Brian, Now thats what I call a stabling shot........lovely! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) Wow Brian! Have you been converting your layout from USA to UK outline? Can I come a play trains?! All hyper realistic and inspirational. ATVB CME Edited November 13, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Brian, I've been following your thread for an age, and recently have been using your JLTRT Clayton build as a reference for my build about to start soon. Really good stuff here so thanks for the inspiration. What glue do you use for putting everything together – do you use the glue recommended by JLTRT, and which types; Hot, Rapid, Max, etc? What glue do you use for windows? Cheers, Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now