MrWolf Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, Winslow Boy said: Just a minor point to make about sleepers. They are more effective if sunk into the ground end on. This method does require more sleepers but it is prototypical and is still used today particularly for deep excavations. That's what I was thinking, a lot had a wrought iron strap or a piece of old bridge rail bolted across near the top to tie everything together. 4 hours ago, chuffinghell said: Disclaimer: Chuffinghell hasn’t got a clue what he’s doing so be careful Me neither, maybe we should join an internet forum where the odds are that there's someone who knows what they're on about.... 3 hours ago, Andy WD said: I can vouch that a brand new Swann Morton No.11 will go through a shoe and your foot! I have the scar to prove it Outstanding, soldier! Your Purple Heart is in the post! 3 hours ago, chuffinghell said: I’m wondering if I should start wearing my works steel toe cap shoes at home because I’m always dropping things Infinitely safer than the shoes that go with your leopardskin coat I'd say.... 2 hours ago, Compound2632 said: Console yourself with the reflection that that drawing was made from a standard specification for new works (probably issued in the 1950s but, I think, broadly similar to ones going back to the beginning of the century). Many older works did not conform. Thanks, the clearances on the centre section of the river bridge are pretty tight, because I used the dimensions dictated by the occupation bridges I used to create either end. I wanted it to look like a partial rebuild of a timber bridge similar to the old river Severn bridge at Melverley on the PS&NWR. My original bridge was supposedly built around 1870 and rebuilt in brick and iron in 1901. 6 hours ago, Winslow Boy said: Can't remember but have you said what your going to do for a backscene? I've cheated a bit, I'm going to use photographic backscenes, the Hills and dales version from ID backscenes. Given my artistic style, I suspect that anything I paint myself may look a little bit strange. Edited January 3, 2022 by MrWolf 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Gough Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Railway Modeller have included a couple of free photo backscenes with the January issue: They total about five feet in length. They would be okay for Cholsey & Moulsford. The only problem is I would need another another ten or so to do the whole layout! 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 They're remarkably similar to what I have in stock. I need to get around to making some boards to support them. I'm thinking foam board for light weight. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 I would be interested in how you go about mounting them as its something that I've never done. Is it like wall paper or do they need tensioning in someway say like a canvas on a frame. I've seen some of Mr P's and they are very good but I know he paints his. Ian 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted January 3, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2022 I used double sided tape to mount some from ID Backscenes and that worked reasonably well. Far better to have two pairs of hands available though to get the joints right. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Wouldn't something like spray mount be better or doesn't it hold it. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 IIRC ID recommend using tape. Whatever you do it's really a two man job to attach. Are we still allowed to say that? There's no guarantee that the solvent in whatever spray mount you choose won't bleed through and attack the ink. If the printed backscenes are too busy looking, I'll paint one. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 The part of the job that I'm not sure about is the corners. Do I perform a little more landscape hacking to install curved corners, or ignore the corners in the sky? The backscene needs to be dismantlable at the corners so as usual there will be complications. I don't want to be building some giant scenery / lighting rig / proscenium arch to make it work. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 I'd go for curves, if at all possible. Right angles just don't look... ... right! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 4, 2022 Author Share Posted January 4, 2022 The problem is how to support the curve and make the corner detachable. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy WD Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 30 minutes ago, MrWolf said: The problem is how to support the curve and make the corner detachable. I recall seeing somewhere, possibly on here, that you could use slotted MDF to form the curve and use a rigid sub-frame to keep it in shape 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2022 2 hours ago, MrWolf said: The part of the job that I'm not sure about is the corners. Do I perform a little more landscape hacking to install curved corners, or ignore the corners in the sky? The backscene needs to be dismantlable at the corners so as usual there will be complications. I don't want to be building some giant scenery / lighting rig / proscenium arch to make it work. Curves. They don't have to be large radius. Something like a slice of 50mm diameter plastic pipe would be enough. 1 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 I used 2mm cork sheet, but plastic tube sounds like a better solution if it needs to be movable. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 8 hours ago, MrWolf said: The problem is how to support the curve and make the corner detachable. Sorry Rob, I'm going to show how thick/inexperienced - take your pick, but why does it need to be detachable at the corner? Apologies again for asking the dumb question. I promise not to make a habit of it. Crosses fingers behind back so that no one can see he's being 'economic with the truth' 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Gough Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 Railway Modeller recommend fixing their free backscenes to thin plywood or MDF using wallpaper paste. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2022 I use 3mm hardboard to support the backscene, and the hardboard is glued to vertical battens at intervals which bolt to the baseboard. My backscenes are painted on cartridge paper, somewhat heavier, I suspect, than the paper the RM is using. They are just clipped at intervals to the hardboard support. Probably a thinner paper would need a reinforcing paper layer behind it before it was clipped. Doing it like this allows me to have a backscene which can be changed, rather like a theatre. At the corners the hardboard is curved to around a 4” radius. You can curve the hardboard if you give it a prolonged soak in water first. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tortuga Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 On 02/01/2022 at 22:01, chuffinghell said: I’m wondering if I should start wearing my works steel toe cap shoes at home because I’m always dropping things Dropped objects can inevitably tell when you’re wearing steel toe caps and will adjust their trajectory mid fall to land immediately behind the toe cap on the upper surface of your foot. 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 14 hours ago, MrWolf said: The problem is how to support the curve and make the corner detachable. I've been pondering how to arrange the backscenes for 'Callow Lane'. I am going to investigate whether it is possible to get the backscene laminated, with a matt finish, so that it can be (a) easily removable and (b) relatively easily curved at the corners, without needing any additional support. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 One of those places that will print your photos onto canvas should be able to do something to that sort of spec, I'd imagine. But the problem might be the max length that they could print (and also quite possibly the price...) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 When I was at DCC Concepts in Settle the other week I saw that their diorama of Ribblehead Viaduct had a vinyl-type backscene. I'm going to enquire where it came from as I want a new one. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David C Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 The main problem with backscenes which are removeable and have curves at the corners is how to transport them to and from exhibitions - or even move house. Printing on canvas could well crack, which would look worse than a right angle or two in sky and be very expensive. David C 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2022 The backscene for Black Country Blues was over 35ft long, it was printed on a type of vinyl. @AY Mod would have the details. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winslow Boy Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 Going to throw my two penny worth in here, so feel free to shoot me down, but wouldn't it be possible to get something printed onto a banner type sign? The type you see on park railings, above shops or at exhibitions. It wouldn't have to be waterproof so hopefully the cost wouldn't be exorbitant. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 4, 2022 Author Share Posted January 4, 2022 9 hours ago, Winslow Boy said: Sorry Rob, I'm going to show how thick/inexperienced - take your pick, but why does it need to be detachable at the corner? Apologies again for asking the dumb question. I promise not to make a habit of it. Crosses fingers behind back so that no one can see he's being 'economic with the truth' The layout is semi portable. I have no intention of exhibiting it, but I don't like the idea of having to demolish it should we move house. Where we are now is only rented and we may move depending whether or not the memsahib finds work locally once she's fully qualified. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted January 4, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2022 3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: I've been pondering how to arrange the backscenes for 'Callow Lane'. I am going to investigate whether it is possible to get the backscene laminated, with a matt finish, so that it can be (a) easily removable and (b) relatively easily curved at the corners, without needing any additional support. Trying to visualise that CK, following on Callow so will see it there no doubt. I couldn’t think of a way without support. My offering below Backscene just sits in a slot between scenery and support frame. Though the support frame has a dual purpose to support hidden track bed. Good work Rob BTW. 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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