Colin parks Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Colin, Although the prototype is of little significance to me, ( 'though I do remember looking for numbers on cab fronts when in Southern climes in the '60's,(AND underlining them in my combine), I am drawn to this thread to see just what can be achieved with the basic materials you use! If this sounds patronising or sycophantic, I apologise, it certainly is not meant to be, I am just amazed by the standard of your work, it really is Modelling with a capital "M" ! cheers, Peter C. Thanks for your comments Peter C. I just hope the Tin Hal model inspires others to have go. Regards, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Colin Yet another master class in plasticard butchering to reproduce another EMU from me youff, as ever excellent stuff. Cheers SS Thanks SS, Butchering, bodging -it's all the same to me! I will certainly be butchering one of my 2 Bulleid HAPs for its motor bogie. Er, what on earth does 'sungum' mean?! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thanks renovater 1. The above is not said to excuse bad workmanship. Any dips will have to go! As you say, some paint will show up any faults and at least I don't have to worry about the areas above the doors! Regards, Colin BAD WORKMANSHIP ??????????......Are you sure ? You're skills are superb.....I'm not sure whether you inspire me or persuade me to give up and put my pathetic efforts back in the box ! Do you do commissions as my attempt at "converting" some Airfix B set coaches into a set of (admittedly over length ) diagram E147's is not going particularly well ? LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 13, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thanks SS, Er, what on earth does 'sungum' mean?! Colin Search Me. Just Googled Sungum and got this http://saiva-sithantha-sungum.org/home.html Don't know if it helps SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucky Duck Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Exquisite modelling Colin… once again you've provided proof that brass is not 'the only way'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 BAD WORKMANSHIP ??????????......Are you sure ? You're skills are superb.....I'm not sure whether you inspire me or persuade me to give up and put my pathetic efforts back in the box ! Do you do commissions as my attempt at "converting" some Airfix B set coaches into a set of (admittedly over length ) diagram E147's is not going particularly well ? LOL Hi Lofty, Don't give up! Many years ago I started a 2 BIL and did abandon the project. Perhaps it is just a question of practice and persistence. Get yourself a copy of David Jenkinson's 'Carriage Building Made Easy'. It is aimed at 7mm modelling, but the general advice on marking out and tools holds good. I wouldn't attempt commisions - that is for the professionals! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Search Me. Just Googled Sungum and got this http://saiva-sithantha-sungum.org/home.html Hi SS, I now realise that these strange words come up instead of emoticons! Colin Don't know if it helps SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Exquisite modelling Colin… once again you've provided proof that brass is not 'the only way'. Well thanks Mucky Duck! It is more a case of not being experienced in modelling with brass, plus the fact that you can't just sit in a cosy corner and cut brass coach sides on a table top. Plastic is a very forgiving material and it is easy to rectify mistakes (of which there are many in any one project). All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 The bodies are almost complete, with only some retaining clips to fit - plus all the corrections. The various handles will be removed before painting. The conduit on the cab below the route indicator has been corrected. Stupidly, it had been assumed that the face-on picture of a 4 SUB I had found would serve as a reference. Little did I know the first production 4 SUBs had a slightly different shaped conduit. It can be seen that the emergency brake pipe (on the l/h in this picture) inner end is not horizontal. It looks awful. Though the error is less than 0.5mm, the camera picks these things out with heartless cruelty. Bending up the handles on the MU boxes drove me nuts. They are fashioned with pliers from .009" guitar string. The front steps on the cab could be subject to revision. They have to fit snugly on top of the buffers and it is a bit risky to have added these before making the chassis. The roof detail is not quite as clear as hoped, but it was done using pictures of dasatcopthorne's Tin HAL model and reference to the Mike King plans. The cab fronts are trimmed to size and the ends have been fitted to the gutters. The list of tiny bits to make seemed endless, but it's done now. Given the opportunity, the bodyshells will be ready for a tentative coat of paint to see what the 'dreaded' joints look like. Must make and fit the air horns first - forgot to put that job on the list. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 The conduit on the cab below the route indicator has been corrected. Stupidly, it had been assumed that the face-on picture of a 4 SUB I had found would serve as a reference. Little did I know the first production 4 SUBs had a slightly different shaped conduit. Oh yes of course, we ALL noticed that glaring error ! The front looks superb and your effort with the handles was more than worth it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Hello Colin, it's not my era, scale or region. But some fantastic modelling. For the doors and small compartment windows did you think about making a two piece stamp? A bit of work would be involved but it could help speed up cutting out all of them windows and it should make sure that all of them are the same (I'm not saying that there not). It could also be used on any future builds that have the same type of door or compartment window openings. OzzyO. PS. if you'd like a rough sketch of what I mean let me know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Oh yes of course, we ALL noticed that glaring error ! The front looks superb and your effort with the handles was more than worth it. Thanks for your comments Southernman46. There are at least two people who would have picked up on the error. (They know who they are!) Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Hello Colin, it's not my era, scale or region. But some fantastic modelling. For the doors and small compartment windows did you think about making a two piece stamp? A bit of work would be involved but it could help speed up cutting out all of them windows and it should make sure that all of them are the same (I'm not saying that there not). It could also be used on any future builds that have the same type of door or compartment window openings. OzzyO. PS. if you'd like a rough sketch of what I mean let me know. Hi OzzyO, Thanks for your offer advice re. punches. My dad did once make me a window punch for Bulleid windows for N gauge models (which were never made and the punch is sadly lost). I believe that NN Kits/Phoenix use a window punch for their 2 EPB and forthcoming 4 SUB. I have thought about punches and especially as the thinner 10 thou. plasticard is now being used. The funny thing is, I quite enjoy the window cutting process and although a little ragged here and there, it has become much easier with a magnifying lamp. The way I cut a window aperture is to work slightly inside the markings and work outwards. Things have become much simpler too as I now cut the verticals and horizontals then cut the radiused corners with a knife - so much easier than cutting diagonally across the corners and shaping with a round file. I have used punches before and they are very good for stamping out shapes, but great care is needed in punching out holes for windows as is mentioned on the Phoenix Precision website. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Work on the chassis has begun. Most of the work will be a repeat of previous models and not of much interest. However, there are one or two improvements: The first improvement is the use of Hornby buffers kindly given to me by fellow RMweb member 43179. They are very nice buffers which have come off Hornby Brighton Belle coaches and needed no modification before fitting. More detailing in the form of rivets etc. has been added to the headstocks, including the body retaining brackets. The front steps over the buffers turned out not to need re-fitting, but the r/h one on the DTC is slightly wrong and will have to be re-made. (I think the headstocks are too wide and need a careful trim.) The second improvement is that the solebars are fitted with black 20 thou. Plastikard footboards. I have got bored with re-touching the worn paint on the footboards of other models which had been made of white plastic. Another trick, taken from David Jenkinson's book, was to add a strip of 10 thou. plastic on the face of the solebar below the level of the footboard, thus providing a small ledge to locate the footboard. So much easier to fit the boards and it really doesn't show that the lower solebar is thicker. On looking at this picture, those brass grab-handles still look too much like bent bits of brass wire - will have to see to them. A shot of the DTC coach with a glimpse of the conduits. Still no air horns, too busy to make them yet. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted November 16, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2012 .... wow that's lovely... it's going to look super on Newhaven when it's finished, I can't wait Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Hi Colin, The HAL is looking really good, I do like the Belle buffers. I have used the footboard trick on my 2Bil which still awaits completion, it does save a lot of work. Looking forward to seeing some paint on. Once again excellent work. Cheers for now, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maxthemapman Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I've always loved that style of front. OK, it is just a coach end with some windows punched in it, and a load of pipework, but somehow it looks very elegant. On the other hand, I've always really liked the 312s that used to run my may, so maybe I'm just warped. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Hi Colin, The HAL is looking really good, I do like the Belle buffers. I have used the footboard trick on my 2Bil which still awaits completion, it does save a lot of work. Looking forward to seeing some paint on. Once again excellent work. Cheers for now, Ian Hi Colin, The HAL is looking really good, I do like the Belle buffers. I have used the footboard trick on my 2Bil which still awaits completion, it does save a lot of work. Looking forward to seeing some paint on. Once again excellent work. Cheers for now, Ian Hi Ian, Yes, the Hornby buffers are a very good addition to our list of spares (as I presume they will become available as such). I have made the foot boards from a sheet of plasticard with transverse 10thou. strips of white plastic sheet to represent the footboard support brackets. As for paint, the livery will be blue (no lining!) with full yellow ends. I have to spary a coat of grey to see what is going on with the bodies first though. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 .... wow that's lovely... it's going to look super on Newhaven when it's finished, I can't wait Thanks Griff, I must admit to finding a few 'irregularities' on my sides this week. The irony is that there are some dips where holes were drilled in the supporting 20 thou. layer to aid venting of the solvent. It is not a huge problem, but something that will have to be attended to. It's only visible when the light is cast across the sides at a veryflat angle, but it would definitely show when the paint went on. Of course, the test piece of bodywork did not have venting holes and is still perfectly smooth - perhaps I was just too cautious. So the next set of sides will either have no holes or I might go up to 15 thou. sheet for the outer body layer (the one with the windows) and sand them down a bit after assembly. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 I've always loved that style of front. OK, it is just a coach end with some windows punched in it, and a load of pipework, but somehow it looks very elegant. On the other hand, I've always really liked the 312s that used to run my may, so maybe I'm just warped. Hi Max, Yes this cab front does have a certain character which other EMUs do not. Perhaps it is the large windows and flat, faceted panelling all the way up to the roof which gives a tin HAL/4 SUB that look. Whichever way, being such a plain surface, positioning the cab front windows/detailing has to be spot on or it loses the 'look'. Even the one piece of pipework bent incorrectly made the front appear wrong. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptic Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Hi Colin. As always, you've captured that front end 'look', to perfection. Nothing 'warped' about that, or 'maxthemapman', for that matter. Out of interest, who produces those torpedo vents ?. They appear to be brass (lost-wax ?) castings. I've used the ABS product, in the past, but these look to be crisper. Cheers, Frank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Hi Colin. As always, you've captured that front end 'look', to perfection. Nothing 'warped' about that, or 'maxthemapman', for that matter. Out of interest, who produces those torpedo vents ?. They appear to be brass (lost-wax ?) castings. I've used the ABS product, in the past, but these look to be crisper. Cheers, Frank. Hi Frank, Re. capturing looks, it has been with much assistance from you and dasatcopthorne. As for the roof ventilators, they are indeed lost wax brass castings and come from Branchlines. I always use these vents for the earlier period EMU models. The locating holes are slightly counter-sunk to get them sitting snugly on the roof(s). I should change my 2 BIL's incorrect round version of these vents for the oval pattern too - one day! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Agreeing with all the praise that has gone before, all I can really add is a one-word description of my thoughts on Colin's work: WOW! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 It does, indeed, look just 'right'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted November 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2012 Thanks Griff, I must admit to finding a few 'irregularities' on my sides this week. The irony is that there are some dips where holes were drilled in the supporting 20 thou. layer to aid venting of the solvent. It is not a huge problem, but something that will have to be attended to. It's only visible when the light is cast across the sides at a veryflat angle, but it would definitely show when the paint went on. Of course, the test piece of bodywork did not have venting holes and is still perfectly smooth - perhaps I was just too cautious. So the next set of sides will either have no holes or I might go up to 15 thou. sheet for the outer body layer (the one with the windows) and sand them down a bit after assembly. All the best, Colin That's ironic... however the body looks pretty smooth to me. Fingers crossed that it will stay that way, I'm sure it will. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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