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  • RMweb Gold

Yes, you've reminded me, on the 'to do' list is the gear planner. It's not too urgent as the profiles are the same within 0.5mm but I still need to get onto it at some point. One day, I'll get around to flywheels!...

 

Whoops sorry, given you more work ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Technical Bulletin:

 

Anyone who’s bought a gearbox over the last 18 months will almost certainly have a new, modified version (Unless it was a SlimLiner or MicroMiser, which are unchanged).

A 23 tooth ‘hybrid’ gear (brass centre, nylon teeth) is now used at the axle and this allows a grubscrew fixing throughout the full range of boxes.

 

Previously, the Loctite fixing required on the axle gears was the most requested change for the gearboxes and, for many, a major influence in their choice of box. This new gear required a re-design of the boxes (although the range is basically the same) and this included re-working the boxes, tightening up tolerances and taking care of sideplay within the units to make a more precise job. The 23 tooth (instead of 20) means the old ratio’s have increased by 12%, so 40:1 becomes 45:1, 54:1 is now 60:1 etc.

 

The instructions have all been redone in a more user-friendly format. Anyone needing info can, on request via e-mail, view any of the instructions in PDF form.

Just checking ... but does this apply to the LoRider motor bogie as well?

 

Regards

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Just checking ... but does this apply to the LoRider motor bogie as well?

 

Regards

For the time being, the LoRiders are the same as ever. I'm hanging on until I can decide on which motor to use for bogies as an alternative to the 1420 which will eventually become unavailable. When this happens I'll need to redesign the bogies.

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  • RMweb Gold

Apologies if this has already been asked Chris, but, is the grub screw fitting cog a direct replacement for the old style in your previous gearbox kits, or does a full new kit need to be purchased?

If the latter, does anybody want some old style gearbox kits, that will teach me not prevaricate until a better option comes along!

 

MIke.

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Apologies if this has already been asked Chris, but, is the grub screw fitting cog a direct replacement for the old style in your previous gearbox kits, or does a full new kit need to be purchased?

If the latter, does anybody want some old style gearbox kits, that will teach me not prevaricate until a better option comes along!

 

MIke.

Unfortnately the new gear as an extra 3 teeth on it so the centre distance  is 0.6mm more.

 

Just for the record, High Level have pretty much single-handedly made fine-scale locomotive building achievable for us mere mortals - thanks Chris !

I appreciate that comment very much and I do like to think the kits give builders a fighting chance of success.

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  • RMweb Gold

Just for the record, High Level have pretty much single-handedly made fine-scale locomotive building achievable for us mere mortals - thanks Chris ! 

 

I agree

I appreciate that comment very much and I do like to think the kits give builders a fighting chance of success.

 

 

The praise is well deserved Chris, you've a really good product, well thought out and a pleasure to use.

 

Those 2 1420's turned up by the way  ;)

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  • 1 month later...

J50 CHASSIS

 

I’m designing a chassis to go under the Hornby J50 at the request of some P4 modellers. The brief is CSB suspension and removable wheelsets (in other words the springs) and the rest as per the usual High Level spec.

 

Because this kit is aimed at a much narrower market (two P4 modellers up to now!!!) it can designed with specific features in mind from the word go. Hornblock cut-outs, for example, can be ready done, saving a fair bit of work. Beams and compensation gubbins can be left out, as can the springs which are normally etched as part of the sideframes.

 

Up to now, I’ve drawn P4 parts only. I’ve ruled out the OO market altogether as the RTR model (so I’m told) runs fine and so can see no reason why anyone using 16.5 would want a chassis, but I’d be interested to know the views of EM modellers. Would you prefer to re-wheel the existing chassis, or build a new fully-spring one from a kit?...

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How about designing a gearbox for 7 mm scale, the same quality as your 4 mm scale ones please. Urgently required

I appreciate you asking Hayfield, I did dip my toe in the water, but decided against it in the end.

 

Probably the best part of 10 years ago now, I touted an all brass bevel-driven box around the shows 4mm shows, trying to canvass opinion from the few 7mm modellers I bumped into, and some of whom were on 7mm layouts. It had milled sideframes, hand-cut cluster gears and was like the inside of a clock - it knocked spots off anything we'd seen. The 7mm people I showed it to couldn't have been more disinterested; the response was very disappointing. They seemed happy with a single worm and gear and pointed out how much cheaper this was and was more than good enough. I never got as far as going to any 7mm shows and maybe if I had they would've been more enthusiastic, but I ended up forgetting about 7mm altogether.

 

The man who used to cut the final drive gears for the 4mm stuff designed this box at the request of Pete Waterman who, when it was finished, said he was buying from ABC instead. Another prototype was loaned out to someone and we never got that back.

Edited by High Level Kits
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I appreciate you asking Hayfield, I did dip my toe in the water, but decided against it in the end.

 

Probably the best part of 10 years ago now, I touted an all brass bevel-driven box around the shows 4mm shows, trying to canvass opinion from the few 7mm modellers I bumped into, and some of whom were on 7mm layouts. It had milled sideframes, hand-cut cluster gears and was like the inside of a clock - it knocked spots off anything we'd seen. The 7mm people I showed it to couldn't have been more disinterested; the response was very disappointing. They seemed happy with a single worm and gear and pointed out how much cheaper this was and was more than good enough. I never got as far as going to any 7mm shows and maybe if I had they would've been more enthusiastic, but I ended up forgetting about 7mm altogether.

 

The man who used to cut the final drive gears for the 4mm stuff designed this box at the request of Pete Waterman who, when it was finished, said he was buying from ABC instead. Another prototype was loaned out to someone and we never got that back.

 

 

I was thinking of a simple etched fold up one similar to your 4 mm ones, nothing spectacular just something that works as designed

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....Probably the best part of 10 years ago now, I touted an all brass bevel-driven box around the shows 4mm shows,....

Hey, hang on! I never got to see this! Didn't even know you'd tried making a bevel box. If you'd consider one for 4mm scale, I'd be beating a path to your stand!!

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Would you be willing to try CSB, if it was all sorted with anchors pre-drilled and all you had to do was put it together?...

 

Yes, I think I would. If it was a "comprehensive" kit. All sorted and good instructions.

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Yes, I think I would. If it was a "comprehensive" kit. All sorted and good instructions.

Having recently built my first high level gear box, I’d say Chris’ instructions are best in class. Despite best efforts of the builder, it went together smoothly!

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  • RMweb Gold

For the time being, the LoRiders are the same as ever. I'm hanging on until I can decide on which motor to use for bogies as an alternative to the 1420 which will eventually become unavailable. When this happens I'll need to redesign the bogies.

Chris

 

When you do re-design them, is there any chance of adding an 8'9" variant for EMUs since these didn't use 8'6" bogies (the other bogies were 8' except for a tiny minority that had 9' bogies)? An 8'9" bogie would also work for Class 73 locos. In the meantime, at least 0.5mm offset from wheels to axle box isn't too noticeable (unless you model in P4 presumably!)

 

Andy

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Chris

 

When you do re-design them, is there any chance of adding an 8'9" variant for EMUs since these didn't use 8'6" bogies (the other bogies were 8' except for a tiny minority that had 9' bogies)? An 8'9" bogie would also work for Class 73 locos. In the meantime, at least 0.5mm offset from wheels to axle box isn't too noticeable (unless you model in P4 presumably!)

 

Andy

I'm going to revisit the motor bogies when I've decided on a range of motors to replace the Mashimas. I'll see how the land lies then - a lot depends on what RTR is available and what that runs like. It;s not like the old days, when it all ran like a bag of hammers.

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  • RMweb Gold

I'm going to revisit the motor bogies when I've decided on a range of motors to replace the Mashimas. I'll see how the land lies then - a lot depends on what RTR is available and what that runs like. It;s not like the old days, when it all ran like a bag of hammers.

 

Hmmm, possibilities and hope for the Judith Edge clayton then?

 

Mike.

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