Heljan GWR 1366 0-6-0 Pannier Tank

[luke_stevens]

Mine does exactly this as well! Mine will be going back straight after Christmas with a 'please test the new one before sending it to me' note

Sounds like there is a bad batch but most are ok. Which livery? I had BR black late emblem.

 

Luke

[locoholic]

Just tested my BR early crest one, and it runs nicely and looks very good.

[Martin_R]

My 1368 arrived yesterday, checked it out and found no visual defects other than those protruding buffer heads and it ran OK. When I checked the back to backs and pickups I noticed that the wheels / axles were rather tight in the chassis so released the keeper plate screws slightly and the running qualities improved quite a bit, very quiet and smooth. I will give it a better running in session after Christmas and fix those awful buffer heads. I tried Bachmann short NEM couplings and the height seems about right compared with my homemade coupling height gauge. 

 

Sadly looks like typical Heljan lucky dip quality yet again with just some of us getting a good one but the big question is how long will even the 'good' ones last? 

[GWR8700]

My 1368 arrived yesterday, checked it out and found no visual defects other than those protruding buffer heads and it ran OK. When I checked the back to backs and pickups I noticed that the wheels / axles were rather tight in the chassis so released the keeper plate screws slightly and the running qualities improved quite a bit, very quiet and smooth. I will give it a better running in session after Christmas and fix those awful buffer heads. I tried Bachmann short NEM couplings and the height seems about right compared with my homemade coupling height gauge. 

 

Sadly looks like typical Heljan lucky dip quality yet again with just some of us getting a good one but the big question is how long will even the 'good' ones last? 

 

I've noticed mine usually needs a push before going, then it moves just fine but if it doesn't get a push then it's usually stopped still.  Do you reckon this is related to the wheels being too tight in the chassis like with yours?  Don't really want to send it back if possible.

Edited December 25, 2016 by GWR8700

[Stevelewis]

I've noticed mine usually needs a push before going, then it moves just fine but if it doesn't get a push then it's usually stopped still.  Do you reckon this is related to the wheels being too tight in the chassis like with yours?  Don't really want to send it back if possible.

 

You  are   paying good  money  for   something  which should work  correctly  straight  from  the  box,  OK  you  may  want  to  correct  the  fault  yourself  BUT really  you  should  return  it to  the  original  supplier  and  even  if  you  request  a  replacement  they  should  refund  your   out  of  pocket  expenses.

If  it  was  from  Hattons  then  request  a  'Collect  Plus  returns  label'  which  they  will  eMail to  you to enable  you to  drop  the parcel  of at  a collect  plus shop. Which will cost   you  nothing

 

Only  by returning  faulty  items  will these  manufacturers  realise  there  are problems  and hopefully  get them  sorted  out  BEFORE  they  release  new  items on to the  market

[GWR8700]

You  are   paying good  money  for   something  which should work  correctly  straight  from  the  box,  OK  you  may  want  to  correct  the  fault  yourself  BUT really  you  should  return  it to  the  original  supplier  and  even  if  you  request  a  replacement  they  should  refund  your   out  of  pocket  expenses.

If  it  was  from  Hattons  then  request  a  'Collect  Plus  returns  label'  which  they  will  eMail to  you to enable  you to  drop  the parcel  of at  a collect  plus shop. Which will cost   you  nothing

 

Only  by returning  faulty  items  will these  manufacturers  realise  there  are problems  and hopefully  get them  sorted  out  BEFORE  they  release  new  items on to the  market

 

Thanks, I did use Hatton's, I didn't know you could use that method for returns.  I was wondering if maybe it would be better after some running in but it hasn't really improved, still requires a bit of a push before moving and can sometimes stop dead at low speed which is a marked contrast to my 14XX which ran like a dream straight out the box.

Edited December 25, 2016 by GWR8700

[Martin_R]

Thanks, I did use Hatton's, I didn't know you could use that method for returns. I was wondering if maybe it would be better after some running in but it hasn't really improved, still requires a bit of a push before moving and can sometimes stop dead at low speed which is a marked contrast to my 14XX which ran like a dream straight out the box.

Edited December 25, 2016 by Martin_R

[Martin_R]

 

Thanks, I did use Hatton's, I didn't know you could use that method for returns. I was wondering if maybe it would be better after some running in but it hasn't really improved, still requires a bit of a push before moving and can sometimes stop dead at low speed which is a marked contrast to my 14XX which ran like a dream straight out the box.

 

That does not sound good, I hope it is not another case of 'Heljan Dying Motor' syndrome, Get it back to Hattons, don't risk it burnng the motor out although I think the motor may already be on the way out.....

[Stevelewis]

Thanks, I did use Hatton's, I didn't know you could use that method for returns.  I was wondering if maybe it would be better after some running in but it hasn't really improved, still requires a bit of a push before moving and can sometimes stop dead at low speed which is a marked contrast to my 14XX which ran like a dream straight out the box.

 

Yes  just  ask  them  if  you telephone  ( or  talk on  their on line  chat line) if  they  can  send  a Collect+ label,  I have  dealt  with  Hattons  since  the  late  60s!!!!!,  and  found  them to be  excellent  in  handling  returns  due to  faulty  items, 

 

Sad  to  say  though  that   these  days  they  seem  more  frequent  than  in   the  past years,  not  had  any  Heljan  ones the  majority  have  come  from another  well known company,

[GWR8700]

That does not sound good, I hope it is not another case of 'Heljan Dying Motor' syndrome, Get it back to Hattons, don't risk it burnng the motor out although I think the motor may already be on the way out.....

 

Oh dear, that doesn't sound good.  Will give them a ring tomorrow and get a working replacement sorted hopefully.  Thank you for your help.

Yes  just  ask  them  if  you telephone  ( or  talk on  their on line  chat line) if  they  can  send  a Collect+ label,  I have  dealt  with  Hattons  since  the  late  60s!!!!!,  and  found  them to be  excellent  in  handling  returns  due to  faulty  items, 

 

Sad  to  say  though  that   these  days  they  seem  more  frequent  than  in   the  past years,  not  had  any  Heljan  ones the  majority  have  come  from another  well known company,

 

Thanks, I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see if they can email me one of those.  Glad to hear that they are good with returns, they'd always been very helpful when I went to their old shop on Smithdown.

[Butler Henderson]

I've noticed mine usually needs a push before going, then it moves just fine but if it doesn't get a push then it's usually stopped still.  Do you reckon this is related to the wheels being too tight in the chassis like with yours?  Don't really want to send it back if possible.

Have you tried loosening the base plate slightly?- I have know overtight base plates to be a problem on other models - the Hornby motor driven 4F was the last one I experienced where the base plate (my own doing) was overtight causing it to struggle to start to run. An overtight base plate is providing friction that the mechanism has not got the torque to overcome without assistance.

[BrushVeteran]

I would insist that your supplier test runs your locomotive if you have any doubts. That way you save hassle and they should save money on returns postage. If they know what they are looking for it only takes about five minutes.

[jjb1970]

Shops used to run models as a matter of course but now it seems much less common, especially if buying by mail order. I think a combination of pretty good reliability, buyer preference to have untouched models and shops increasingly operating a warehouse style pick and send model have the practice of shop testing decline. Hereford Models still test locomotives before sending them out.

[Ian Hargrave]

Shops used to run models as a matter of course but now it seems much less common, especially if buying by mail order. I think a combination of pretty good reliability, buyer preference to have untouched models and shops increasingly operating a warehouse style pick and send model have the practice of shop testing decline. Hereford Models still test locomotives before sending them out.[/quote

 

As does Derails

[Butler Henderson]

I blame Dapol and Hornby for the decline in shops testing locos; Dapol for the stupid grease they applied to the N 14xx which meant it needed to be dissolved before the loco would run otherwise the motor would burn out, and Hornby for that stupid boxing arrangement with the loco having brackets screwed to the underneath.

 

On the other hand how well do those shops that test actually test - my Wickham trolley tested by Hereford ran okay but one of the connecting wires from the pick ups on the trailer to the pcb under the trolley was hanging loose. Most locos, unless seriously wrong, will run up and down a straight length  of track, but to test one properly it needs to go through reverse curves and through pointwork / diamond crossings to clearly show up any faults. My Bachmann SDJR 7F was okay on the straight but once it hit a curve became very hesitant and I found out that nearly all the pick ups needed adjusting.

Edited December 26, 2016 by Butler Henderson

[sp1]

I blame Dapol and Hornby for the decline in shops testing locos; Dapol for the stupid grease they applied to the N 14xx which meant it needed to be dissolved before the loco would run otherwise the motor would burn out, and Hornby for that stupid boxing arrangement with the loco having brackets screwed to the underneath.

 

On the other hand how well do those shops that test actually test - my Wickham trolley tested by Hereford ran okay but one of the connecting wires from the pick ups on the trailer to the pcb under the trolley was hanging loose. Most locos, unless seriously wrong, will run up and down a straight length of track, but to test one properly it needs to go through reverse curves and through pointwork / diamond crossings to clearly show up any faults. My Bachmann SDJR 7F was okay on the straight but once it hit a curve became very hesitant and I found out that nearly all the pick ups needed adjusting.

Given the price of this model I would expect it to run back and forth on straight track (if that's all that Hereford Models do) ? But at least you have the knowledge that it does run. Ok, it may not creep along very slowly, but at least you have the knowledge that it does run......

[The Stationmaster]

Alton Model Centre run locos round a circuit of track to test them so you can see how they behave on curves before you buy - one advantage of shopping (relatively) locally.

[GWR8700]

Have you tried loosening the base plate slightly?- I have know overtight base plates to be a problem on other models - the Hornby motor driven 4F was the last one I experienced where the base plate (my own doing) was overtight causing it to struggle to start to run. An overtight base plate is providing friction that the mechanism has not got the torque to overcome without assistance.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a go.  My only worry is if that will affect the warranty so I'll ring Hattons before trying that just in case. Still, it sounds like that could be the issue as it runs fine at normal speed, just needs a push to start.

 

I would insist that your supplier test runs your locomotive if you have any doubts. That way you save hassle and they should save money on returns postage. If they know what they are looking for it only takes about five minutes.

 

Good idea, I will if I need a replacement.  Will save them time and money too.

[MikeParkin65]

Likewise Monkbar Model Shop (York). 

[Ian Hargrave]

Alton Model Centre run locos round a circuit of track to test them so you can see how they behave on curves before you buy - one advantage of shopping (relatively) locally.

That is an important point.One distinct advantage of a purchase at the Warley Show is the multi -gauge test track facility in the form of a large "roundy". Any malfunction will show up there. Incidentally,I do believe Derails offer the same,witness my purchase back in July of a Hornby Adams Radial.

 

I am a firm believer of a reasonable working test of any loco before sending despite the protestations of impracticabilty that are sometimes heard.A few minutes care and patience can save a pile of unnecessary grief for both purchaser and retailer.

[GWR8700]

I loosened the screws a tad, added a bit more oil and it's running really well now.  Thanks guys

[luke_stevens]

I loosened the screws a tad, added a bit more oil and it's running really well now.  Thanks guys

Good luck!

 

I wonder if we should all be doing that before we test run them? Maybe my my test running cause the motor / worm / gear to come out of mesh and if I'd loosened and oiled it first it wouldn't have gone wrong in the first place?

 

Couple of questions 1) which livery do have? and 2) have you tried hauling anything?

 

Luke

[GWR8700]

Good luck!

 

I wonder if we should all be doing that before we test run them? Maybe my my test running cause the motor / worm / gear to come out of mesh and if I'd loosened and oiled it first it wouldn't have gone wrong in the first place?

 

Couple of questions 1) which livery do have? and 2) have you tried hauling anything?

 

Luke

 

Hi, I'd try test running it first without loosening the screws but I'd definitely put a bit of oil on it as it was very tight.  I have the shirtbutton livery and I've had it pulling a short train of about 5 wagons so far, I need to test it with some coaches properly soon.

[luke_stevens]

Hi, I'd try test running it first without loosening the screws but I'd definitely put a bit of oil on it as it was very tight.  I have the shirtbutton livery and I've had it pulling a short train of about 5 wagons so far, I need to test it with some coaches properly soon.

It's good that yours can hall. Mine was reluctant to move itself! Lets see what the replacement is like.

 

:Luke

[gooderz]

odd question here

Has anyone stripped their loco down to the last screw as i will fit mine with sound but can seem to find a way to strip it apart to get the weight out of the tanks to mill a slot out of it to put the sound chip in it as a miro loksound wont fit in the bunker or cab without being visually obtrusive.