GWR8700 Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) After using my model more and more I've become quite impressed with it. I think Heljan could have better quality control but when it works, it works really well. Edited January 17, 2017 by GWR8700 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2017 I collected my loco, 1368, from Exeter Model Railway shop yesterday. I've finally had time to build a small loop on a cleaned floor and test her out. Dave tested her in the shop, but I'm so impressed with the smooth running and lack of mechanical noise. I'm very impressed. Kind regards, Nick 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi Has anyone removed the side plates yet? I'm wanting to renumber 1368'to 1369 as the latter had an extended vacation in the West Midlands in the early '60s. Any tips on removal much appreciated! Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi Has anyone removed the side plates yet? I'm wanting to renumber 1368'to 1369 as the latter had an extended vacation in the West Midlands in the early '60s. Any tips on removal much appreciated! Thanks David I would be interested to see this too. Kind regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Are the numberplates fixed mouldings or separately fitted items. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2017 Having run the loco in for a couple of hours in different directions and at different speeds, I can report that my 1368 runs beautifully. My only complaint is the chemically blackened wheels. The blackening agent wears off onto the track, causing the loco to stall. This isn't the first time I have experienced this with Heljan locomotives - my Class 33 had similar issues. Careful cleaning of the wheels using a cotton bud and suitable thinner has been performed twice, with the same application being performed to the track. The result is a very sweetly running locomotive, able to crawl along even on DC. An ideal shunting locomotive. Highly recommended. Kind regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Are the numberplates fixed mouldings or separately fitted items. I may be wrong, but one of mine (1368) looks a bit wonky on one side so 'stuck on' maybe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rembrow Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I'm not sure that the tightness in the wheel side to side motion is due to the cover plates. I removed the brake gear plate and then loosened the inner cover plate screws, however they were not over tightened on my 1368 and it didn't make any noticeable difference to the tightness in the axle side to side movement, particularly in the rear axle. I noticed that the front and rear wheelset axles are within a metal tube that is fitted into slots in the chassis, to the width of the chassis. I'm wondering if the tolerance is a bit too close for this sleeve/axle system. Mine has improved with a dab of oil on each side of the axles and then several side to side movements to get the oil into the sleeve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I'm not sure that the tightness in the wheel side to side motion is due to the cover plates. I removed the brake gear plate and then loosened the inner cover plate screws, however they were not over tightened on my 1368 and it didn't make any noticeable difference to the tightness in the axle side to side movement, particularly in the rear axle. I noticed that the front and rear wheelset axles are within a metal tube that is fitted into slots in the chassis, to the width of the chassis. I'm wondering if the tolerance is a bit too close for this sleeve/axle system. Mine has improved with a dab of oil on each side of the axles and then several side to side movements to get the oil into the sleeve. Interesting. Once I'd modified the 1st cover plate I had no problem, but I'll go back and have a look and see if the axles sleeves. It does show that a good model the 1366 almost is! So close to being brilliant let down but a bit of a rush deign job and some dubious quality control. Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Has anyone removed the side plates yet? I'm wanting to renumber 1368'to 1369 as the latter had an extended vacation in the West Midlands in the early '60s. Any tips on removal much appreciated! Thanks David Are the numberplates fixed mouldings or separately fitted items. Moulded on with raised edges and printed numbers (reminiscent of the style used by Mainline range GWR models) removing them using the isoprop & cotton bud would work and the raised edge would stop the fluid running to the body, but you'd need to file down those plate edges afterwards to avoid a etched number plate sitting out too far. Edited January 24, 2017 by adb968008 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Moulded on with raised edges and printed numbers (reminiscent of the style used by Mainline range GWR models) removing them using the isoprop & cotton bud would work and the raised edge would stop the fluid running to the body, but you'd need to file down those plate edges afterwards to avoid a etched number plate sitting out too far. Thanks for the info. Have had an idea which means no need to remove anything in order to renumber them. Just waiting to here back from the manufacturer in question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Thanks for the info. Have had an idea which means no need to remove anything in order to renumber them. Just waiting to here back from the manufacturer in question. I was wondering about contacting Railtec transfers... Same idea? Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I was wondering about contacting Railtec transfers... Same idea? Luke Er yes. I did not want to say so just in case they cannot do it, but thought I ought to hint at something to stop people attacking their model unnecessarily (unless of course they must have proper brass plates) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Er yes. I did not want to say so just in case they cannot do it, but thought I ought to hint at something to stop people attacking their model unnecessarily (unless of course they must have proper brass plates) I'd like brass plates but I'd rather use Railtech than try to chop away the Heljan ones. If it does happen then I'm certainluy up for a set of 1368 plates and smokebox numbers. Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted January 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2017 In 3mm scale there's a Martin Finney etched number plate kit; you paint the inside of the plate black, when dry varnish it, and while still wet you drop the digits you want to use onto the plate, position them, then leave the varnish to set (it acts like glue). I believe there's a similar kit in 4mm; Brassmasters have a pick of one, the only peculiar thing is that the digits seem to be blackened. If you can remove the painted bit of the Heljan number plate, you could use a similar technique. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted February 5, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2017 Not my scale, but couldn't resist one of these. Seriously impressed. Very smooth, very quiet (once I'd remembered to clean the 00 track I'd dug out from somewhere). Can see a possible issue with pickups not touching the wheel if it moves sideways too much, but generally excellent. At some point must take a look to see what sort of mechanism it uses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted February 5, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2017 Not my scale, but couldn't resist one of these. Seriously impressed. Very smooth, very quiet (once I'd remembered to clean the 00 track I'd dug out from somewhere). Can see a possible issue with pickups not touching the wheel if it moves sideways too much, but generally excellent. At some point must take a look to see what sort of mechanism it uses.The loco is very sensitive to dirty track! I've also cleaned the wheels a couple of times on mine, removing the chemical blackening which doesn't help the engines performance. Bar that, mine is beautifully smooth. I'm very impressed. With regard to the pick-ups, I carefully bent them out a bit using a pair of tweezers, which resulted in much better connection to the backs of the wheels. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y0UxKIK0Mro 1368 running on DC after 3 hours, split over two days, of running-in Kind regards, Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 fit a stay alive and that'd help with the pick up issues Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2017 fit a stay alive and that'd help with the pick up issues What's a 'stay alive', please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted February 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2017 The loco is very sensitive to dirty track! I've also cleaned the wheels a couple of times on mine, removing the chemical blackening which doesn't help the engines performance. Bar that, mine is beautifully smooth. I'm very impressed. With regard to the pick-ups, I carefully bent them out a bit using a pair of tweezers, which resulted in much better connection to the backs of the wheels. 1368 running on DC after 3 hours, split over two days, of running-in Kind regards, Nick Either that is very silent or my speakers are bust! Impressive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 What's a 'stay alive', please? Stay alive is a capacitor you fit to a dcc chip and gives it a a bit of power when it loses power from dirty track or point frogs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted February 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2017 An interesting comparison alongside my DJH kit built version painted in Precision green. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2017 I'd be interested in your candid opinion of this Heljan offering,Robin.Just read Richard Foster's review in the current edition of Model Rail He is somewhat critical and pulls no punches,so a second opinion from an alternative reliable source would be gratefully received. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted February 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2017 The Heljan shade of green is better than Hornby but not Bachmann as seen here. Interesting front end as I thought the fronts were black on tanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) I'd be interested in your candid opinion of this Heljan offering,Robin.Just read Richard Foster's review in the current edition of Model Rail He is somewhat critical and pulls no punches,so a second opinion from an alternative reliable source would be gratefully received. I think his comment on appearance was pretty fair - Heljan have chickened out on various detail differences although on the 1366 the result is not as bad as the numerous resultant errors that creates on their 1361 if their own photos are any guide. However one example of 'an engine for all men' comes with those over-emphasised weld seams on the pannier tanks as they varied from engine to engine and were virtually invisible on some of them while more noticeable on others and the arrangement and route of injector overflow pipes were all over the place varying from engine to engine and over the years on the same engine. Edit to add PS - an official view indicates (in so far as a B&W picture can) that the tank fronts were the same colour as the smokebox door Edited February 9, 2017 by The Stationmaster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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