Hattons announce 14xx / 48xx / 58xx

[stephennicholson]

I bought a 48xx  (not quite perfect) from the DJ himself at his warley stand yesterday for £60. In conversation he commented that many issues were caused by the cheap hattons decoder and the bemf setting (should be disabled) Reading this thread on my way, I began to wonder how much of a lottery I had entered.

 

Observations of this model are

- analogue on a rolling road. Smooth but noisy

- Bachmann (zimo) 6 pin decoder fitted, using default settings.

- Ran smoothly and quietly in both directions over peoc settrack.

- occasionally stalls or wheel spin where track less than flat 

 

So fortunately got a workable model, will be even better if I can improve the running where track is not quite flat. (benchmark for me is the B4 which exhibits no issues)

[Torn-on-the-platform]

I know there have been some issues with the first release, but what is the chance of a new run of new versions? BR black 14xx, early emblem, pristine please!

[kandc_au]

I know there have been some issues with the first release, but what is the chance of a new run of new versions? BR black 14xx, early emblem, pristine please!

You would have to ask Hattons as it is THEIR model!

 

Khris

[tomparryharry]

Well, mine was a late release (4871, weathered). It had an hour each way on the rolling road, after being lightly oiled. I'm not on DCC, if that has any bearing on the issue.

 

It runs just fine. Having read other readers on here, I might consider putting a piece of lead in the smokebox, should it be required. But the lead thus far, has remained in the spares box, awaiting the call.

 

Happy weekend everybody,

 

Ian.

 

PS. I've always said that the 48/14xx is quite a small locomotive in real life. If you try overloading the rake with 16 Mk1s, you will be disappointed!

[Black 5 Bear]

Ive ended up cancelling mine that i ordered last night.

 

I know there are some good ones out there, but it would feel like im buying a ticking time bomb.

And that just spoils your enjoyment of a model always wondering if and when it might fail.

 

Ive gone for a Bachmann Coal Tank instead

 

A very wise choice, the Coal tank is a fantastic model.

[cctransuk]

I know there have been some issues with the first release, but what is the chance of a new run of new versions? BR black 14xx, early emblem, pristine please!

 

Really???

 

Buy one - any one; Halford's satin black spray can and apply new numberplates and transfers.

 

Job done.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Tom F]

Really???

 

Buy one - any one; Halford's satin black spray can and apply new numberplates and transfers.

 

Job done.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

My next 58XX from a 14XX as I needed one with a topfeed. Sprayed with Games Workshop’s ‘Chaos Black’.

 

[81C]

My next 58XX from a 14XX as I needed one with a topfeed. Sprayed with Games Workshop’s ‘Chaos Black’.

 

5BB6685F-8F24-4D46-AC11-CE20FE39116B.jpeg

 

I found the Workshop paint has the edge on Halfords stuff it's a finer spray, I've been using for some years now not had a duff one yet.

[Tom F]

I found the Workshop paint has the edge on Halfords stuff it's a finer spray, I've been using for some years now not had a duff one yet.

Chaos Black is the first I’ve used and I have to say, I really like it! It’s seems to really bring out the rivet detail.

Edited November 25, 2018 by 9793

[Barry Ten]

I like Chaos Black as well, it seems to have good adhesion to brass so good for coach underframes and so on, and dries quickly.

[mozzer models]

My next 58XX from a 14XX as I needed one with a topfeed. Sprayed with Games Workshop’s ‘Chaos Black’.

 

5BB6685F-8F24-4D46-AC11-CE20FE39116B.jpeg

 

 

I found the Workshop paint has the edge on Halfords stuff it's a finer spray, I've been using for some years now not had a duff one yet.

 

 

Chaos Black is the first I’ve used and I have to say, I really like it! It’s seems to really bring out the rivet detail.

 

 

I like Chaos Black as well, it seems to have good adhesion to brass so good for coach underframes and so on, and dries quickly.

Games Workshop has changed the name of chaos black To Abaddon Black

[Captain Kernow]

Halford's satin black spray can and apply new numberplates and transfers.

 

I've always used Halfords Matt Black aerosols, as I find that they give you a nice, semi-matt, 'virtually satin' finish, which is then great for applying transfers and weathering.

 

I'd use their Satin Black if I wanted a 'scale' gloss finish.

 

 

Chaos Black is the first I’ve used and I have to say, I really like it! It’s seems to really bring out the rivet detail.

 

I am, however, going to have to give the Games Workshop product a try as well.

[chuffinghell]

If you want a Matt 'Matt Black'

 

Halfrauds do an 'Ultra Matt Black' in their Camouflage range, no sheen at all and is definitely Matt

 

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-camouflage-spray-paint-black-300ml

[CovDriver]

Well I've finally given in an bought one of the hattons 14xx the heavy weathered BR versions.

I also opted for a hattons 6pin decoder at the same time and to be honest im seriously considering sending it straight back as the running quality well if you can call it that is absolutely shocking.

It moved about a scale 6ft and stopped then it did the same intermittently along the length of the layout in both directions.

I first of all I changed the decoder for a gaugemaster 6pin decoder and the running slightly improved but not much.

But worst of all the sound from the gears within the chassis is horrid it sounds rough and noisy.

 

Does anybody have any remedies to fix these problems as it's such a shame as for me the detail is half decent and the weathering is how I'd like it.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Tom F]

Well I've finally given in an bought one of the hattons 14xx the heavy weathered BR versions.

I also opted for a hattons 6pin decoder at the same time and to be honest im seriously considering sending it straight back as the running quality well if you can call it that is absolutely shocking.

It moved about a scale 6ft and stopped then it did the same intermittently along the length of the layout in both directions.

I first of all I changed the decoder for a gaugemaster 6pin decoder and the running slightly improved but not much.

But worst of all the sound from the gears within the chassis is horrid it sounds rough and noisy.

 

Does anybody have any remedies to fix these problems as it's such a shame as for me the detail is half decent and the weathering is how I'd like it.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

 

I'm afraid Colin, it sounds like you got a poor one. I'd send it back (and retain the Gaugemaster decoder.....do not use a Hattons one).

 

There are some decent ones, I had to go through four to get a good one. I recently received another one from a client which will be renumbered, detailed and weathered. It runs smooth straight from the box!!

 

As I say, there are some good ones, but in many cases you have to go through some poor examples first.

[mikesndbs]

Well I've finally given in an bought one of the hattons 14xx the heavy weathered BR versions.

I also opted for a hattons 6pin decoder at the same time and to be honest im seriously considering sending it straight back as the running quality well if you can call it that is absolutely shocking.

It moved about a scale 6ft and stopped then it did the same intermittently along the length of the layout in both directions.

I first of all I changed the decoder for a gaugemaster 6pin decoder and the running slightly improved but not much.

But worst of all the sound from the gears within the chassis is horrid it sounds rough and noisy.

 

Does anybody have any remedies to fix these problems as it's such a shame as for me the detail is half decent and the weathering is how I'd like it.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

 

 

Hi Colin, any help here? 

[boxbrownie]

Just send it back for another one, they ain’t all bad......I got a good one.

[Harlequin]

Hi Colin,

 

I've got one that ran very roughly at first and I improved things by tweaking the PWM settings in the decoder (although it still sounds s bit rough).

 

See: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92852-hattons-announce-14xx-48xx-58xx/page-102&do=findComment&comment=3359370

 

These models seem to have multiple overlapping problems and manufacturing variability so it may or may not help but it's an easy change so may be worth a try.

[Pannier Tank]

Hi Colin, any help here? 

 

Look at the droop in the Coupling Rod at 00:05 !!

[PMP]

Hi Colin, any help here? https://youtu.be/sn2Mf5OiJss

You mentioned oiling the side of all the gears, yet you’ve not mentioned disassembly and splitting the chassis to do it.

[CovDriver]

Hi Colin,

 

I've got one that ran very roughly at first and I improved things by tweaking the PWM settings in the decoder (although it still sounds s bit rough).

 

See: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92852-hattons-announce-14xx-48xx-58xx/page-102&do=findComment&comment=3359370

 

These models seem to have multiple overlapping problems and manufacturing variability so it may or may not help but it's an easy change so may be worth a try.

Many thanks for your advice I've tried the settings for the gaugemaster chip and its like a completely different loco it runs a dream now especially at slow speed. Although still a little noisy but once I've applied some lube to the gears that'll make it run better still.

 

Many thanks again

 

Colin

[No Decorum]

I’m not in the market for one of these. I have an old Hornby one and I don’t want the grief associated with this one. i took an interest in the Hornby rival but ruled that out when I discovered that the chassis had been tinkered with in a design clever manner. However, by all accounts the Hatton’s body is decent. If Hatton’s Dave were to get to work on it and produce a chassis with the qualities of the P and Barclay, with the body easily removable, it would be a different matter. A squirt of nicer paint would help too.

 

Sadly from my point of view, Hatton’s is unlikely to try again, having had to flog off the remainder of the stock cheap.

 

Colin, thank you for that comment about the Gaugemaster decoder. I might try one in one of my Austerities.

[johnarcher]

Can anyone who has seen (or bought) both please tell me how much better the DJ body is compared with the current Hornby one (is that the same as the old Hornby/Airfix)?

I'm sure it's better detailed, but a bit or vastly better?
I'm not interested in the chassis, that would be replaced anyway, but it sounds a lot more hassle to get an etched chassis into the DJ one than the others, does the body make it worthwhile?

Edited December 9, 2018 by johnarcher

[Covkid]

Though at the end of the day...it falls on Dave Jones. He is the one that accepts are rejects the factory's product, as HE is their customer!

 

Khris

 

 

I hate playing the blame game but I wonder who is at fault here.

Is it Hattons for accepting the stock?

DJM for the design - maybe limited by Hattons' requirements?

Or just a bad factory?

 

It's a puzzle but makes me worry about mine, which seems to be a good runner out fo the box but I'm almost afraid to run it now!

 

 

I bought a 48xx  (not quite perfect) from the DJ himself at his warley stand yesterday for £60. In conversation he commented that many issues were caused by the cheap hattons decoder and the bemf setting (should be disabled) Reading this thread on my way, I began to wonder how much of a lottery I had entered.

 

Observations of this model are

- analogue on a rolling road. Smooth but noisy

- Bachmann (zimo) 6 pin decoder fitted, using default settings.

- Ran smoothly and quietly in both directions over peoc settrack.

- occasionally stalls or wheel spin where track less than flat 

 

So fortunately got a workable model, will be even better if I can improve the running where track is not quite flat. (benchmark for me is the B4 which exhibits no issues)

 

It seems from my perspective that Hattons and Dave Jones set up a contract where Dave had the 14xx / 48xx produced in a Chinese factory from a design created by ??? The models were produced, shipped to Hattons and retailed.  a proportion of them have been returned to Hattons allegedly faulty whilst others presumably from the shelves have replaced them.

 

Meanwhile Dave Jones is selling a few off his stand at below Hattons sale price and considerably below Hattons RRP.

Is Dave Jones selling his as NQP I wonder ? 

 

It is thanks to this forum that people can make choices on how to spend their modelling budget, and I am grateful to Andy York and the correspondents for that. I don't particularly want a 14xx, but if I did I would seriously have to decide whether to persevere like "9793" did and find the fourth attempt that works, or else go the Captain Kernow route and have a high quality chassis under it.  

[Captain Kernow]

Can anyone who has seen (or bought) both please tell me how much better the DJ body is compared with the current Hornby one (is that the same as the old Hornby/Airfix)?

I'm sure it's better detailed, but a bit or vastly better?

I'm not interested in the chassis, that would be replaced anyway, but it sounds a lot more hassle to get an etched chassis into the DJ one than the others, does the body make it worthwhile?

Hi John,

 

All I can say is that the Hattons/DJM body is significantly better than the old Airfix/current Hornby one, sufficiently so to make all the grief and hassle that I've experienced worthwhile.

 

Check the area around the smokebox door, in particular.

Edited December 10, 2018 by Captain Kernow