Mikemeg's Workbench - Building locos of the North Eastern & LNER

[micklner]

3 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Hi Mick et al,

 

I agree that some DJH kits can be difficult and to make them "presentable" a fair amount of fettling and brass additions need to be added to the build. I have been very happy with my A2/3 kit result, however like my Proscale V2 build, these kits were designed a long time ago and have been surpassed by later kit standards. I have also built a London Road Models K2/2 in Scottish Region cab version. This is a superb kit of great quality but needs a lot of work to complete.

 

Meanwhile, my DJH Urie S15 needs completion with lots of additions I admit.

 

Brake gear needs some adjustment!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

DJH

A2/3 only problem horrid gap in the frames above the Bogie Wheels I made a plastic insert to hide the gap.

Raven A2 Cab roof never fitted properly too wide , poor detail parts, some were  nothing like the protype.

D20 , Tender simply awful replaced with a Alexander version. No Brake gear, poor cab detail and detail castings

C7 .   Tender again replaced . Cylinders totally wrong, rest of parts as on the D20.

 

 

[mikemeg]

I'm not quite sure why this discussion around the virtues (or not) of white metal kits should have taken place on this thread, which has never covered the building of any white metal kit by the thread author (me), but as it has then I'll add my 'two pennorth'. I should add that I do welcome this discussion, even if I haven't prompted it!

 

My own experience of white metal kits is two Little Engines offerings, from which I used some of the boiler castings - chimney & dome - and then scratch built the models, chopping up the rest  of the white metal parts for ballasting the scratch built models, and a DJH B16/1 from which I used absolutely nothing and chopped it all up, including the chimney and dome, to be used as adhesive weight in etched brass/nickel silver models.

 

The acquisition and subsequent disposal of this B16/1 'kit' led to my offering to test build and complete the development of the LRM B16/1 etched kit. So three white metal kits in all, each of which was fairly abysmal as a scale model, for all sorts of reasons.

 

While I can understand people who have accumulated these kits, over the years, seeking to make use of them, I do find it difficult to understand why folk would now choose a white metal offering when an etched kit, for the same prototype, is available.

 

And, I guess, that's the extent of my 'two pennorth' .

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 27, 2021 by mikemeg

[micklner]

On 22/12/2021 at 15:16, mikemeg said:

 

Mick,

 

Re your intention to build a B16, will this be a B16/1 and, if so, which kit might you use?

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Mike

 

This "kicked it off" !!

 

I have seen far more diversions on some threads !!

 

cheers

 

Mick

[mikemeg]

23 hours ago, mikemeg said:

I should add that I do welcome this discussion, even if I haven't prompted it!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

Mick,

 

There are much wider and many more diversions on this thread and I welcome them. Merely trotting out photos and descriptions of model loco building will just make it b----y boring!

 

One proviso though; don't mention the current Ashes series after this mention. It's just too distressing!!

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

 

 

Edited December 28, 2021 by mikemeg

[Chas Levin]

Speaking as a far less experienced modeller than you two gents, I have to say that I find working in different materials quite enjoyable - brass, WM, plastic - though there's no denying that brass gives results unattainable in some other materials, WM certainly. For quick and dirty building it's fun though!

 

Also delighted to note that you welcome diversions Mike, which I think many people are happy to see on their threads (I certainly am) as it's often fun just to chat and it's nice to feel welcome, but by no means everyone feels that way: I got a bit of shock a while back on another mainly bench-based thread, where talk had moved temporarily to other things and the participating posters were ticked off by the person who's thread it was.

 

I realise some people use these threads as a means of promoting their work and that's an important and valuable function, but it's nice to think there is also time and space for other things too!

[mikemeg]

Chas,

 

Many thanks for the posting above. I'm happy for folk to use this thread to show their work, for my original purpose, in starting this thread, was to show some of my own work and, where appropriate, give some ideas as to how some of the work was actually done.

 

As I've remarked, a few times in the thread, I have been and am fortunate to benefit from Mick Nicholson's growing photographic collection and many of these are worthy of further display and discussion. These photos are a record of a time and a world which has passed, yet a world which many of us seek to reproduce in miniature with our models.

 

I've posted photos of aircraft and aircraft models, some of my paintings, and photographs from Mick's collection as well as the locomotive models and if folk enjoy the eclectic nature of the thread and post their own particular favourites, on or off topic, then it all adds to the thread.

 

May I wish all, who do read the thread, a very happy, prosperous and, above all, safe New Year.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by mikemeg

[Nick Lawson]

5 hours ago, mikemeg said:

May I wish all, who do read the thread, a very happy, prosperous and, above all, safe New Year.

 

And the same to you sir! Thanks for all the enjoyment you have provided this year Mike.

[18131r]

On 03/02/2016 at 18:16, mikemeg said:

NORTH EASTERN KITS LNER D20

 

At this point I decided to turn the attention to the chassis. The thinking here was that any attention necessary to the footplate, as a result of checking against the chassis, would be easier to achieve without the boiler being fitted.

 

This kit, as per the prototype, does not have cut outs for the bogie wheels at the front of the mainframes, but relies on the mainframe spacing being pinched in at the front, from a position level with the rear of the rearmost bogie wheel. For P4 this chassis should traverse a minimum radius of around 3' 6" without the bogie wheels fouling which, as my minimum radius is five and a half feet, is more than adequate.

 

First job was to add the rows of bolts to the front of each mainframe, using pieces of .5 mm wire soldered in from the rear of the frame. These were then dressed off on the front of the frames with a fine file, using a 20 thou spacer to achieve consistency of the protrusion of these bolts.

 

The coupling rods were then assembled and used to set up the chassis jig. High Level axleguides and axleboxes have been fitted - normal on the rear wheelset and spacesavers on the front set to facilitate the gearbox fitting between the axleboxes. Both compensating beams have been fitted and checked for free movement.

 

The front bogie, which is fully equalised, has also been assembled and wheeled. I've used Gibson 3' 11" bogie wheels - the prototype had 4' 0" bogie wheels - which will just fit below the footplate without touching the footplate. For EM and OO it may be necessary to use a slightly smaller diameter bogie wheel due to the deeper flanges on those wheels.

 

This kit, as with all of Arthur's kits, contains three separate sets of mainframe spacers - P4, EM and OO. So having used the P4 spacers, on this build, could I adapt the EM spacers to update the original D20 test chassis, built back in 2011 and which didn't have the cylinder block rear and motion plate on the etch?

 

I cut out the two EM spacers which form the rear of the cylinder block and the motion plate. These spacers are around .75 - 1.0 mm narrower than their P4 equivalents, so I sawed them both, vertically in two, using a very fine piercing saw, and then inserted a strip of .018" nickel silver .75 mm wide, after which these spacers were then soldered back together. These 'reworked' spacers were then fitted into the first of these D20 chassis'.

 

So now a photograph to ensure that all looks ok before proceeding.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Hello Mike

 

A bit late but All the Best Wishes for the New Year to you and all your readers.

 

I am in the process of building one of Arthurs D20 kits , looking at the photo of your chassis did you buid in and sideways movement control for the bogie or does it just pivot on the fixing screw?

In general do you allways ream out the High Level Hornblocks, the ones I have are very tight on the 1/8th axles. I haven't needed to do this with MJT or Gibson hornblocks.

Thanks

Richard

 

Richard

[mikemeg]

Richard,

 

On both of the D20's, built from Arthur's kits, I didn't fit any sideways movement control. That said, the bogie pivots using the slot provided in the kit, which will allow some sideways movement of the bogie on its pivot.  I actually fitted a 1/4" diameter x .010" nickel silver washer to the bottom of the front chassis spacer which fits over the pivot screw and bears onto the top of the bogie stretcher. This to spread the friction between the bogie top and the underside of the chassis and also to keep the bogie level, as it deflects on curves.

 

The absence of bogie wheel cut outs, in the mainframes, even with the narrowing of the mainframe separation at the front end, does constrain the amount of sideways movement which can be accommodated, before the bogie wheels touch the mainframes, so I was quite careful how much sideways movement I allowed with the slotted pivot.

 

On High Level Horn Blocks, both standard width and space saver, I have often had to gently file the axle box to allow free sliding within the horn guides. For 1/8th axles, which I always use (usually Alan Gibson), then I have had to run the 1/8th inch reamer around in every axle box I have fitted until the axle revolves quite freely. As my 1/8th inch reamer is slightly tapered, then this has to be done from both sides of the axle box.

 

I would add that this needs to be done very gently and slowly; usually three or four slow rotations of the reamer will suffice, checking the axle fit as this operation is done.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by mikemeg

[18131r]

1 hour ago, mikemeg said:

Richard,

 

On both of the D20's, built from Arthur's kits, I didn't fit any sideways movement control. That said, the bogie pivots using the slot provided in the kit, which will allow some sideways movement of the bogie on its pivot.  I actually fitted a 1/4" diameter x .010" nickel silver washer to the bottom of the front chassis spacer which fits over the pivot screw and bears onto the top of the bogie stretcher. This to spread the friction between the bogie top and the underside of the chassis and also to keep the bogie level, as it deflects on curves.

 

The absence of bogie wheel cut outs, in the mainframes, even with the narrowing of the mainframe separation at the front end, does constrain the amount of sideways movement which can be accommodated, before the bogie wheels touch the mainframes, so I was quite careful how much sideways movement I allowed with the slotted pivot.

 

On High Level Horn Blocks, both standard width and space saver, I have often had to gently file the axle box to allow free sliding within the horn guides. For 1/8th axles, which I always use (usually Alan Gibson), then I have had to run the 1/8th inch reamer around in every axle box I have fitted until the axle revolves quite freely. As my 1/8th inch reamer is tapered, then this has to be done from both side of the axle box.

 

I would add that this needs to be done very gently and slowly; usually three or four slow rotations of the reamer will suffice, checking the axle fit as this operation is done.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Mike

 

Thank you for the reply.

 

I will use your idea of fitting the washer, it makes good sense.

I have just ordered  1/8th and 2mm reamers as I have also found that the 2mm High Level hornblocks for the tender will not accept the 2mm axles.

 

How is the j21 build coming on?

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[mikemeg]

On 04/01/2022 at 15:07, 18131r said:

Mike

 

Thank you for the reply.

 

How is the j21 build coming on?

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

Richard,

 

The J21 is now advancing, with the chassis under construction. I'll post some photos once I have the necessary horn guides and blocks from High Level Models.

 

While I wait for those parts, perhaps time for another one or two of those black and white and colour photos. No self respecting devotee of the LNER and BR (E), (NE) and (Scottish) Regions would surely deny that one of the high points of LNER locomotive design was Gresley's A4 class. So, a couple of photos of these locos from the 1950's/early 60's. Again, these photos courtesy of Mick Nicholson.

 

They were and those that survive, still are, iconic. Beautiful machines!!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg

[18131r]

18 hours ago, mikemeg said:

 

Richard,

 

The J21 is now advancing, with the chassis under construction. I'll post some photos once I have the necessary horn guides and blocks from High Level Models.

 

While I wait for those parts, perhaps time for another one or two of those black and white and colour photos. No self respecting devotee of the LNER and BR (NE) Region would surely deny that one of the high points of LNER locomotive design was Gresley's A4 class. So, a couple of photos of these locos from the 1950's/early 60's. Again, these photos courtesy of Mick Nicholson.

 

They were and those that survive, still are, iconic. Beautiful machines!!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Mike

 

Great pictures, power and grace combined.

 

Looking forward to the rest of the j21 build

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[mikemeg]

On 05/01/2022 at 10:19, 18131r said:

Mike

 

Great pictures, power and grace combined.

 

Looking forward to the rest of the j21 build

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

Richard,

 

The J21 is also in need of a gearbox, again from High Level Models, which has been ordered along with a gearbox for the N8. This build has also been a little stalled awaiting horn guides and axle boxes from High Level. The supply problems which High Level experienced, last year, now seem to have been resolved so both the J21 and the N8 should be progressed as soon as this order arrives.

 

On motors, I am still using up the stock of Mashima's which I bought some time ago, when I learned of their intention to stop manufacture of these motors. The J21 will have a 1220 with a High Level Roadrunner Compact (60 : 1 ratio); the N8 will have a Mashima 1420 with High Level Roadrunner Compact (60 : 1).

 

In the meantime I have done more work on the superstructure of the N8, adding some details to the model which are not in the kit - overhead cab locker on bunker bulkhead, coal door and slides, etc. I've also used some of Arthur's castings and small etchings on this model - Ross pop safety valves, tank fillers, smokebox door, tank handrail brackets, rear lamp iron, footstep rivetted fillets, etc. Arthur often provides 'spares' for very small parts on his etches, which I cut out and save for use on other models.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg

[18131r]

5 hours ago, mikemeg said:

 

Richard,

 

The J21 is also in need of a gearbox, again from High Level Models, which has been ordered along with a gearbox for the N8. This build has also been a little stalled awaiting horn guides and axle boxes from High Level. The supply problems which High Level experienced, last year, now seem to have been resolved so both the J21 and the N8 should be progressed as soon as this order arrives.

 

On motors, I am still using up the stock of Mashima's which I bought some time ago, when I learned of their intention to stop manufacture of these motors. The J21 will have a 1220 with a High Level Roadrunner Compact (60 : 1 ratio); the N8 will have a Mashima 1224 with High Level Roadrunner Compact (60 : 1).

 

In the meantime I have done more work on the superstructure of the N8, adding some details to the model which are not in the kit - overhead cab locker on bunker bulkhead, coal door and slides, etc. I've also used some of Arthur's castings and small etchings on this model - Ross pop safety valves, tank fillers, smokebox door, tank handrail brackets, rear lamp iron, footstep rivetted fillets, etc. Arthur often provides 'spares' for very small parts on his etches, which I cut out and save for use on other models.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Mike

 

Great work.

The model does change character when the chimney and dome are added.

Are you using the LRM radial truck under the N8.

Please if you can remember was it the HighLevel Roadrunner Compact that you used in the D20 what was the ratio?

I am building my D20 to EM gauge with a compensated chassis I have thinned the front hornblock and have just about enough room for the Roadrunner compact, it is a choice of either that or the Slimliner+.

 

Cheers

Richard

 

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by 18131r
to add something

[mikemeg]

Hi Richard,

 

In answer to your questions :-

 

Yes, I will be using the LRM radial truck under the N8. I have reworked the mainframes on this kit, as I really didn't like (and didn't need) the entire rear section to be articulated. So each mainframe now extends from one buffer beam to the other, with the rear portion - from the cab footsteps rearwards - 'pinched in' by around .030" (0.75 mm) on each side, to allow additional sideways deflection on the carrying axle.

 

As described above, there are many other changes/additions to this kit mostly to take advantage of better castings and etchings introduced since this kit was originally developed.

 

This N8 model is very much a 'background project' in between the test builds of the F8 and J21, hence the relatively slow progress.

 

On both of the D20's which I built, I used the front set of driving wheels to mount the gearbox, with the motor facing to the rear. The motor I used was the Mashima 1420 which, with the rear shaft cropped off, would allow the motor not to interfere with the backhead fitting.

 

I used the same three stage High Level gearboxes, on both models. These were chosen so that the motor would sit higher and could therefore be mounted horizontally and so that it would sit above the mainframes. There is a lot of room in the firebox/boiler and the large splashers do effectively hide the gearbox/motor so the limiting factor is the length from the front driving axle to the backhead. I would have preferred to use the Mashima 1424, which would have provided more power, but with the 54 : 1 gearing there is enough tractive effort to haul a reasonably sized train.

 

By the time of my models - mid 1950 - the D20's were long since relegated to secondary passenger services, often with only four or five bogie coaches, so the models handle those loads relatively easily. During the summers of the early/mid 1950's, these locos were also often used to pilot larger locomotives on heavy excursion trains, especially to the Yorkshire seaside resorts. I even have a few photos of these locos on pick up goods, during their British Railways days!

 

I still have all of the photos taken during the two D20 builds, so if these can be of any further help, just ask. The oil pots, on the slide bars, are not in the kit; these were made by me and added, as were the crossheads and connecting rods. The bolts on the chassis, between the two sets of bogie wheels, are pieces of 0.5 mm wire soldered into drilled holes and then trimmed off to the same height.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Regards

 

MIke

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg

[18131r]

2 hours ago, mikemeg said:

Hi Richard,

 

In answer to your questions :-

 

Yes, I will be using the LRM radial truck under the N8. I have reworked the mainframes on this kit, as I really didn't like (and didn't need) the entire rear section to be articulated. So each mainframe now extends from one buffer beam to the other, with the rear portion - from the cab footsteps  rearwards - 'pinched in' by around .030" (0.75 mm) on each side, to allow additional sideways deflection on the carrying axle.

 

As described above, there are many other changes/additions to this kit mostly to take advantage of better castings and etchings introduced since this kit was originally developed.

 

This N8 model is very much a 'background project' in between the test builds of the F8 and J21, hence the relatively slow progress.

 

On both of the D20's which I built, I used the front set of driving wheels to mount the gearbox, with the motor facing to the rear. The motor I used was the Mashima 1420 which, with the rear shaft cropped off, would allow the motor not to interfere with the backhead fitting.

 

I used the same three stage High Level gearboxes, on both models. These were chosen so that the motor would sit higher and could therefore be mounted horizontally and so that it would sit above the mainframes. There is a lot of room in the firebox/boiler and the large splashers do effectively hide the gearbox/motor so the limiting factor is the length from the front driving axle to the backhead. I would have preferred to use the Mashima 1424, which would have provided more power, but with the 54 : 1 gearing there is enough tractive effort to haul a reasonably sized train.

 

By the time of my models - mid 1950 - the D20's were long since relegated to secondary passenger services, often with only four or five bogie coaches, so the models handle those loads relatively easily. I even have a few photos of these locos on pick up goods, during their British Railways days!

 

I still have all of the photos taken during the two D20 builds, so if these can be of any further help, just ask. The oil pots, on the slide bars, are not in the kit; these were made by me and added, as were the crossheads and connecting rods. The bolts on the chassis, between the two sets of bogie wheels, are pieces of 0.5 mm wire soldered into drilled holes and then trimmed off to the same height.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Regards

 

MIke

 

Mike

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions and for your kind offer for help in the future, it is very much appreciated.

My 1/8th reamer arrived this morning now I will get the D20 chassis finished before starting the bodywork.

Thank you once again

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[mikemeg]

20 hours ago, 18131r said:

Mike

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions and for your kind offer for help in the future, it is very much appreciated.

My 1/8th reamer arrived this morning now I will get the D20 chassis finished before starting the bodywork.

Thank you once again

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

Richard,

 

You're welcome.

 

I'll try and locate a photo of the pick up arrangements on these two models. Basically, I built two plasticard platforms, one either side, projecting between the tops of the driving wheels and over the tops of the mainframes. The pick ups, located at the top of the driving wheels (and thus hidden from view) were attached to brass strips, which were superglued to these plasticard platforms.

 

This solution isn't ideal, as it relies on only two wheels each side, so I still need to arrange a pick up to the front (or ideally both) sets of bogie wheels to get a better reliability on electrical pick up. Either that or some form of tender pick up to achieve the required distribution of pick ups!!

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Edited January 7, 2022 by mikemeg

[Pebbles]

At one of the last expo-EMs one of the demonstrators was showing an Arthur's D20 chassis modified for split axle pickup on all axles. Split axle current collection have always cause issues, and this has set me wondering. The very old plastic Gibson horn boxes were always problematical  because of the robustness of their bonding to metal. In some ways this was not helped by the flange having a rather small contact area, better design and better adhesives could solve this. Bogie and tender wheels could simply run in bearing quality push fit nylon bushes. I fully realise that  K's tried this with motor bearings, but things have moved on and a high revving motor is a different kettle of fish to an axle.  I will now duck!

[18131r]

22 hours ago, mikemeg said:

 

Richard,

 

You're welcome.

 

I'll try and locate a photo of the pick up arrangements on these two models. Basically, I built two plasticard platforms, one either side, projecting between the tops of the driving wheels and over the tops of the mainframes. The pick ups, located at the top of the driving wheels (and thus hidden from view) were attached to brass strips, which were superglued to these plasticard platforms.

 

This solution isn't ideal, as it relies on only two wheels each side, so I still need to arrange a pick up to the front (or ideally both) sets of bogie wheels to get a better reliability on electrical pick up. Either that or some form of tender pick up to achieve the required distribution of pick ups!!

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Mike

Hope you are able to find the photos of your pickup arrangement.

 

Having just finished assembling the bogie for my D20 I could not see any possibility of fitting pickups to it, I have already given up on that idea, the tender looks to be the candidate to me.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

[Riverside]

Mike,

Firstly - thank you so much for your very helpful accounts of NER loco kit builds. I've found your detailed guidance notes very helpful in building Arthur's kits - so far I've completed a W class 4-6-2 T, a Tennant 2-4-0 and a D20 constantly referring to your accounts.

 

Richard,

For what it's worth I also built my D20/R class in EM gauge and I did find the clearances on the bogie wheels very tight. My layout has some curves under 4ft radius and on those the wheels shorted against the frames which as you know are like the prototype in having no cut-outs. My solution was to use tiny strips of black insulation tape stuck to the frames behind the wheels - hardly visible and it worked. I use a High Level Roadrunner gearbox which is what Arthur recommends and it fitted OK but during the build I noticed Mike's builds seem to have a taller (Loadhauler?) gearbox as the motor can then sit horizontal.... or perhaps this is just due to the greater clearance in P4? Sorry I don't have any better photos of the chassis and the loco has now gone to the painter.

I use Gibson sprung pick ups wherever I can as I've found them to be reliable once set up carefully to allow free movement. I also fitted tender pick ups on the D20 which gave it a vey reliable power source.

 

Regards,

 

David

[18131r]

25 minutes ago, Riverside said:

Mike,

Firstly - thank you so much for your very helpful accounts of NER loco kit builds. I've found your detailed guidance notes very helpful in building Arthur's kits - so far I've completed a W class 4-6-2 T, a Tennant 2-4-0 and a D20 constantly referring to your accounts.

 

Richard,

For what it's worth I also built my D20/R class in EM gauge and I did find the clearances on the bogie wheels very tight. My layout has some curves under 4ft radius and on those the wheels shorted against the frames which as you know are like the prototype in having no cut-outs. My solution was to use tiny strips of black insulation tape stuck to the frames behind the wheels - hardly visible and it worked. I use a High Level Roadrunner gearbox which is what Arthur recommends and it fitted OK but during the build I noticed Mike's builds seem to have a taller (Loadhauler?) gearbox as the motor can then sit horizontal.... or perhaps this is just due to the greater clearance in P4? Sorry I don't have any better photos of the chassis and the loco has now gone to the painter.

I use Gibson sprung pick ups wherever I can as I've found them to be reliable once set up carefully to allow free movement. I also fitted tender pick ups on the D20 which gave it a vey reliable power source.

 

Regards,

 

David

David

Thank you for the information regarding the bogie, I think the simple solutions are always the best.

i have always used wire pickups, never had the courage to use plunger types

I think I will be using the High Level Roadrunner+, I checked the profile against the chassis it would appear to fit

Your workmanship is excellent IMHO

I just hope I can get near to yours and Mikes standard.

Cheers

Richard

 

 

[Riverside]

Richard,

I avoided Gibson plunger pick ups for years as I'd heard they acted like brakes. Then a member of the club I joined said there were no such problems. I find they work vey well provided you ensure the plunger is a smooth fit in the body (I also smooth and polish the ends) and you use very fine wire to connect them to a PCB block. Getting them as close to the centre line of the driving wheels as possible is also important and don't overdo the slight twist to the rod that keeps them in place.

The High Level Roadrunner+ should work for the D20. The standard Roadrunner which I used did sit at and angle unlike Mike's builds where the motor is horizontal. I'd be interested to hear which gearbox he used.

Thanks for the kind words on my D20 build. I enjoy building Arthur's kits - there is a familiarity in the construction once you've built a couple.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[mikemeg]

NORTH EASTERN KITS LNER J21

 

After a very short wait (delivered within a few days) from High Level Models, I now have the requisite items to push on with the J21 and the N8. So having fitted the High Level horn guides and axle boxes to the J21 mainframes and then assembling and fitting the mainframe driving wheel springs, the two mainframes are located onto the chassis jig, with one of the coupling rods fitted as a check to ensure that everything lines up on wheel spacing.

 

All seems ok so the assembly of the chassis can now proceed. The chassis jig has just had a good 'clean up' to try and remove the effects of seven or eight years of being 'attacked' by soldering flux and other corrosive fluids!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg

[mikemeg]

LONDON ROAD MODELS LNER N8

 

The heavily modified chassis for the N8 is now approaching completion. The one piece mainframes, with the rear section pinched in by .030" (0.75mm) can be seen. The brake hangar brackets have been attached as have the front and rear guard irons.

 

The  cylinder rear plate and the motion plate have come from Arthur's J21 kit and are the EM components (the J21 test build is to P4 gauge so these components were spare) modified to fit inside this chassis. I still have to fit slide bars and some semblance of the inside motion for this model, which will be done before the chassis is finally wheeled and powered. Next stage is to apply a coat of weathered black to the chassis with some weathering of the mainframes, inside and out.

 

This model will be fitted with the later compensated centrally mounted brake pull rod, again using unused parts from Arthur's J21 kit as the J21 build will utilise the outside pull rods. Fortunate, indeed, that the wheelbase and spacing of the N8 are identical to the J21, allowing unused parts from the J21 kit to be used on this model.

 

The slides on the High Level axle guides were coated with olive oil, prior to priming  this chassis, which prevents the whole lot from gluing up solid, so that everything still slides easily on the compensated chassis. The CSB tabs, on the centre axle are simply there as retainers to stop the compensating beam ends from sliding off the much narrower spacesaver axle boxes, which were used on the centre driving axle, where the gearbox will be fitted.

 

Now to get back to the J21 as I now have the gearbox.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg

[mikemeg]

NORTH EASTERN KITS LNER J21

 

And the j21 chassis is now progressing along with the N8 chassis. Next stage on this one is to fit the compensating beams and pivot and the 'furniture' to the mainframes - brake hangar brackets, guard irons, etc. - as well as the inside slide bars and simplified motion details, etc.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by mikemeg