Indomitable026 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 The wing rails look to be a bit short, but only on the flare end. Yes, there's quite a lot of issues this has thrown up; - Sleeper width, should we use main line point timbers? - How long should the wing rails and check rails be? - Sleeper spacing on the plan needs tiding up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted November 14, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 14, 2015 Yes, there's quite a lot of issues this has thrown up; - Sleeper width, should we use main line point timbers? - How long should the wing rails and check rails be? - Sleeper spacing on the plan needs tiding up. IMG_1427.JPG Yes, timber spacing I should have sorted before I sent you the plan. The other questions; difficult to say without some more prototype info. Can adjust the plan to suit your best guess at the actual dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Yes, timber spacing I should have sorted before I sent you the plan. The other questions; difficult to say without some more prototype info. Can adjust the plan to suit your best guess at the actual dimensions. No S&C is drawn in the Measured and Drawn book. We may have to measure the prototype at Woody Bay if they have rebuilt the S&C as it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2015 If there is no info for the L & B it might be worth a look at the various 2ft gauge lines in Wales and using the averge dimensions of those. One has to assume of course that there has not been a change in standards in preservation, I would not look at the Welsh Highland as I believe most if not all the track was the recovered from South Africa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 If there is no info for the L & B it might be worth a look at the various 2ft gauge lines in Wales and using the averge dimensions of those. One has to assume of course that there has not been a change in standards in preservation, I would not look at the Welsh Highland as I believe most if not all the track was the recovered from South Africa. What I've decided to do is build this point as per the plan on copper clad, if you remember (I hadn't) my plan is to practise on the fiddleyard points first. I'm off to Spalding show today so I'll see if I can pick up any copper clad point timbers that are 2.5mm thick. Having looked at the plan more it's probably not that far out, I'll place one sleeper down the centre line of the two overlapping sleepers. The wind kept me awake last night so I had plenty of time for looking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted November 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2015 Wind? Too many curries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) A few years ago I wrote to the Welsh Highland Railway about a new turnout being built on the extension to Porthmadog and received a plan by email from them. Sadly for modelling purposes is is far too large in size for all but the largest layouts, even on large layouts whilst it could be used visually may not convey the narrow gauge as we think it looks. This is my take for a smaller layout, I have used code 100 flatbottom rail with Peco track spikes, getting the check rails looking right is a problem though I have used 7 mm scale ply sleeper strip (10") which to my eye looks fine Edited November 15, 2015 by hayfield 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 A few years ago I wrote to the Welsh Highland Railway about a new turnout being built on the extension to Porthmadog and received a plan by email from them. Sadly for modelling purposes is is far too large in size for all but the largest layouts, even on large layouts whilst it could be used visually may not convey the narrow gauge as we think it looks. This is my take for a smaller layout, I have used code 100 flatbottom rail with Peco track spikes, getting the check rails looking right is a problem though 76.JPG I have used 7 mm scale ply sleeper strip (10") which to my eye looks fine Nice, The length of your wing and check rails are similar to the ones Mark has drawn using Templot. I didn't get any sleepers from Spalding show - I couldn't find anyone selling any at all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc2001 Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Hi Damien, A very interesting project you have here. I did some L&B track samples and points in O14 a couple of years back - I've uploaded some pics onto flickr at: https://flic.kr/s/aHskpE2vjr I hope this is useful. John 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Hi Damien, A very interesting project you have here. I did some L&B track samples and points in O14 a couple of years back - I've uploaded some pics onto flickr at: https://flic.kr/s/aHskpE2vjr I hope this is useful. John Hi John, Some very nice work there - really captures the look of the prototype. I'm assuming from this that the checkrails would sit on the three main timbers that also sit under the crossing? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc2001 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Yes they would. I didn't take a photo of them finished. They were for my friend David for his Chelfham layout which he was converting to O14. I'm not sure if he has fitted them yet - must give him a nag. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted November 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2015 Picked up this Chivers kit at Wakefield, not badly built but needs a bit of work a repaint and chassis. It'll be passed on as I've been volunteered as carriage builder. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Right, I've come back all fired up from working on Old Gringo's 'Once Upon a Time.... In the West' at Warley yesterday (link in my signature). I managed to buy some 7mm point timber-width copper clad from C&L, so there is now no reason to not build a point. So I've decided to use Marks Templot plan for rail position, but change the sleeper spacing similar to the plain line (which is drawn in the M&D book). This also brings us pretty close to what Hayfield kindly posted of their L&B point build. Conveniently the spacing ends up a 'round' 3/4" Check rails also shortened at the switch end of the point. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 A few more; 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 So, on the face of it this looks like it may well work out ok (may regret saying that) The end of the switches are supported in the correct place (sleeper S1), The crossing nose is supported (sleeper X4-A) and the whole crossing & check rail assembly are supported by 4 sleepers (.X2-Y. to .X5-B.). So this is my proposal for the heavier track configuration as installed by the Southern. Shout up if you think I'm talking out of my backside but I'm trying to piece this together without all of the information... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted November 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2015 I still can't see how you'll fit the Scottish 25s on the track, but keep going, I'm sure all will become clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 I still can't see how you'll fit the Scottish 25s on the track, but keep going, I'm sure all will become clear. If you're struggling, stick to your monorail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 I have a cunning plan... To get the rail height correct I intend to use these packers. This will allow me to float the solder in the gap between the rail and sleeper - much the same as the aluminium jig does. This will also allow me to offer up the plastic rail plates each side afterwards - cosmetically. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suddaby Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi, There's an article in Bylines this month (Dec) on the L&B carriages! Kevin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 I've been doing a bit at the point, first of all the straight stockrail; 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted November 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 Ah, now I see how the baseplate fits in, didn't quite follow what you meant in your previous post. Can't help thinking you'd be better off with some brass or nickel silver strip of suitable thickness rather than making up the difference in height with solder though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 and with the crossing added; 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Ah, now I see how the baseplate fits in, didn't quite follow what you meant in your previous post. Can't help thinking you'd be better off with some brass or nickel silver strip of suitable thickness rather than making up the difference in height with solder though. But this way I can clean up the sleepers and add the base plates with bolts either side of the rail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted November 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 In that case, I think I'd go for metal strip the same width as the foot of the rail and cut it into sleeper width rectangles. I'd worry about the strength of just using solder, although I'm happy to be proven wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 In that case, I think I'd go for metal strip the same width as the foot of the rail and cut it into sleeper width rectangles. I'd worry about the strength of just using solder, although I'm happy to be proven wrong. I'm not worried about this, the soldered joints are very strong. What I am worried about, however, is that the geometry around the switches doesn't seem correct. I think the point plan is too long which means the angle I've filed on the switch blades using my jig doesn't match. More head scratching. Pass the wine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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