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Dapol 08


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The ActiveDive version of my Class 08 sound project is available from Digitrains. They're closed until 3rd January.

 

ProtoDrive version or 'alternative' ProtoDrive version, each featuring Radio Controlled Shunting (which the ActiveDrive version does not have) see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102801-Dapol-08/?p=2497700 are currently only available direct from me.

 

The original ProtoDrive version is in that video, and in several others in this thread and elsewhere. I have created an alternative version with all the same features but using recordings from a different Class 08. The engine and traction motor sounds are different from the original. It can be used as an alternative for those with more than one Dapol 08 model, or simply as a different first choice.

 

PM me please if you would like more info.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

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My green one with wasp stripes arrived from Tower this morning exactly to the minute advised by the courrier.

 

Despite being very careful removing it from the packaging I still managed to break off the bar between the front steps. Still other than that I am very pleased with the model. Surprised quite how heavy it is.

 

Now to add sound and renumber as D3021 the Norton Junction shunter.

 

9430.

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08202 arrived yesterday to join my earlier green one. It runs just as nicely as the first; I'm already in talks with Paul to get the sound decoder ordered.

 

I do wish the slippery plastic liner Dapol uses in the box were a little larger to better protect the end details. Does anyone know of a source for this material in larger sheets? I've often wished I had more of it.

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The wheels.  Does anyone know what wheel standards Dapol have used.  I bought mine with the intention of spreading the wheels to suit Scale Seven and, at Telford this year, I discussed this with the chap on the stand who told me that they were fine to do this.

 

I have now started this and spread them to 31mm back to back only to find that the wheel geometry is such that the actual flange width to the root of the flange is nearly 1.25mm instead of the usual 1.0mm thus giving a gauge of 33.5mm instead of 33mm.  To get the wheel to sit on the track, I have had to reduce the back to back to 30.5mm to get it to sit on plain 33mm track but now the back to back is too narrow to negotiate the point work.

 

I am sure that anyone using O gauge ultra finescale will come across this same problem as they use the same flangeway dimension.

 

Has anyone else tried this?  Any ideas how to reduce the flange width without totally disassembling the wheels and axles

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08202 arrived yesterday to join my earlier green one. It runs just as nicely as the first; I'm already in talks with Paul to get the sound decoder ordered.

 

I do wish the slippery plastic liner Dapol uses in the box were a little larger to better protect the end details. Does anyone know of a source for this material in larger sheets? I've often wished I had more of it.

I find Kitchen Roll works quite well. but then I don't take mine in and out of the Box very often.

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I find Kitchen Roll works quite well. but then I don't take mine in and out of the Box very often.

Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home?

 

I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging.

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The wheels.  Does anyone know what wheel standards Dapol have used.  I bought mine with the intention of spreading the wheels to suit Scale Seven and, at Telford this year, I discussed this with the chap on the stand who told me that they were fine to do this.

 

I have now started this and spread them to 31mm back to back only to find that the wheel geometry is such that the actual flange width to the root of the flange is nearly 1.25mm instead of the usual 1.0mm thus giving a gauge of 33.5mm instead of 33mm.  To get the wheel to sit on the track, I have had to reduce the back to back to 30.5mm to get it to sit on plain 33mm track but now the back to back is too narrow to negotiate the point work.

 

I am sure that anyone using O gauge ultra finescale will come across this same problem as they use the same flangeway dimension.

 

Has anyone else tried this?  Any ideas how to reduce the flange width without totally disassembling the wheels and axles

I measured mine and they are 0 gauge fine right on top limit. However I have been used to finer O gauge profiles such as those on the Lionheart locos and wagons so although Class 08 maybe to 0 gauge fine standards they are very coarse compared with lionheart profiles.

 

Don't think there is anything you can do to reduce wheel flange profile wihout removal as a huge amount of material will have to be removed using a Lathe or drill post. Hope someone else can help you sorry.

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Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home?

I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging.

Hi kitchen roll is like toilet roll but bigger squares and thicker for spills in the kitchen.

 

Cheers

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Now have my green one as well.

Up for much the same treatment as my earlier black one...

 

Wire wrapped vac pipes

Repositioned internal suppression components to allow decoder to lay flat

Rewired lighting to allow shunting lights on DC operation

Stored charge for 'stay alive' DC lighting at constant brightness.

Switchable DC or DCC ( to allow total isolation of decoder)

Zimo, Paul Chetter sound.

Plus more...

Add a crew...

Smoke unit..

Etc.etc.

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Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home?

 

I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging.

Kitchen Roll over here come in a Roll like a Toilet Roll but about a 1ft square sections, used for mopping up spillages on the worktop.

 

EDIT = Just seen that you now have the answer, good stuff from R M Web again.

Edited by Andrew P
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My top Lamp at the Cab end has fallen off my Black one, I've been told to contact DCC Supplies next week, I hope they have some spares.

 

EDIT = To say I think it was because of taking it in and out of the Box, as has been mentioned, the internal protector being to short to protect the ends.

Edited by Andrew P
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Andy, for the short term I've lined the ends of the box foam cutout with paper, but I think I'm going to have to shave the foam away from the dangly bits. My two are almost an interference fit to the box! Good for shipping, but for everyday transport - not so much.

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I've seen mention a few times in this thread about relocating the suppression chokes to the underside of the PC board to better fit a decoder. I know the UK has regulations regarding EMI suppression, but we don't - and I've had cases where removing the chokes in a model improved running. Has anyone tried simply removing the chokes instead of repositioning them?

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I've seen mention a few times in this thread about relocating the suppression chokes to the underside of the PC board to better fit a decoder. I know the UK has regulations regarding EMI suppression, but we don't - and I've had cases where removing the chokes in a model improved running. Has anyone tried simply removing the chokes instead of repositioning them?

As a matter of interest, how many times does one see suppression chokes fitted to a kit built loco?

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As a matter of interest, how many times does one see suppression chokes fitted to a kit built loco?

Good point. My only concern here would be that the values of the chokes are in some way essential to the operation of the PCB.

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