HeavyDuty Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Thanks - Zimo/Chetter it shall be! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d600 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Thanks - Zimo/Chetter it shall be!Hi could someone please tell me where you can get this decoder and sound files from has I'd like to purchase two for my 08's. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Suggest private messaging Paul on this link... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/user/9747-pauliebanger/ Great decoder! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewery-railways Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Hi could someone please tell me where you can get this decoder and sound files from has I'd like to purchase two for my 08's. Cheers Digitrains. No connection, just a satisfied customer. It's also worthwhile buying the Zimo double speaker set that Jeremy recommends. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 The ActiveDive version of my Class 08 sound project is available from Digitrains. They're closed until 3rd January. ProtoDrive version or 'alternative' ProtoDrive version, each featuring Radio Controlled Shunting (which the ActiveDrive version does not have) see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102801-Dapol-08/?p=2497700 are currently only available direct from me. The original ProtoDrive version is in that video, and in several others in this thread and elsewhere. I have created an alternative version with all the same features but using recordings from a different Class 08. The engine and traction motor sounds are different from the original. It can be used as an alternative for those with more than one Dapol 08 model, or simply as a different first choice. PM me please if you would like more info. Kind regards, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9430 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 My green one with wasp stripes arrived from Tower this morning exactly to the minute advised by the courrier. Despite being very careful removing it from the packaging I still managed to break off the bar between the front steps. Still other than that I am very pleased with the model. Surprised quite how heavy it is. Now to add sound and renumber as D3021 the Norton Junction shunter. 9430. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Snap! Mine also arrived from Tower this morning. Hooray. They kept to the original price too. As to the weight, I think it's like a cat with a magic gravity switch and weighs more out of the box than in. Ed 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 08202 arrived yesterday to join my earlier green one. It runs just as nicely as the first; I'm already in talks with Paul to get the sound decoder ordered. I do wish the slippery plastic liner Dapol uses in the box were a little larger to better protect the end details. Does anyone know of a source for this material in larger sheets? I've often wished I had more of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonymilford Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 The wheels. Does anyone know what wheel standards Dapol have used. I bought mine with the intention of spreading the wheels to suit Scale Seven and, at Telford this year, I discussed this with the chap on the stand who told me that they were fine to do this. I have now started this and spread them to 31mm back to back only to find that the wheel geometry is such that the actual flange width to the root of the flange is nearly 1.25mm instead of the usual 1.0mm thus giving a gauge of 33.5mm instead of 33mm. To get the wheel to sit on the track, I have had to reduce the back to back to 30.5mm to get it to sit on plain 33mm track but now the back to back is too narrow to negotiate the point work. I am sure that anyone using O gauge ultra finescale will come across this same problem as they use the same flangeway dimension. Has anyone else tried this? Any ideas how to reduce the flange width without totally disassembling the wheels and axles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 08202 arrived yesterday to join my earlier green one. It runs just as nicely as the first; I'm already in talks with Paul to get the sound decoder ordered. I do wish the slippery plastic liner Dapol uses in the box were a little larger to better protect the end details. Does anyone know of a source for this material in larger sheets? I've often wished I had more of it. I find Kitchen Roll works quite well. but then I don't take mine in and out of the Box very often. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 I find Kitchen Roll works quite well. but then I don't take mine in and out of the Box very often. Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home? I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Has there been discussion regarding what year the ladders started disappearing? I think I saw reference somewhere that it was when OHLE appeared someplace, but I'm not sure when that would have been. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 The wheels. Does anyone know what wheel standards Dapol have used. I bought mine with the intention of spreading the wheels to suit Scale Seven and, at Telford this year, I discussed this with the chap on the stand who told me that they were fine to do this. I have now started this and spread them to 31mm back to back only to find that the wheel geometry is such that the actual flange width to the root of the flange is nearly 1.25mm instead of the usual 1.0mm thus giving a gauge of 33.5mm instead of 33mm. To get the wheel to sit on the track, I have had to reduce the back to back to 30.5mm to get it to sit on plain 33mm track but now the back to back is too narrow to negotiate the point work. I am sure that anyone using O gauge ultra finescale will come across this same problem as they use the same flangeway dimension. Has anyone else tried this? Any ideas how to reduce the flange width without totally disassembling the wheels and axles I measured mine and they are 0 gauge fine right on top limit. However I have been used to finer O gauge profiles such as those on the Lionheart locos and wagons so although Class 08 maybe to 0 gauge fine standards they are very coarse compared with lionheart profiles. Don't think there is anything you can do to reduce wheel flange profile wihout removal as a huge amount of material will have to be removed using a Lathe or drill post. Hope someone else can help you sorry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d600 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home? I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging. Hi kitchen roll is like toilet roll but bigger squares and thicker for spills in the kitchen. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hi kitchen roll is like toilet roll but bigger squares and thicker for spills in the kitchen. Cheers Aha! We here in the colonies rather cunningly call that "paper towel." 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 "... known generically as "Saran Wrap"," and as cling film in the UK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefromacrossthepond Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Two peoples divided by a common language! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted December 30, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2016 Just a pity the rest of the world can't call things by their proper name by us brits! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodekka Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Now have my green one as well. Up for much the same treatment as my earlier black one... Wire wrapped vac pipes Repositioned internal suppression components to allow decoder to lay flat Rewired lighting to allow shunting lights on DC operation Stored charge for 'stay alive' DC lighting at constant brightness. Switchable DC or DCC ( to allow total isolation of decoder) Zimo, Paul Chetter sound. Plus more... Add a crew... Smoke unit.. Etc.etc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 (edited) Thanks, Andy - what is Kitchen Roll called when it's at home? I suspect it's called something different here. We have a thin, clingy film used for sealing cooking bowls known generically as "Saran Wrap", but it's not like the stuff I see in model packaging. Kitchen Roll over here come in a Roll like a Toilet Roll but about a 1ft square sections, used for mopping up spillages on the worktop. EDIT = Just seen that you now have the answer, good stuff from R M Web again. Edited December 30, 2016 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 (edited) My top Lamp at the Cab end has fallen off my Black one, I've been told to contact DCC Supplies next week, I hope they have some spares. EDIT = To say I think it was because of taking it in and out of the Box, as has been mentioned, the internal protector being to short to protect the ends. Edited December 30, 2016 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Andy, for the short term I've lined the ends of the box foam cutout with paper, but I think I'm going to have to shave the foam away from the dangly bits. My two are almost an interference fit to the box! Good for shipping, but for everyday transport - not so much. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 I've seen mention a few times in this thread about relocating the suppression chokes to the underside of the PC board to better fit a decoder. I know the UK has regulations regarding EMI suppression, but we don't - and I've had cases where removing the chokes in a model improved running. Has anyone tried simply removing the chokes instead of repositioning them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted December 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2016 I've seen mention a few times in this thread about relocating the suppression chokes to the underside of the PC board to better fit a decoder. I know the UK has regulations regarding EMI suppression, but we don't - and I've had cases where removing the chokes in a model improved running. Has anyone tried simply removing the chokes instead of repositioning them? As a matter of interest, how many times does one see suppression chokes fitted to a kit built loco? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 As a matter of interest, how many times does one see suppression chokes fitted to a kit built loco? Good point. My only concern here would be that the values of the chokes are in some way essential to the operation of the PCB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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