Dapol 08

[Greenmodelmonkey]

There are 6 lugs altogether not 4 like in the instructions, the ones nearest the cab seem to release easier and then you can slide say a very thin screwdriver or similar in the gap and then it will pop off, just keep your fingers away from any grab rails and the front ladders.

Martyn.

Squeeze the body not the bonnet as lugs are reversed according to instructions and no need for any tools which may damage/mark the loco. Note Dapol have failed to issue a correct method for removal and they said they would review when I asked .... Still waiting though!!!!

[HeavyDuty]

When you do, could you show/demonstrate "the knack" of removing the top bonnet please?

 

Instructions suggest you squeeze it in the area of the lugs but it all seems pretty ridged to me and I didn't want to force it!

 

Thanks

Others already covered this, but let me add the first time is the worst - it's easier after that.

[brossard]

This dialogue has my warped mind flashing to bishops and actresses. 

 

John

[PupCam]

Thanks for the tips gents.   I'll give it a go!

[F-UnitMad]

Others already covered this, but let me add the first time is the worst - it's easier after that.

I would've thought the first time should be the only time..??!!   

[boxbrownie]

I would've thought the first time should be the only time..??!!   

 

What?  Nah....down the Club showing your mates the neat decoder install, the amazing speaker tucked away in there and the cock up you made of the wiring first time in! 

[autocoach]

Would one of these 08's be usable  as the chassis for a Golden Arrow Maunsell 1937 Diesel shunter shell?

[HeavyDuty]

I would've thought the first time should be the only time..??!!   

One time to have a look under the hood, er, bonnet; another to install the decoder, keep alive and speaker; another to tweak the speaker location; another to resecure the keep alive... etc.

[leopardml2341]

One time to have a look under the hood, er, bonnet; another to install the decoder, keep alive and speaker; another to tweak the speaker location; another to resecure the keep alive... etc.

And a final one to see if there really is a cat inside

[mcrook62]

Hi

I have 3 of the sound 08 and have tried to change the default address 03 to a new address, I have a Hornby Elite dcc controller and have follow the same instuction's as when I had OO lococ's but loco on program track follow instructions put loco back on main track and test.

No joy still set at 03 so how the he'll do I change the address to the one that I want got calls into Dapol awaiting reply.

Any help with this problem pease

[3 link]

Hi Guys,

 

I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time.

 

There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a helpful chap on here who goes by GWC1 started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack!

 

This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime.

 

 

The two types of puller used...

 

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[Jintyman]

Hi Guys,

 

I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time.

 

There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a helpful chap on here who goes by GWC1 started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack!

 

This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime.

 

RenderedContent-34C0273D-2FF2-4D9C-95B6-2B7134BFEE3D.JPG

 

The two types of puller used...

 

RenderedContent-B71AEDEB-6223-4F5D-B233-71C1DC237DF0.JPG

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

 

Thanks for the info Martyn, something I'm intending to do with my three!

 

Jinty

[3 link]

Hi Jinty,

 

I know it's trivial but once something bugs me I have to sort it out. Well I will need a steady hand today as I will be sawing off the ends of the axles and I need to take just 1.7mm off which is the width of those brass spacers. And if all goes well then I might get on to the speedo drive as well.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

[deltic17]

One thing I thought would be of interest to those renumbering from 08202..........

 

I had commented earlier in this thread about the various sizes of numbers applied to TOPS 08's (based mainly on which BREL works they were overhauled at). Well I have found some transfers to assist with renumbering which I have used

 

There are basically 4 sizes:- (with 2 more common ones)

 

Size 1 - very small (probably using 4" coaching stock numbers)

Size 2 - smaller (common)

Size 3 - standard TOPS mainline loco numbering (common) 6"

Size 4 - larger Scottish style numbers

 

08202 comes from Dapol with size '2' referred to above. I have found that Fox Transfers (no connection)(F4330) 4mm O Guage transfers for Network South East are an almost perfect match for the Dapol numbers in terms of size.

 

Also the Fox F4330 pack includes some slightly larger numbers for class 86/87 electrics and these are a perfect match for size '3' referred to above.

 

What is more the F4330 pack has lots of transfers in it so it enables you to do say 4-5 locos and not just one. Hope this helps fellow modellers....

 

I have attached a photo of my 08370 (yes it did have long bonnet catches - before anybody says!!) renumbered (size 2) using pack F4330 sitting next to the standard Dapol 08202.

Edited February 20, 2017 by deltic17

[MarshLane]

Also on this topic, Railtec Transfers do Class 08 numbers that are perfect too - just tell Steve when you order that its for a Dapol 08 and he'll print them the right size.  Either just numbers, or the full loco detail sheet if you needed.  No connection other than as a customer ...etc... etc.. 

 

Rich

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Guys,

 

I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time.

 

There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a helpful chap on here who goes by GWC1 started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack!

 

This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime.

 

RenderedContent-34C0273D-2FF2-4D9C-95B6-2B7134BFEE3D.JPG

 

The two types of puller used...

 

RenderedContent-B71AEDEB-6223-4F5D-B233-71C1DC237DF0.JPG

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

Hi Martyn,

 

Nice work!

 

I keep deliberating about those spacers too - hoping to machine up a puller (the wheel pullers I have wont fit in behind). As I mentioned before on here I believe that the quartering is ever so slightly out on mine too.

 

Im teaching granny to suck eggs Im sure,  but, also, as mentioned before, fit some small washers in place of the collets/spacers

 

Keep up the good work!

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited February 23, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[3 link]

Hi CME,

 

Regarding the quartering, Brian Daniels ( who drives the things for a living ) has a post on this thread 780 showing where it all should go. Basically when the rods are pointing to 12 the weights are at roughly 6.30, mine were well out so I just have to put them right : )

 

Below in the photo you can see the brass spacers that came off the 08 and next to them are the ones to go back on. A bit belt and braces really as the 08 will never suffer a hot box on my layout when they are flat out at 24 mph. The different types of brass rod/ tube that are next to the spacers are the parts that will hopefully become a scratch built speedo drive.

 

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

PS, as for the "puller" well the cranks do not come off easily, if you look at the photos it actually " stretched " that tubing out of shape. I had much better luck with the brass rectangular section, shame it's not near Telford time or I would of brought a bit for you.

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Hi CME,

Regarding the quartering, Brian Daniels ( who drives the things for a living ) has a post on this thread 780 showing where it all should go. Basically when the rods are pointing to 12 the weights are at roughly 6.30, mine were well out so I just have to put them right : )

Below in the photo you can see the brass spacers that came off the 08 and next to them are the ones to go back on. A bit belt and braces really as the 08 will never suffer a hot box on my layout when they are flat out at 24 mph. The different types of brass rod/ tube that are next to the spacers are the parts that will hopefully become a scratch built speedo drive.

RenderedContent-3E2C4DFB-C0A6-4F61-B09C-3DDDCB60F1BB.JPG

ATB,

Martyn.

PS, as for the "puller" well the cranks do not come off easily, if you look at the photos it actually " stretched " that tubing out of shape. I had much better luck with the brass rectangular section, shame it's not near Telford time or I would of brought a bit for you.

For info the balance weights are not exactly at 6.30 and are closer to 7.00 o'clock when crank pin is vertical at 12.00 o'clock (source drawings from wild swan publications No 12 covering the Diesel Electric Shunters). This is due to the connecting rods not being symmetrical as as they have additional upstanding material for the oiling points on top of the connections rods. This additional material will change the point of the balance weight to compensate for this, hence weight it is not directly opposed to crank pin.

 

For those that have access to drawings on publication above, when you look at cross sectional view it looks as though weights are at 5.00 clock but the view is looking from inside to outside so you so you have to reverse view hence it becomes 7.00 o'clock when side view is viewed from outside looking inwards.

Edited February 23, 2017 by Greenmodelmonkey

[3 link]

For info the balance weights are not exactly at 6.30 and are closer to 7.00 o'clock when crank pin is vertical at 12.00 o'clock (source drawings from wild swan publications No 12 covering the Diesel Electric Shunters). This is due to the connecting rods not being symmetrical as as they have additional upstanding material for the oiling points on top of the connections rods. This additional material will change the point of the balance weight to compensate for this, hence weight it is not directly opposed to crank pin.

 

So shall we settle on 06.45, : )

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

Edited February 23, 2017 by 3 link

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi CME,

Regarding the quartering, Brian Daniels ( who drives the things for a living ) has a post on this thread 780 showing where it all should go. Basically when the rods are pointing to 12 the weights are at roughly 6.30, mine were well out so I just have to put them right : )

Below in the photo you can see the brass spacers that came off the 08 and next to them are the ones to go back on. A bit belt and braces really as the 08 will never suffer a hot box on my layout when they are flat out at 24 mph. The different types of brass rod/ tube that are next to the spacers are the parts that will hopefully become a scratch built speedo drive.

RenderedContent-3E2C4DFB-C0A6-4F61-B09C-3DDDCB60F1BB.JPG

ATB,

Martyn.

PS, as for the "puller" well the cranks do not come off easily, if you look at the photos it actually " stretched " that tubing out of shape. I had much better luck with the brass rectangular section, shame it's not near Telford time or I would of brought a bit for you.

Hi Martyn,

 

Thanks for the update and kind thoughts-looks like you are doing a great job (as are many others here) and I can now see what you have replaced the spacers with (sometimes hard to view photos on a mobile etc). Seems an odd design that, not sure why Dapol made axles over-long and thus added collets/spacers.

 

When we get around to it, if succesful, I can Post photos of our modified puller-a buddy of my dad's is going to help me with some accurate machining-mine would be more bodge-it and scarper Ha Ha!

 

Kind regards,

 

M.

[leopardml2341]

Martyn,

 

Please forgive me if I'm being a bit dim, but what was the problem and what did you do to overcome it, sorry I can't work it out from the pics.

[3 link]

Martyn,

Please forgive me if I'm being a bit dim, but what was the problem and what did you do to overcome it, sorry I can't work it out from the pics.

Hi Andy,

 

I have just removed the post because the photos were up the wrong way, once corrected I will repost. Basically the speedo drive shaft is lower than the axles, so to get it connected you have to make the drive arm extend and contract, I have managed this by sliding one tube inside the other.

 

Cheers,

 

Martyn.

[3 link]

The speedo drive has been giving me a lot of grief, the speedo drive shaft is slightly lower than the axles so with each revolution the speedo drive arm needs to extend and contract, as well as revolve at the drive shaft end and also at the coupling rod bracket, ( I hope this is making sense ). Below are a couple of photos showing roughly how I got over these problems, it doesn't look great, but once painted and gunged up I am hoping it will pass muster.

 

 

 

The rods are now back on and so far so good, the chassis is running nice and smooth without any binding.

 

Cheers,

 

Martyn.

Edited March 2, 2017 by 3 link

[leopardml2341]

Martyn,

 

Is the speedometer drive a Dapol part that comes with the loco or is it something you've fabricated?

 

If the latter how?

 

If the former how did it need to be modified - sorry still not 'getting' the before and after, as it were, from the pics

[3 link]

Andy,

 

It's something I've fabricated, if you look at photos of the real thing you will see the speedo drive I'm trying to replicate. It's just me I like to try and get it right. If you look back at the last couple of pages you will see where I'm coming from.

 

Martyn.