rob D2 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Were these announced by Bachmann ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mackay Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Returning to the original topic, about four years ago I needed baseboard connectors for a semi-permanent layout that was to be transportable but not, except for one unit, portable. Baseboards are about 2x6 feet with 1/2 inch plywood on nominal 1x5 lumber framing, manageable for assembly by one person. The portable baseboard being a much smaller bridging unit of the same construction. So, I needed connectors that would carry some weight and, in one case at least, permit easy addition and removal of a baseboard unaided. Fortunately, the deep frames gave a fair amount of room. The solution I found was adjustable cabinet hangers from Lee Valley here in Canada: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/Page.aspx?p=69011&cat=3,40914,50426 The baseboards hook together, have screw adjustment vertically, slide horizontally, and securely lock together. Setting up the portable section on the layout takes only a minute or two. Usual disclaimer: I have no connection with the company other than a satisfied customer. They export internationally, and number of other products in their catalogue will be of interest to modellers. -- Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Maybe wasted time reading through all this, especially as there is no picture to show what it looks like. Anyway i believe the biggest problem with baseboard joints is lining up the tracks, so i started there with my 3D printed design I have done versions in 16.5mm gauge and 32mm gauge, and longer lengths, so they can be placed at an angle across joint and cut. Designed to fit code 100 rail, which suits me and could be joined to other rail sizes. We have all had rails expand and contract when we move layout to from various venues, and difference between December amd Julyin club rooms can also be quite a lot. Just have rails of different length to suit. I have had these on show at some exhibitions. The Bradford O gauge group had a good look at one exhibition. I got my test sample back from RM , so am hoping it might get a mention there. I am at Leeds exhibition at end of the month. It does not solve problem of fixing the boards, but G clamps would probably be sufficient, as the tracks line up, so less need to use anything more complex. more details here http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/Board_joiners/Board-joiners.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Omg , last November I read through this thread and wasted 8 minutes of my life. Now I just read it again, who woke this monster up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted October 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2016 It only took me five minutes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 It only took me five minutes. You probably skipped the pictures Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 there are some very interesting items of hardware on these pages , I like the 3d printed track bases, however they are only for code 100 now we could do with code 75. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 This is my way to make adapters between blocks. Baseboard joiners were made in three millimeters steel by laser cutting and bending machine. There are cone pivots fastened by welding and also cone holes. Some holes in L-girder have threads so you are able to fasten some parts to L-girder if you like. I hope that you might get ideas for your own projects. Petri Sallinen Helsinki, Finland Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I would buy those Petri! I expect Brian Wilson will have retired by now given the amount of money that has racked up (or should that have been raqued up) from people phoning to find out what this wonder product is. I think we are all featuring now in a PhD thesis somewhere on how to bait people to look for something that does not exist (and after two years there really ought to be some evidence of it if it is real) at a website that purports to be a blog but is really selling stuff that has all sold out and is actually a demo site to sell websites while making a bit on the side from getting desperate people to phone in. Very drol. I think the second best solution so far is the gravity one. Just leave two legs off each baseboard and lean it up against the next one. Will work for a roundy roundy, but might need an extra operator to support the end board otherwise. Should the phone number in the early post be checked to see if it is fraud? Does it have a really really long recorded message by any chance? "There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as ..." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I'm sorry to be a grump, but what's actually wrong with the brass pattern-makers' dowels we all know and have been around for years? As a numpty who until a few layouts ago relied on nothing but coach bolts and luck to align boards, I can't imagine needing anything better than what's already available. Just sayin'... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I've got five tracks crossing this board. They are all soldered to that brassy plastic strip stuff. Aligned by running trucks over and then backed up with coach bolts in slightly too big holes. It's been a bit of a nightmare , I'd like something clunk click done... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted October 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2016 I've got five tracks crossing this board. They are all soldered to that brassy plastic strip stuff. Aligned by running trucks over and then backed up with coach bolts in slightly too big holes. It's been a bit of a nightmare , I'd like something clunk click done... There is nothing wrong with the EM Gauge Society board aligning dowels, a very very similar type is available from Eileens Emporium. If you have trouble locating them, I will get my PC up and running and post a link. I have been involved with a number of exhibition layouts that use these and toggle clips to align and join the boards. It takes longer to unfurl the cables and join them than it does to put the layout together, nuts and bolts, aggghhh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightengine Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 If these are fitted correctly to both boards it only needs a toggle/lock to keep both boards from sliding. http://www.screwfix.com/p/rising-butt-hinges-self-colour-70-x-73mm-2-pack/68541?kpid=68541&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CLPJopW56s8CFRVuGwodm5oJNg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium njee20 Posted October 20, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 20, 2016 I can't believe I've just read all of that. Massive disappointment. And they're G-cramps, we were always told that. Left school in 2004. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Strange to introduce something without any details.....if it is so much better it should have patent protection. Bolts and dowels work for most, I use the pin dowels on the edge. and have the bolt on the edges, via brackets, for convenience, all parts are standard unmodified ironmongers stock, cheap and replaceable. A toggle clamp system might be easy to use, but again standard toggle pull clamps are stock items already, and cost more than 6 mm bolts! Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 If you want a better joint, then look to improving the wood work not the hardware. The joints on my old exhibition P4 layout were an A and a B end on each board, the A end had a vertical facing to the end of the board, with a batten screwed and glued to it at right angles in section, The width of the bottom extension was twice the size of the battens thickness, then a further batten was screwed to the top. This leaves an end A with a trough that a batten on the B end drops into very neatly. levels can be adjusted by packing glued into the channel. The joint is finished with bolts, no dowels, vertically through the edges, with wing nuts underneath, and a cap over the hole on top. Drawing shows joint Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted October 21, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2016 If these are fitted correctly to both boards it only needs a toggle/lock to keep both boards from sliding. http://www.screwfix.com/p/rising-butt-hinges-self-colour-70-x-73mm-2-pack/68541?kpid=68541&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CLPJopW56s8CFRVuGwodm5oJNg I will be using "loose pin hinges " less to catch when transporting and much cheaperhttp://www.screwfix.com/p/steel-loose-pin-hinges-zinc-plated-102-x-40mm-20-pack/62135 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 21, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2016 I will be using "loose pin hinges " less to catch when transporting and much cheaper http://www.screwfix.com/p/steel-loose-pin-hinges-zinc-plated-102-x-40mm-20-pack/62135 One thing you might find with loose pin hinges is that they are not completely flat across the back plus you need to be able to get the pin in and out - hence I had to cut a chamfer on the end of the baseboard units Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 One thing you might find with loose pin hinges is that they are not completely flat across the back plus you need to be able to get the pin in and out - hence I had to cut a chamfer on the end of the baseboard units DSCF0146.jpg When I have used them in the past - the hinges I used have been the perfect size to take a replacement pin , made from wire coat-hangers from dry cleaners, bent into an L-shape and cut to length - makes removing and replacing them much easier, and use a file to narrow the "inserting" end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Free At Last Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 The Stationmaster, on 21 Oct 2016 - 12:29, said: One thing you might find with loose pin hinges is that they are not completely flat across the back plus you need to be able to get the pin in and out - hence I had to cut a chamfer on the end of the baseboard units DSCF0146.jpg I see they come with some spare holes so you should be able to get at least one good screw fix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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