jjnewitt Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 It looks like yours came apart a darn sight easier than mine P! A friend and I spent the best part of 2 hours on Saturday morning trying to get one of the LMS examples in bits, there was glue everywhere. Most of the plastic from the under frame is in the bin now... I hadn't noticed the joggled axleguards. That's a nice touch. I do wonder if the welded end version should have RCH axleguards though? Did any diagram 1/151 wagons have these? I thought they were all built with BR plate. It would be interesting to know if they were. Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Maybe the cast metal chassis isn't a new idea for a wagon After a bit of scratching and poking I think it's just the cross-member for the coupling mounting that's metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted December 20, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 20, 2016 After a bit of scratching and poking I think it's just the cross-member for the coupling mounting that's metal. Really ? In the photo above, I'm sure that I can see bare metal in those recesses behind the solebar. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Really ? In the photo above, I'm sure that I can see bare metal in those recesses behind the solebar. Regards, John Isherwood. I stand corrected, the metal of the solebar felt quite soft to a blade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted December 20, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2016 I stand corrected, the metal of the solebar felt quite soft to a blade. A future candidate for mazak rot? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 A future candidate for mazak rot? I've wondered about that as well. They're a very good model though and there are some really nice touches on the body moulding. Full credit to Hornby for doing two versions as well and they're really well thought out. The only thing I really don't like is the pronouced bow in the side raves but that's probably inevitable. I might see what I can do about that. :-) Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted December 20, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2016 A future candidate for mazak rot? Mike. That's like saying the sky is falling.............when it does we can worry about it then..........until then.......... Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 That's like saying the sky is falling.............when it does we can worry about it then..........until then.......... Not necesarily. Though most will never look past RTR, for some there are other ways in arriving at a model of a coke hopper. It may be that the material used in the Hornby underframe influences the decision on what route they take. It has certainly influenced my thinking about what to do with the underframes on mine. I don't want to spend a load of work on my models and then find I have do even more work down the line... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 It looks like yours came apart a darn sight easier than mine P! A friend and I spent the best part of 2 hours on Saturday morning trying to get one of the LMS examples in bits, there was glue everywhere. Most of the plastic from the under frame is in the bin now... Mine also had suffered from a surfeit of glue and removing the buffers and Monkey tails resulted in casualties. The buffers were getting replaced as a matter of course and the damaged monkey tails mounting holes have been drilled to 0.8 mm to accept tube into which some brass tails made from flattened brass wire will be inserted. Before I started stripping things down, I have to admit to spending 15 minutes inspecting the chassis under a magnifier to establish how it was assembled and confirming my suspicions after studying Hornby's pre production pics. I've got a selection of No. 12 blades with the cutting ends reduced to various widths which I find ideal for slipping between components to break bonds. Doesn't work every time but I managed to get the main plastic assembly reduced to it's individual parts without to much trauma. I do wonder if the welded end version should have RCH axleguards though? Did any diagram 1/151 wagons have these? I thought they were all built with BR plate. It would be interesting to know if they were. Looking through photographs I haven't come across any as yet. I'm going to have a go at super gluing the outside of a Bill Bedford plate W iron to the inside of the solebar. Hopefully it will be strong enough to avoid pinning but I'll not be surprised if it ends all up as a failure with the whole lot looking like a new born fawn. Luckily I know a fella that does a nice line in springs and axle boxes. Pity we couldn't walk down this line of wagons photographed by the well traveled Mr Brooksbank. Still a few predominantly grey, I note. Site of Beckton Station © Copyright Ben Brooksbank and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence. I'm sure Hornby will have tried sorting out the mazak (if that's what it is?) problem. I dont suppose they will be wanting repetions of the class 31's and 50's. If they haven't it will not bode well for the Peckett. It would seem that most of that particurlar loco is cast out of the stuff. If the castings do start disintegrating before our very eyes there may be a business opportunity for some enterprising whippersnapper that knows a thing or two about CAD. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted December 20, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2016 Not necesarily. Though most will never look past RTR, for some there are other ways in arriving at a model of a coke hopper. It may be that the material used in the Hornby underframe influences the decision on what route they take. It has certainly influenced my thinking about what to do with the underframes on mine. I don't want to spend a load of work on my models and then find I have do even more work down the line... So are we to assume that Hornby haven't resolved any earlier issues. None of my various Hornby models have been affected. Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Pity we couldn't walk down this line of wagons photographed by the well traveled Mr Brooksbank. Still a few predominantly grey, I note. Site of Beckton Station © Copyright Ben Brooksbank and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence. Nice photo P. You certainly did a better job of getting it to bits than us. This was the kitchen table Saturday morning: I'm sure Hornby will have tried sorting out the mazak (if that's what it is?) problem. I dont suppose they will be wanting repetions of the class 31's and 50's. If they haven't it will not bode well for the Peckett. It would seem that most of that particurlar loco is cast out of the stuff. So are we to assume that Hornby haven't resolved any earlier issues. None of my various Hornby models have been affected. I'm pretty sure it's Mazac that they've used in these and I'm also sure that Hornby have done their best to sort out the problem, as have Bachmann and Heljan but, as I understand it, it's down to the people making the metal in the first place. Most of the time it seem to be ok but occasionally not. Mazac rot has been an intermittent issue for decades and there is no guarantee that it has been eliminated. The trouble is we may not find out the answer to that for years to come. I was considering doing something along the lines of what P is planning with mine and producing a replacement axleguard and brakegear unit but given the material the underframe is made out of I am conisdering whether it is worth spending a few extra hours now doing a complete underframe and saving myself the possibility of having to redo the work in a few years time. None of this will be the slightest interest to most and these wagons may well be fine, but it's a consideration for me. Justin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 It looks to my eyes that the brake push-rods are modelled inclined towards the wheel treads, wrt the wagon's centreline. If so, is this a first in a RTR product? The Nim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 (edited) This was the kitchen table Saturday morning: I'll raise you a Hornby Brake Van Interior (and a rough one at that). I can see where you're coming from with your thoughts about the chassis. One of mine will get it's chance with 2 mm milled of each end and brass beams glued back on to go under a Head Wrightson Pulverite tanker. It would be interesting to find out what chemicals or reaction cause the rot to set in. All my Tri-ang stuff from the fifties, sixties and early seventies are ok. This was the kitchen table Saturday morning: Edited December 20, 2016 by Porcy Mane 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I can see where you're coming from with your thoughts about the chassis. One of mine will get it's chance with 2 mm milled of each end and brass beams glued back on to go under a Head Wrightson Pulverite tanker. That'll be fun! It would be interesting to find out what chemicals or reaction cause the rot to set in. All my Tri-ang stuff from the fifties, sixties and early seventies are ok. Contamination of the zinc with lead. There are a couple of useful answers in this thread. I've heard of diecast cars from the 60s simply turning to dust. Just because isomething's made of Mazac doesn't mean it's going to rot. Most Mazac is fine but contamination does occur from time to time and if does then the metal will eventually fail. Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 All this disection and postulation is fascinating. Replacement chassis' are an interesting proposition, especially as some of us still have 3H beasties stashed away in dark places. Initially, I will put a pair of Ultrascale EMF profile wheels in one of the two I have acquired to see how it behaves. Mind, the Inquisition will be after me.......... Wibble! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 All this disection and postulation is fascinating. Replacement chassis' are an interesting proposition, especially as some of us still have 3H beasties stashed away in dark places. Initially, I will put a pair of Ultrascale EMF profile wheels in one of the two I have acquired to see how it behaves. Mind, the Inquisition will be after me.......... Wibble! But I thought nobody expected the Inquisition..... TFIC Dave Franks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 TFIC Humbug! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 No, no not the comfy chair... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 soooo - slice the rivets, raves and strapping off, fill the gap, bit of a rub-down and some strapping = diagram 1/152 ???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 How easy is it to just remove the body from the underframe please? Cheers, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 It is pleasant to see that the early version has been released in Appleby Froddingham PO livery! Some Iron Ore hoppers to keep it company would be appropriate? Mark Saunders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 How easy is it to just remove the body from the underframe please? I didn't find it very easy at all. It took us a couple of hours to get one of mine apart mainly due to the large amount of glue which was holding everything together and trying to work out where all the clips were. Porcy did a much better job with his (see above) but a lot of mine was unsalvageable by the time we'd finished. I must add that we didn't set out with the intention of keeping all the plastic bits, if we had it would have taken us longer. Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 (edited) How easy is it to just remove the body from the underframe please? Just to add to Justin's post: I removed the body by levering the end stanchions outward to separate them from their recesses in the buffer beam. (Blue Arrows). They are glued but in my case the stanchions came away undamaged. Secondly the clips (red arrows) are pushed towards the centre at one end and once clear of the metal chassis the body should be free to lift away. Don't worry about the screws. They just hold the coupling assembly in place. On my hopper, the screws were slightly too long and were trying to force the body from the chassis. P Edited January 6, 2017 by Porcy Mane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 soooo - slice the rivets, raves and strapping off, fill the gap, bit of a rub-down and some strapping = diagram 1/152 ???? Et Voila...!!!! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/119082-diagram-1152-coke-hopper/ Link to '''Ow I did it" Cheers from Oz, Peter C. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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