Oxford Diecast/Golden Valley - YE Janus 0-6-0DE

[Ruston]

Superb, Dave.

 

Is the small gap between the cab and the footplate what was alluded to earlier in the thread?

 

Also, how overscale are those handrails, they are clearly plastic and look a tad overscale. Might be able to live with that, a replacement etch could be problematical, as it wouldn't represent the roundness of the handrails, so a soldered up job of the appropriate brass or N/S wire might be called for.

 

Evening, Cap'n,

 

There is a small gap but it's nothing to write home about. It could be fixed by filing the cab/bonnet join but because I have painted the cab black it doesn't show so much and I couldn't be bothered to be honest.

 

The handrails seem to be moulded and have a mould line, which makes them appear overscale in height but the greater the problem I had with them was that they weren't straight. There are holes in the metal body for them to fit into and some had not been pushed in far enough but the glue had set, which left them wobbly. I replaced all the handrails with ones, made from 0.5mm brass wire that was soldered together.

Edited July 30, 2017 by Ruston

[Sir Hadyn]

It was with great trepidation that I took mine in to work to try out on Thursday. I haven't taken mine to bits to look at flywheels etc but was hugely relieved to find it ran well and slowly. I have to confess not to have checked printing and this one will be getting etched plates and the NCB works for my "one day" colliery layout.

 

Interesting to read the comments on the handrails too, they should be fairly straightforward to replace in accordance with Dave's advice.

Edited July 30, 2017 by Sir Hadyn

[PenrithBeacon]

If it bothers you, you'll have to be careful with that one. As with all ICI Janus Locos the buffer beams & valances are cropped from the aprrox. wheel centreline at a more severe angle.

 

This pic probably illustrates the difference better.

 

https://flic.kr/p/bNEGAM

 

P

Deleted, answered the wrong post! Edited July 30, 2017 by PenrithBeacon

[PenrithBeacon]

Shouldn't need a diagram. Just a simple matter of swapping the red and black motor wires on their respective terminals on the circuit board.( I don't have one yet so assume it's a de-soldering/re-soldering job).

 

Looking at this pic it's teminals M1 and M2 that need to be swapped.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/105523-oxford-diecastgolden-valley-ye-janus-0-6-0de/page-12&do=findComment&comment=2788501

 

P

Thanks for that.

Regards

[Ruston]

If it bothers you, you'll have to be careful with that one. As with all ICI Janus Locos the buffer beams & valances are cropped from the aprrox. wheel centreline at a more severe angle.

 

This pic probably illustrates the difference better.

 

https://flic.kr/p/bNEGAM

 

P

Not all ICI Janus were like that. The one that Post #13 - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124591-yorkshire-engine-company-janus-model-and-prototype/

[SDJR7F88]

A short running session, doubled up as part of the run-in (hence the un-prototypical speed). After about half hour without load, and 1 hour with, the difference in performance was really noticeable, no sticking and just crawls around the yard. Really pleased with this little loco, even though she goes the wrong way.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTEW-1cyjag

 

Edited July 31, 2017 by SDJR7F88

[Guest Midland Mole]

Really pleased with this little loco, even though she goes the wrong way.

 

With a double ended loco, that can be subjective

Alex

[Scottish Modeller]

With a double ended loco, that can be subjective

Alex

Hi Alex,

 

Whilst that may be subjective in a lot of cases - it isn't in the case of these locos.

 

Some of the locos run in the opposite direction to other locos - even of the same model.

 

Whilst it can be resolved with a minimal amnount of work - why should it be up to the buyer to do this?

 

It should run in the direction according toi normal DC or DCC convention without modification.

 

Thanks

[Ruston]

I have wondered into a different world with this model; the world of RTR.  People sending them back because they run the wrong way, or because the flywheel is missing... Think yourselves lucky that you don't have to build the thing from sheets of brass etches, or from scratch, which is the way all industrial railway modellers have been doing it for decades because until very recently no one made proper industrial locos RTR in any scale.

 

Do you really need a flywheel anyway? I suppose that on 12vDC, on a fast passenger loco or similar, a flywheel is going to give a more realistic stopping effect as the thing won't stop dead as soon as you knock the power off, and I can see how on something high-geared a flywheel may keep turning enough to get the loco over a bad pick up area on the track, but on slow-moving low-geared shunting loco that has only a small lightweight flywheel I can't see any advantage whatsoever. It's just a gimmick and the space would be better used sticking a lump of lead in there for extra traction.

[gpplumy]

swapped the wires on one of mine today, fairly eays to do just a shame that the wire protection bracket cant be used correctly, i still have the other to do but due to getting it repainted ill leave it to my friend doing the spraying, as far as issues are

 

olivias have had a lot of complaints about loco wobble as its going down the track.

 

mine are still tight in places but dont lock up like my last did 

 

the wiring being backwards

 

the printing (both of mine have the printing on the doors one side and bonnets the other as did hornbys mode, so is this a mistake ?

 

 

either way im still happy with the model overall

 

[45568]

Courtesy of a Sheffield emporium my 'Janus' and three NCB wagons arrived yesterday. With some trepidation following comments on this forum, I placed the loco. on the track...it ran the correct way! All lettering is where it should be, and the printing is crisp and full. After 30 minutes each way running in on a rolling road, the loco. is very quiet, controllable down to a crawl, even through dead-frog pointwork, and capably handles 30 loaded coal wagons, mainly Bachmann with Wagon Essentials loads.

 I am very pleased with the model, and it has a certain 'cute' factor about it, partly because it really is quite small!

I now look forward to the N7!

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

[Down_Under]

That makes 2 two Janus that made it down under -mine arrived today from Hattons

[Down_Under]

Got my Janus out and had a good look. Not tested as I'll have to regauge to P4. But overall impressed. Mine had suffered from the 12,000mile journey a little, but nothing a little glue can't fix.

 

 

Not the fly wheel lucky dip I got one

 

 

But overall I nice little loco. Compared to the Hornsby sentinel - many more finely attached parts and I love the exhaust covers that lift up. All in all a good year for industrial rtr 2 x sentinel a peckett, updates Austerity and a Janus. Whose gonna do a half Janus?

 

Couple of shots in a layout mock up I'm working on

 

 

 

That's all for now

[shedman]

Has anyone had a factory sound fitted one yet? Do we know when they're due out?

[No Decorum]

Has anyone had a factory sound fitted one yet? Do we know when they're due out?

I have one on order but there’s no sign of it yet. I think it’s likely that they’ll be sound fitted in the UK, so I expect a wait. If Oxford and Golden Valley have any gumption at all, whoever is fitting the sound will be asked to check the mechanism, fit a flywheel if none is present and correct the wiring if necessary. I have no clue when they’re due but it might be later rather than sooner if corrective action is taken.

[Dagworth]

Not quite sure why people are referring to a flywheel lottery as to whether the flywheel is fitted, every single one has been shown to have a flywheel, just that the motor is fitted backwards in around a third of the models.

Andi

Edited August 2, 2017 by Dagworth

[Sandhole]

I have wondered into a different world with this model; the world of RTR.  People sending them back because they run the wrong way, or because the flywheel is missing... Think yourselves lucky that you don't have to build the thing from sheets of brass etches, or from scratch, which is the way all industrial railway modellers have been doing it for decades because until very recently no one made proper industrial locos RTR in any scale.

 

Do you really need a flywheel anyway? I suppose that on 12vDC, on a fast passenger loco or similar, a flywheel is going to give a more realistic stopping effect as the thing won't stop dead as soon as you knock the power off, and I can see how on something high-geared a flywheel may keep turning enough to get the loco over a bad pick up area on the track, but on slow-moving low-geared shunting loco that has only a small lightweight flywheel I can't see any advantage whatsoever. It's just a gimmick and the space would be better used sticking a lump of lead in there for extra traction.

 

Damn Straight!!!!!

Thanks for this post, it stopped me having a rant on a similar theme!!!

[Porcy Mane]

Not all ICI Janus were like that. The one that Post #13 - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124591-yorkshire-engine-company-janus-model-and-prototype/

 Yep you're right. I should have said "ICI Billingham"

[PenrithBeacon]

Shouldn't need a diagram. Just a simple matter of swapping the red and black motor wires on their respective terminals on the circuit board.( I don't have one yet so assume it's a de-soldering/re-soldering job).

 

Looking at this pic it's teminals M1 and M2 that need to be swapped.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/105523-oxford-diecastgolden-valley-ye-janus-0-6-0de/page-12&do=findComment&comment=2788501

 

P

Many thanks for that, I've just swapped the leads over and oiled around and now it runs perfectly.

There doesn't seem to be any room in the cab for a driver.

Regards

[25901]

Many thanks for that, I've just swapped the leads over and oiled around and now it runs perfectly.

There doesn't seem to be any room in the cab for a driver.

Regards

 

That OK , it must be a remote control version 

[Tim Hall]

Many thanks for that, I've just swapped the leads over and oiled around and now it runs perfectly.

There doesn't seem to be any room in the cab for a driver.

Regards

I've fitted two crew into mine, but they are quite thin. I'll try a take a couple of snaps tomorrow.

[Andy Y]

Golden Valley Hobbies have sent out an email addressing some of the points raised by customers:

 

 

Feedback so far:

Customers need to run in the model at a sensible speed- perhaps 25% power in both directions for around 15 minutes. This will improve their smooth running and extend their lives.

 

Half Wave settings - our locos should not be operated using the Half Wave settings on old controllers - such as the 1970's H&M Duette or Clipper. Half Wave settings are unnecessary and overheat modern motors.  They will significantly reduce the lifespan of a modern motor.

 

Reverse movements:

Some of the batch have been assembled with either the motor or the feed to it in reverse - the motor is almost symmetrical so it was not obvious from the components I understand. The factory think it was mainly one production team which mis-assembled the model but the exact quantity of problematic locos is not known. As it was a production team - you can expect the problem locos to be in groups - so one model shop may find all their locos are effected, another has no problems.

As a two headed loco the problem is not noticeable on it's own as turning the speed controller to the forward position will send the loco forward - BUT - on a layout it will travel 'forward' in the opposite direction to most other locos!

 

This may be annoying or cause some customers frustration, so Tim has designed a simple fix which customers should be comfortable fixing themselves.

 

He has asked the engineers to design a replacement DCC Blanking Plug which is wired in reverse. The factory are producing these as a priority job and are air shipping them to us later this month.  So from early September we can offer any customer, or retailer a free replacement DCC Decoder blanking plug. We will also produce some illustrated instructions showing how to change the plug. Effected owners simply email us with a photo or scan of their receipt or loco box to: info@goldenvalleyhobbies.com with their name and address.  

Once installed the loco will run forward correctly.

 

Obviously for customers not keen to open their model we would encourage the retailer to help them, but in other cases they can be posted to us and we will undertake the upgrade for them.

 

When operated in DCC the fix is even simpler, a customer simply programmes CV29 to '1' which also reverses the direction of a loco.

[tractionman]

Mine runs very smoothly in both directions, whichever way round these are, and in one direction is as quiet as a mouse, but oddly when running in the opposite direction is rather noisy, despite lubrication, and I'm not sure why?

 

Any thoughts folks?

 

The noise is a sort of nying sound but not constant, more like something is rubbing somewhere, strange...

 

All the best,

 

Keith

[Scottish Modeller]

Hi all,

 

Having had time and opportunity - at the recent St andrews model railway exhibiton....

 

I had a good look at the model and attempted to discover why there is a gap under the cab even when it has been pushed firmly down into place.

 

There appears to be 3 possible areas that may be the cause.

 

1 - The exhaust stacks sit flush but the cad does not sit fully down

 

Carefully cut back the bottom of the exhaust stacks to allow the cab to sit further down and minimalise the gap as a result.

 

2 - The moulded clips on the cab itself not sitting fully into the holes on the body

 

Carefully trim the clips so that they fit better, carefully trim the holes in the body to accept the clips better.

 

3 - The underside of the cab moulding preventing the cab from sitting fully down onto the body

 

Carefully trim parts of the cab mooulding to allow the cab to sit fully down.

 

In the end a combination of all 3 worked for me - but I did have to stick the cab to the rest of the body moulding.

 

Photos once I get the thing out of the away kit that I havent yet unpacked from the weekend!

 

Thanks

Edited August 9, 2017 by Scottish Modeller

[Scottish Modeller]

Mine runs very smoothly in both directions, whichever way round these are, and in one direction is as quiet as a mouse, but oddly when running in the opposite direction is rather noisy, despite lubrication, and I'm not sure why?

 

Any thoughts folks?

 

The noise is a sort of nying sound but not constant, more like something is rubbing somewhere, strange...

 

All the best,

 

Keith

Hi Keith,

 

Having had one totally apart at the weekend and then put back together....

 

Check the pickups on the wheel backs - one of mine had a slight twist that was causing a noise similar to the one you describe.

 

Once fiddled with to straighten the pick up - the noise has gone.

 

Thanks