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Warren Haywood Painting and lining


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Thanks for the likes chaps,

 

Just a bit about me, I'm a full time painter in 4,7 and 10mm scales and have been so for about 15 years.

If there is anything or any help you need requiring painting and lining feel free to ask.

 

Another picture to be going on with

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Hello Warren, I wish I had known about you earlier. Last year I had a scratch built Midland Compound in "as built ". condition in 4mm. I painted it myself, and really didn't make a very good job.

Most of my other locos were painted by Larry Goddard, before he retired.

The ones you have shown are mind blowing, absolutely superb.

Derek

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Hello Warren, I wish I had known about you earlier. Last year I had a scratch built Midland Compound in "as built ". condition in 4mm. I painted it myself, and really didn't make a very good job.

Most of my other locos were painted by Larry Goddard, before he retired.

The ones you have shown are mind blowing, absolutely superb.

Derek

Hi Derek

Thanks for the compliments,

Shame about the compound, it could always be stripped and re-done for you

Warren

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Quite sublime, Warren. What skill and attention to detail! I love the driver's moustache.

 

I'm looking for some white-black-red lining for my Caley 482 black 0-6-0 tank. Is there a source of transfers for it that doesn't mean two separate white and red lines parallel but apart?

 

All power to you, Graham

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Thanks Graham, although I cannot take credit for the figures. They were painted and detailed by Mike Sheardown

 

Regarding lining transfers, I'm not sure, as all my lining is done with a bow pen and enamel paint. Possibly speak to fox transfers they may be able to help you.

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Hello all, great show at Bristol this year and picked up a few commissions I wasn't expecting.

I'm just about to start painting an MOK Armstrong, which will be my third with another two booked in for later in the year.

Here are one or two pictures of a completed one, I shall post pictures of the new job as I go

 

 

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Ok, here goes with the Armstrong

First job is to take the thing to bits, when painting it's preferable to have as many sub assemblies as possible. The way MOK design their kits with painting in mind is excellent.

Now I will spend an hour or so checking edges and cleaning off any excess solder, but knowing who built this one that shouldn't be an issue. I will also polish any brass beading which will aid paint removal after each coat. I don't bother to mask the beading as the mask edge will be uneven, I just scrape it off with one or two custom made tools.

Once I am happy with the state of the model it will be given a good clean, first with bar keepers friend which has scouring properties and shifts most of the crud. I follow this with a scrub with viakal. The final act after a good rinse in water is to rinse it in cellulose thinners which dissolves any grease from fingers.

The model is now ready to accept primer which will be applied as soon as the model is totally dry.

 

 

 

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Top quality work........ And PeteWaterman thought no one was 'coming up' when I retired from painting & finishing 12 years ago.  What surprises me is you have time to take in extra work, so I hope you are making a good living. Having to paint whatever is thrust in front of one can be a bummer after a while. Friend Alan Brackenborough is not taking as much work in and the other top painters I know are not getting any younger, so you should be in a position to pick and choose.

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Top quality work........ And PeteWaterman thought no one was 'coming up' when I retired from painting & finishing 12 years ago.  What surprises me is you have time to take in extra work, so I hope you are making a good living. Having to paint whatever is thrust in front of one can be a bummer after a while. Friend Alan Brackenborough is not taking as much work in and the other top painters I know are not getting any younger, so you should be in a position to pick and choose.

Thanks Larry

I know what you mean, but it's a living and I tend not to turn work down. Bracks and Ian Rathbone are now passing customers onto me so I'm managing to keep fairly steady. Done a fair bit for Pete aswell and he is kind enough to recommend me to people who ask him.

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The primer was applied yesterday and allowed 24hours to cure, this morning I have sprayed the Indian red areas. The bogie and tender frames are acceptable so the paint was scraped from the brass beading. There are one or two minor dust specs in the paint on the loco frames so these areas will be rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry and respray ex. Once I'm happy with that the paint can be removed from the splasher beading.

Tomorrow onto the black areas.

Although there is not much to see, here is the current situation

 

 

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The primer was applied yesterday and allowed 24hours to cure, this morning I have sprayed the Indian red areas. The bogie and tender frames are acceptable so the paint was scraped from the brass beading. There are one or two minor dust specs in the paint on the loco frames so these areas will be rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry and respray ex. Once I'm happy with that the paint can be removed from the splasher beading.

Tomorrow onto the black areas.

Although there is not much to see, here is the current situation

 

 

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What paint do you use for the Indian red Warren, that looks just right!

Cheers

Simon

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