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Stoke Courtenay


checkrail
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No problem Keith.  Feel free anytime.  But was beginning to wonder why I seemed to be in a conversation I couldn't remember, and blaming it all on last night's beers!

 

Cheers (and The Navy Lark was great).

 

John

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Here are the main bits of the rebuilt H33 just before final assembly.

P1060837.JPG.bc32efd3f1c1299ae7d99b6603b0ace3.JPG

 

One or two of you might remember my first abortive attempt at painting.  I did receive the Hycote Peugeot Cafe Noir but it was far worse than my old Halford's one.  I'm glad I tested it first on some scrap plastic - it was like spraying creosote.  I should have expected that at £12.99 for 6 cans on Ebay!  Probably been sitting in some warehouse for donkeys' years. So I nursed the old Halford's can downstairs for a few days and cleaned out the nozzle before having another go..  This time it didn't look so bad, especially after several layers of Dullcote had covered it.

 

I cheated a bit on the droplights, cutting them out, including glazing, from redundant PC Models toplight sides. The lack of relief isn't noticeable at NVD.  Like the plain glazing they're attached with DeLuxe Materials' Glue 'n' Glaze.

 

Frosted kitchen windows were done as usual by sticking opaque sellotape over the back of the relevant glazing panels.  Curtains are from the sticky-backed parts of coloured post-it notes.

 

I've used superglue in the past to stick the sides on, but inevitably always got a bit on paintwork or glazing so this time I used contact adhesive.  The local B & Q was out of Evo-Stik so I used the Gorilla version.  It's good, in that it's clear and comes off paintwork and glazing with a bit of IPA (no, not that sort).

 

Having now done a number of brass sides on plastic bodies conversions I find the hardest part is getting a good fit under the cantrail.  Though thin, the brass sides do add a bit of thickness and it's easy (for me anyway) to lose the cantrail altogether, necessitating the addition of a false one in some cases.  I reckon I've just about escaped that on this occasion but I think in future I'd probably remove even more of the plastic carcass first,  as recommended by @St Enodocof this parish.

 

John C.

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Happy New Year John aka @checkrail this carriage looks fabulous.

 

Im at the early stages of RTR conversion using the Comet sides. What is the thinking behind making up the sides and getting them completed before being attached to the carriage. I’m doing it the other way round, am I making a mistake by doing it this way round?

 

Thanks, Neal.

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4 hours ago, Nick Gough said:

Are the tables solid blocks or do they have a cloth over them?

They're solid blocks Nick.  In fact the interior is the original Hornby moulding.  All I've done to it (some years ago when I first put the un-rebuilt H33 into service) is paint the first class seats blue and the table tops white to represent tablecloths.  With this new conversion I've had to add a bit more white to the tables at the sides - I hadn't realised until I started putting the coach back together that the lower coach waist and larger windows would expose the tables so much.  

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4 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

What is the thinking behind making up the sides and getting them completed before being attached to the carriage. I’m doing it the other way round, am I making a mistake by doing it this way round?

I don't think you're necessarily making any mistake Neal.  My  somewhat idiosyncratic way of doing things was partly inspired by the old PC kits with ready-printed sides but the clincher was probably the difficulty of glazing the already attached sides without making a sticky mess.  Also means I don't have to keep masking other parts of the coach when painting the sides.  And it's easier this way to avoid any glazing material blocking the back of holes drilled for door and grab handles.

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9 hours ago, checkrail said:

I don't think you're necessarily making any mistake Neal.  My  somewhat idiosyncratic way of doing things was partly inspired by the old PC kits with ready-printed sides but the clincher was probably the difficulty of glazing the already attached sides without making a sticky mess.  Also means I don't have to keep masking other parts of the coach when painting the sides.  And it's easier this way to avoid any glazing material blocking the back of holes drilled for door and grab handles.


Thanks very much John, I will try that with the H57 then and see how I get on.

 

If nothing else it will be interesting to compare it to the other carriages I am working on at the moment.

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9 hours ago, checkrail said:

They're solid blocks Nick.  In fact the interior is the original Hornby moulding.  All I've done to it (some years ago when I first put the un-rebuilt H33 into service) is paint the first class seats blue and the table tops white to represent tablecloths.  With this new conversion I've had to add a bit more white to the tables at the sides - I hadn't realised until I started putting the coach back together that the lower coach waist and larger windows would expose the tables so much.  

 

Thanks.

I had forgotten that you were converting this from an earlier version of the H33.

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4 hours ago, checkrail said:

And here's Launceston Castle coming through the down platform at Stoke C.  I quite like this angle looking across the station.

Y5.jpg.195337b3275fef6ea3205f1aabc07dfb.jpg

John C.

Beautiful modelling … I recently looked at the BRM video on your layout and reconfirmed what a wonderful layout this is. Congratulations,  Andy R

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Many thanks for kind words Andy.  I'd almost forgotten about the video.  Andy Y. sprang it on me without warning at the end of his photo shoot.  But it was fun, and nice afterwards to see my trains set to music!

 

John C.

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2 hours ago, checkrail said:

Another day, and we see 5000 Launceston Castle on another duty, heading west with the reconstituted Wolverhampton - Penzance express ....... 

Did you use hot or cold water and how long did you have to leave them to soak?  Asking for a friend!

 

Roja

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