Jinty's WB for 7mm

[Jon Fitness]

Don't be silly Jon, I'll accept criticism as well as praise, I'd be an @rse not to!!!!

And I do appreciate your input.

 

The van will be in Olive with a few replaced planks, so I can be liberal with the weathering and hopefully they won't seem too prominent.

 

Jinty

 

PS: I like the centre roof bar arrangement on yours (Might nick that idea!!)

 Nick away!..I did it to make fitting the roof a bit easier, and anything that helps to keep the body shape is a good thing!

Cheers

JF

[PjKing1]

Hi Paul,

 

Testors Dullcote is getting a bit thin on the ground, but there are a few games workshops, etc still got stock. here's one:

http://www.greatescapegames.co.uk/painting-modelling-1/spray-varnish/testors-dullcote.html

I've just purchased another two @ £5 each but the postage is £6.60 via courier!

 

Yes it is an aerosol, very good too, but does have a bit of a smell as it's an enamel.

 

Jinty

Thanks Jinty and does it look ok when sealing weathering?

[Jintyman]

Thanks Jinty and does it look ok when sealing weathering?

 

 

Yes it does, it will reduce the weathering effect a little, as will most varnishes (not sure if it's the spray blowing some off!!!) and it takes about 45 mins to dry.

 

Jinty

[Mike Bellamy]

 

Testors Dullcote is getting a bit thin on the ground, but there are a few games workshops, etc still got stock. here's one:

http://www.greatescapegames.co.uk/painting-modelling-1/spray-varnish/testors-dullcote.html

I've just purchased another two @ £5 each but the postage is £6.60 via courier!

 

 

 

Another stockist is Paul Martin at EDM Models - when available he was selling a 3 pack for £13.50 but with all imports from the States, the dollar rate is forcing prices up. I understand that it is shipped by container to the importers Ripmax but to keep costs down it is sent along with all sorts of other stuff so that the shipping company have to wait until they get enough goods for the UK to fill the container then it takes a while for unloading and distribution - as a result it is sometimes unobtainable from Ripmax until the next load arrives.

 

Details part way down this page (along with other useful stuff . . . . . . .

http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Glues/gluestools.html#Potions

 

.

[Tove]

Yes it does, it will reduce the weathering effect a little, as will most varnishes (not sure if it's the spray blowing some off!!!) and it takes about 45 mins to dry.

 

Jinty

And it really,does stink!...but well worth it..

 

Brian.

[John R Smith]

How about Winsor & Newton Professional Matt Varnish 400ml aerosol from your local art shop, at £13.50 per can?

 

I use this a lot, and it seems fine to me . . .

 

John

[N15class]

I use art shop acrylic varnish. I find it very good no yellowing like enamel or polyurethane.  

[Jintyman]

How about Winsor & Newton Professional Matt Varnish 400ml aerosol from your local art shop, at £13.50 per can?

 

I use this a lot, and it seems fine to me . . .

 

John

 

I use art shop acrylic varnish. I find it very good no yellowing like enamel or polyurethane.  

 

 

I just don't do acrylic at all.

Not used the Windsor & Newton varnish.

I find the Testors Dullcote very kind to transfers of all descriptions, not only that, once the weathering powders and liquids have been applied I generally start spraying enamel mixed 30/70 with cellulose thinners as a very weak weathering coat, built into certain areas, then over the top again with the Testors Dullcote to seal it all in.

If I used acrylics, I wouldn't be able to follow my normal path with weathering.

 

Jinty

[PjKing1]

I ordered mine today but I'm not a lover of canned paint to be fare, I've read on rmweb years ago on an other thread though that it's best sitting aerosols in warm/hot water for ten minutes before use as it gives a finer spray.

 

Cheers

[N15class]

I just don't do acrylic at all.

Not used the Windsor & Newton varnish.

I find the Testors Dullcote very kind to transfers of all descriptions, not only that, once the weathering powders and liquids have been applied I generally start spraying enamel mixed 30/70 with cellulose thinners as a very weak weathering coat, built into certain areas, then over the top again with the Testors Dullcote to seal it all in.

If I used acrylics, I wouldn't be able to follow my normal path with weathering.

 

Jinty

I do not like acrylic paints either. But getting good paint here is difficult so had to try something else. For the colours I always cellulose or enamel.

[Jintyman]

I do not like acrylic paints either. But getting good paint here is difficult so had to try something else. For the colours I always cellulose or enamel.

 

Sorry Peter, just realized your location.

Sometimes I think we take for granted that what is available readily here is the same for everywhere else!!!

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

I ordered mine today but I'm not a lover of canned paint to be fare, I've read on rmweb years ago on an other thread though that it's best sitting aerosols in warm/hot water for ten minutes before use as it gives a finer spray.

 

Cheers

 

 

Yes it does help, coupled with a good shake and having the subject at room temp as well!!!

 

Jinty

[Guest Isambarduk]

"And without plating each one behind ..."

 

Which would be the right and proper thing to do, and I do think it would have been well worth the extra work, given the care that you have put into the rest of the model.   David

[N15class]

Sorry Peter, just realized your location.

Sometimes I think we take for granted that what is available readily here is the same for everywhere else!!!

 

Jinty

No problem. It is easy to forget that on one thread you can be talking to people from the USA, Brazil, Denmark, Australia, and many other countries.  It is the benefit and downfall of the internet. The globe has been reduced in size.

[Jintyman]

A nice relaxing Sunday in the garage today. Had a visit froim Craig who left me a lovely present for my Signal Box, Thanks Craig!!!

Another question from someone, prompted me to get my 37 out of its box and start stripping. More of that a bit later.

 

I stripped the GUV's down and sprayed them with Testors ready for weathering, here's one of the bodies showing the numbering from Railtec.

 

 

 

The next was to apply the identification to this little chap, who's having a twin speaker sound system installed and a good weathering. Again Railtec transfers fitted and I'm pleased as always.

 

 

Now back to the class 37 for the chassis strip.

 

The 37 was got out of its box and then I stripped the bogies out, the PCB off and removed the fuel tanks.

I saw that there was plenty of available room in the fuel tanks, so after a bit of butchering and fettling, I've managed to fit a rather brutish speaker of 100mm x 38mm and 8ohm 5w within the fuel tank space. You can see in the photo that I've opened up the whole bottom and fitted brass angle to lift the speaker so that the gap between the tanks still exists. The speaker will sit on the brass angle and be stuck to this with thin sponge double sided tape, the ends will be closed off with some self adhesive draught excluder.

 

 

 

And this view that shows that the speaker hardly encroaches inside the chassis!!!

 

 

 

Hopefully the speaker should perform well in this position, but I'll have to get a decoder for it now to find out!!!!!

 

 

 

QUESTION:  Does anyone have any instructions for the Pete Harvey etch as to where the new bufferbeam should be set, etc, or is there a topic on here that describes the fitting of the etch? Any information gratefully received.

 

 

Jinty

[Andrew P]

A nice relaxing Sunday in the garage today. Had a visit froim Craig who left me a lovely present for my Signal Box, Thanks Craig!!!

Another question from someone, prompted me to get my 37 out of its box and start stripping. More of that a bit later.

 

I stripped the GUV's down and sprayed them with Testors ready for weathering, here's one of the bodies showing the numbering from Railtec.

 

WB 050.jpg

 

 

The next was to apply the identification to this little chap, who's having a twin speaker sound system installed and a good weathering. Again Railtec transfers fitted and I'm pleased as always.

 

WB 051.jpg

 

Now back to the class 37 for the chassis strip.

 

The 37 was got out of its box and then I stripped the bogies out, the PCB off and removed the fuel tanks.

I saw that there was plenty of available room in the fuel tanks, so after a bit of butchering and fettling, I've managed to fit a rather brutish speaker of 100mm x 38mm and 8ohm 5w within the fuel tank space. You can see in the photo that I've opened up the whole bottom and fitted brass angle to lift the speaker so that the gap between the tanks still exists. The speaker will sit on the brass angle and be stuck to this with thin sponge double sided tape, the ends will be closed off with some self adhesive draught excluder.

 

WB 052.jpg

 

 

And this view that shows that the speaker hardly encroaches inside the chassis!!!

 

WB 053.jpg

 

 

Hopefully the speaker should perform well in this position, but I'll have to get a decoder for it now to find out!!!!!

 

 

 

QUESTION:  Does anyone have any instructions for the Pete Harvey etch as to where the new bufferbeam should be set, etc, or is there a topic on here that describes the fitting of the etch? Any information gratefully received.

 

 

Jinty

Wow Jints, that speaker is awesome, it should sound quite good mate.

[PjKing1]

Looking good Jinty and lime Andy says that speaker looks rather impressive although the words butchering and £400+ loco are not two words I'll ever string together hence why I'm paying you a visit every time I fit a decoder

 

Great work as always David are you using Biffos 37 sound?

 

Cheers

[muddys-blues]

Nice meet up again Jinty, sorry I forgot I think I have a PH email link for the etches, I will look through my emails.

 

Enjoy the the little something, many thanks

 

Best regards

Craig

[North Eastern]

A nice relaxing Sunday in the garage today. Had a visit froim Craig who left me a lovely present for my Signal Box, Thanks Craig!!!

Another question from someone, prompted me to get my 37 out of its box and start stripping. More of that a bit later.

 

I stripped the GUV's down and sprayed them with Testors ready for weathering, here's one of the bodies showing the numbering from Railtec.

 

WB 050.jpg

 

 

The next was to apply the identification to this little chap, who's having a twin speaker sound system installed and a good weathering. Again Railtec transfers fitted and I'm pleased as always.

 

WB 051.jpg

 

Now back to the class 37 for the chassis strip.

 

The 37 was got out of its box and then I stripped the bogies out, the PCB off and removed the fuel tanks.

I saw that there was plenty of available room in the fuel tanks, so after a bit of butchering and fettling, I've managed to fit a rather brutish speaker of 100mm x 38mm and 8ohm 5w within the fuel tank space. You can see in the photo that I've opened up the whole bottom and fitted brass angle to lift the speaker so that the gap between the tanks still exists. The speaker will sit on the brass angle and be stuck to this with thin sponge double sided tape, the ends will be closed off with some self adhesive draught excluder.

 

WB 052.jpg

 

 

And this view that shows that the speaker hardly encroaches inside the chassis!!!

 

WB 053.jpg

 

 

Hopefully the speaker should perform well in this position, but I'll have to get a decoder for it now to find out!!!!!

 

 

 

QUESTION:  Does anyone have any instructions for the Pete Harvey etch as to where the new bufferbeam should be set, etc, or is there a topic on here that describes the fitting of the etch? Any information gratefully received.

 

 

Jinty

Hi David,

               For the 37 buffer beam ask Lee Edmondson (Blue Eighties on here) he has his own thread on here and he probably has photo's of it on there. If not I'm sure he'll advise you how to do it.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64736-my-detailingrepainting-projects/

 

Regards

 

Chris

[Jintyman]

Hi David,

For the 37 buffer beam ask Lee Edmondson (Blue Eighties on here) he has his own thread on here and he probably has photo's of it on there. If not I'm sure he'll advise you how to do it.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64736-my-detailingrepainting-projects/

 

Regards

 

Chris

Thanks Chris, I'll have a look on that thread if I can't find anything I'll PM him

 

Jinty

[Marcus 37]

Hi Jinty

How did you manage to sneak that tractor in under the radar without me noticing. A fine addition to the fleet. Can't wait to hear the output of that new speaker. Should sound awesome.

Cheers

Marcus

[Jintyman]

Hi Jinty

How did you manage to sneak that tractor in under the radar without me noticing. A fine addition to the fleet. Can't wait to hear the output of that new speaker. Should sound awesome.

Cheers

Marcus

 

Ahh there be a few things 'Under the Radar' Marcus.................................................  

 

Hopefully the conversion will make the difference.

I think I'll have to make the boiler blanking plates myself from some sheet, and trying to get hold of Shawplan  for the high intensity headlight covers and roof fan and grille seems neigh on impossible at the moment!!!!! Hope everything's ok as their stuff is excellent.

 

Jinty

[Marcus 37]

That should look excellent with the new buffer beams added although I don't envy you chopping the skirts off. A bit of precision cutting needed there. I shall look forward to seeing the finished result.

[MarshLane]

Ahh there be a few things 'Under the Radar' Marcus.................................................  

 

Hopefully the conversion will make the difference.

I think I'll have to make the boiler blanking plates myself from some sheet, and trying to get hold of Shawplan  for the high intensity headlight covers and roof fan and grille seems neigh on impossible at the moment!!!!! Hope everything's ok as their stuff is excellent.

 

Jinty

 

 

Hi Jinty,

I've been speak to Pete Harvey about high-intensity headlights that are suitable for operation, and he's got some if that helps .. I'm sure Pete won't mind me quoting from his email "cast in resin I have designed them so you would just need to cut a square hole in the nose of your model and then glue them in place, then fit the Led from the rear. "  Priced at £8.50 + £1.50 p&p for a pair.

 

Rich

[Jintyman]

Hi Jinty,

I've been speak to Pete Harvey about high-intensity headlights that are suitable for operation, and he's got some if that helps .. I'm sure Pete won't mind me quoting from his email "cast in resin I have designed them so you would just need to cut a square hole in the nose of your model and then glue them in place, then fit the Led from the rear. "  Priced at £8.50 + £1.50 p&p for a pair.

 

Rich

 

Thanks Rich,

 

I'll see what comes in the JLTRT Diesel detailing pack, but if there isn't any in there, there is always these people, whitemetal castings, £2.00 a pair  (CODE: GEN-004)  Will just need drilling through for the LED.          http://www.prmrp.com/fittings--all-other-accessories.html

 

Will just need drilling through for the LED. There's quite a few other interesting components available as well.

I quite fancy their OTA kit, looks fabulous in brass, but then there is that VIX Ferry Van that PH offers which looks divine!!! 

 

Jinty