Jinty's WB for 7mm

[Focalplane]

David

 

Didn't know whether to say Like, Agree or Craftsmanship!  So a quick comment.  I built one earlier this ear and it was very satisfying.  I have yet to finish painting mine due to my outdoor paint booth being temperamental!

 

I just finished the GWR 20 ton TOAD, even better in some ways, perhaps because I had leaned more of Jim's way of doing things?  Again, it is in queue for the spray booth.

 

Surprising that Jim doesn't provide vacuum pipes, but his white metal ones are too vulnerable anyway.

 

Shiny brass looks good out in Nature!

 

Paul

[Simond]

If you fit the right decoder, you could operate a servo, and make the brakes work!

 

Sorry, coat, hat, etc...

[Jintyman]

David

 

Didn't know whether to say Like, Agree or Craftsmanship!  So a quick comment.  I built one earlier this ear and it was very satisfying.  I have yet to finish painting mine due to my outdoor paint booth being temperamental!

 

I just finished the GWR 20 ton TOAD, even better in some ways, perhaps because I had leaned more of Jim's way of doing things?  Again, it is in queue for the spray booth.

 

Surprising that Jim doesn't provide vacuum pipes, but his white metal ones are too vulnerable anyway.

 

Shiny brass looks good out in Nature!

 

Paul

 

 

Thanks Paul,

I built his 'TOAD' kit last year (or was it the year before?) and that too went together very well just as this did. I made a small alteration to mine by sawing one of the veranda doors into the open position.

 

 

 

If you fit the right decoder, you could operate a servo, and make the brakes work!

 

Sorry, coat, hat, etc...

 

 

Simon, you've been on those bottled thingamyjigs haven't you?

 

 

 

 

Lovely work on that ,by what you've told me and what you've said here the rsu will be invaluable tool

Think I'll have to pick up some of the Jim mc gowen kits

 

Brian

 

 

Thanks Brian,

The Jim McGowan kits are superb and go together with ease. They are slot and tab  and need the minimum fettling, although I agree with Paul that the whitemetal castings for the vac pipes are good but fragile, hence the cast brass alternatives.

 

Jinty

[coachmann]

A Toad with brakes would be damned handy when using Kadee couplings. Many's the time I have backed a train onto the brake only to find the dam thing backs off as if it was too shy to couple up! Both my brake vans now have a lump of rubber bearing on an axle.

Edited October 16, 2017 by coachmann

[Focalplane]

Comparing the two Connoisseur brake vans I have put together this year, the BR 20 ton had vacuum pipes in the kit, the TOAD did not.  I have some Laurie Griffin pipes so they will be used.  I managed to spray some bauxite on the BR 20 ton today, no "Atlantic" wind so the spray booth was working well.

[Jintyman]

Well I got off work a couple of hours early today as I'm playing Alan Wicker tomorrow and Thursday, so I thought I'd get on with the 20t brake van.

 

I'd sprayed Etch Primer last night, so it was on with the Satin Black, and then mask off and then on with the Bauxite.

Let it all dry off for a couple of hours whilst I played with the lighting circuits on a Heljan 37, then back to the brake van, painting the handrails white, and then applying the transfers.

Then I fitted two tail lamps and fed the wires through to the inside of the van, the lamp on the veranda end having the wires disguised by some woodwork. The woodwork in question being the brake van parts from Poppy's Wood Tech, I cut them down to suit, then glued them into the ends of the veranda to both hide the wires and give some relief. I will stain the wood and also paint the floor of the veranda a nice wood colour.

There will not be any illumination inside the van itself, just the decoder and relevant wiring.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of progress.

 

 

 

 

 

Next is to finish the roof and then to glaze it. 

Once that's done, I will set about it with the weathering materials, as a well used van!

 

Jinty

[3 link]

Hi David,

 

I look forward to any updates regarding the lighting of the brake van, and I will store them away for reference as I intend to also go down this route in the future although I've got enough on my plate at the moment.

 

I have a spare 2 channel chip, would that be enough to control directional lights and lighting in the van? This is still a grey area for me so any info would be helpful for the future.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[Simond]

Martyn

 

Yes

 

Best

Simon

[3 link]

Martyn

Yes

Best

Simon

That sounds good enough to me : )

 

Martyn.

[pauliebanger]

Hi David,

 

I look forward to any updates regarding the lighting of the brake van, and I will store them away for reference as I intend to also go down this route in the future although I've got enough on my plate at the moment.

 

I have a spare 2 channel chip, would that be enough to control directional lights and lighting in the van? This is still a grey area for me so any info would be helpful for the future.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

Martyn,

 

I don't think so, but it depends what you intend to do or however comprehensive you wish to make the lighting.

 

One rear lamp and an interior lamp requires 2 Function Outputs.

 

A rear lamp at each end changed directionally plus interior lamp 3 FOs

 

A lamp at each end containing a white and a red LED changed directionally but showing the correct colour and only at the 'free end' depending upon the direction of travel plus an interior lamp, 5 FOs (What colour should be shown if the brake van is the first vehicle in a propelled train?).

 

A lamp at each end containing a white and a red LED changed directionally but showing the correct colour and only at the 'free end' depending upon the direction of travel plus an interior lamp and a glow in the stove, 6 FOs.

 

A lamp at each end containing a white and a red LED changed directionally but showing the correct colour and only at the 'free end' depending upon the direction of travel plus an interior lamp and a glow in the stove which is fitted with a smoke unit, 7 FOs. At this point if you only wish to use one decoder without add-ons or adapters, then you will need a ZIMO as they have 10 FOs available, (sound or non-sound).

 

All the above, plus guard's animated arm (one servo output) waiving a lamp to direct a propelled train, 9 FOs

 

That's one of the problems of 7mm scale -  not only can you envisage it, you can actually carry it off fairly easily. LOL.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Jintyman]

My Brake van will be just a red lamp at each end, directionally controlled with a Zimo function only decoder.

I will use the blue wires (+ with resistor) to each LED and then the yellow to the front light  (-) and white to the rear light (-).

Thus once the decoder is addressed, I will just have to select the address and then press F0 to illuminate the red LED at whichever end is required simply by pressing the direction button.

 

One thing I did forget to ask Paul was if a Stay Alive can be used with my particular function only decoder, and to what capacity?

 

Jinty

[Simond]

Martyn

 

Paul’s probably right, as I made an assumption that it was “two plus directional”.

 

However, you can use a 2 function decoder by having an interior lamp wired to each tail lamp. This gives you the options of no lights, interior & tail at either end, or tail at both ends and ridiculously bright interior. You probably won’t find much use for the last option! And you probably don’t care about the light being on inside the van if it’s light outside, as you won’t notice it. My coach lights are permanently lit on the same basis.

 

The extra interior bulb/LED is cheaper than a 3-function decoder, particularly as you already have the two function one. Now what was I saying about being tight?

 

Best

Simon

[pauliebanger]

 Now what was I saying about being tight?

 

Best

Simon

 

I haven't even got around to listing the sounds that could be added with a sound decoder, yet. LOL

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Jintyman]

After a fraught couple of days with a pretty large mileage under my belt, I finally got around to editing my latest video, which again features a Heljan class 37 and the Pick-up goods. A few more tweaks have been added to the video as I get my head around this video software slowly.

 

Hope you enjoy it:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jinty

[coachmann]

The Class 37 sound like a class 37, but the horn is a bit shallow and not very convincing.  This seems usual with Diesels whereas steam files often capture a convincing whistle but not always a convincing exhaust.

 

You look to be handling the editing suite alright. I was more at home with an expensive JVC video editing deck back in the days before digital took over, but the current editing programs I have seen advertised look pretty frightening!

[Dmudriver]

Great video, Jinty. 

 

Love that sound, too.  I'll do one of my 37 (SWD sound on Loksound chip) to compare!!  Are there any playable horn sounds, or is it just double tone on one function and single on the other?  Unfortunately SWD have random horn sounds on F2 and F3 which I don't like at all.

 

Just one point on operation (I hope you don't mind):  I've never driven a diesel loco but when I drove DMUs we never had the cab light on in the cab from which we were driving.  During the day it's unnecessary but at night you can't see a b****y thing outside!!! - which was why DMUs had blinds behind the driver's and second man's seats (and on the door, too) for when the saloon lights were on.  It's not just on your video, I've seen it on others, too.  In the back cab, yes. but in the front only when stopped.

 

Keep the vids coming.

 

Rod

Edited October 20, 2017 by Dmudriver

[Jintyman]

Great video, Jinty. 

 

Love that sound, too.  I'll do one of my 37 (SWD sound on Loksound chip) to compare!!  Are there any playable horn sounds, or is it just double tone on one function and single on the other?  Unfortunately SWD have random horn sounds on F2 and F3 which I don't like at all.

 

Just one point on operation (I hope you don't mind):  I've never driven a diesel loco but when I drove DMUs we never had the cab light on in the cab from which we were driving.  During the day it's unnecessary but at night you can't see a b****y thing outside!!! - which was why DMUs had blinds behind the driver's and second man's seats (and on the door, too) for when the saloon lights were on.  It's not just on your video, I've seen it on others, too.  In the back cab, yes. but in the front only when stopped.

 

Keep the vids coming.

 

Rod

 

 

Thanks Rod,

 

I don't mind at all about your comments, they are all welcome, as a lot of people will know better than me anyway.

 

I was only using the lights in the cab to show the directionality of the cab lighting. The cab lighting can be extinguished with F20. I should of shown it being extinguished and switched on more though.

There is an alternative long single high horn on F11 but I didn't get around to using it.

I do believe that the horn can be increased in volume via CV 520 (F3), CV 523 (F4) and CV 544 (F11).

There are lots of other sounds on the sound project that I never covered, the video was more to check the lighting circuits were working correctly.

 

Thanks again for your comments

 

Jinty

[Andrew P]

The Class 37 sound like a class 37, but the horn is a bit shallow and not very convincing.  This seems usual with Diesels whereas steam files often capture a convincing whistle but not always a convincing exhaust.

 

You look to be handling the editing suite alright. I was more at home with an expensive JVC video editing deck back in the days before digital took over, but the current editing programs I have seen advertised look pretty frightening!

I had a couple of my Leggoman Cl 47's re blown by SWD as the horn sounded more like a distressed Moggie than a 47, my 33 is the same very weak horn but a good sound from the Engine. 

 

I have a 37 and 40 SWD to fit so will do some vids for Kings Moreton as a comparison.

Edited October 21, 2017 by Andrew P

[pauliebanger]

This advice referes to ZIMO sound projects specifically.

 

If a particular sound, let's say the horn, does not stand out sufficiently from the other sounds, especially the engine, there are several things that end users can do to redress the balance. (Literally)

 

The individual sound(s) can be turned up to full volume with the requisite CVs or by using ZIMO's unique CV300 pseudo programming technique.

 

Normally, this will not have much impact as the horn is almost always at maximum volume within the mix to start with.

 

So, in order to raise the horn volume relative to the engine sounds here's another suggestion.

 

Reduce the engine volume so thaty it is 'quieter' within the mix, then increase the overall volume to compensate. The effect will be to raise the horn volume (and all sounds other than engine*) by more than the engine sound volume increase.

 

*this will require some rebalancing of other sound volume levels to match your own requirements.

 

Now, reducing engine sounds can be achieved with a series of individual CVs. This is great if you know what you are doing but can (and will) create anomalies and strange effects if you get it wrong.

 

Fortunately, ZIMO provide a single CV to reduce the 'engine' sounds only, but each of the engine sounds are automatically adjusted by the same amount, so retaining the original balance within te engine sounds, but at lower volume levels.

 

This is a very convenient way of reducing engine sound levels which could easily be used to simulate the same loco in light engine or heavy train mode.

 

In summary,

 

To increase the horn sound, first ensure it is turned up to the maximum.

If that does not satisfy your needs, reduce engine sounds with CV376 (range 1 - 255, higher numbers give louder sound)

Then adjust overall sound to suit (either CV266 or use F27 and F28, live volume control).

Adjust any other sounds individually to produce a pleasing aural experience for you.

 

There are lots of ways for end users to customise ZIMO sound projects to suit personal tastes, the envronment and speaker installation deployed.

 

If there are things about your projects you would like to change, you may well be able to do so. Don't feel that you're stuck with what you have and the only way to improve is to get a re-blow (that may still be the only way in in some cases). Experiment, get to know what's possible, maybe even read the decoder manual (OK, perhaps that's going a bit too far, LOL). You will not break the decoder, nor lose the sounds. If it all goes badly wrong, CV8 = 8 will restore everything back to how it was when the project was loaded to the decoder.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Andrew P]

This advice referes to ZIMO sound projects specifically.

 

If a particular sound, let's say the horn, does not stand out sufficiently from the other sounds, especially the engine, there are several things that end users can do to redress the balance. (Literally)

 

The individual sound(s) can be turned up to full volume with the requisite CVs or by using ZIMO's unique CV300 pseudo programming technique.

 

Normally, this will not have much impact as the horn is almost always at maximum volume within the mix to start with.

 

So, in order to raise the horn volume relative to the engine sounds here's another suggestion.

 

Reduce the engine volume so thaty it is 'quieter' within the mix, then increase the overall volume to compensate. The effect will be to raise the horn volume (and all sounds other than engine*) by more than the engine sound volume increase.

 

*this will require some rebalancing of other sound volume levels to match your own requirements.

 

Now, reducing engine sounds can be achieved with a series of individual CVs. This is great if you know what you are doing but can (and will) create anomalies and strange effects if you get it wrong.

 

Fortunately, ZIMO provide a single CV to reduce the 'engine' sounds only, but each of the engine sounds are automatically adjusted by the same amount, so retaining the original balance within te engine sounds, but at lower volume levels.

 

This is a very convenient way of reducing engine sound levels which could easily be used to simulate the same loco in light engine or heavy train mode.

 

In summary,

 

To increase the horn sound, first ensure it is turned up to the maximum.

If that does not satisfy your needs, reduce engine sounds with CV376 (range 1 - 255, higher numbers give louder sound)

Then adjust overall sound to suit (either CV266 or use F27 and F28, live volume control).

Adjust any other sounds individually to produce a pleasing aural experience for you.

 

There are lots of ways for end users to customise ZIMO sound projects to suit personal tastes, the envronment and speaker installation deployed.

 

If there are things about your projects you would like to change, you may well be able to do so. Don't feel that you're stuck with what you have and the only way to improve is to get a re-blow (that may still be the only way in in some cases). Experiment, get to know what's possible, maybe even read the decoder manual (OK, perhaps that's going a bit too far, LOL). You will not break the decoder, nor lose the sounds. If it all goes badly wrong, CV8 = 8 will restore everything back to how it was when the project was loaded to the decoder.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

Great info Paul, my Horn problem was not so much the Volume, (it's an ESU Chip) but the fact that it seemed to go; Meeeee ooowwwww, rather than Daaa Daaa / Doo Daaaaa. sorry for the wild explanations.

[pauliebanger]

Great video, Jinty. 

 

Love that sound, too.  I'll do one of my 37 (SWD sound on Loksound chip) to compare!!  Are there any playable horn sounds, or is it just double tone on one function and single on the other?  Unfortunately SWD have random horn sounds on F2 and F3 which I don't like at all.

 

Just one point on operation (I hope you don't mind):  I've never driven a diesel loco but when I drove DMUs we never had the cab light on in the cab from which we were driving.  During the day it's unnecessary but at night you can't see a b****y thing outside!!! - which was why DMUs had blinds behind the driver's and second man's seats (and on the door, too) for when the saloon lights were on.  It's not just on your video, I've seen it on others, too.  In the back cab, yes. but in the front only when stopped.

 

Keep the vids coming.

 

Rod

 

Rod,

 

In that Class 37 project (and many of my diesel projects) the horns are playable.

The single High tone (F3) and Low tone (F11) horns are each 'playable'; that is, the duration is governed by the the time the respective F keys are engaged. Best used with 'momentary' buttons where possible (depends on the DCC controller's abilities) each can produce a toot or a long blast, but always under your control. Not sure I would fancy getting a random long horn blast in a station when all I intended was an acknowledgement toot -  seems like a gimmick too far.

 

(BTW, quirky or 'gimmicky' features are OK - I include them sometimes - provided that the user has full control over them; usually the option to not use them).

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[coachmann]

Great info Paul, my Horn problem was not so much the Volume, (it's an ESU Chip) but the fact that it seemed to go; Meeeee ooowwwww, rather than Daaa Daaa / Doo Daaaaa. sorry for the wild explanations.

Doo Daaaaa always come to mind when I think of diesels....  

Edited October 21, 2017 by coachmann

[pauliebanger]

Great info Paul, my Horn problem was not so much the Volume, (it's an ESU Chip) but the fact that it seemed to go; Meeeee ooowwwww, rather than Daaa Daaa / Doo Daaaaa. sorry for the wild explanations.

 

Hi Andy,

 

That's one case where a re-blow is probably the best course.

 

Of course, this might have been a case where the sound project creator was torn between delivering authenticity (the real recorded loco may have had a poor sounding horn) and delivering a more pleasing or expected sound.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[two tone green]

 

How old is the sound for your 37 Rod. The new version is very good.

 

https://youtu.be/cl2SRRlJwys

 

 

Great video, Jinty.

 

Love that sound, too. I'll do one of my 37 (SWD sound on Loksound chip) to compare!! Are there any playable horn sounds, or is it just double tone on one function and single on the other? Unfortunately SWD have random horn sounds on F2 and F3 which I don't like at all.

 

Just one point on operation (I hope you don't mind): I've never driven a diesel loco but when I drove DMUs we never had the cab light on in the cab from which we were driving. During the day it's unnecessary but at night you can't see a b****y thing outside!!! - which was why DMUs had blinds behind the driver's and second man's seats (and on the door, too) for when the saloon lights were on. It's not just on your video, I've seen it on others, too. In the back cab, yes. but in the front only when stopped.

 

Keep the vids coming.

 

Rod

[MarshLane]

After a fraught couple of days with a pretty large mileage under my belt, I finally got around to editing my latest video, which again features a Heljan class 37 and the Pick-up goods. A few more tweaks have been added to the video as I get my head around this video software slowly.

 

Hope you enjoy it:

 

 

 

Jinty

 

 

Hi Jinty,

Nice video Pleased to see trains moving on Tallylyn!  I do keep checking in, but quietly in the background as and when work time allows, been hectic just lately, but things are starting to settle a bit more now. Really am of the conclusion that the Zimo chips (preferably with Paul's sound) really are the best about at the moment, they seem so much more refined and responsive than the Loksound ones.

 

A couple of points, I'll openly admit I'm being very nit-picky here, so feel free to ignore me!  But when the loco rounds round, wouldn't the shunt signal to give him permission (which I presume isn't in yet) be positioned a bit further beyond the slip - possibly after the crossover?  Just a thought..

 

Oh and can you arrange for the Home Depot for that driver to be issued with a Form 1, please explain.  He's still passing that Home signal at danger!

 

Love the weathering on the 37 tho, looks very good.  Well done fella.

 

Rich

 

EDIT: PS - How can this be Jinty's videos with a backdrop on the title board of a GW Pannier!  Mr Fowler would be turning in his grave would he not???

Edited October 21, 2017 by MarshLane