gobbler Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 What are the wheel centres of a pug? I'm after an 0-4-0 with 32mm wheel centres, are there any rtr locos with that wheel spacing?? Thanks in advance for any help. Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) What are the wheel centres of a pug? I'm after an 0-4-0 with 32mm wheel centres, are there any rtr locos with that wheel spacing?? Thanks in advance for any help. Scott I can't find my calipers at the moment, but measuring with a rule would suggest a tad under 33 mm. I'm afraid I'm no authority on oo gauge rtr. I normally model in N gauge, I put this little beast together as I enjoy a good kit bash and Corbs was kind enough to show another loco of mine earlier in this thread. I also have an inkling that it might fetch up in a cake box. In my world of bodgery one mm would be 'close enough for government work', but it obviously depends on what you are trying to fit you chassis into. I should point out that this is the Caledonian pug chassis (aka Smokey Joe). The LMS pug has a much shorter wheelbase of about 25 mm Edited April 3, 2018 by Dickon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Thanks Dickon, I take it your referring to the picture on the previous page Cheers Edited April 3, 2018 by gobbler 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Thanks Dickon, I take it your referring to the picture on the previous page Cheers No, I was referring to a conversion of Hornby's limited edition Taff Vale E class to something a bit closer to the prototype. They had based their model on an Electrotren model of a Spanish 0-6-0 ST, the prototype of which was built by the same (British) firm as the Spanish Ioco which was fairly similar but differed in any number of details. See post 238 on this thread or post 52 on the thread 'Ontracks Taff Vale & GWR 0-6-0 Locomotives. Edited April 3, 2018 by Dickon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) My plan is to build an F4/F5 2-4-2. It's the driving wheels I'm after, they have 8ft centres (32mm). Scott Edited April 3, 2018 by gobbler 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 My plan is to build an F4/F5 2-4-2. It's the driving wheels I'm after, they have 8ft centres (32mm). IMG_8503.JPG Scott I guess that depends on whether you can live with that 1 mm difference or someone is able to suggest another chassis that's more suitable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 ...that’s really rather good. If I might make a couple of suggestions - - Representative connecting rod and valvegear, which I always think look very “traction engine” - prominent well Tank below the footplate, painted to match the boiler and side panels - a difficult one given the overall proportions, but most of these locos seem to have prominent buffer beams (which make you wonder how they ever cleaned the smokebox out) We now have a well tank as Rockershovel suggested. I would have painted it black rather than green, but now it's done he was absolutely right. The rest of the paintwork still needs attention 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
manna Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 What are the wheel centres of a pug? I'm after an 0-4-0 with 32mm wheel centres, are there any rtr locos with that wheel spacing?? Thanks in advance for any help. Scott G'Day foks Tri-Ang Nellie chassis is 33 mm. manna Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) We now have a well tank as Rockershovel suggested. I would have painted it black rather than green, but now it's done he was absolutely right. The rest of the paintwork still needs attentionThat certainly captures the character of these highly idiosyncratic locos! One small suggestion - none of the prototypes have any form of springing, so the spring detailmight be given a touch of black paint? That would be enough, I’m sure, for the eye to skip past them... I do like the indicative connecting-rod, that makes a lot of difference Edited April 4, 2018 by rockershovel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) That certainly captures the character of these highly idiosyncratic locos! One small suggestion - none of the prototypes have any form of springing, so the spring detailmight be given a touch of black paint? That would be enough, I’m sure, for the eye to skip past them... I do like the indicative connecting-rod, that makes a lot of difference Good idea. I had thought of cutting the springs and their supports away, but it would have exposed too much of the mechanism inside. I may be able to file away the springs themselves leaving the flanges behind them upstanding. I have just read that the Cammell Laird shipyard had three Aveling & Porter locos, two of which had winches behind the footplate for hauling hot armour plate out of the foundry. Does anybody know if any photos exist? Edit: grinding the springs away with a Dremel runs a risk of damaging the footplate and the rails above the spring mountings as the springs themselves are slightly recessed. Better to just lose them in weathered paint. This is after all a freelance interpretation of the type, not a precise model of any particular loco. Edited April 4, 2018 by Dickon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Regarding the winches, some of these locomotives have low-level buffer beams which are too low to be buffer beams, but too high to be track guards. Perhaps that was their purpose, as winch mountings? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 We now have a well tank as Rockershovel suggested. I would have painted it black rather than green, but now it's done he was absolutely right. The rest of the paintwork still needs attention Excellent work! I love it... and now I think I want one too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Looks good, have you considered making the flywheel/gearwheel rotate! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 (edited) Looks good, have you considered making the flywheel/gearwheel rotate! I have no doubt that it is feasible and that someone will do it one day. It won't be easy getting a drive to the flywheel shaft as the motor completely fills the width of the firebox. You might be able to mount a tiny motor from the tail rotor of a small r/c helicopter above the main motor with some simple electronics slowing it a suitable speed. Now, there's a challenge for you! Edited April 5, 2018 by Dickon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 (edited) I have no doubt that it is feasible and that someone will do it one day. It won't be easy getting a drive to the flywheel shaft as the motor completely fills the width of the firebox. You might be able to mount a tiny motor from a model helicopter above the main motor with some simple electronics slowing it a suitable speed. Now, there's a challenge for you! Could just gear it to the rear wheels. You'd probably only need a few millimetres to fit the gears in. Edited April 5, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 (edited) Could just gear it to the rear wheels. You'd probably only need a few millimetres to fit the gears in. possibly.......but I'm not doing it! I started this as an amusing experiment as to how far I could take a pug-bash, without people crying foul. I have after all only used the chassis, slide rods and safety valves. It's raised far more interest than I ever expected, which is great, as well as rekindling my interest in model making which was beginning to flag a bit. I'd love to see a sister engine with a rotating flywheel and gears. There must be someone out there who can rise to the challenge. Edited April 5, 2018 by Dickon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 i plan on having one with full moving parts one day and also source a pair of little bevel gears for a working governor 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 i plan on having one with full moving parts one day and also source a pair of little bevel gears for a working governor Good on you sir! I'll watch progress avidly. It's great to see somebody else pick up the challenge as I was beginning to feel that my little beast had been hogging the limelight for rather too long. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Regarding the winches, some of these locomotives have low-level buffer beams which are too low to be buffer beams, but too high to be track guards. Perhaps that was their purpose, as winch mountings? I believe that the lower beam was for shunting lower than standard wagons and tubs in a quarry while the upper beam (usually fitted with buffers) was for moving main line wagons. Can anyone put me right on this? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 i say "one day" but no idea when that could be, next month, next year, 3 years? i'll feel like doing it after sourcing a donor traction engine and the gears 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 We now have a well tank as Rockershovel suggested. I would have painted it black rather than green, but now it's done he was absolutely right. The rest of the paintwork still needs attention It looks very industrial! This would be seen on light railways or shunting yards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) On 06/04/2018 at 00:30, LNWR18901910 said: It looks very industrial! This would be seen on light railways or shunting yards. Yes. Very much an industrial loco. The only one one that I am aware of hauling passenger trains on a regular basis was on the Brill Tramway near Aylesbury. Being very low geared they were very slow, but the high mounted cylinders and valve gear was well clear of abrasive dirt and the drive could be declutched allowing them to drive static machinery when not shunting wagons. Most worked in quarries, but they could also be found in gas works and even in a couple of Scotch whisky distilleries and on a temporary railway supporting dredging operations on the Serpentine in Hyde Park. The Royal Navy has four or five of them in each of the Royal dockyards at Chatham, Portsmouth and Devonport. Most were scrapped long ago but at least three have been preserved in running condition. Edited December 23, 2020 by Dickon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 Could just gear it to the rear wheels. You'd probably only need a few millimetres to fit the gears in. I didn’t raise this subject because it seems to be the point where the model becomes a scratch-building exercise! In practical terms, I’d suggest putting the motor in the cab (some of these locos have curious, enclosed cabs) with a reducing gearbox driving the rear wheels, or a gear train within an appropriately extended side frame. The flywheel could be mounted on a transverse shaft driven from that gearbox, with the gears concealed by the drive cover, or within the gearbox depending on the construction. The connecting rod and motion are concealed by the cab (along the lines of Sirapite or the Chatham locos) so aren’t required. This is quite beyond my skills, but looks like something within the capacity of an advanced builder with experience of chassis construction? I think a 7mm scale one would be very effective! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 I didn’t raise this subject because it seems to be the point where the model becomes a scratch-building exercise! In practical terms, I’d suggest putting the motor in the cab (some of these locos have curious, enclosed cabs) with a reducing gearbox driving the rear wheels, or a gear train within an appropriately extended side frame. The flywheel could be mounted on a transverse shaft driven from that gearbox, with the gears concealed by the drive cover, or within the gearbox depending on the construction. The connecting rod and motion are concealed by the cab (along the lines of Sirapite or the Chatham locos) so aren’t required. This is quite beyond my skills, but looks like something within the capacity of an advanced builder with experience of chassis construction? I think a 7mm scale one would be very effective! Hmm...Duncan models do a white metal Aveling & Porter traction engine in 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldH Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Here's one of the BNR's fleet, first constructed back in the 1980's and due for some updating. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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