gobbler Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Forgot to add this to my builds, a GER 20ft horse box. I'm going to be using this to see if I can make some 'W' irons for the wheels. A bit of a test bed and if successful I will employ the method to my 4W dia 120 full brake and cattle wagon. Cheers Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) Said 'W' irons, they seem to be fairly sturdy so I'll continue. One guess what I'll be doing tomorrow lunchtime.... TTFN Scott Edited March 6, 2018 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbowilts Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Said 'W' irons, they seem to be fairly sturdy so I'll continue. IMG_7969.JPG One guess what I'll be doing tomorrow lunchtime.... TTFN Scott Scott, are you using your favourite thickness of styrene for these? Tim T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Scott, are you using your favourite thickness of styrene for these? Tim T Yep 0.75mm Should they flex too much I have a cunning plan, a plan so cunning, you could pin a tail on it and call it a fox. (Love Black Adder) well brass wire to tell the truth bent to go from inside W iron along the floor and down the other W iron. TTFN Scott 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Well the good news...... There's no wobble on the rails and the irons appear to be nice and firm. When axle boxes and springs are on that should help with the sturdiness as well. Only one visible problem........the ride height, when compared to the milk/luggage van and the Clerestory, as shown below. Any ideas anyone??? Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Check the buffer heights of all three. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPH 603 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Well the good news...... There's no wobble on the rails and the irons appear to be nice and firm. When axle boxes and springs are on that should help with the sturdiness as well. Only one visible problem........the ride height, when compared to the milk/luggage van and the Clerestory, as shown below. IMG_8041.JPG Any ideas anyone??? Scott How high does your other stock sit? It may be worth looking at them and making the appropriate adjustments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night. Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights. TTFN Scott Edited March 8, 2018 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPH 603 Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night. Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights. TTFN Scott If it's prototypical then it goes I guess! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 If it's prototypical then it goes I guess! There was slight variation but not as much as I've got. I'm using 14.mm Bachmann coach wheels on all three vehicles in the shot. Thanks chaps Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikks Posted March 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2018 Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night. Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights. TTFN Scott Gobbler......you modelling is superb. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Hopefully disaster averted Made myself a quick 14mm high gauge My CCT was riding low according to my gauge and the milk/luggage was riding high. I noticed the wheels were smaller on the CCT so I swapped them over with the M/L van Your thoughts????? Scott 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Coming on very nicely. The jig for ensuring a consistent height seems a very sensible idea! Two venerable magazines arrived in Chéz Seagull today, MRC December 1971 with a couple of drawings of coach sides (sides only - I suspect ends were in the first part of the article which I am now looking for!), albeit rather obscure (6 produced between them!) prototypes, and, more promisingly, RM October 1970, which has a very comprehensive article on scratchbuilding an LBSCR Van. It's the latter I will start with - packet of 30 thou plasticard should hopefully arrive by the weekend. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Coming on very nicely. The jig for ensuring a consistent height seems a very sensible idea! Two venerable magazines arrived in Chéz Seagull today, MRC December 1971 with a couple of drawings of coach sides (sides only - I suspect ends were in the first part of the article which I am now looking for!), albeit rather obscure (6 produced between them!) prototypes, and, more promisingly, RM October 1970, which has a very comprehensive article on scratchbuilding an LBSCR Van. It's the latter I will start with - packet of 30 thou plasticard should hopefully arrive by the weekend. Can't wait to see how you progress Either post your doings here or a link to your own thread Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Slightly off topic The Hornby n2....... What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ? What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5? Can you see where I'm going with this? Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPH 603 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Slightly off topic The Hornby n2....... What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ? What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5? Can you see where I'm going with this? Scott You're going to make a 0-6-2 version of the F4/F5? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted March 9, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) Slightly off topic The Hornby n2....... What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ? What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5? Can you see where I'm going with this? Scott https://www.gersociety.org.uk/index.php/home/sales/files-emporium-2/product/64-lg004-ger-lner-2-4-2-tank-locos£3. N2 drivers were 5’8” F4/5 were 5’4” Edited March 9, 2018 by Regularity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdale93 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Very impressive thread that has got my juices flowing! On a side note: where do you get your plastic sheets and strips from? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 You're going to make a 0-6-2 version of the F4/F5? No DD an F4 / F5 was a 2-4-2. I was toying with the idea hacking the chassis about, the 0-6-2 of the N2 has two differing centres, I thought I could bash it about a bit by getting rid of one pair of driving wheels. From the photos I got, the wheel diameters didn't look too far out. I could of got some Romford possibly to replace them if they looked wrong. I was jus hoping one of the wheel centres were ok. The spacings of the wheel centres are way out for an N7 so using the N2 for that is out the question. I've found the Hornby J68 very close for the driver wheel diameters and wheel centres. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Very impressive thread that has got my juices flowing! On a side note: where do you get your plastic sheets and strips from? Most of the plastic I use is slaters 0.75, 0.5 & 0.25 mm thk Some of the strip is Evergreen or cut by hand (with varying degrees of success). All bought from my local-ish model shop John Dutfield's in Chelmsford. Hope to see one of your builds......go on, you know you want to......and post a pic on this thread of your progress. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Cheers chaps for your comments and advice Anyway a bit more progress on the cattle van. You can see the 'W' irons and suspension nearing completion Here's a 3/4 view showing the hand brake detail. She's looking better day by day Cheers Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Heh, was going to ask last night if you were making the brake gear yourself - should have guessed! Looks excellent. Are the rivets slices of rod, or do you use a tool? Third & final old magazine of my order arrived today, but I obviously got the wrong reference, as it contains an article on building a Roxey kit of the 54' Brake Third, rather than building it from scratch. Never mind, it's a useful article as some of the details have been added, so will be filed for future use. Hopefully the Plasticard turns up tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) Heh, was going to ask last night if you were making the brake gear yourself - should have guessed! Looks excellent. Are the rivets slices of rod, or do you use a tool? Third & final old magazine of my order arrived today, but I obviously got the wrong reference, as it contains an article on building a Roxey kit of the 54' Brake Third, rather than building it from scratch. Never mind, it's a useful article as some of the details have been added, so will be filed for future use. Hopefully the Plasticard turns up tomorrow. Rivets......stretched sprue from one of my tank kits (1/35 Sherman firefly hybrid, back half m4 Tamiya, front glacis italeri m4 turret Tasca) another kit bash and scratch Scott Edited March 10, 2018 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPH 603 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 No DD an F4 / F5 was a 2-4-2. I was toying with the idea hacking the chassis about, the 0-6-2 of the N2 has two differing centres, I thought I could bash it about a bit by getting rid of one pair of driving wheels. From the photos I got, the wheel diameters didn't look too far out. I could of got some Romford possibly to replace them if they looked wrong. I was jus hoping one of the wheel centres were ok. The spacings of the wheel centres are way out for an N7 so using the N2 for that is out the question. I've found the Hornby J68 very close for the driver wheel diameters and wheel centres. Cheers Scott I see. I was already aware that the F4/F5 was a 2-4-2 but what you're planning sounds interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted March 10, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2018 That cattle van is a thing of beauty. Superb model making Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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