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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement

Hattons Dave

By Hattons Dave,
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MRDBLUE17

MRDBLUE17

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Hi Al,

 

Thanks for posting such a clear and detailed how to guide for the body. At some point in the future I will need to remove to add sound and a driver.

 

I’ve gone ahead and ordered 66780 tonight as I think it will be popular and don’t want to miss out. Having been pleased with the step up in quality and detail as well as running qualities of the loco I got it made the decision much easier. (Once I sorted the axle box issue to remove the wobble) 

 

Cheers

Mark

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Class 158 productions

Class 158 productions

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Hi, this is rather off topic. But relates slightly to the 66s. Is the reason the fallout between hattons and a certain Barwell based manufacturer due to the class 66? I’ve had to use hattons less and less as they don’t stock the models I need anymore, is there any sign of reconciliation as I’m sure both parties could be losing significant business. Sorry that this is rather off topic. 

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TomScrut

TomScrut

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49 minutes ago, Class 158 productions said:

Hi, this is rather off topic. But relates slightly to the 66s. Is the reason the fallout between hattons and a certain Barwell based manufacturer due to the class 66? I’ve had to use hattons less and less as they don’t stock the models I need anymore, is there any sign of reconciliation as I’m sure both parties could be losing significant business. Sorry that this is rather off topic. 

 

Supposedly it wasn't all down to that (based on things I have read on here) but it was a factor!

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Pre Grouping fan

Pre Grouping fan

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1 hour ago, Class 158 productions said:

Hi, this is rather off topic. But relates slightly to the 66s. Is the reason the fallout between hattons and a certain Barwell based manufacturer due to the class 66? I’ve had to use hattons less and less as they don’t stock the models I need anymore, is there any sign of reconciliation as I’m sure both parties could be losing significant business. Sorry that this is rather off topic. 

 

It was the fact hattons were making their own models and supplying them to other retailers making them a direct competitor to Bachmann. As part of Bachmann T&C's, they don't supply to competitors. It is covered in a thread elsewhere in the Bachmann section I think

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newbryford

newbryford

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45 minutes ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

 

It was the fact hattons were making their own models and supplying them to other retailers making them a direct competitor to Bachmann. As part of Bachmann T&C's, they don't supply to competitors. It is covered in a thread elsewhere in the Bachmann section I think

 

A little light reading.

Anyway - back to the 66.

My 789 has been played with tested and repacked awaiting the next loco weathering session.

 

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big jim

big jim

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1 hour ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Is the £5 for a driver for your 66 from modelu,i got mine this morning and painting them will keep me busy as well as the other things in my three volumes of too do lists.

 

https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/product-category/finescale-figures/railway-and-lineside/1998-present-rl/ 


I hope you got a mini me 

 

https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/product/1102/

 

I’ll have to get me another one as the one I have is currently relaxing in a Bachmann colas 66 

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woodenhead

woodenhead

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46 minutes ago, classy52 said:

I watched one last night from Don Coffey, the binliner from Warrington to Wakefield in a Class 66 and the driver Lee had to stop a few times to pick up the axle box covers that had fallen off :no:

He was also cursing the person who wired the locomotive as he couldn't fit sound and he had to dub it onto the recording.

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rob D2

rob D2

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30 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Would be nice if he had legs,perhaps that where the song Donald wheres your trousers came from eh......its got me Trumped,i mean stumped.....

That’s Brian Daniels I think , makes O gauge models on this forum . Used to drive red sheds 

 

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YesTor

YesTor

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16 hours ago, MRDBLUE17 said:

Hi Al,

 

Thanks for posting such a clear and detailed how to guide for the body. At some point in the future I will need to remove to add sound and a driver.

 

I’ve gone ahead and ordered 66780 tonight as I think it will be popular and don’t want to miss out. Having been pleased with the step up in quality and detail as well as running qualities of the loco I got it made the decision much easier. (Once I sorted the axle box issue to remove the wobble) 

 

Cheers

Mark

 

Thanks Mark, and yeah, I think it's very easy for people to be put-off from buying some models (many models, not just the 66 in this case), due to issues that often really aren't that difficult to overcome.  Those step/handrail assemblies are indeed fiddly, however they are very much a feature of the model, and just require a little patience and delicate handling when reassembling.  It's clear from reading these topics that there are a lot of people not confident at some of the basic things such as removing bodyshells, basic maintenance etc, and if posts such as this encourage someone to at least 'have a go' and increase their own confidence in the process, then that's a good thing. 

 

I've a Cemex 'shed' on order too and very much looking forward to it!  :)

 

Best
Al

 

 

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TomScrut

TomScrut

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3 minutes ago, YesTor said:

Those step/handrail assemblies are indeed fiddly, however they are very much a feature of the model

 

Whilst they are, I do wonder why they are part of the body and don't slot into the chassis under the body profile

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Edna Clouds

Edna Clouds

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18 hours ago, YesTor said:

Bodyshell reassemby

 

Okay, this may be useful for anyone struggling with reassembly of those delicate bodyshell components.  I'm in no way suggesting that this is the only way, there may well be better methods, but this certainly works for me in keeping those 'dangly' footsteps and pipes under control:

 

1.  Lightly attach a piece of thin scrap card (make sure the card is quite flexible) with a small piece of masking tape (or other low-tack tape) behind each cab door.  Having experimented a few times I'll say that's it's quite important to use low-tack tape and ensure only small sections actually affix the card to the body, as you need to be able to slide the pieces of card and tape out easily as you reassemble:

 

DRS1

 

 

2.  Ensure that each piece of card protects the delicate handrails as you carefully introduce the bodyshell to the chassis for reassembly, carefully aligning the doorways with their respective steps on the bogies:

 

DRS2

 

 

3.  Begin to gently apply pressure, pushing the body downwards and ensure that all four doorways are looking like the one below as you push down.  Don't force it, if something feels stubborn or over-tight then it's better to slide the body off and start again rather than risk breaking something.  Watch those tiny pipes too directly under the grilles on each side, as they have a tendency to sneak inside the chassis block, when they should remain very much outside, as pictured:

 

DRS3

 

 

4.  As soon as you can feel the body begin to ease on nicely, it becomes preferable at this point to actually lift the model and apply light pressure to the top mid-roof area to gently slide the shell equally on all sides the rest of the way down.  Importantly, in fact vitally, ensure that the handrail and step assemblies under each doorway are all intact and haven't folded underneath themselves.  Keep checking as well that those delicate pipes remain outside of the chassis block:

 

DRS4

 

 

5.  Okay, at about this point you need to begin to slide the pieces of card out at the same time as you apply gentle downward pressure to the bodyshell just as it reaches that last lap before snapping back into place.  If for some reason the card won't release then it likely means that the tape is stuck too firmly inside - remember, small and lightly tacky is all you need [see pic 1].  Again, check that the handrails and steps on all four doorways remain outside and protected by the card pieces at all times:

 

DRS5

 

 

6.  And that's about it... pieces of card removed, bodyshell squarely back in place; handrails, steps and pipework all neat and undamaged, as they should be:

 

DRS6

 

 

The key thing is to take your time, and if something feels forced or strained then go back and start again.  It's not a race!  :)

 

Best

Al

 

Bang on! I've done 'made to measure' plasticard strips for both sides. Attached with masking tape lightly pressed on the body and heavily pressed on the plasticard, the whole lot (usually!) detaches from the loco while remaining stuck to the plasticard, leaving no tape stuck inside the body. 

 

Terrific fun isn't it?

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