Cemflo, by Accurascale

[dogbox321]

On 04/04/2019 at 17:27, Accurascale Fran said:

Happy 'Tatty Thursday' everyone! Our technical director took out the weathering powders, rock salt and the airbrush and got to work on some of our new TOPS era cemflos. We think they look super, but maybe we're a tad biased! 

 

Finishes like this is why we don't do factory weathered models... 

 

 

 

 

Obviously too much time on his hands......

 

.....You should send him China to head a weathered models production line!  LOL!

 

 

[zr2498]

A couple of Cemflos weathered - 13 to go!

Thanks to Tim and Mick, these were started at the the Pendon Museum weathering course. Finished at home. Quite a variety of media to get this effect including oils.

David

 

[RBAGE]

3 hours ago, zr2498 said:

A couple of Cemflos weathered - 13 to go!

Thanks to Tim and Mick, these were started at the the Pendon Museum weathering course. Finished at home. Quite a variety of media to get this effect including oils.

David

 

Thanks to zr2498 (and Tim and Mick) at Pendon, I might get some of mine done.

[RBAGE]

Apart from the poor photography and that it looks as if it's rolling down hill, can anyone spot anything about this cemflo?

 

Just as well this one is soon to be under the knife and will emerge as a Gloucester.

 

I had better check the rest.

[Accurascale Fran]

That's the Australian variant I believe.

 

(in all seriousness, sorry about that!) 

[RBAGE]

31 minutes ago, Accurascale Fran said:

That's the Australian variant I believe.

 

(in all seriousness, sorry about that!) 

No problem. Branding already removed.

Along with suspension, air pipes, weld lines.

You may recall, long before release, I asked if you could supply models with parts that were easily removed. Most parts are push fit so it makes conversion very easy.

However, during my research, I discovered that the Gloucester is actually taller than the Met Camm. Not so easy to deal with than simple parts replacement but can be done.

[adb968008]

5 hours ago, RBAGE said:

can anyone spot anything about this cemflo?

Its empty, as you fill it the logo slowly spins around

 

The logo is right way up, its the wagon thats upside down, how else you going to empty it, and when you've finished give it a good shake !! 

Edited May 23, 2019 by adb968008

[The Ghost of IKB]

On 20/05/2019 at 07:17, zr2498 said:

A couple of Cemflos weathered - 13 to go!

Thanks to Tim and Mick, these were started at the the Pendon Museum weathering course. Finished at home. Quite a variety of media to get this effect including oils.

David

 

They look fantastic, any chance you could explain what you did? I have no idea where to start with weathering these.

 

[zr2498]

On 24/05/2019 at 08:08, The Ghost of IKB said:

They look fantastic, any chance you could explain what you did? I have no idea where to start with weathering these.

 

No problem to share the technique I have used to get this particular weathered look. I have just started another 11 Cemflos so will take photos as I progress (with explanation). Planning to convert two of them to Gloucesters so those will have to wait (hopefully RBAGE will share?). Please give me a little time as busy building a bridge (from brass frets) just now.

 

The Cemflo weathering takes quite some time and involves many steps (perhaps more than needed as I was experimenting)

I will give the initial installment later this weekend but the starting point is Dullcote followed by Lifecolour Tensocrom - White Oxide (diluted) on the tank to give an oxidised aluminium base plus a light dusting of LC frame dirt over the underframe.

David

Edited May 27, 2019 by zr2498
To clarify what takes the time!

[zr2498]

As promised here is the first installment of weathering Cemflos by the same (or similar) method to those shown earlier in this thread.

Background - I was trying to get a 4  - 6 years in use look. Most colour Cemflo photos are much older, so I looked at how weathering of similar cement carrying tank wagons looked after the shorter service time. They would therefore still show signs of continuous cement spilage and staining from hatch lubrication but the frame would be suffering more with accumulated dirt rather than severe corrosion. The photo of the two Cemflos earlier are about as far as I want to go with intensity. The remaining 11 will be weathered to a lesser extent but I need to keep the same colour pallete.

Below are the materials used for stage 1

a) Dullcote over the tank including the sides

b) Panel lines using the blue /black wash - this is optional and will give a shadow under subsequent layers. It is especially useful on the tank ends where there are recesses.

c) When dry (overnight) - brush the Tensocrom white oxide diluted with acrylic thinners 50:50 over the tank body and ends making sure it spreads (not evenly but without blotches) - use thinners to clean off the numbers etc.

d) The Tensocrom was then airbrushed on - first Dust type 1 again diluted and with the air pressure turned right down to get up close. Random over the tank (a little on the ends perhaps), and filling in gaps around the decals. Finally Dust type 2 around the hatches. These last two are again optional but do give some tonal variation (and they were included in the LC set!)

Then moving onto the underframe as below

 

e) LC frame dirt airbrushed over the underside and then sides (blow tank) and in the ends (light dusting)

 

Next time will be more colour variation and streaking effects on the tank side using oils (scary! - method courtesy of Tim Shackleton)

 

Edited May 27, 2019 by zr2498

['CHARD]

On 25/05/2019 at 08:57, zr2498 said:

Please give me a little time as busy building a bridge (from brass frets) just now. It takes quite some time and involves many steps

 

This is a footbridge, yes?  

[zr2498]

40 minutes ago, 'CHARD said:

 

This is a footbridge, yes?  

Sorry - I have corrected the grammer above.

This is the railway bridge

 

['CHARD]

2 hours ago, zr2498 said:

Sorry - I have corrected the grammer above.

This is the railway bridge

 

 

There wasn't a problem, I just envisaged the many steps as individual parts....  

 

Nice bridge in any case!!!

[zr2498]

Here goes with stage 2 of the Cemflo weathering

a) As previously mentioned we now come to oil paints which sounds a bit scary, but it can be worked and easily removed with white spirit  so there is plenty of time to adjust. I was using the colours as below

The Paynes grey is too dark so it was made paler with some white and a touch of yellow. The colours are spotted onto the tank sides with different patterns to give variability. Load to a piece of card so that excess oil is soaked away.

The colours are then mixed with, first dry and then with a damp brush finally giving vertical strokes. The amount of paint applied will give variability and determine how much of the previous layers are maintained.

The same is done on some of the ends to a lesser extent.

Additional dabs of paint (white and black) are added for localised variation and to give some streaking effects - done with a dry brushing method

b) Airbrushing next with a mix of the paints below. Initially this was mixed 2 parts frame dirt / 1 part sleeper grime / 1 part track dirt

This is applied to the lower part of the tank and the upper part of the underframe plus frame ends. The paint applied was generally light and variable from tank to tank but if too heavy then it is manipulated with thinners which gives a secondary effect. Areas can also be treated with thinner and a comb brush to generate some streaking. As acrylic is used it needs to be done soon after applying paint. The lower part of the tank will have more treatment but base layer is now applied (2 out of 10 for now!)

After completing the other 8 as above, then up next will be the base layers for the spills around the hatches

David

 

 

Edited May 28, 2019 by zr2498
Additional information

[JSpencer]

(Finally) Two videos of Cemflos running on my layout. The first starts off with plain DC before switching to DCC. The second DCC only.

 

This shows the possibilities of running Cemflos behind various locos and with other suitable rolling stock - with a couple of fantasy surprises thrown in! (Look out for the 37 asking for authorisation - the sound comes directly from the 37, no after effects! DCC locos can have a mind of their own.)

 

 

 

[McC]

Superb, the mix of tops and pretops really works great!

[zr2498]

The remaining 8 Cemflos were airbrushed over the lower tank areas as before, so now we come to stage 3 of the weathering involving the spillage around the hatches and the blending of tank sides

These are the materials used for stage 3

a) A wash of deep grey is applied to the workings around the hatches and the platform. Spread and thin with white spirit

b)  Then LC liquid pigment (dried salt) is applied to the areas where the spillages will extend to. This was done in 3 layers with partial drying each time and some spreading to avoid drips and blotches.

c) After the last coat, and when the surface was tacky LC pigment European Dust was patched on top of the areas as shown below

d) Another 2 coats of dried salt added (this can be done until the desired effect is reached)

e) Again pigments are added to a tacky surface this time using the the European Dust and Ab 502 Alkaline Dust as well to give some tonal variation

f) Next, to get a bit of depth to the spillage the tanks are spayed with Dullcote and when tacky European Dust is tapped from a brush onto the higher part of the spillages and around the platform and hatches. This is then adjusted with a brush to even out any clumps. Thanks to Mick Bonwick for showing me this technique at Pendon. This can be repeated depending on the intensity required.

At this stage Ab 502 Ashes grey can be added around the spills with reference to the prototype photographs.

It is blended in carefully with the European Dust. The sequences d) to f) can be repeated as often as necessary to get the desired effect with new areas of spillage being revealed.

g) To give fresh areas of spill and white patches where the upper dirty layers have peeled off, the LC Dried Salt is applied with a small brush a number of times to get the right strength and blended in (when dry) with the European Dust

h) Next the upper and lower parts of the tank need to be blended. For this use the Urban Industry Dirt pigment which is very close to the air brush mix previously applied to the lower tank area. This is worked upwards and European Dust worked downwards to remove any obvious division between areas

 

So 4 Cemflos have reached this phase and 6 more to do before the final stage. This will involve further weathering of the underframe and ends

I have included the original 2 completed Cemflos in the photo below for reference, which if you recall was the maximum grubbiness I was going to.

David

 

 

 

Edited May 30, 2019 by zr2498

[The Ghost of IKB]

Brilliant job and inspiring stuff!  

[No Decorum]

On ‎28‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 20:14, JSpencer said:

(Finally) Two videos of Cemflos running on my layout. The first starts off with plain DC before switching to DCC. The second DCC only.

 

This shows the possibilities of running Cemflos behind various locos and with other suitable rolling stock - with a couple of fantasy surprises thrown in! (Look out for the 37 asking for authorisation - the sound comes directly from the 37, no after effects! DCC locos can have a mind of their own.)

 

Thank you; very enjoyable videos. I assume that Her Maj travelled in a brake van in the train with the royal headcode. 

[JSpencer]

12 hours ago, No Decorum said:

Thank you; very enjoyable videos. I assume that Her Maj travelled in a brake van in the train with the royal headcode. 

 

She always brought cement in bulk and personally fetched it herself.

[Accurascale Fran]

Really excellent weathering! We love seeing them get dirtied up!

 

Cheers!

 

Fran

[zr2498]

Thanks Fran

 

Now we come to the 4th and final stage of the Cemflo weathering.

a) The components around the lower part of the tank are highlighted by applying blue / black wash. It is also applied for a second time to some of the hatch closure parts and to strengthen some of the darker spillage areas.

b) Then, the underframe and ends are treated with pigments; dark mud, track rust, burnt umber and European dust. By checking the prototype photos the extent of dirt / corrosion / overspill can be replicated. The dark mud is particularly good when applied to the brake pads. The combination of burnt umber and European dust around the discharge chute is used to give a dirty cement effect.

c) Next (assuming some maintenance has taken place), leaking and stains exhaust oil effect if applied to some of the lubricated parts and engine oil around some of the axle boxes.

d) The buffers need to be toned down. This is done with the burnt umber / European dust combination, followed by spotting the contact points with leaking and stains. The gloss can be reduced a little with pigments once dry.

Here are the 12 Cemflos in weathered conditon. You may notice that two (near the front) have had less service and therefore have lighter weathering, but from exactly the same pallette.

Well they are not quite finished. The screw link couplings will be modified before adding and then weathered (to match).

The handwheels also need to be cleaned up a little around the rim - possibly with a touch of white paint.

Another 2 will be weathered after Gloucester conversion - I have kept one pristine as it is good to see the contrast.

 

This weathering has only been possible by expert tuition and guidance provided by Mick Bonwick and Tim Shackleton at courses, at both Missenden Abbey http://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/ and Pendon Museum https://pendonmuseum.com/.

Thanks guys.

 

Good luck with your weathering!

David

Edited May 31, 2019 by zr2498

[RBAGE]

5 hours ago, zr2498 said:

Thanks Fran

 

Now we come to the 4th and final stage of the Cemflo weathering.

a) The components around the lower part of the tank are highlighted by applying blue / black wash. It is also applied for a second time to some of the hatch closure parts and to strengthen some of the darker spillage areas.

b) Then, the underframe and ends are treated with pigments; dark mud, track rust, burnt umber and European dust. By checking the prototype photos the extent of dirt / corrosion / overspill can be replicated. The dark mud is particularly good when applied to the brake pads. The combination of burnt umber and European dust around the discharge chute is used to give a dirty cement effect.

c) Next (assuming some maintenance has taken place), leaking and stains exhaust oil effect if applied to some of the lubricated parts and engine oil around some of the axle boxes.

d) The buffers need to be toned down. This is done with the burnt umber / European dust combination, followed by spotting the contact points with leaking and stains. The gloss can be reduced a little with pigments once dry.

Here are the 12 Cemflos in weathered conditon. You may notice that two (near the front) have had less service and therefore have lighter weathering, but from exactly the same pallette.

Well they are not quite finished. The screw link couplings will be modified before adding and then weathered (to match).

The handwheels also need to be cleaned up a little around the rim - possibly with a touch of white paint.

Another 2 will be weathered after Gloucester conversion - I have kept one pristine as it is good to see the contrast.

 

This weathering has only been possible by expert tuition and guidance provided by Mick Bonwick and Tim Shackleton at courses, at both Missenden Abbey http://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/ and Pendon Museum https://pendonmuseum.com/.

Thanks guys.

 

Good luck with your weathering!

David

Hello David,

Responding to an earlier suggestion that I explain my approach to a Cemflo conversion to the Gloucester build.

I have taken photographs for a blow by blow account of what I have done but the scratch built discharge equipment in plastic card (on the left) looks a bit clumsy. I'm going to try to scratch build in brass and at the same time I've enquired about having them 3D printed. I have original drawings to take to DEMU Showcase tomorrow to discuss with Alan Butler (Modelu).

You might notice the height difference between left and right hand conversion. The one on the right has had the barrel raised by 0.75mm to approximate the increased height of the prototype.

All conversions await a repaint, rebranding and weathering. No need to teach my granny anything on the latter requirement.

I need to remove the builders information on the solebars.

More to follow on the conversions if things turn out as I hope.

Bob

[zr2498]

Bob

Looking good, and I see quite a few changes. 3 D printed sounds a nice option - I would be interested to hear what Alan Butler comes up with. I like your attention to detail - 0.75mm higher! I assume you have a good set of drawings for the Gloucester?

I expect there could be a quite a number of modellers wanting to do this conversion.

David

[RBAGE]

4 minutes ago, zr2498 said:

Bob

Looking good, and I see quite a few changes. 3 D printed sounds a nice option - I would be interested to hear what Alan Butler comes up with. I like your attention to detail - 0.75mm higher! I assume you have a good set of drawings for the Gloucester?

I expect there could be a quite a number of modellers wanting to do this conversion.

David

If anyone would like to express any interest, it might help to cover the cost of CAD drawings and printing and encourage me to follow the printing route.

The barrel on the Gloucester's and the Met Camms are, as far as I can tell, the same size. That the Gloucester's sit higher on the chassis explains many of the visible differences:

 - air pipe offset

 - higher support gusset

 - end platform cylinder positions

I don't intend changing the end cylinders but I did commission Gloucester cylinders for my Triang conversion a few years ago. These cylinders are still available.

If you want to convert your cemflos to the correct height, you also need to consider the barrel ribs. These will need to be extended to the chassis.

I have drawings from the Gloucester archive. Surprisingly, the archive also had Met Camm drawings. I have a great contact for such information but I'm not sure if he would be happy for him to post his name but suffice to say, these conversions would be much more difficult and very much approximations without his help.