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Class 37, by Accurascale


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  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, Kylestrome said:

You can call it what you like, but I'd say it's strikingly similar to a Tang Band TO-2008S! 😎

 

PS. Sorry. I'm a bit late to the party ... 🙁

 

TangBandTO-2008S.jpg.9e436f1aa0a65e362633c32aad8924e5.jpg

 

Reposting from the spec: 

Article number - T0-2008S

 

The speakers are manufacturered and branded for us by Tangband for both OEM fitting at our other factories and sale as an accessory. 

 

https://www.accurascale.com/en-eu/collections/dcc-decoders-and-accessories/products/accurathrash-dcc-sound-speaker-pack-of-1

Edited by McC
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11 minutes ago, McC said:

 

Reposting from the spec: 

Article number - T0-2008S

 

The speakers a more manufacturered and branded for us by Tangband for both OEM fitting at our other factories and sale as an accessory. 

 

https://www.accurascale.com/en-eu/collections/dcc-decoders-and-accessories/products/accurathrash-dcc-sound-speaker-pack-of-1

Should put them on ebay, they sell for double your price.

 

😜

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Interesting and helpful email from Hattons today about the Accura 37:

 

“Class 37s are fitted with a stay alive. We are advising you just need to make sure the stay alive is charged before trying the sound. It is recommended that it is run around the track at a slow speed for around five minutes before attempting the sound.”

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3 hours ago, norfolkchinaclay said:


There’s another one (announcement) coming along in 5 days..

From what Fran was saying the other day it may be before that. These modern spec ones look good, but it’s the old classics that are the definitive 37s to me.

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Deep Joy........ive just secured concrete Bob in DCC SOUND 🙏😁😁.

 

ive also just received my Haviland and Spirit from the chaps at Rainbow Railways, picked by Colin. All received in excellent order, well packaged and APC have done really well. Less than 48 hours delivery. 👍👍

 

these class 37's have been a long wait but i am absolutely over the moon with these. Fran and Steve et al, just keep doing what you are doing chaps. You are on the right track and please dont ever compromise on fidelity. Absolutely top marks to Accurascale. 
 

delighted is an understatement. 

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6 minutes ago, Ruairidh Munro said:

Well when you've only got a small point-to-point TMD layout, that's about as helpful as a fart in a spacesuit.

 

Given that any new locomotive normally benefits from 'running in' I would imagine that anyone without access to sufficient track to do that would have invested in a rolling road to use instead?

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4 minutes ago, Pteremy said:

 

Given that any new locomotive normally benefits from 'running in' I would imagine that anyone without access to sufficient track to do that would have invested in a rolling road to use instead?

Correct 👍👍

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8 minutes ago, Pteremy said:

 

Given that any new locomotive normally benefits from 'running in' I would imagine that anyone without access to sufficient track to do that would have invested in a rolling road to use instead?

While a rolling road (I have two FWIW)  will provide the capability for the 5 minutes of pre-sound running to wind up the stay alive it does rather seem a little odd that if I use a new AS 37 on my small exhibition layout I'l need to run the thing in on my rolling road for 5 minutes each time its put on the layout - surely some mistake?

Chris

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19 minutes ago, Super-Sloth said:

Why would it need to run anywhere to charge the capacitor? Surely if it’s sat on the layout on live track it will charge. I can’t see a reason why it would need to move to charge. 

 

Pretty much, just being on powered track for between 30-45 and 90 seconds should be more than enough for most layout voltages.

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26 minutes ago, Ruairidh Munro said:

Running-in is a completely different thing carried out once for a new loco.

 

Are you suggesting to run every loco on a rolling-road for 5 minutes before EVERY operating session.  Hardly practical with even a relatively small fleet of 10-12 engines on a shed.  Would take an hour just to get up and running by which time you've wasted most of the session.

 

As per McC ... on a dcc layout there is a constant voltage to the track.  Maybe on a dc layout you would need to run it for a couple of mi uses to charge the capacitor.

No im not. 
what im saying is that its run in as per the instructions then thats it!

 

if younread the post i replied to it suggests if there is only a short layout then use rolling roads to run in. Thats what im saying 'correct' to. 
 

nothing more......nothing less!

Edited by Krieghoff
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1 hour ago, Ruairidh Munro said:

Running-in is a completely different thing carried out once for a new loco.

 

Are you suggesting to run every loco on a rolling-road for 5 minutes before EVERY operating session.  Hardly practical with even a relatively small fleet of 10-12 engines on a shed.  Would take an hour just to get up and running by which time you've wasted most of the session.

 

As per McC ... on a dcc layout there is a constant voltage to the track.  Maybe on a dc layout you would need to run it for a couple of mi uses to charge the capacitor.


I swear some people willfully misunderstand just so they can get uppity…..

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13 minutes ago, aureol40012 said:


I swear some people willfully misunderstand just so they can get uppity…..

The advice from Hattons did seem to suggest the situation described and I took it the same way...there was then a diatribe about how we should get a rolling road and that would solve the problem. RMweb at its best....

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25 minutes ago, dave56 said:

Bit of advice would be welcome ,how do you fit the snow ploughs ?

Thanks.

 

Centre Plough goes here - 

CentrePloughs.jpg.7f034b2e5dc4593c74cf123db939477d.jpg

 

Left and Right in here:

LRPloughs.jpg.cd4368c66a794d5de5d6fcc45aa01df1.jpg

 

Putting the loco in a foam mount or similar and taking your time, and it should be an easy job, the centre holes may want a very slight opening out (with a small drill bit or punch) to make life easier. 

 

The NEM Plough obviously pops into the coupling socket.

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22 minutes ago, McC said:

 

Centre Plough goes here - 

CentrePloughs.jpg.7f034b2e5dc4593c74cf123db939477d.jpg

 

Left and Right in here:

LRPloughs.jpg.cd4368c66a794d5de5d6fcc45aa01df1.jpg

 

Putting the loco in a foam mount or similar and taking your time, and it should be an easy job, the centre holes may want a very slight opening out (with a small drill bit or punch) to make life easier. 

 

The NEM Plough obviously pops into the coupling socket.

Many thanks all done.

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1 hour ago, aureol40012 said:


I swear some people willfully misunderstand just so they can get uppity…..

Agree entirely. I wish people would read the OP and look at whats said and more importantly, whats replied to. 
 

anyway.......back to enjoying my 37's 🙏

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Thanks guys for the advice on the non-sound decoders earlier, I think I better bide my time for an Accurascale decoder in due course! 🤞


The snowplough attachments look great, you wouldn’t believe how much of the back of the ‘plough (and bogie front) I had to grind down to get ploughs fitted and bogies to swing freely on my old Bachmann 37s 😂

 

Cheers,

James

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Mine arrived and its mega - love it. The Wheel slip actually sounds really good too. But blimey, I would of loved the cold start, I am not going to lie.

 

especially when we have like 10,000 options for horns…

 

Don’t get me wrong, my 4 year old will love the 10,000 horn options on his iPad (Z21) but I’d kill for a cold start!

 

Maybe I am in the minority. Everything else is mega though, so I will get over it.

 

and the accurascale out of the box 1mph crawl, as always, is astounding.

 

I’m intrigued - do you guys pre-run in motors? Why can you get it right and no-one else can?!?

 

9.5/10 from me - Cold start would of made it 11/10 😉

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Quick bit of help please…I’ve got one of the little silver door kick-plates (?) loose in the box. What’s best to reattach it? A tiny bit of superglue? TIA

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1 minute ago, NaN said:

Quick bit of help please…I’ve got one of the little silver door kick-plates (?) loose in the box. What’s best to reattach it? A tiny bit of superglue? TIA


I’d go for a little touch of PVA glue (or similar), there’s a big risk in using super glue that it could overspill and damage the paint, at least with a non-solvent glue it’ll just wipe away and no issues! 

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