Peco Parkside kits for a novice

[gary_lner]

Hello everyone I hope you are all keeping safe with everything going on in the world and getting some time to do some work on you're railways.

As a back up self isolation plan I put an order in for some Peco Parkside kits from the L.N.E.R variety and some glue to go along with it. I've gone for duluxe materials plastic magic for the kit. Are there any other types of glues that people recommend? The instructions recommend liquid cement which I remember using many years ago to build kits but plastic magic seems to be the way to go there days looking at reviews etc. Has anyone built any of these kits just using plastic magic or similar glues? Would this glue be suitable for the bearings to be glued in? Other glues I have to hand would be UHU that I've used for some Metcalfe buildings. 

I've always been tempted to get build these kits and thought now might be the time.

Any help would be great and if there any any pitfalls I can avoid whilst building these kits please let me know.

 

Thanks again and stay safe 

 

Regards Gary 

[Ravenser]

Any plastic solvent should do - Humbrol, Plastic Weld, limone , Buitanone, etc

 

I find the bearings normally need to be pushed in and possibly the hole opened out to take them, though a drop of liquid cement may soften the hole sufficiently to push the bearing home

[brossard]

I've always used Testors liquid solvent and gel.  However, as Ravenser says, any glue formulated for plastic will work.  Butanone is identical to MEK.

 

If you are just starting out, you will need a few tools.  As I think about my workbench:

 

- set of files, diamond ones are best I think since they don't get clogged.

- set of broaches

- sanding sticks

- piece of glass to check for flatness - an inexpensive hand mirror will do.

- knife, I use the large Olfa (yellow)

- drills, don't fall for the multi pack.  You will need 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm).  Buy a lot, they will get dull and you will break them.

- pin vice(s) to hold your drills

- steel rule

 

I've bought loads of tools over the years, most stay in the toolbox.  I tend to use the basics most of the time.

 

Have a look at Eileens Emporium, https://eileensemporium.com/   they have just about everything you need in the tool line.

 

Don't assume the kit has everything you need.  Parkside kits do include wheels and transfers.  You will need paint.  Some parts, like rodding, should be brass wire, not plastic.  A pack or two of 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm) brass wire will come in handy, again from Eileens.

 

The biggest pitfall is building the wagon off square.  Heartbreaking to finish the model only to find it rocks on the track.  Parkside are quite good but it pays to take your time and ensure things are true.  Use the glass for this.  It is not a race, so be patient and let the glue set before moving on.

 

Parkside instructions tend to quite good.  You will also want to check pictures and a good source for this is Paul Bartletts picture collection:

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons

 

John

 

[gary_lner]

3 hours ago, brossard said:

I've always used Testors liquid solvent and gel.  However, as Ravenser says, any glue formulated for plastic will work.  Butanone is identical to MEK.

 

If you are just starting out, you will need a few tools.  As I think about my workbench:

 

- set of files, diamond ones are best I think since they don't get clogged.

- set of broaches

- sanding sticks

- piece of glass to check for flatness - an inexpensive hand mirror will do.

- knife, I use the large Olfa (yellow)

- drills, don't fall for the multi pack.  You will need 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm).  Buy a lot, they will get dull and you will break them.

- pin vice(s) to hold your drills

- steel rule

 

I've bought loads of tools over the years, most stay in the toolbox.  I tend to use the basics most of the time.

 

Have a look at Eileens Emporium, https://eileensemporium.com/   they have just about everything you need in the tool line.

 

Don't assume the kit has everything you need.  Parkside kits do include wheels and transfers.  You will need paint.  Some parts, like rodding, should be brass wire, not plastic.  A pack or two of 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm) brass wire will come in handy, again from Eileens.

 

The biggest pitfall is building the wagon off square.  Heartbreaking to finish the model only to find it rocks on the track.  Parkside are quite good but it pays to take your time and ensure things are true.  Use the glass for this.  It is not a race, so be patient and let the glue set before moving on.

 

Parkside instructions tend to quite good.  You will also want to check pictures and a good source for this is Paul Bartletts picture collection:

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons

 

John

 

Good afternoon John thank you for getting back to me and for the great information you've given me. I have most of the tools on the list just missing the glass some of the drill bits and broaches. So I'll look at getting them asap and give Eileens emporium a look aswell. 

 

Thanks once again 

 

Regards Gary

[Phil Parker]

2 minutes ago, gary_lner said:

Good afternoon John thank you for getting back to me and for the great information you've given me. I have most of the tools on the list just missing the glass some of the drill bits and broaches. So I'll look at getting them asap and give Eileens emporium a look aswell. 

 

To be honest, you'll be fine without those on the more modern kits. I've build dozens of Parkside kits and never used a broach (used them on other kits!) and rarely a drill bit.

 

To fit bearings, I put a drop of MekPak in the hole, let the plastic soften and then shove the bearing in. No need to drill.

 

The glass is essential but you don't need anything special - an old mirror will do the job.

 

The most important thing is to get started. Like most jobs you can read all you like but will learn more the first time you build a kit. It might not be perfect but you'll be surprised what you find out. Remember, this is just model railways. If it doesn't work, no-one dies!

[brossard]

You may be right Phil about the broaches and drills if you plan to build the kit as is.  I tend to add more detail to my (7mm) kits which can involve some drilling and fettling.  These tools are very valuable in general I think. 

 

I would also add some tweezers, straight and curved.

 

John

[davefromacrossthepond]

Gary,

Be careful.  You are entering an environment which is very addicting!

Dave

[jukebox]

1 hour ago, davefromacrossthepond said:

Gary,

Be careful.  You are entering an environment which is very addicting!

Dave

 

That's just all the fumes from the MEK....

[Guest WM183]

HI Gary,

 

Parkside kits are wonderful. They come complete with everything but paint and glue, and build up into wonderful models. Some of the plastic brake bits can be a bit fragile, but other than that there are no problems. The tools I'd recommend for a first kit are pretty similar to those already mentioned:

 

Good hobby knife and extra blades. I like Swann Morton knives and no 10 and 10a blades

 

A couple cheap mini files. Pound stores or cheap tool vendors often sell sets of 5 or 6 of different shapes. Don't use good Swiss files on plastic!

 

A cutting mat with a grid. Saves your desk top and gives a guide for building things square.

 

Wire, 0.5 and 1 mm sizes along with drills of the same size and a pin vise. You'll break a lot of the little bits, buy them in bulk from Chinese sellers on eBay.

 

A small machinists square is nice, as are a pair of tweezers but neither are a necessity. 

 

Parkside kits in 7mm have compensation built in so are easy to build square. In 4mm use a mirror as described above.

 

Glue - I use tamiya plastic cement. It comes in a handy bottle with a screw top and a brush applicator. Open a window, it's stinky stuff!

 

I paint mine by spraying with a spray can of flat black primer ( this does all the brake bits and frame!) and then I paint the body, roof, etc with Vallejo paints by brush.

 

Have fun. They're great kits!

 

Amanda 

[gobbler]

Gary

 

When you start, you won't want to stop!

My glue of preference is tamiya extra thin, in a little cube shaped bottle.

 

My trusty scalpel, my favoured blade is a 10A

 

A metal square is recommended. 

 

You'll find later on there are wagons you'll want but cant get.  Peter tatlow's books on LNER wagons will become a must.   Then you can start a bit of scratch building.  Have a peek at my thread.

All the best.

 

Keep safe and have fun.

 

Scott

 

[Fat Controller]

It's worth getting a 'file card' , which is a sort of wire brush for cleaning material like plastic or White Metal from files. It means you don't need to throw files away, the first time they get clagged up.

Don't economise on knife or scalpel blades; as any cook will tell you, you can cause much more damage to yourself with a blunt blade than a sharp one, partially because you have to exert more pressure.

There is a useful jig (from Brassmasters, I think), which is useful in making sure axles are 'square' to one another. 

[Philou]

Hi, just from my own experience having started some Parkside kits this week - my first ever as before those it was all Airfix (tho' I still have some unbuilt to start too).

 

A word - take care with Butane-1-one (Ethyl Methyl Ketone) same as MEK (just doesn't have quite the same 'ring' to it (unintended organic chemistry pun there!)) as it is very volatile and don't sniff it as it's not very good for your health.

 

I'm using Tamiya liquid cement (in the square bottle) applied with a fine brush. Unfortunately it doesn't have the same capillary action as MEK so needs to be applied sparingly. I'm taking two days to construct a wagon - as I'm taking care to remove flashing and mould lines first. I assemble the underframe to the base first as the buffer beam (those wagons that have them) gives me a datum from which then to assemble the body. I allow that to 'go off' over night then finish the brake assemblies the next day.

 

If the underframe is assembled correctly the wheels will end up square (in a vertical plane) as there is a little play in the top-hat bearings should you not have a piece of glass. What I did find was that the tube wagon 'crabs' almost imperceptibly due to the two sole bars being not perfectly placed opposite each other - take care on that, it's worth while. I shan't make the same error with the extra-long CCT van!

 

Having built Airfix wagons, I find that the instructions are somewhat less clear and the illustrations a little, shall we say, amateurish compared to the Airfix ones of yore. Also, the plastic is rather thinner (perhaps more accurate in profile in that respect) and is more flexible - but nontheless quite nice when put together, tho' the lack of locating lugs for some parts can be disconcerting at first.

 

A question: I am limited in the variety of paints that I can source around here and I'm primarily stuck with acrylics. What can I use as a base coat to ensure that the acrylics will adhere to the plastic?

 

Take care out there everyone,

 

Cheers and good luck with your models,

 

Philip

[Fat Controller]

Spray acrylic car primer; might be available in Leroy-Merlin, or whatever other DIY/ car parts suppliers you have in Franche-Compte. In the UK, it's available in a 'bauxitey' red, or a light grey; virtually correct for BR fitted and unfitted stock...

Edited March 27, 2020 by Fat Controller

[Philou]

@Fat Controller Hello Brian, thanks for that. Had there been a Halfords I would have some of theirs as that seems to have a good write-up on various threads. Unfortunately, our Leroy Merlin is miiiiiles away and our 'Ausweis' doesn't allow for the getting of modelling paints under 'essential items' . Our local quincaillerie 'Weldom' (part of the LM chain) may have some spray and may be open too. I shall have a look next week on our next shopping trip.

 

Another question springs to mind - and it's not solely related to Parkside but other plastic kit rolling stock - where is the best place to put some lead offcut as ballast (I have lead sheet)? In a closed wagon there's no question as it's got to be inside, but an open one - underneath or in the bottom and then disguise it with a load? Any thoughts?

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

[Fat Controller]

I've used it both inside and underneath open wagons. I have a large pile of lead flashing, which my late father-in-law had intended to 'weigh-in' after he retired. It's quite easy to cut to fit with a Stanley knife or similar. If you're modelling something like spoil wagons, they often didn't get emptied completely, so you could put a bit of lead inside each end, and cover it with dirty ballast. You could also use the lead to form a 'false floor', and scribe it to represent planking. One thing I learnt from experience; when ballasting vans, never rely solely on glue to hold the lead in place, but use a couple of self-tappers as well. Roofs never come off when you want them to...

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Liquid gravity (Deluxe models and others) is lead shot of varying sizes and can be persuaded into nooks and crannies to give a bit of invisible weight.

 

Mike.

Edited March 27, 2020 by Enterprisingwestern
Still getting used to a tablet keypad!

[Steamport Southport]

And before anyone suggests it.

 

Don't use PVA with the lead. It'll react.

 

 

 

 

Jason

[Bochi]

Does anybody use those little 90 degree magnet pairs to hold sides and base square? York Models do them, so do Proses: I got a couple of pairs but they seem a bit violent! Haven't got around to building using them yet though.

[Enterprisingwestern]

7 hours ago, Bochi said:

Does anybody use those little 90 degree magnet pairs to hold sides and base square? York Models do them, so do Proses: I got a couple of pairs but they seem a bit violent! Haven't got around to building using them yet though.

 

I can't get on with them for stock building, partly because of the unevenness of the outsides of the models, I find jigs and engineers squares more practical.

I find them more useful for building structures as they tend to have flatter sides.

 

Mike.

Edited March 27, 2020 by Enterprisingwestern

[brossard]

Agree with Mike.  A small square works well.  A cutting mat with grid markings helps to keep things square too.  The cutting mat and Mk 1 eyeball work for buildings.

 

John

[gary_lner]

On 26/03/2020 at 16:37, Phil Parker said:

 

To be honest, you'll be fine without those on the more modern kits. I've build dozens of Parkside kits and never used a broach (used them on other kits!) and rarely a drill bit.

 

To fit bearings, I put a drop of MekPak in the hole, let the plastic soften and then shove the bearing in. No need to drill.

 

The glass is essential but you don't need anything special - an old mirror will do the job.

 

The most important thing is to get started. Like most jobs you can read all you like but will learn more the first time you build a kit. It might not be perfect but you'll be surprised what you find out. Remember, this is just model railways. If it doesn't work, no-one dies!

Thank you for the encouraging words Phil. I'm looking forward to getting started now. Hopefully I'll have some progress photos in a few days.

 

Regards Gary 

[gary_lner]

17 hours ago, davefromacrossthepond said:

Gary,

Be careful.  You are entering an environment which is very addicting!

Dave

Thanks Dave I think you may be right there.

 

Regards Gary 

[gary_lner]

10 hours ago, WM183 said:

HI Gary,

 

Parkside kits are wonderful. They come complete with everything but paint and glue, and build up into wonderful models. Some of the plastic brake bits can be a bit fragile, but other than that there are no problems. The tools I'd recommend for a first kit are pretty similar to those already mentioned:

 

Good hobby knife and extra blades. I like Swann Morton knives and no 10 and 10a blades

 

A couple cheap mini files. Pound stores or cheap tool vendors often sell sets of 5 or 6 of different shapes. Don't use good Swiss files on plastic!

 

A cutting mat with a grid. Saves your desk top and gives a guide for building things square.

 

Wire, 0.5 and 1 mm sizes along with drills of the same size and a pin vise. You'll break a lot of the little bits, buy them in bulk from Chinese sellers on eBay.

 

A small machinists square is nice, as are a pair of tweezers but neither are a necessity. 

 

Parkside kits in 7mm have compensation built in so are easy to build square. In 4mm use a mirror as described above.

 

Glue - I use tamiya plastic cement. It comes in a handy bottle with a screw top and a brush applicator. Open a window, it's stinky stuff!

 

I paint mine by spraying with a spray can of flat black primer ( this does all the brake bits and frame!) and then I paint the body, roof, etc with Vallejo paints by brush.

 

Have fun. They're great kits!

 

Amanda 

Thank you for the great information Amanda. The tips about painting will come in use aswell. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Regards Gary

[gary_lner]

9 hours ago, gobbler said:

Gary

 

When you start, you won't want to stop!

My glue of preference is tamiya extra thin, in a little cube shaped bottle.

 

My trusty scalpel, my favoured blade is a 10A

 

A metal square is recommended. 

 

You'll find later on there are wagons you'll want but cant get.  Peter tatlow's books on LNER wagons will become a must.   Then you can start a bit of scratch building.  Have a peek at my thread.

All the best.

 

Keep safe and have fun.

 

Scott

 

Thank you Scott I think you're right once I start I won't want to stop. I'm not in total lockdown yet so I can pace myself lol. I'll be sure to have a look at you're thread.

Thanks once again 

Stay safe aswell

 

Regards Gary

[gary_lner]

6 hours ago, Philou said:

Hi, just from my own experience having started some Parkside kits this week - my first ever as before those it was all Airfix (tho' I still have some unbuilt to start too).

 

A word - take care with Butane-1-one (Ethyl Methyl Ketone) same as MEK (just doesn't have quite the same 'ring' to it (unintended organic chemistry pun there!)) as it is very volatile and don't sniff it as it's not very good for your health.

 

I'm using Tamiya liquid cement (in the square bottle) applied with a fine brush. Unfortunately it doesn't have the same capillary action as MEK so needs to be applied sparingly. I'm taking two days to construct a wagon - as I'm taking care to remove flashing and mould lines first. I assemble the underframe to the base first as the buffer beam (those wagons that have them) gives me a datum from which then to assemble the body. I allow that to 'go off' over night then finish the brake assemblies the next day.

 

If the underframe is assembled correctly the wheels will end up square (in a vertical plane) as there is a little play in the top-hat bearings should you not have a piece of glass. What I did find was that the tube wagon 'crabs' almost imperceptibly due to the two sole bars being not perfectly placed opposite each other - take care on that, it's worth while. I shan't make the same error with the extra-long CCT van!

 

Having built Airfix wagons, I find that the instructions are somewhat less clear and the illustrations a little, shall we say, amateurish compared to the Airfix ones of yore. Also, the plastic is rather thinner (perhaps more accurate in profile in that respect) and is more flexible - but nontheless quite nice when put together, tho' the lack of locating lugs for some parts can be disconcerting at first.

 

A question: I am limited in the variety of paints that I can source around here and I'm primarily stuck with acrylics. What can I use as a base coat to ensure that the acrylics will adhere to the plastic?

 

Take care out there everyone,

 

Cheers and good luck with your models,

 

Philip

Hi philip

Glad to see I'm not the only one tacking the plunge with some kits. Good luck with yours and thanks for the advice.

 

Regards Gary