locomotive kits 30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER

[Mallard60022]

21 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

Many thanks Phil, I was a little concerned about disturbing your work but it was, I think, worth the extra effort.

I will probably be painting the wee beasty next week.'

Kind regards,

Richard B

I wouldn't have minded had you had to unsolder the whole damn thing! It's looking like a very good wee beastie. 

Now we just await the announcement from Hornby, that an H15 of this particular build, is imminent!

|TB

Phil

[hayfield]

2 hours ago, 30368 said:

Having made some adjustments to the mesh the chassis now runs well in forward and reverse.

 

I have removed the N15 style pipework feeds to the boiler clack valves and replaced with CVs and feed pipes that are accurate for the H15. I have fitted the very small splashers fitted to this design. The reversing lever has also been repostioned and other detail added. Next will be the footsteps and injector pipework under the cab.

 

Wizzing away in forward gear.

 

Woops! someone has bent the top lamp iron....

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

I have been silently watching your thread,  I have a DJH N15 in the to build pile, think I should be putting at the top of the to build pile. A super bit of modelling

[30368]

18 hours ago, hayfield said:

I have been silently watching your thread,  I have a DJH N15 in the to build pile, think I should be putting at the top of the to build pile. A super bit of modelling

Hi John,

 

That is really very kind and much appreciated. I am still a novice really having started about 10 years ago with loco building and 2 years ago on (serious) layout building. So I tend to jump in and make the best of what are often very old and perhaps poorly designed loco kits. I particularly like the B16/1 although where it fits on my layout I have no idea but I'm not too worried.

 

Re Phil's H15 kit - a lot of the work has been completed by Phil and very good it is too. I am a bit of a fan of the H15 - for a number of reasons - but such great variation in such a small class is appealing. When my version of 70D is closer to completion I will have a special "H15 Day on Shed" - ah the way we indulge ourselves in this hobby!

 

Good luck with the N15, Urie or Maunsell?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[hayfield]

40 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

 

40 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

 

Good luck with the N15, Urie or Maunsell?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Richard

 

Not gone that far yet in decision making, I also have a Wills (Finecast) kit to build using a SEF chassis

 

I like building rather than playing

[30368]

30524 is almost complete - just needs couplings and a few vacuum and steam heat pipes and it is ready for painting. I plan to fit Hornby cylinder drain cock pipework.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited April 2, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

30524 is painted and lining (buffer beams to do) is almost complete. Phil has said it wants it to be very careworn so the special powders will be applied next. Valvegear also needs additional staining.

 

First image untreated, second trimmed and adjusted a bit.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Mallard60022]

Oooooooof. This is like seeing a Grandchild for the first time. Lost for words here Richard. Transformation after transformation with top results.

I hope you can run it in for some time on Basingstoke as my layout is far from ready to entertain this beauty .

I thank you from the heart of my bottom for doing such a superb job; it looks bloody amazing...already.

Have a great weekend.

Phil

 

[30368]

4 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Have a great weekend.

Phil,

 

Thanks so much for your kind words and I will run it for a bit until you are ready for the loco. I had a quick look at the early stages of your layout on this site and your track laying is so very good.

 

524 looks very different already. I have very lightly sprayed the underframe with "frame dirt" and the tender bogies likewise. Next stage will be weathering with powders and washes. The benefit of using powders is that if, at a later stage, your prefer a cleaner loco you can wash most of it off leaving the nooks and crannies still mucky as would have been the case in the full scale world. 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Made a start on the weathering. More to do.

 

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

OK Phil, this is the final version of 30524. I will leave it to you to fit couplings and coal. I will run it for a bit before I arrange handover. Hope it is ok. It is better than my 30475.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[John Tomlinson]

A very good outcome, you've done especially well to get the cabside lining to fit the curves like that.

 

A question please, IIRC H15 drivers were 6ft, so have you used 24mm or 23mm wheels (either being right with some tyre wear), or indeed something in between?

 

John.

[30368]

40 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

A question please, IIRC H15 drivers were 6ft, so have you used 24mm or 23mm wheels

 

Hi John,

 

They are 24mm drivers, and are, as far as I know, those supplied with the kit. Phil can always correct me if I am wrong. The drivers on my 30475 are a little (0.4mm) undersize. They were supplied with the kit directly from DJH and have much reduced flanges which, on code 75 track, can be a problem. I plan to replace them with the latest Markits wheels.

 

I have just coupled the loco to the tender and it all runs pretty well and is very quiet apart from the noise from the tender axles which sounds ok.  I have taken a video of the loco running past the shed on my iphone but have no idea of how to get said video onto my PC. Further investigation required!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited April 9, 2023 by 30368

[Mallard60022]

40 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

Hi John,

 

They are 24mm drivers, and are, as far as I know, those supplied with the kit. Phil can always correct me if I am wrong. The drivers on my 30475 are a little (0.4mm) undersize. They were supplied with the kit directly from DJH and have much reduced flanges which, on code 75 track, can be a problem. I plan to replace them with the latest Markits wheels.

 

I have just coupled the loco to the tender and it all runs pretty well and is very quiet apart from the noise from the tender axles which sounds ok.  I have taken a video of the loco running past the shed on my iphone but have no idea of how to get said video onto my PC. Further investigation required!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

I think it was wheels as in the Kit, but my Brain doesn't go back to 2018. The Centre ones were either slightly Flange reduced already, OR I think I did it after advice, due to the really very tight wheel base.

Thanks for the Pics. That looks exceptional Richard and I thank you so much for your dedicated and rapid work. 

Do keep it and run it is on yours. Pop some loose Coal in there to make it look OK. Then hope it doesn't fall over and spill it!

I've got to consider the fitting of the 'Apparatus for the extra C'! I'm also up to my ankles in Polystyrene at the moment and Engineering possessions will probably last months.

Now, I understand you are an Arthur-holic. I admire you for coming out over that. As a piece of rehab I am donating my part built Arthur to Basingstoke. I said donating! I do not need it any more and it is going mouldy.

When I pop my clogs, consider it a piece of my legacy and it will make me feel as if I still have something working after I've been scrapped.

I have a U and a U1 to build so it's go to go to make space!

Catch up soon.

Phil 

 

[John Tomlinson]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

 

Hi John,

 

They are 24mm drivers, and are, as far as I know, those supplied with the kit. Phil can always correct me if I am wrong. The drivers on my 30475 are a little (0.4mm) undersize. They were supplied with the kit directly from DJH and have much reduced flanges which, on code 75 track, can be a problem. I plan to replace them with the latest Markits wheels.

 

I have just coupled the loco to the tender and it all runs pretty well and is very quiet apart from the noise from the tender axles which sounds ok.  I have taken a video of the loco running past the shed on my iphone but have no idea of how to get said video onto my PC. Further investigation required!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

Thanks for this.

 

I just had a look on your layout page at the H15 day - what a picture!

 

Your signals are looking very convincing too.

 

Best wishes,

 

John.

[30368]

2 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Now, I understand you are an Arthur-holic.

 

Hi Phil,

 

524 now has coal - glued and (Matt) varnished in place.

 

I am not so much taken with the N15's as all Mr Urie's and Mr Drummond's locomotives.

I do, for sure, have a bit of a fixation on the H15s firstly because of the wide variation of appearance in such a small class and secondly they were a bit of a trailblazer - two outside cylinders driven by outside Walschaerts valvegear - easy to service and prepare for the road. Mr Churchwards's Saints were also very influencial as were many of his designs. I also rather like the look of Urie's engines, very Scottish.

Thanks very much for the Arthur transfer to 70D - plenty of scope, they had a fair few over the years. I must have about 10 of them now, perhaps more, I can't remember.

 

I now move, perhaps, to building that pride of Basingstoke, a 700 class 0-6-0, or maybe I should move to phase 2 of the layout.....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Now that I have finished my (PDK) model of 700 class 0-6-0 30368, I thought I would add a few snaps to this thread.

 

Phil (Mallard60022) gave me the just started PDK kit since he could see little point in building it up given the Hornby model, besides he is very busy on building his model of the LSWR Main Line a bit further west than Basingstoke, where 30368 is pictured. Phil's H15, that I completed for him, is in the background.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

I have to confess, I should be moving on with Phase 2 of my 70D layout but I'm afraid I have decided instead to build up my Judith Edge V4 2-6-2 kit purchased a few years ago. Why? well it will be a challenge having to roll from brass sheet my first taper boiler and I like challenges and second the A1 Loco Trust next project after the P2 is to build the third V4. The V4 etches are first class but do require a fair amount of scratch building too. Anyone know where I might get a suitable smokbox door and, less likely, a firebox backplate?

 

I am using a High Level coreless motor and gearbox.

 

Decided to give one of my Merchant Navy Pacifics a run. 35009, the last one to receive a modified cab, runs past Basingstoke Shed - something from another planet really compared to the worn out ancient Drummond collection on shed at the time. The MN's must have seemed like space ships alongside the many ex LSWR locos that were their contemporaries. The model is a PDK kit built by me some 5-6 years ago.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

Edited May 10, 2023 by 30368

[Mallard60022]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

I have to confess, I should be moving on with Phase 2 of my 70D layout but I'm afraid I have decided instead to build up my Judith Edge V4 2-6-2 kit purchased a few years ago. Why? well it will be a challenge having to roll from brass sheet my first taper boiler and I like challenges and second the A1 Loco Trust next project after the P2 is to build the third V4. The V4 etches are first class but do require a fair amount of scratch building too. Anyone know where I might get a suitable smokbox door and, less likely, a firebox backplate?

 

I am using a High Level coreless motor and gearbox.

 

Decided to give one of my Merchant Navy Pacifics a run. 35009, the last one to receive a modified cab, runs past Basingstoke Shed - something from another planet really compared to the worn out ancient Drummond collection on shed at the time. The MN's must have seemed like space ships alongside the many ex LSWR locos that were their contemporaries. The model is a PDK kit built by me some 5-6 years ago.

Kind regards,

Richard B

Back Plate will be well hidden so why not try to fabricate one from bits OR maybe use a busted RTR one that's suitable but would need modifying? Alternatively SEF and PDK will do spares if you ask nicely; especially SEF. One of the LNER ones must be adaptable?

Nice Packet by the way. I think they looked superb in Blue.

Phil

[30368]

I have taken Phil's advice and emailed Paul at PDK to order all the castings I will need and requested a V2 backplate and B1 smokebox door both of which will need some adapting. Meanwhile I have started frame construction. One thing I like about the Judith Edge kits is the feeling that since the etches are so accurate it is very close to building a full size loco but easier to handle....

 

The etches don't include any EM/00 crossmembers, I confirmed this with Michael and he sensibly suggested using spare brass spacers protemp. This I did when the frames were in the frame jig.

 

Instead of drilling holes in the frames I clamped the frames to the three spacers as shown. I added a 0-5mm washer to the spacer to ensure the frame width was to drawing.

 

I could now fit the frame parts (motion bracket, cylinder front and back etc.) to the frames, first ensuring that they were central, and then solder. Further frame bracing will be necessary.

 

 

From the back, the running plate support bracket, the motion plate, the cylinder back and lastly the cylinder front all soldered in position.

 

 

Hope it is ok so far Michael?

 

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Richard B.

Edited May 11, 2023 by 30368

[Michael Edge]

Looks fine so far, I didn't know you had the Poppy jig but that looks a good idea. I take it you're not bothering with the partial compensation.

[30368]

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

I take it you're not bothering with the partial compensation.

 

Hi Michael. Thanks for the "watching brief", much appreciated. Yes that's right solid chassis.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

The rear pony truck has been assembled, I added brass bearings to aid smooth running. I then focused on the rear frame extensions that supports the firebox and cab. My plan was to located these critical components in the mainframe slot behind the trailing driver by fitting a beam in the slot which would protrude beyond the mainframe (and be the mounting point of the curved plate support for the firebox to be found on all LNER wide firebox locomotives). The frame extensions, which also have a slot in, could then be positively located at the mainframe end.

 

Before proceeding, one final shot of 30368 now it is weathered. When I grow tired of the look I will clean the loco with cotton buds.

 

 

To return to the K4, this image shows the pony truck and the two frame extensions you can just make out the slots in the mainframe and in the extensions.

 

I have soldered the beam to the mainframe slot and offered up the L/H frame extension ready for soldering.

 

Remember what I said earlier about Judith Edge kits being closer to building a real locomotive, this image reinforces that view. Solder still to clean up a bit more.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Mallard60022]

That's a very nicely designed set of Frames and the Truck Sides. NO surprise from this supplier.

Looking good Richard.

P

[30368]

2 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

That's a very nicely designed set of Frames and the Truck Sides. NO surprise from this supplier.

Hi Phil,

 

Yes agree completely, first class etches and Michael is always ready to help out.

 

Final update for today.

A set of secondhand 23mm Markits wheels fitted or rather a set of modified 23mm wheels fitted.

 

Rather like my H15 builds, the space between, particularly middle and trailing wheels, is very limited with little room for brake hangers so the wheel flanges were reduced by mounting them on an axle very securely and placing them in a pillar drill to remove flange material by a file. The wheel flanges are still effective but there is just enough space for the hangers. The motion bracket also needs to be reduced since it is designed for EM and 00 scales.

 

I use a series of wooden dowls and, as here, bits of tube to bend running plates and boilers. Best to take is very slowly and keep checking profiles.

The running plate temp fitted to the chassis.

 

I had a spare High Level Road Runner gearbox that I hoped would do but the motor would not clear the top of the frames so a HiFlier is on order.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

Edited May 13, 2023 by 30368

[Michael Edge]

Looking very good, bear in mind that I normally use Gibson wheels and clearances are designed with those in mind.