locomotive kits 30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER

[30368]

12 hours ago, DLT said:

Aha, a Westward T9.  I have one of these to build (a thankfully untouched kit) and it looks a beauty.  Any tips?

 

Hi DLT,

 

I built the T9 a long time ago but given that I cannot recall any real issues with the build. You are correct, if I was going to built the T9 now I would go for Highlevel kit. A good kit for its time I would say.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 6, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

I have dug out my Maunsell "Q" class 0-6-0 built from an SEF body and chassis kit. LIke the "U" class, it had not run for years but did stagger up the line at first asking. It is very low geared so it always seems to be creeping along. Cleaned up the wheels and did not much else.

 

The SR version of the Midland/LMS 4F ?

My goodness is that an advertising hoarding I see? End of the scenic part of the layout all too obvious!

 

I have either built or purchased a model of most SR(BR) 0-6-0 tender loco's (I still need to build my Branchlines O1 kit) so I thought I might do a little feature on them rather like the H15 piece.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 10, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

Next, and probably the last for a while, dug out is the C2X, a rare Brighton product on the SW Division and unlikely to have appeared on 70D. You never know though. This was built by me from one of the very early Nu-Cast Partners re-engineered kits. It was very easy to assemble and benefitted from a fair bit of scratch built additions. I think that the SEF/Branchlines partnership are doing a great job for our hobby.

 

The C2X needed some work. I had to add an additional pick-up assembly to the top of the chassis, something I did not do orginally because I thought it might detract from the under boiler "view". The pickups fitted under the chassis were poor although I left them in place, belt and braces. If I was building this now I would have added tender pickups too.

 

The C2X was duel fitted (air/vacuum) so lots of additional pipework everywhere! Also all those high level lamp/board brackets on the front of the running plate.

Builds into a good representation of the prototype and now runs very well.

 

Apart from H15's I also have an SR 0-6-0 habit too.....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 11, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

I have decided that there is time before I return to building my 70D layout for one more, rather special project.

 

Way back in the late 1960's my late brother and I bought a Triang "Winston Churchill" 4-6-2. I still lived with my parents then so it never ran on a layout. It became damaged loosing half its cab. Some time in the 1990, or perhaps the 1980s, I bought a detailing kit for a WC/BB pacific which consisted mostly of whitemetal casting and a few etches. I reapired the cab with plasticard and fitted the detailing kit and then "weathered" the result. It was then put in a box and forgotten about. Bringing up a family was much more important.

 

When my model railway interest re-ignited some time in the 20 "noughties" the battered old model was put in another box together with any old bits that I thought might help me one day to rebuild the thing. The bits included a Comet chassis etch and some wheels and a Branchlines motor and gearbox. More bits have been thrown in the box most of which I have no idea of the original maker of the etch or casting.

 

So.... I am now going to resurrect this tired old model and build a new chassis for it. I also plan to have a go at covering the loco body with very thin brass sheet to replicate how the original WC/BB really looked in service. I know that this has been done before but I can't recall who it was that did so.

 

Some pictures of what will become "Watersmeet" 34030.

 

It's rather gruesome...

 

Some of the assorted bits, chassis coming along fine.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 13, 2023 by 30368

[John Tomlinson]

I think the covering of a WC in thin brass was done by Tim Shackleton, probably in his book about detailing RTR plastic locos.

 

Interesting though, the ancient body actually has a lot of quite fine detail judging from your photo. Those guys and gals in Margate 50+ years ago did rather well!

 

John.

[30368]

1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:

I think the covering of a WC in thin brass was done by Tim Shackleton, probably in his book about detailing RTR plastic locos.

 

 

Thanks John, you are correct.

 

Re the body, perhaps my memory is flawed and it is a slightly later body? I did though add a lot of detail to it it has though been around for ever, or so it seems.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Mallard60022]

On 13/08/2023 at 17:40, 30368 said:

 

Thanks John, you are correct.

 

Re the body, perhaps my memory is flawed and it is a slightly later body? I did though add a lot of detail to it it has though been around for ever, or so it seems.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Could there be an alternative layering to thin Brass? I hate to suggest pristine Cooking Foil? It's quite tough, can take the form of the object being 'wrapped' and also strong enough to take 'light etching'. Finished off with coats of whatever (Varnish?) to give it a cover of strength? Cheap and cheerful? A rubbish suggestion?

I have an early Hornby Body and Tender you could practise on.

Phil

[30368]

4 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Could there be an alternative layering to thin Brass? I hate to suggest pristine Cooking Foil?

Hi Phil,

 

Yes a very useful suggestion although the 1 thou brass sheet I have is very close to foil. I will have a shot at the brass approach and if this don't work I will give foil a go although we get through a fair bit of cooking foil for cooking....baked potatoes - with the right filling just delicious. My goodness I'm starving now.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Had some time today to sort out the cylinders, piston rods and slidebars. The result is looking accurate to drawing and has been constructed from leftover kit etches and scratch building. Using Alan Gibson wheels will create a bit of a fiddle with the leading axle wheels since the slide bar gets in the way of fitment but this can be solved.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 15, 2023 by 30368

[30368]

All the Alan Gibson wheels are now assembled and fitted to the frames. Gearbox assembled and fitted. Motor is a Mashima 14X26 motor purchased many years ago.

 

Once the motor is in and the pick-ups fitted it should not take too long to complete the chassis. With the original WC the valve gear is very simple.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Motor and gearbox fiited to chassis. I have adapted some spare Hornby pick-ups to fit the chassis. The original WC/BB airsmooth casing means that the pick-ups can be situated on top of the chassis thus avoiding all the brakegear crossbeams etc.

 

Motor connected up and run and plenty of room for a flywheel.

 

 

 

Problems with the coupling rods though - I used a spare valvegear etch from my scrap box but checking the axle journal spacing resulted in a 7' 3" equal wheelbase which should be 7' 6" - 7' 3" so I have a Comet valve gear etch on order. The connecting rods are ok.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 22, 2023 by 30368

[DLT]

Looking very good.  Was that scissor-brakegear difficult to assemble?

[30368]

Just now, DLT said:

Looking very good.  Was that scissor-brakegear difficult to assemble?

 

Hi DLT,

 

No not really, as you know I'm sure, each hanger is in two parts that need to be soldered together. It would be easy to get that wrong unless you looked at a drawing and some good images or, like me, you have a number of models of Mr Bulleid's wonderous pacific's both Hornby and kit built.

 

This re-build of a very old Hornby model is a bit nostalgic really, the old thing was my very first attempt at detailing a model before I had built any loco's. I am looking forward to covering the plastic moulding with sheet brass (or cooking foil!).....I think!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

[30368]

Brakegear all fitted, a few snaps of the motor/gearbox running in. Awaiting coupling rods.

 

 

A quick trial fit to the veteran body - "never raced or rallied" but could do with some TLC....

 

 

KInd regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 22, 2023 by 30368

[DLT]

How good is the old Kitmaster body?  And is it a good starting point?

[Mallard60022]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

Brakegear all fitted, a few snaps of the motor/gearbox running in. Awaiting coupling rods.

 

 

A quick trial fit to the veteran body - "never raced or rallied" but could do with some TLC....

KInd regards,

Richard B

Don't bother painting that body, it looks quite authentic, for one that self combusted, already!

[30368]

51 minutes ago, DLT said:

How good is the old Kitmaster body?  And is it a good starting point?

 

It's not a Kitmaster body but a very early Hornby "Winston Churchill" with a detailing pack fitted by me many years ago. I know that it is ghastly but that is the challenge, make it a worthwhile addition to my fleet of WC/BB pacifics. I hope to improve on the current Hornby version. We shall see....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[pete_mcfarlane]

1 hour ago, DLT said:

How good is the old Kitmaster body?  And is it a good starting point?

I think the answer is 'a good starting point for a lot of work'. I have two slowly progressing. Main issues are the cab (it's too wide for the 8'6" locos and two narrow for the 9' batch), and the front end. All fixable with work. 

 

Albert Goodall's instructions on how to do this are on the RT Models site, along with most of the bits. https://www.rtmodels.co.uk/albert goodall wc,bob paper overlays instructions.pdf

 

The Hornby based one in Tim Shackleton's book also looked really good. 

[DLT]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

 

It's not a Kitmaster body but a very early Hornby "Winston Churchill" with a detailing pack fitted by me many years ago. I know that it is ghastly but that is the challenge, make it a worthwhile addition to my fleet of WC/BB pacifics. I hope to improve on the current Hornby version. We shall see....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Yes I understood that Richard, I was just throwing another question into the "pot"

[30368]

3 hours ago, pete_mcfarlane said:

Albert Goodall's instructions on how to do this are on the RT Models site, along with most of the bits. https://www.rtmodels.co.uk/albert goodall wc,bob paper overlays instructions.pdf

 

 

Many thanks Pete

[30368]

16 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Don't bother painting that body, it looks quite authentic, for one that self combusted, already!

 

Well observed Phil! If the cladding plan does not work then immolation may be the only answer...

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

[Pebbles]

With the body there is nothing that a dip in caustic soda won't put right. I used to often clean off my badly painted Airfix models in this way.  Just make sure that the exothermic reaction has quietened down before immersing  the body.

[30368]

Whilst I am awaiting the coupling rods I have started on the body. I used some Gluebuster to remove most glued on items and this, as noted previously, is also a good paint stripper. I followed this with a good scrub in soapy water. I then filed off the rivet detail etc.

 

 

All original Bulleid pacific casing follow the taper on the top of the firebox. Whilst this is represented in later Hornby bodies, not this old lag so this feature was created with a file. Image shows the brass sheet that I will use to clad the body.

 

First section in place, looks ok....so far. I will do the flanks next and then move towards the boiler section.

 

The next section fitted. I have left off a few set bolt (?) heads for these will be holes where a few are missing. I have also used a ball head (the blue thing in the background) to slightly destort the surface of individual panels as in the prototype.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Richard B

 

 

 

Edited August 23, 2023 by 30368

[Mallard60022]

21 hours ago, 30368 said:

Whilst I am awaiting the coupling rods I have started on the body. I used some Gluebuster to remove most glued on items and this, as noted previously, is also a good paint stripper. I followed this with a good scrub in soapy water. I then filed off the rivet detail etc.

 

 

All original Bulleid pacific casing follow the taper on the top of the firebox. Whilst this is represented in later Hornby bodies, not this old lag so this feature was created with a file. Image shows the brass sheet that I will use to clad the body.

 

First section in place, looks ok....so far. I will do the flanks next and then move towards the boiler section.

 

The next section fitted. I have left off a few set bolt (?) heads for these will be holes where a few are missing. I have also used a ball head (the blue thing in the background) to slightly destort the surface of individual panels as in the prototype.

Kind regards,

Richard B

 

I've never seen Brass Sheet that thin. It looks like fun to work with, giving a great looking Panel look?

Transformational already.

Phil

[30368]

1 hour ago, Mallard60022 said:

I've never seen Brass Sheet that thin. It looks like fun to work with, giving a great looking Panel look?

Transformational already.

Phil

Thanks Phil, yopu can get it down to 1 thou, this is 2 I think.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B