Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

[NFWEM57]

Now that we know that P4 and a few other gauges are being catered for, should we should change the title to 'Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in N, 00, EM, P4 and other Gauges'.

 

Or better still, 'Using and Modifying British Finescale Easy Assemble Point Kits' and include the tags for N, OO, OO-FS, EM, P4. 

 

I have added tags except OO-FS as there was no tag available.

Edited July 12, 2023 by NFWEM57
typo

[dasatcopthorne]

7 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

 

Be careful with using other rail stock. I've previously reported that PECO Bullhead 75 is slightly oversize to fit into the BF chairs. Try and force it and chairs pop off as they are more brittle than on the commercial rail bases.

 

It is a good point nonetheless and one for Wayne to consider finding some viable solution. The rail stock will not be cheap so supplying excess in every kit would be wasteful / erode the profit margin of the products.  During all my kit builds (B7s) I found the lengths supplied back then were more than adequate to deal with what you need to deal with extension issues.

 

On the other hand offering an "extended option" doubles up on SKUs with is also costly or timing consuming if instead they are packed off as "specials"

 

Colin

 

 

I'm using rail bought from EM Gauge Soc. Seems to fit well and also good for Exacto  chairs.

I wouldn't ha e there was too much h extra  cost but us punters would pay that anyway . Just a suggestion.

[hayfield]

8 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

 

Be careful with using other rail stock. I've previously reported that PECO Bullhead 75 is slightly oversize to fit into the BF chairs. Try and force it and chairs pop off as they are more brittle than on the commercial rail bases.

 

It is a good point nonetheless and one for Wayne to consider finding some viable solution. The rail stock will not be cheap so supplying excess in every kit would be wasteful / erode the profit margin of the products.  During all my kit builds (B7s) I found the lengths supplied back then were more than adequate to deal with what you need to deal with extension issues.

 

On the other hand offering an "extended option" doubles up on SKUs with is also costly or timing consuming if instead they are packed off as "specials"

 

Colin

 

 

 

Colin

 

According to a couple of sources on here, Peco bullhead differs from other suppliers in that it is slightly flatbottom, I have also been told that Scalefour society's latest code 82 rail is a very tight fit on their "Exactoscale Fastrack" bases. I think Wayne designed the chairs to fit code 75 bullhead (which Peco code is not) from one of the societies, also C&L and SMP should fit. It should not be as confusing as it is but I assume it is down to Peco' production requirements 

[JSModels]

11 hours ago, dasatcopthorne said:

I'm using rail bought from EM Gauge Soc. Seems to fit well and also good for Exacto  chairs.

I wouldn't ha e there was too much h extra  cost but us punters would pay that anyway . Just a suggestion.

 

As a fellow small manufacturer, I would say (and I am guessing here*) that the cost probably isn't the deciding factor.

 

Putting longer rails in is fine in principle, but in practice there's a limit to the lengths that will fit in the packaging. You can't just redesign packaging to be slightly bigger, you have to use what's available.

 

*Based on my own experience, "designing stuff" is easy compared to "designing stuff that will fit in a commonly available box size"!

 

Jonathan

JSModels 

[dasatcopthorne]

I would like to direct this to Martin Wynne.

 

I have seen your suggestion of where to cut the webbing to curve a turnout but I want to 'straighten' the curve of a left hand A5 turnout to for a 'Y'.

 

Where would you suggest I cut the webbing to accomplish this please?

 

Dave.

[martin_wynne]

14 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

I would like to direct this to Martin Wynne.

 

I have seen your suggestion of where to cut the webbing to curve a turnout but I want to 'straighten' the curve of a left hand A5 turnout to for a 'Y'.

 

Where would you suggest I cut the webbing to accomplish this please?

 

Dave.

 

Hi Dave,

 

See my previous post, but swap over the green and pink:

 

 https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/160234-using-the-easy-assembly-finetrax-pointwork-kits-in-00-and-em-and-possibly-p4/?do=findComment&comment=4701029

 

 

i.e. snip out and remove the green ones. Snip through the pink ones and lock them to the curve with a hot glue gun.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[dasatcopthorne]

14 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

 

Hi Dave,

 

See my previous post, but swap over the green and pink:

 

 https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/160234-using-the-easy-assembly-finetrax-pointwork-kits-in-00-and-em-and-possibly-p4/?do=findComment&comment=4701029

 

 

i.e. snip out and remove the green ones. Snip through the pink ones and lock them to the curve with a hot glue gun.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

And swap the blue to the other side/blade?

 

 

Dave.

 

[bradfordbuffer]

19 hours ago, NFWEM57 said:

Now that we know that P4 and a few other gauges are being catered for, should we should change the title to 'Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in N, 00, EM, P4 and other Gauges'.

 

Or better still, 'Using and Modifying British Finescale Easy Assemble Point Kits' and include the tags for N, OO, OO-FS, EM, P4. 

 

I have added tags except OO-FS as there was no tag available.

3mm 14.2mm gauge too!

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, dasatcopthorne said:

 

And swap the blue to the other side/blade?

 

 

Dave.

 

 

Hi Dave,

 

No -- blue is the straight blade/rail before you start curving. That depends on the hand of the turnout of course.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[BWsTrains]

And at the danger of stating the obvious, when doing these template cuts don't pre-cut your switch blades. The required length of these is dependent on your geometry. If you're using Templot, this will be clear from the various rail lengths it shows for your desired geometry.

 

Colin.

[Wayne Kinney]

Hi Guys,

 

Code 75 bullhead rail from both the EM Gauge Society or C&L Finescale will fit the Finetrax base chairs. SMP Code 75 bullhead rail is slightly thinner and has too loose a fit, unfortunately.

[Buhar]

There's a very good video about assembling these from James at Bexhill West. His is 18.83mm but the principles are the same.

 

Alan 

 

[Ian_H]

22 hours ago, Buhar said:

There's a very good video about assembling these from James at Bexhill West. His is 18.83mm but the principles are the same.

 

Alan 

 

Hi Alan, the videos from James are excellent, not just turnout construction bu switch machines, platform building, even cardboard coaches, lots of very interesting videos.

Ian

[Buhar]

I think James is a teacher and I suspect a pretty good one as his explanations and presentation are very accomplished. Mind you he has invested in some serious and expensive machinery such as the laser cutter.  It's good that he also sells some of his creations.

 

Alan

[makeitminiature]

Thank you Buhar and Ian_H for your kind comments about my videos.  I really enjoyed putting the Finetrax kit together.  It was so easy, and the finished turnout looks great.

The timber effect on the timbers is very nice too.  I will have it with me at Scaleforum and the Uckfield show should anyone wish to take a closer look.

 

James

[Dominion]

I have been procrastinating in the build of the shed entry for my layout as it requires a scissors crossover with a double slip on one corner and a 3 way tandem turn out on another.  That's 9 common crossing and 2 obtuse crossings. Before Wayne's kits I would have had to solder up all of those, any one of which is a task that reliably gives me bad headache !

 

I decided to use Wayne's kits to simplify the construction where I could.

Martin helped me iterate on a Templot design where the scissors crossings were not completely opposite each other so they could be adequately checked. (Thank you Martin)

 

In the first picture I am just offering up the printed bases without having done much cutting yet.

 

The next picture shows using some of the central printed timbers to align the K crossing rails.

The bottom 2 templates are in their correct position, the upper two are moved in closer to allow me to interweave the timbers temporarily.

 

The third picture shows the brass strips I soldered the rails to for the centre of the diamond.  At this stage I could still draw all 4 printed track bases away from the middle to allow later work to both the diamond and the bases.

I have since cut the brass strips back and mounted them on wooden sleepers, one at a time, to hold the diamond in gauge and to insulate the plus and minus rails.

 

A little care is needed when working on the bases like this to avoid cracking them. In some areas I have just used a knife, when getting closer to chairs I want to retain, in closer quarters, I used a razor saw or nibbled a little away at time with the knife, or filed.

 

I am using the OO-SF bases.  

Wayne's kits are extremely good !

Tom

 

 

Edited September 23, 2023 by Dominion
Punctuation

[BWsTrains]

Bravo!

 

Just looking at your photos is enough to give me a headache. Keep us posted on your progress, it is a most interesting extension from the simple base kits

[roythebus1]

Looks good! I've got to rebuild a curved double junction on my layout, I wonder if it will be possible with Wayne's kits?

 

I've just had a double slip and a left hand turnout from wayne, I built the double slip first and it worked out ok. Two problems, my existing track uses the thin sleeprs so there's been a bit of lowering of the underlay and packing of adjoining rails to level things out. the other problem on the double slip I noticed the switch rails move lengthways when the tiebar moves. I don't see any way to avoid this without cutting the switch rail and putting a fishplate on there. No matter, it runs a lot better than my home-made effort. Luckily mine was a B7 so the new one fitted like a dream.

[roythebus1]

Just finished fettling the double slip and found a dead short on one of the routes!! I didn't alter the wiring, double checked the insulation gaps on the slip, all ok. Turned the board over and found a relay had fallen out!! I use relays for switching polarity of the Fulgurex and tortoise point motors, they also change crossing polarities. All ok, missing relay found and plugged in!

[Dominion]

I think the central crossing is done now. It works well just pushing a wagon through. I will try it now with some jerry-rigged power.

This is all Finetrax except the pale brown wood short sleeper sections and the rust coloured Exactoscale chairs.

 

I have one of Wayne's double slips to add for the bottom left.

I will have to hand build the rest of the tandem for the top right.

 

I think there should not be a timber in the centre of the diamond as it is a 3.5 angled crossing but I added one to make the build easier and plan to leave it in place. Some of my other diamond timbering is a bit too close together for real life ballast maintenance but I am happy with the compromise to have allowed me to use Finetrax bases at all 4 corners.

Tom

[hayfield]

56 minutes ago, Dominion said:

 

I think there should not be a timber in the centre of the diamond as it is a 3.5 angled crossing but I added one to make the build easier and plan to leave it in place. Some of my other diamond timbering is a bit too close together for real life ballast maintenance but I am happy with the compromise to have allowed me to use Finetrax bases at all 4 corners.

Tom

 

 

Tom

 

I would have thought you are actually right. The problem is when both scaling down and narrowing the gauge (00 & EM) track plans it alters the placement of timbers in crossings and slips

 

Rail joints are usually supported by closer timbering and in some cases larger (J) chairs.

 

The common crossings are supported by timbers as are the crossing timbers on K (obtuse ) crossings / single slips, looking at Exactoscale plans 1 in 6 onwards there are timbers and chairs supporting the Elbow (centre bend), the GWR switch and crossing practice shows this on all crossings over 1 in 5.5, also states a block is used on 1-4 to 1-5 with no timber supporting the rail.  One drawing shows a diagram with 3 timbers very close to each other at the centre point, 

 

I do like the use of the special  chairs used, puts your work well above the norm

 

 

Edited October 1, 2023 by hayfield

[Dominion]

Wayne, have you considered designing and printing some insulated rail joiners ?

The Peco bullhead metal ones that go under the rail are very good.

but for insulated joiners the Exactoscale ones are very delicate, and the Peco n scale ones are chunky.

Would your print material be good for that or should it be something more flexible ? 

Tom

[Wayne Kinney]

Hi Tom,

 

I have designed and 3D printed them before, I think the resin material does hold up just about. I'll have a think about weather to offer them as a product on my website.

[NFWEM57]

7 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said:

I think the resin material does hold up just about.

I believe there are more 'flexible' 3D printing filaments but I am not an expert like others.  Certainly a market for it .

[billywhizz]

Hi Wayne. Is there any progress with the crossover kits?

Kind regards. 
Bill.