Chuffnell Regis

[Graham T]

Franken-table got a blast of primer at lunchtime.  The rivets I added to the tops of the girders still show up, which is a good thing - and now I see that the sink marks on the inner faces of the girders also still show, despite being covered with a thin sheet of plasticard!  That is not such a good thing, obviously...

 

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by Graham T

[MrWolf]

It is looking good though. The marks will probably disappear under a coat of paint. Even the original Airfix kits from the sixties have those marks caused by the ejector pins in the moulds. 

[Graham T]

Thanks Mr W.  I thought about trying to add another thin sheet of plasticard, but must admit that I was tending towards the "that's far too difficult" end of the decision-making process!  As you've probably noticed, I'm not exactly what you'd call a perfectionist...

 

So I think you've got it right - a coat of paint and then some judicious weathering to hide my sins!

[Graham T]

In other developments at Chuffnell regis, this evening has seen a lot of bodgery and hackery, but remarkably little profanity.  Yes, I was as surprised as you are.  The new track plan seems to fit where it touches, and the goods yard has some more space now...  I think the engine shed, turntable, and headshunt arrangement seems to work as well, although I'm not 100% sure about the positioning of the coal stage?

 

No point motors are sitting on top of cross braces, and although the sidings all have some curves to them I don't think any of them are too awful?  So, all the track has been cut to length, but I'm waiting for some insulated track joiners to arrive in the post before I can actually lay any track permanently (or at least what passes for permanent here; perhaps I should call it "temporary way"?) 

 

I did get some insulated joiners from a local model shop, but they don't seem to work at all well joining Code 75 track.  Whilst I'm waiting I can solder on all the droppers, and I also need to fettle some of the cork underlay to make sure everything is level.

 

Provided I can make all this work, I'm now wondering what I'll do with the big open space at the front of the layout.  All I've come up with so far is some open ground with perhaps a few trees on it?  I don't think it would be railway property as I can't imagine what they would put there?  Another access road to the goods yard maybe?  Any suggestions?

 

As always, comments are very welcome, especially the ones pointing out glaring errors I've missed!  Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by Graham T

[MrWolf]

It's not a huge space, I'd be tempted to just have a slightly undulating field there, rather than trying to cram in another feature. It will actually make the station area look bigger.

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

It's not a huge space, I'd be tempted to just have a slightly undulating field there, rather than trying to cram in another feature. It will actually make the station area look bigger.

 

That was the way I was leaning too.  More static grass!

[Graham T]

And another run of GW fencing, of course...

[Neal Ball]

6 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

That was the way I was leaning too.  More static grass!

 

Maybe a couple of smaller trees, but nothing that you will catch your sleeve on!

 

Its all looking good Graham.

[Graham T]

Morning Neal.  Yes that had occurred to me; I'll need to reach across from that point.  Perhaps I'll put some little cameo scene in there.  No idea what, but I think I've got plenty of time to figure something out

[Graham T]

I've managed to fit a short straight run onto the turntable as well.  I was wondering about adding a short stub of track on the engine shed side of the table, just long enough to hold a loco coal wagon?

[Gopher]

10 hours ago, Graham T said:

I'm now wondering what I'll do with the big open space at the front of the layout. 

Graham is it too late to construct a bridge with a bus on it 

[Graham T]

8 minutes ago, Gopher said:

Graham is it too late to construct a bridge with a bus on it 

 

Thanks Clive, that gave me a much-needed chuckle.

 

And to answer the question - yes, much too late!!!

[longchap]

1 hour ago, Graham T said:

I've managed to fit a short straight run onto the turntable as well.  I was wondering about adding a short stub of track on the engine shed side of the table, just long enough to hold a loco coal wagon?

I would rather realign the engine shed ( slightly toward the TT) and the road to it to provide a straight approach. This would allow the coal stage and an ash pit to sit more comfortably on the shed road.

 

Bill

Edited February 15, 2022 by longchap

[prtrainman]

9 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

That was the way I was leaning too.  More static grass!

Or maybe a potato field a la Little Muddle?

[Graham T]

3 minutes ago, longchap said:

I would rather realign the engine shed ( slightly toward the TT) and the road to it to provide a straight approach. This would allow the coal stage and an ash pit to sit more comfortably on the shed road.

 

Bill

 

Bonjour Bill.  Yes, I don't like the curve leading into the shed either.  It's like that to give a gap between the shed line and the brick edging that will go around the turntable, but I think there's space to at least straighten the track a little.  Perhaps the best way ahead would be to install the table, and then finalise the run of track into the shed?

[Graham T]

2 minutes ago, prtrainman said:

Or maybe a potato field a la Little Muddle?

 

That's a nice idea.  The area needs something a bit more than just a field a think, but also not so fussy that it detracts from the rest of the layout.  It should act as a lead-in feature, I suppose.  Anyway, plenty of time to think about this one, as all the scenery at the rear of the layout will need doing first - and that is going to take some work!

[Graham T]

Well, one benefit of re-laying all this track is that my soldering is getting better.  It's still a long way from being fine, but I'm getting good strong connections now at least.

 

It appears that my parcel from the UK with the insulated track joiners is now waiting for me at the local post office, so perhaps I can start laying the track this evening...

 

With that in mind, it's time for a few more numpty questions about wiring

 

As mentioned before, I'm going to use autofrogs on the single slip, and also on the new point I'll be laying.  All points are electrofrog.  So, I think I need to cut the two short wires under the point immediately before the frog, don't I?

 

Do I need to make any modifications to the single slip?  It doesn't look like any are required from what I've read, but obviously I want to make sure I've got that right before I nail it down!

 

Phil, you seem to know all about wiring - could you help me out here please? @Harlequin

 

[longchap]

6 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

Bonjour Bill.  Yes, I don't like the curve leading into the shed either.  It's like that to give a gap between the shed line and the brick edging that will go around the turntable, but I think there's space to at least straighten the track a little.  Perhaps the best way ahead would be to install the table, and then finalise the run of track into the shed?

I rather feel they need to be carefully considered as part of the same challenge, not in isolation, so here’s some thoughts to ponder.

 

Let’s try and get the motive power department correct in both prototype and functional aspects. Both need to be right to avoid compromises, so let’s remind ourselves of basic requirements:

 

TT: available space under the baseboard for installation and controls. To a moderate degree, it will possible to ease and adjust, or even ‘retrim’ the whole TT opening to achieve the optimal location if absolutely necessary. After all, it’s just basic woodwork, so with careful measurement, a razor saw, wood glue, c’sk wood screws and a positive attitude, all will be fine.

 

Engine shed: straight and unencumbered approach, ideally long enough for an external ash pit, which is separate from the internal shed inspection pit and a little shorter and shallower. I am unaware of any shed road having severe curves leading up to the ash pit. Exceptions are atypical, so best avoided.

 

Coal  and water: This is often sited on the shed road, but most branches don’t have TTs, so where they do, space permitting, they can be sited here. This would never happen in a main line shed, as there would be too many locos waiting to use the TT, which must not be held up by fuelling activity.

 

I would consider siting the TT as close the edge of the baseboard and sliding it up until it is just past the shed entrance, then position the shed to achieve a jolly straight entrance road. This provides the opportunities to ensure the TT’s not in danger of obstructing the shed road (as I understand your Mogul will stick over the end of the bridge!), plus it allows for coal and water facilities here if desired. That would also bring interest to barren space at the edge of the board. Otherwise, less is more.

 

Bon courage,

 

Bill

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, longchap said:

After all, it’s just basic woodwork, so with careful measurement, a razor saw, wood glue, c’sk wood screws and a positive attitude, all will be fine.

 

Have you seen my woodwork Bill?!

 

1 hour ago, longchap said:

Engine shed: straight and unencumbered approach, ideally long enough for an external ash pit, which is separate from the internal shed inspection pit and a little shorter and shallower. I am unaware of any shed road having severe curves leading up to the ash pit. Exceptions are atypical, so best avoided.

 

Coal  and water: This is often sited on the shed road, but most branches don’t have TTs, so where they do, space permitting, they can be sited here. This would never happen in a main line shed, as there would be too many locos waiting to use the TT, which must not be held up by fuelling activity.

 

Ok, so I need to jiggle things about to ensure a straight run into the shed, with an ash pit on it.  Any idea how long the pit would have been?  Also, I've read in some places that they the ash pit would be kept away from the coal stage...

 

Depending on the ash pit / coal stage positioning, it sounds as if I could feasibly have the coal and water crane on either the run into the shed, or on the turntable approach track?

 

 

[Graham T]

@longchap - also Bill, any ideas on the question ref modifying the electrofrog points?

[longchap]

55 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

Have you seen my woodwork Bill?!

 

 

Ok, so I need to jiggle things about to ensure a straight run into the shed, with an ash pit on it.  Any idea how long the pit would have been?  Also, I've read in some places that they the ash pit would be kept away from the coal stage...

 

Depending on the ash pit / coal stage positioning, it sounds as if I could feasibly have the coal and water crane on either the run into the shed, or on the turntable approach track?

 

 

Ash pits were shorter than the locos served and from memory about 4 foot deep. The fire was pulled out and dropped from the firebox into the pit, from which it was distributed over the surface of the goods yard as temporary surfacing and yes, it did turn into a right mess following heavy rain! Dimensions will be in one of the Paul Kareau GWR BLT books, but mine are well buried at the moment!

 

Branch ash pits were always sited on the shed road, as often was coaling, so I can’t comment on any assertion that they were kept apart, particularly bearing in mind all that ash paving. I’m quite prepared to accept however that there could be good local conditions to keep them apart. If someone knows the reason, I’d be pleased to learn of it.

 

Plan B of course is to place them on the TT road, which in your location would seem to help the general layout.

 

Oh, almost forgot, woodwork. If it's a bridge too far, then don't sweat it. Go to the alt plan!

 

Best,

 

Bill

 

PS dinner's on'table, so electro point can wait!

 

Edited February 15, 2022 by longchap

[Graham T]

Thanks Bill, very helpful as ever.  I have the Karau books so I'll take a look.

 

Bon appetit!

[longchap]

The alterations required to Peco points to effect frog polarity with electro from points have been very well documented over the years, across the model railway community. You need to cut out two small pre-wired sections from underneath the points, bond stock rails and insert IRLs to the frog rails at the heel of the point, then you need a means of switching the polarity of the frog to match to polarity of the selected route to avoid short circuits. It only sounds simple once you've done a good number and got them right, so tale a look at http://www.009.cd2.com/turnouts.htm

 

I did all this on a test plank with Code 100, but abandoned the test piece when Code 75 bullhead trackwork hit the scene. These points are very DCC friendly, needing no alterations or IRLs, just hooking up the pre-wired frog to your polarity changing method of choice.

 

I'm sure that there will be plenty more topics on here dealing with this. Beware of youtube though, as there are some seriously poor communicators there, failing to pass on their knowledge.

 

How are you handling polarity control?

 

Best,

 

Bill

Edited February 15, 2022 by longchap

[Gopher]

On 13/02/2022 at 22:21, Graham T said:

Think I'd better add a buffer sometime though, before we have a runaway ending up in the river...

Graham - bit of a poor photo, but Mainly Trains GWR buffer stop kits are excellent.  They are available via Wizard Models.  Two versions white metal and brass.  These are  MT247: GWR Buffer Stop Kit (cast brass) .  Just add sleepers.  I wanted to replace my long serving Peco stops, with something more proto-typical.  More expensive than the Peco versions though.  

 

Shame about the bus on the bridge.  Maybe for your next layout. 

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, longchap said:

The alterations required to Peco points to effect frog polarity with electro from points have been very well documented over the years, across the model railway community. You need to cut out two small pre-wired sections from underneath the points, bond stock rails and insert IRLs to the frog rails at the heel of the point, then you need a means of switching the polarity of the frog to match to polarity of the selected route to avoid short circuits. It only sounds simple once you've done a good number and got them right, so tale a look at http://www.009.cd2.com/turnouts.htm

 

I did all this on a test plank with Code 100, but abandoned the test piece when Code 75 bullhead trackwork hit the scene. These points are very DCC friendly, needing no alterations or IRLs, just hooking up the pre-wired frog to your polarity changing method of choice.

 

I'm sure that there will be plenty more topics on here dealing with this. Beware of youtube though, as there are some seriously poor communicators there, failing to pass on their knowledge.

 

How are you handling polarity control?

 

Best,

 

Bill

 

 

Thanks again for that Bill.  I've got some Gaugemaster autofrogs, the DCC80.  I've done a lot of research and I know what to do to modify the electrofrog point; the question is more does it actually need to be modified if you're using an autofrog?  There seem to be conflicting views about that, and I don't particularly want to modify the point if it's not necessary.