The Meerkat Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 hi all. can the nem couplings still fit in the creedal thing with the loco or do i have to take them out each time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted February 8 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8 1 hour ago, RedgateModels said: the question is why you would put a very much budget decoder in a very much high end loco is also appropriate? because for the most part for a lot of operation it is sufficient to the task I guess? My Accurascale Deltic is fine running on a cheap Lais decoder, at a cost of some of the higher level functions. For me running on the mainline I really dont care about cab / engine room etc lighting, it just never gets used. All I care is that I can turn off the tail lights, and turn on the markers/headlight, because running on the mainline that is all that is relevant. After a bit of fiddling with the speed curve the running is no worse than other locos with better decoders. That said for my 56 I am torn between getting a decoder that can handle the full set of functions, or putting in a Lais chip for now before getting a full fat Loksound setup. (of course if I go down the latter route, theres every chance that like the aforementioned deltic it ends up with the Lais chip for a lot longer.) 51 minutes ago, Pete the Elaner said: JMRI is free to use if your system has a USB/serial interface. All you will you will need is a computer & lead. Most people will already have these. It makes very light work of programming. If the interface is only being used for programming, a SPROG connected to the computer's USB is a good option. I just wish they did a bluetooth version that could interface to an ipad rather than having to lug the laptop up to the workbench... Ive finally got round to ordering mine this afternoon, after selling my Hornby 56049 and a few other bits over the weekend to pay for it, It will become 56078 in unbranded triple grey as mentioned previously. Cannot wait for its arrival. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendle Forest Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 1 hour ago, GRUNFOS said: Have you tried Trains4U? They supplied a chip in mine that is setup for all lights and functions. They might be available separately. Thank you for the suggestion... they have been superb. Lokpilot decoder is on the way :) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_crisp Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 10 minutes ago, Pendle Forest said: Thank you for the suggestion... they have been superb. Lokpilot decoder is on the way :) A nice decoder that I use alot. Check out the JMRI decoder pro/ sprog setup as it's the only way I can understand this DCC coding malarkey... and then it's easy to remap functions to your preference. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_crisp Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 36 minutes ago, The Fatadder said: That said for my 56 I am torn between getting a decoder that can handle the full set of functions, or putting in a Lais chip for now before getting a full fat Loksound setup. (of course if I go down the latter route, theres every chance that like the aforementioned deltic it ends up with the Lais chip for a lot longer.) Lais? Not sure if they're a copy of DCC concepts..? Anyhow so many of both makes have died on me that I only use my remaining few for test purposes so I'm sticking to Zimo/ESU/Lenz these days. Of the non-sound variety to keep peace in my household ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 8 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8 17 minutes ago, Pendle Forest said: Thank you for the suggestion... they have been superb. Lokpilot decoder is on the way :) Top chap that Gareth ( @Trains4U ) 😁 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyT Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 I have installed a Bachmann 36-557 decoder. This gives directional head lights, front and rear marker lights at both ends independently controlled plus fans, without any programming, but both sets of dip switches have to be set to “DC Operation with Blanking Plate” otherwise no lights or fans. Andy 1 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 50 minutes ago, RedgateModels said: Top chap that Gareth ( @Trains4U ) 😁 Whilst I would love to take the credit, it’s John, Matt and Mark who are working at the shop and provide the great service! I was busy talking to a Japanese delegation about payment systems integration at the time… 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 2 hours ago, The Meerkat said: hi all. can the nem couplings still fit in the creedal thing with the loco or do i have to take them out each time? Mine has NEM Kadees fitted & is currently in its box/cradle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted February 8 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8 23 minutes ago, Trains4U said: Whilst I would love to take the credit, it’s John, Matt and Mark who are working at the shop and provide the great service! I was busy talking to a Japanese delegation about payment systems integration at the time… I hope it wasn't Fujitsu! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 17 minutes ago, zr2498 said: I hope it wasn't Fujitsu! i didn't want to say anything 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 19 minutes ago, Pete the Elaner said: Mine has NEM Kadees fitted & is currently in its box/cradle. thank you for that info, i leave mine on, tho in future i will go for magnetic ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 (edited) 5 hours ago, RBE said: hiya just a quarry, the dc rail 56, they don't have the cab aerials? Edited February 8 by The Meerkat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 3 minutes ago, The Meerkat said: hiya just a quarry, the dc rail 56, they don't have the cab aerials? The real one had them removed. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 2 minutes ago, RBE said: The real one had them removed. thank god for that or that was thinking not in the box lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliepetty Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 On 05/02/2024 at 21:03, Midnight-Freight said: I've just bought a DCC ready version and understand there are issues with the lighting when using other decoders. I've fitted mine with the Hattons decoder that came with their 66. At present I have headlight and marker lights working but no tail lights, fans or cab lights. Given the extra lighting functions the Hattons 66 had am I likely to be able to get the remaining functions working and if so could anyone offer any advice on how to go about setting it up? Unless you re-map the functions then NO. Are you talking about a Non Sound decoder here ??? DCKits-Legomanbiffo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 We have reasonable stock of the ESU 59629 Lokpilot 5 if you order from us and add in the notes that it is for a Cavalex 56, we will ship it with the correct profile loaded. http://www.trains4u.com/p/301268/ESU-Lokpilot-5-59629 10 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APT Fan Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 4 hours ago, andyT said: I have installed a Bachmann 36-557 decoder. This gives directional head lights, front and rear marker lights at both ends independently controlled plus fans, without any programming, but both sets of dip switches have to be set to “DC Operation with Blanking Plate” otherwise no lights or fans. Andy That's one of the decoders I'd be considering with it having 10 outputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ERIC ALLTORQUE Posted February 9 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9 6 hours ago, RBE said: The real one had them removed. Like how the hi vis matches the boxes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owentherail Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 18 hours ago, RBE said: That's very odd indeed. Can you send us an email to cavalexmodels@gmail.com with a close video to help us determine the issue. I'll give it a go later . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanbasher Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Good morning all, vast apologies to re-post an already touched on bit of information but I've scanned back through about 6 pages of this thread & can't seem to find what I was looking for 😐 Please can whoever posted the drive technique of a sound fitted example (something that involved F5 & F6 on a DCC remote) please re-post them? I've only had my Load Haul & DCR examples out for a short run each so far & I am blown away by the sounds. However, I'd like to see how someone managed to make it more realistic/more play value 😉 Thanks ever so much in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carver Bridge TMD Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Morning all Got my 097 the other day after some delays with Rails, and I absolutely love it. Been running it alongside my old Hornby 037 Richard Trevithick and I'm hugely relieved to see that it doesn't completely blow that one out of the water either, since Dickey T is an old favourite of mine I really didn't want to move her on. One question though, and it's probably pretty daft, I noticed that the colours between the two don't match at all. Is this two different eras of livery? Or has the Hornby one become discoloured with age? i have no idea why the uploader is choosing to flip the image over, its the right way up on my phone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted February 9 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9 4 minutes ago, Carver Bridge TMD said: One question though, and it's probably pretty daft, I noticed that the colours between the two don't match at all. Is this two different eras of livery? Or has the Hornby one become discoloured with age? It would be because Hornby have a complete inability to paint anything the right colour… 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 On 30/01/2024 at 08:22, RBE said: Hi tlm, I'm glad that you like the loco we are very proud of what we have achieved and it's great to see that customers are also enjoying the model. Onto your comments regarding DCC setup and driving. I think the issue here is that you are not driving the loco as we intended it to be driven. We took the decision early on to do our own thing rather than follow convention. The other issue is that not all people like to drive the same way and to cater for all is a hard task which is what led to the 'manual drive mode' F25 key to give effectively two set ups in one. In my opinion the best way to drive this loco is with F25 off and just use the throttle and drive lock but we were aware that some people like the manual brake so have added that in as an option rather than choose one or the other. If you are switching between F25 on and off while trying to drive then that is the issue right there, the intention is that you choose your poison and stick to it. Those that like manual brake etc keep F25 on at all times and those that drive throttle should keep F25 off. Of course F25 locks you out of manual flange squeal and two tone horns but we had to make a sacrifice somewhere and as we don't like driving with brake we made that the secondary mode so to speak (we had to choose one 🤣), we chose F2 for the two tone because on the Prodigy it is the only function that is none latching and the playable horns can be hard to play when having to turn them on then off and then the other on then off. But this of course clashes with the brake function. Driving with throttle either in yards or on the main couldn't be easier. Set the loco moving move the throttle to the desired speed and drive, if you want to coast hit F5 and throttle back the loco will spool down and rattle along the track, once at the braking point simply hit F5 again and the loco will re-aquire the set throttle speed, if that's zero it brakes, if it not it will slow down or speed up to whatever the throttle is set to. In this scenario the F5 key kind of works like a brake anyway. On manual mode you simply drive it the same way accept that you don't have to wind the throttle back but instead just brake with F2. If you are doing a drive lock coast then you don't have to disengage F5 but use the brake instead to stop, however if you did disengage F5 then it would still brake anyway so for me I prefer to not use the brake at all and leave F25 off. Just a note on F6, this is heavy train mode and should be off if shunting light in the yard. F6 as a mode has a high revving idle to simulate the loco being given amps to charge the compressor ready to take the train brakes of and move a large train. There is no need to be juggling F6 when doing yard moves. With F6 on the revs will never die to a proper idle as it's charging the compressor. The correct way to use F6 is to use it when you are about to get a heavy train going. You set F6 and wait for the revs to build up. Once revving you then notch the throttle forward and get the train going, once moving you add power and you will find the inertia slow to respond but the engine working hard with both fans spinning. You can leave F6 on whilst getting the train going or simulating the train working hard but if you then intend to stop or coast the train you should disengage the F6 and then do either F5 and throttle back to coast (and then brake if you are in F25 mode) or throttle back to slow the train in normal mode. The drivability of the loco was based on our real driver consultant's instruction of how he drove the real loco's so we wanted to replicate that. It takes a bit of a play to get used to how to drive it properly but once it all clicks it's crazy fun. Regarding the flange squeal, I would like to know what you dislike about it? The only issue that we have is that the hall sensor for auto squeal wasn't set sensitive enough for our liking by ESU and it wasn't discovered until too late that the sensitivity is hard coded in a chip on the main board (this is set to change on all future locos, as new chip tech allows this to be changed in CV programming which the older chip didn't) so was locked in, this prompted the addition of a manual flange squeal function to complement the auto activation, I don't think the manual option is a bad idea anyway as it allows it to be applied as and when needed. I witnessed a class 60 and train flange squealing in the yard at Willesden a few months ago when it was on the straight, so all good to apply just when you fancy a bit of track noise. As for the sound of the flanges themselves, they are speed sensitive so change sound dependent on speed and these were actual recordings from 56105 on the yard at Shrewsbury. To us they are the most realistic sounding flange squeals that I have heard to date, your mileage may vary. Anyway it's always good to get feedback and of course we welcome all comments, how else do we improve on what we deliver? Here's the driving advice. We also have a version of this in the manual under driving experience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 8 minutes ago, Carver Bridge TMD said: Morning all Got my 097 the other day after some delays with Rails, and I absolutely love it. Been running it alongside my old Hornby 037 Richard Trevithick and I'm hugely relieved to see that it doesn't completely blow that one out of the water either, since Dickey T is an old favourite of mine I really didn't want to move her on. One question though, and it's probably pretty daft, I noticed that the colours between the two don't match at all. Is this two different eras of livery? Or has the Hornby one become discoloured with age? i have no idea why the uploader is choosing to flip the image over, its the right way up on my phone The Hornby one has none of the sector colours correct. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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