Jump to content
 

Tavistock Junction Traction and Rolling Stock Maintenance Depot


The Fatadder
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

This is the plan for the limpets:

Number   Livery              Ribs      Tops

393000   Loadhaul           Even   ZKA
tbc           Grey Yeoman   Even   tbc  
DC390202   Dutch           Even   ZKA
DC390266   Dutch           Even   ZKA
390223   Dutch           Even   MKA
390230   Dutch           Even   MKA
390251   Dutch yeoman   Even   MKA
390318   Dutch           Even   MKA
DC390306   Dutch           Even   ZKA
DC390175   Grey                   Even   ZKA to convert
390283   Dutch yeoman   Wide   MKA to convert
390296   Dutch yeoman   Wide   MKA to convert
390155   Grey                   Even   ZKA to convert
 

I am also giving serious thought to adding one of the longer version as well for completeness...

 

@James Makin I dont suppose you have collected any late 90s photos of the limpets still carrying their old Yeoman logo. I remember you doing a model of one back in the day

 I have managed to find a couple of the odd spaced rib version with yeoman logo and dutch stripe, and with the logo and no dutch, but I really need to find a photo of a wagon with even ribs yeoman logo and no stripe....

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Still trying to work out exactly which project will hit the bench next, there are a few more WIP items than I would really like truth be told with

  • 37710 needing handrails
  • Gunnels still need the fixing cleats to the sides / one extended solbar
  • 950001 needs the new toilet tanks adding (and the missing side detail)
  • Vans for Wheal Imogen still need to be weathered (and there's the second Jon Hall Cargowaggon waiting finishing)

So of course I start looking at some OCA.....

While I carry on with researching the limpet rake I thought I would have a crack at improving the OCA along the lines James has detailed on his thread.  The Bachmann OCA was one of those really disappointing releases having a very nice chassis, some fine tooling on the body, but overly thick mouldings (particularly at the ends where the ribs + side wall are a scale foot thick.   The side thickness is similar between Bachmann and Cambrian (2mm vs 1.9mm), however at the ends Bachmann's are 4mm thick while Cambrians are 2.6mm.  On the prototype this is formed from sheet steel with thick ribs, not easy to replicate in plastic.  Bachmanns compromise is to the ribs to scale and add thickness behind it, while Cambrian went the other way so the ribs appear too thin (because the side is sticking out too much).  

 

My solution is along the same lines as James, crack out the b*£$%^d file and file it back to a similar thickness as the sides (which in my case I have left alone other than a little distressing on the top edge).    This is filed at an angle rather than square on (I actually carve a fair bit off with a scalpel first), this gives the illusion of narrowing the top but reduces the effort and risk to the plastic (after all this will be very thin once done.)

 

I did consider two alternate routes, cutting and fitting Cambrian or scratch built replacement ends  or drilling away the infill between the ribs, then filing back completely and adding a brass inner end.  if the outer rib had aligned with the side I would have given it a go, but as it steps slightly inboard I figured it more hassle than it was worth given I think the results are acceptable.  Still trying to decide if I am happy enough with the end result to do it on another 4 wagons, or if the rest will get sold off.  (The potential sale of the other 4 wagons was partly the driver behind doing this).

 

 

4571AFE4-F950-474E-9E47-237318DC273D.jpeg.ff539e49697d19fc8bd3090e009cf1d7.jpeg

In the above photo the top wagon is Cambrian, middle the modified Bachmann and bottom is unmodified Bachmann.  The modified wagon has just had a rough coat of a similar red brown paint to blend in the ends to check appearance and still needs a proper weathering job inside and out.

 

0D1377EF-0721-4EDF-88EE-A0AA631C111E.jpeg.5c2f37d516832cba18d732b062903222.jpeg

A side view of the converted wagon

Edited by The Fatadder
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

I never realised how back the ends looked until James Makin pointed this out recently on his thread - I've got a few that need looking at for various reasons but not sure I have the patience for filing down the ends! Hats off to you both on that !

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Before work today I finished off another mini project, converting an original Hornby coalfish body to the cutdown MAA type.  I don’t actually know when these were converted (I suspect there is a good chance it is going to be too late for me).

 

conversion of the original Hornby model is easy, remove the ribs from the ends and the lower horizontal rib.  The latter is then replaced with plasticard (set back by 60thou), along with the new ribs.

 

The other modifications were less involved, adding a chamfer to the top edge of the body with a file, and filling the holes for the Hornby handrail (which need moving to the other side.)


 

All that’s left now is to tidy up the lower edge of the ribs, add some brass sheet for the tops panel plates and paint.   (It would also be good to verify if they were active in 1998…)

 

the intention is to mix it with my MFA eventually.

 

F20144DA-DCDB-4D5B-B294-01D936E23BE5.jpeg

Edited by The Fatadder
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 31/01/2023 at 21:48, The Fatadder said:

The Kernow SPA?  I’d say it must be just as fat given the ends should be identical.  Such a shame as the basic tooling for the urchin was pretty well done without the battleship sides of the Bachmann OCA

 

speaking of which, inspired by @James Makin‘s latest work, I think my OCA will be next on the bench.  Either that or a box of limpets (and POA that are about to become limpets)

 

Hi Rich - offered up the two bodies last night, and the EFE Sea Urchin is definitely wider, so the SPA could be the correct width? Forgot to take a pic unfortunately

 

NL

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 01/02/2023 at 13:52, The Fatadder said:


 

I am also giving serious thought to adding one of the longer version as well for completeness...

 

@James Makin I dont suppose you have collected any late 90s photos of the limpets still carrying their old Yeoman logo. I remember you doing a model of one back in the day

 I have managed to find a couple of the odd spaced rib version with yeoman logo and dutch stripe, and with the logo and no dutch, but I really need to find a photo of a wagon with even ribs yeoman logo and no stripe....

 


Hi Rich!

 

Good work so far on the OCA!

 

I did have a look through my collection for the Limpets, sadly I have nothing immediately to hand but will share over should I find something!

 

I had a load of old pics saved from the much-missed Fotopic on an old PC but can’t retrieve, then somewhere I photographed an entire trainload of Limpets at Didcot in 2004 that featured both Yeoman and ARC examples but I have mislaid the CD the pics are on, but they are somewhere in the house, when I find them I’ll post them up! 
 

Cheers,

James

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Not a lot to show this evening, a small job which took a long time to achieve adding the two new roof panels to the other half of 950001.  This was added using Mainly Trains rivet strip glued into a channel that had been filed into the roof (this was the stage that took the time).

 

I think the only work left before I can start painting is to add these two parts https://www.flickr.com/photos/timhorn/6079962890/ although that does mean scratch building them (they were removed from the model as on 950001 they are in a different location).

19AD88C7-1A45-4AB2-BA88-3A967A96F26C.jpeg

Edited by The Fatadder
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

More weathering on the OCA (which now needs finishing touches and the floor weathering)


A start on a Hornby Rudd, it’s been kicking around various storage boxes for ages and has suffered for it (the missing steps I have ready to refit, the brake leaver has vanished completely.)  it still needs several more washes, but first up I am awaiting some Mainline logos from Railtec to finish it off.

The model is a mixed bag, all nicely tooled but it suffers from the same problem as the OCA in that combining scale depth ribs with an over scale wall thickness leaving a very wide top.  Made worse by even thicker wall thickness than the Bachmann opens (or Parkside kits).

edit; I was suspect on the width of these, looking wide next to other wagons and a lot wider than the Parkside kits.  Looking deeper into it confirms the Hornby Rudd is the correct width (but their Clam is too wide modelled to the same width.)  For Parkside it’s the other way round in that their Clam is correct but their Rudd is too narrow.   Much as I’d like a set of Clam, I don’t want to paint them.  I will be tempted if I see more cheap Rudd though.

 

Finally another Cambrian SPA that has started painting.  I hate painting Dutch (hence the Rudd above being Hornby rather than Parkside), the masking between grey and yellow isn’t good enough.   Now looking for a rustier prototype.  It was going to be a Pike with Mainline branding on Dutch, I think I will now do it as a ZCA with much rustier sides.

8261F10D-D863-4AD9-89D8-90A18FBFB922.jpeg
 

now I really should stop looking at wagons on the internet and start changing the FEP on my printer  so I can print some TTA tomorrow…

Edited by The Fatadder
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

After some discussion on the Sea Urchins elsewhere, here is the current state:364077AF-D5CD-4861-8B31-4FE6F834C3E6.jpeg.27517328aeef18f4032f5ff656cd6bef.jpeg

straight Cambrian build, needs under-frame details, buffers and suspension.

 

7005B364-36A7-4BEF-A2F3-FC9BE15E84F7.jpeg.6fe41bc238bc0d13776f36c6205eb7af.jpeg

cambrian with squared off top, it needs the suspension unit fixing (it has an S kits cast plate wiron/spring overlay to add).

 

D7725CD4-EA7A-4E2E-A1B4-BECD2338C873.jpeg.f6f837fd764df0bf255cd6a07a2c841d.jpeg

Cambrian, end modified with thin sheet top, needs paint (interior /chassis) buffers and underframe detail plus suspension 

 

80A99DB9-1196-4A8B-9E14-D7036127E2DF.jpeg.cce303d14dd26757e41dcfbcc8c2c2f9.jpeg

Ex SPA, needs a load to hide the incorrect floor (otherwise complete bar transfers)

 

1D5197FB-ACE7-44B5-88C6-F142D964B168.jpeg.2acf7d7ed2444dd5d59c58a90e4b1fc2.jpeg

scratch build with brake parts from a Bachmann VAA.  Needs step reattaching 

 

571B7D94-9114-4BA0-AF9A-DF83EAD40492.jpeg.8d7540f881e65cc9710117580fff0b71.jpeg

SKits ex VDA, needs one suspension unit reattaching 

550D4642-0F94-4545-9AB5-26F49FD336B4.jpeg.8fa83a8facdeb86f152e7ef8d833e54d.jpeg
ED3D3189-929E-461B-856E-C36E0A1B0261.jpeg.8f7550067951244a768b8436f31b5e66.jpeg

two scratch build needing buffers, suspension  and brake gear, the latter will be awkward as I can’t find suitable parts so with will have to be fabricated.

9C19324C-F303-4F29-9561-B5C8D0E7AC88.jpeg.91df76512011fded16b99b48caad7cb9.jpeg

another straight Cambrian build, complete 

 

5F2BE8DB-3514-4AC4-AACC-A5A9B7CB8991.jpeg.ed28e0e6cedd61f60230487d6d6a2883.jpeg

Another Cambrian with the top squared off, probably will be grey with yellow top edge.  Needs paint, suspension, buffers and underframe detail.

 

930E343E-B633-4821-AAD3-266D0D0AE5AD.jpeg.f119f0ad3e1107a679d636b10ffc7411.jpeg
Another Cambrian with the top squared off and end replaced with thin sheet, probably will be grey with yellow top edge.  Needs paint, suspension, buffers and underframe detail.

00DBC2CD-D988-4F85-A404-2FCA6F49E881.jpeg.636d0e072a09a4b6302e2e34ed65e839.jpeg

One of my favourites, Cambrian Sea Horse sides with new ends and spill plates added.  Needs paint finishing 

7637E7FF-6589-4CB9-A441-1EBE754250A2.jpeg.99f7078da65c9b332a1fa94fd66ba7ec.jpeg
ex SPA heavily rebuilt EFE model (now of course the correct width).

 

Finally there is the ex SPA mentioned this morning.  An identity for which it tbc but will need suspension, buffers and brake bits. 


I am trying to work out the transfer requirements, with the aim of getting a Railtec order placed in late feb / March.  I want at least 3 plus a Rudd and a 37/0 on Wheal Imogen for its shows this year.

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks very much for posting these. Really impressive collection there, I particularly like the scratchbuilt mainline and EWS ones. Hope you're able to find some details to go on them. I think I've already said but I had to use a mix of scratchbuilt and modified kit components to get the brake detail right on mine. 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 04/02/2023 at 18:10, EWS60065 said:

Thanks very much for posting these. Really impressive collection there, I particularly like the scratchbuilt mainline and EWS ones. Hope you're able to find some details to go on them. I think I've already said but I had to use a mix of scratchbuilt and modified kit components to get the brake detail right on mine. 

I have been shown a method using two different 51L parts combined.  Alas one of which seems to be out of production, so I’ve got the next closest to see what I can manage to solder together.  If not plan B will be 3d printing…

 

Starting to get a concerning amount of Engineers stock awaiting finishing.  Finding 14 dogfish yesterday which are now added to the queue for weathering / identities, joining the urchin, seacow, 3 salmon, limpets, Gunnel, PNA and OCA…..  Still they do make for a fun project.     Does make me wonder as to what’s the point of having so many different versions though.   Edit: forgot the MFA as well and the finished OBA and the 4 Turbot kits that were to be the start of another set…

 

The long term continuous run project will likely have 5 or 6 roads in each direction.

 

this will comprise:

GWT HST

Virgin XC

GWT 2 (either sleeper or HST)

DMUs

Freight Clay

Parcels or Engineers 

 

On Wheal Imogen and Tavy Jct it’s even more limited with the short fiddleyards meaning realistically the OBA, OCA and Urchin that are useful without needing a long rake.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

While the revised version of my TT072G tta is printing I’ve been doing some more work on engineers wagons. 
 

First up the Hornby Rudd, I managed to find the missing brake leaver so this has now been retrofitted.  Alas the buffer has proved more difficult to locate so for now I’ve fitted a spare off a scrap Parkside Rudd with a little modification.  It’s not perfect by any means but is better than nothing for now and will at least allow me to finish the model.  Following a prototype photo I am going for an ex Mainline owned example which has the gap between two ribs painted blue (up to the yellow stripe) with a Mainline logo still in place.  This is on my Railtec order along with the TTA numbers.

 

Another Dutch OCA has also been modified, this one getting a renumber and will be getting Transrail logos (on the same Railtec order). It has had the same modifications to thin the end as the previous example, leaving 3 more to go eventually (one of the EWS pair will be getting a respray into Mainline blue i think…

B75617A3-D6E7-429A-B6C2-4E61230C9BBE.jpeg.9a63d4b96b73016835eb3b8ea7b05a8f.jpeg
 

Two Sea Urchin (S Kits ex VDA and a Cambrian modified with square top edge) both had minor repairs to the suspension units.   I am going to order more Bill Bedford units to allow for the completion of 4 more urchin and 2 of the OCA. 
 

17AC9227-6F8F-4801-A7DA-2068D4D391EA.jpeg.83a1933008a8d42e6fe64633d2a2c13a.jpeg

 

finally I have been getting on with a little more on 950001, continuing with the roof.  The standard 150/1 has 3 roof vents on the centre line.  On one half I had already removed the rear of these when adding the new roof panels.  This coach also needed the middle vent removing (while the other coach needed the front two cutting off).  These are a separately fitted part, so I unplugged it, cut back to get a blank before gluing back in place.  After a coat of filler it was given a coat of paint to highlight imperfections before adding more filler (which is now drying).  On the first vent completed at the weekend a length of evergreen strip was then glued in place to complete the rib.  

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

At lunch I was playing around with a couple of scrap Parkside Clam (bought ages ago as a source of wheels in not amazing condition).  I have managed to strip them and I am now ready to start rebuilding.  The fit of parts still needs more fettling to tidy up the damaged joints from dismantling and paint stripping.  Alas I have ran out of MEK and lemonine isnt cutting it here, so its back in the box for now....

 

Now as I have mentioned previously the Parkside kit for the Clam is the right width (and their Rudd is too narrow) while the Hornby models are the other way round.  This makes for a big difference (>2mm), however the Parkside model remains a pain in the backside to paint.  

After the success with the EFE sea urchin (which by odd coincidence was the same amount over width), I am now thinking about buying a Hornby Clam on which I will cut off the sides, narrow and then refit at the correct width.  This in thoery will allow for building up some decent Clams.   I think I have seen photos of a mixed Dogfish / Clam set, and have definitely seen them mixed with other vac braked opens.  

 

In the mean time, while I wait for the new baseboard for the Wheal Imogen rebuild I think I will get to work weathering the dogfish for my short engineers set for Calne (and aim to finish the Urchins for DEMU).

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Inspired by the Accurascale release and the fact that the OO rebuild of Wheal Imogen suddenly means that my 66 is useful for the current layout, I have been cracking on with 66027.

 

there are two jobs left, light underframe weathering/exhaust weathering and doing something about the body colour.

 

The latter was first up, the Hattons EWS red is very flat (rather similar to Hornby’s awful GWR green).  On the Hornby great western locos a coat of Clear or a satin varnish can add some life to the flat colour, particularly when weathered.  So I’ve had a try at the same here:

6441AF01-02E0-48D8-912B-FEE460A8E3AB.jpeg.9e267262b2d7ef14a480cea4913f4772.jpeg
the top is the original finish and the bottom after the work was completed 

 

479A737B-9558-46D1-8CAB-AD027DB3201A.jpeg.281850d9d742ad9e0a4f7732b795166b.jpeg

 

I think it’s a slight improvement but still not quite there.  I think I will now do the weathering with a potential respray (of just the red) as a backup.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

A start oh weathering, the loco was still very new and in a lot of photos very clean in my period.  So I’ve focused on a little road dirt (with the fuel stain of course) and around the silencer / exhaust.  Of course looking at it from the side rather than from above I now see a couple of spots on the silencer that I missed which need reworking tomorrow….

 

 

it also lost an axlebox in the process (which after bouncing twice on the workbench has now vanished.  I will have another look tomorrow else will 3d print a replacement tomorrow night along with the new grills for 37521.  

B59494FD-8A49-4628-B39F-C315D0AF381E.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

4739BB43-29B2-4E3D-97CC-83CCE33BBCB0.jpeg.8e2208c34f1954c1fb2a239d2e1d6c8f.jpeg

 

a little tidy up on the weathering filling in the small gap in the exhaust soot and missing streak under the right hand cab.  The class 66 seemed to have a characteristic dirty line at an angle from the buffer up to the window even when pretty clean.  
 

I have also found and refitted the missing axle box (which had landed something like 3ft away from where I was working landing in a paint box!)

 

The final job will be adding a Dingham on the other end (now that the loco can be used on Wheal Imogen mk2).  It just needs a decision as to whether I am going to stick with my old approach of a Dingham loop on both ends and just a hook on wagons, or revert to the traditional Dingham operation.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Next little project while I wait for the new baseboard to start the Wheal Imogen rework is another loco needed for the show 60085.   In early 1999 the loco must have had some works attention as the body side was in a very clean condition with dirt focused around the exhaust an underframe.   As so often the case with the 60s dirt was already building up under the grills.

 

now the weathering is finished, the next job will be getting couplings added along with air pipes, however as with 66026 this is dependent on the decision as to whether or not I change the coupling approach (particularly given how much of a pain in the backside it is fitting new couplings to a 60)

67E9267C-3F1B-46F0-B68F-D03A7A86FB98.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Clean in 99 you say Rich? Very distinctive weathering before it had a wash.

60085 on a Banbury-Mountsorrel at Holmes Housse on 4 March 1999

 

(Linked from Flickr)

 

Just had a read through and a catch up, nice work on the HST fleet particularly. I need to bite the bullet and look at mine really.

 

Jo

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Steadfast said:

Clean in 99 you say Rich? Very distinctive weathering before it had a wash.

60085 on a Banbury-Mountsorrel at Holmes Housse on 4 March 1999

 

(Linked from Flickr)

 

Just had a read through and a catch up, nice work on the HST fleet particularly. I need to bite the bullet and look at mine really.

 

Jo

 I was very torn as to whether or not to do it in this condition prior to its wash.  I may yet go back and increase the weathering in the future.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

More class 60 work last night, way back when I originally converted what was then 60007 to P4 I had a lot of running issues with the loco.  As part of the investigation process I removed the brake gear and put away for later refitting that never happened. 
 

Now with the return to OO it was time to refit the missing parts.   I had planed on just buying new bogies, but before spending the money it’s always worth a quick look to see how difficult the job is.  Fortunately in this case it was easy (other than fiddling around with the pickups) and is now complete.  The P4 wheels were swapped with the OO wheels in 60081 (which is too modern for any of the layouts).   Which means 60059 is now ready for weathering (while 60026 still needs a set of OO wheels sourcing)

 

 

I have also finished preparing the new window frames for the other side of the Bachmann 150, which will be fitted at the weekend.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

This evening I have been playing around with class 37 windscreens trying to determine if im happy enough with a potential work around to avoid a full rebuild (or sale and upgrade).  
 

the windscreen is the biggest weakness of the last gen 37 once it’s been through an upgrade of the underframe with my resin prints.   I have once again been trying fitting an Extreme Etchings window etch to a Bachmann model without the base plate.  Of course this means the windscreen is proud of the body not recessed, but I can live with that over a flush panel with no frames.

 

the issue is that Bachmans glazing is rubbish and fractionally too small, I think the only option will be a set of laserglaze and a file to remove the recessed surround so that it will fit.  Just need to get some ordered….  The Loadhaul loco reuses the Bachmann glazing and just doesn’t look good enough…

 

 

F6152C4A-2253-4744-8328-1FB0BE4C4405.jpeg.45b8298cd49395f42c2e05849ca52e0e.jpeg9A703224-F954-4A5F-9E1D-1A8F461A59A4.jpeg.119762624bbf69820c05d7ee07d57d03.jpeg0D40FD6C-5283-43E1-8449-5F8B003AF65C.jpeg.46e752629006ec3f2a32a9b33ec9927f.jpeg848FFAC2-4F61-4E74-897E-4A34EFA2C3BA.jpeg.4ea356d239bb0b375f3c7b312413997b.jpeg

 

another bit of work this evening was focused around painting the window frames for my 150.   I’ve said before I wish I had never started this job, I can’t get a good paint match on the blue and the frames while better than the moulded plastic probably arnt better enough to justify the amount of work.   One side was done a while back, but I’ve found the rest of the etches so have been getting on with the other.  I need to get some Wales and West transfers to finish it off…  I also want to weather the side to blend in the different colours better.C5526C68-EFB5-475C-BB5D-6F146E798FFF.jpeg.5ee27a510cb9682aa08d38172da249a0.jpeg

 

the plan is that this will get the chassis I had been detailing for 950001 while the massive cast chassis from this will go in the departmental unit with fewer windows.  Though that may be a job for after Calne as it will require more effort getting the lighting working.  (Of course I still need to source OO wheels either way)

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Progress on a few projects at Swindon on Demu duties today:

 

The regional railways 150 has now been fitted with the remaining window etches (along with refitting the glazing).  It does still need a cab interior swapping to get the lights to work (before swapping back when it moves to its new chassis).  I have carved off the moulded door open lights to replace with a transparent option with an LED which still needs fitting.5E6D1E67-059B-4254-AEDC-7679B972A4C1.jpeg.f9cb74d11b7fef3b7bc6a86f9610f736.jpeg

 

Along with converting the ends on another one and a half Bachmann OCA (rail red and one EWS example that’s due a repaint).   Also managed for find a missing ladder for the last of the TTA prints (and build the point that’s needed for the Wheal Imogen rebuild).    Will be going over the Tavy Jct templot at some point soon to ensure it fully uses the finetrax range.

C0BB3202-0ADB-4D01-B7C0-613165D66632.jpeg.2ad240e665de842c1a51772cb40c262c.jpeg

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...