EFE Rail Class 143/144 Pacer

[rockmonkey]

21 hours ago, MajorTG said:

The Metro 144 sure does seem popular ! 
 

I’ve fitted mine with a Dapol Imperium2, but would like to dim the cabin lights a little. The decoder manual is lacking in detail. Has anyone managed to solve it ? 

 

I fitted a LOKSOUND V5 decoder and have dimmed the lights using JMRI decoder pro.  Slackening the screws securing each axle has allowed more movement of the axle to improve stability.  Will next be trying additional weights to improve running.

[Kaput]

22 hours ago, MajorTG said:

The Metro 144 sure does seem popular ! 
 

I’ve fitted mine with a Dapol Imperium2, but would like to dim the cabin lights a little. The decoder manual is lacking in detail. Has anyone managed to solve it ?

 

If I'm reading DecoderPro correctly, CV64 should be brightness for the lights. Says the range is 0-30 and the default seems to be 6.

Are the interior lights on a dedicated function? If so which output are they on?

 

Just realised above post says they are on AUX3.
I think you will also need to set CV53 to 44 to activate the dimmer on that function output.

Edited June 7, 2023 by Kaput

[MajorTG]

On 07/06/2023 at 20:57, Kaput said:

 

If I'm reading DecoderPro correctly, CV64 should be brightness for the lights. Says the range is 0-30 and the default seems to be 6.

Are the interior lights on a dedicated function? If so which output are they on?

 

Just realised above post says they are on AUX3.
I think you will also need to set CV53 to 44 to activate the dimmer on that function output.

That’s the ticket.  Thank you ! 

[Oulton TMD]

Having running issues with my efe rail class 144 on dcc. Have sent it back to Bachmann and was returned and told ran well on dc. It still runs erratic as it accelerates.  Any thoughts?  I have already set cv 53 to 0. Regards oulton TMD

[Bryn_Bach_Railway]

Has anyone else had issues with using a Zimo MN180N18 Decoder with one of these? Tried fitting one yesterday and the directional lighting works as expected (off F1/2 But only what F0 is active) as does the locos motor performance. However the interior lighting was non-controllable and instead was constantly flickering on and off very quickly. Not sure if it’s a faulty decoder, faulty model, or just an incompatibility between the pair.
 

I did try fitting the stay alive after testing and discovering this to try and solve the issue, but broke the decoder due to the wires being too big 🤦🏼‍♂️ so there’s another one on the way to replace it. 
 

the model was fitted with a gauge-master decoder before and the interior lights were constantly off, so I’m thinking this is maybe just a faulty decoder? Any help is much appreciated :)

 

 

 

EDIT:

 

turns out it was just me being silly and not reading the instructions properly. Was a simple fix but swapping CV 124 to a value of 128 to swap the functions 3 & 4 from logic level to switch 

 

Edited June 30, 2023 by Bryn_Bach_Railway

[richierich]

On 20/06/2023 at 07:00, Oulton TMD said:

Having running issues with my efe rail class 144 on dcc. Have sent it back to Bachmann and was returned and told ran well on dc. It still runs erratic as it accelerates.  Any thoughts?  I have already set cv 53 to 0. Regards oulton TMD

That’s interesting how one motor is running freely, and the other isn’t turning at all. Hence why the performance especially at low speed is so jerky, because the free running motor is fighting the less free running motor.
 

is the problem the motors aren’t matched or one is duff?  Or is it how they are wired up and electronics on the PCB?
 

I imagine it’s something you can fix with decoder setting, unless each motor has its own decoder. 

[russellwar]

On 06/06/2023 at 11:01, Dicky L said:

Following on from my previous posts I have now added weights to the underframe of the power car. I am now very happy with how the unit runs. 

thanks for the idea. These weights fitted easily and will sure be useful for other projects 🙏

[russellwar]

Ok here’s my summary and questions:

 

Picked up the red and beige one as it’s my modelled region. The Damage sustained from factory in 🇨🇳 via 🇬🇧 to 🇨🇭 was just one of the handrails behind the doors, which had popped out and fell on the floor as I was opening the box. Luckily I thought it was part of the model, as I hardly noticed the handrail. It took me a couple of views to work out what the missing part was and where it went.

Followed it up with an order for a Dapol and rails connect next 18 decoder as they were the only ones in stock and it’s the first time I ever had to use one. I put the rails in first, ran fine on the rolling road, but only function 1 worked. I tried the Dapol decoder and got both cars working as expected (need to look back at that post as I seem to remember someone saying how the interior lights dimmed).

 

Knowing it all work I tried the rails decoder again but I am thinking it needs a 6 function decoder to work all 4 light options.
 

Is this correct or any way I could get lighting on dependent on direction and then cabs and interior on 1&2 with the rails decoder 🤔

 

lastly, is it correct that the non drivers end cab light is on depending on direction travelling??? I am assuming that thats

if the guard was in there, but no idea for sure?

 

Russell

 

 

Edited July 30, 2023 by russellwar

[charliepetty]

On 29/07/2023 at 20:41, russellwar said:

Ok here’s my summary and questions:

 

Picked up the red and beige one as it’s my modelled region. The Damage sustained from factory in 🇨🇳 via 🇬🇧 to 🇨🇭 was just one of the handrails behind the doors, which had popped out and fell on the floor as I was opening the box. Luckily I thought it was part of the model, as I hardly noticed the handrail. It took me a couple of views to work out what the missing part was and where it went.

Followed it up with an order for a Dapol and rails connect next 18 decoder as they were the only ones in stock and it’s the first time I ever had to use one. I put the rails in first, ran fine on the rolling road, but only function 1 worked. I tried the Dapol decoder and got both cars working as expected (need to look back at that post as I seem to remember someone saying how the interior lights dimmed).

 

Knowing it all work I tried the rails decoder again but I am thinking it needs a 6 function decoder to work all 4 light options.
 

Is this correct or any way I could get lighting on dependent on direction and then cabs and interior on 1&2 with the rails decoder 🤔

 

lastly, is it correct that the non drivers end cab light is on depending on direction travelling??? I am assuming that thats

if the guard was in there, but no idea for sure?

 

Russell

 

 

All decoders need the CVs mapping to work all the lighting featues.

 

Charlie

[Markn]

Finally a pristine GWR version. Glad I held off from that weathered monstrosity now!

Edited August 2, 2023 by Markn

[adb968008]

9 hours ago, Markn said:

Finally a pristine GWR version. Glad I held off from that weathered monstrosity now!

It was clear it would come, the dusty one was just a bonus EP.

 

i’d imagine the same for RR livery.

 

Thats nearly a fait a complis on the other one at this point, unless efe do a 142 body next ?

 

looking at the range though it looks more are coming?

E83023 and E83032 havent been accounted for yet.

Edited August 2, 2023 by adb968008

[richierich]

Is there a consensus view regarding which DCC decoder suits these and maximises the operation of the lighting functions?

[Butler Henderson]

On 06/06/2023 at 10:01, Dicky L said:

Following on from my previous posts I have now added weights to the underframe of the power car. I am now very happy with how the unit runs.

 

Whats the sharpest curve you have it running round?

[Dicky L]

On 19/08/2023 at 16:02, Butler Henderson said:

Whats the sharpest curve you have it running round?

2nd radius

 

[scouse889]

I see the pristine GWR ones have hit the shops. Does anyone have one who can comment on the colour match with Hornby and Bachmann GWR green stock?

[Butler Henderson]

Model Railways Direct have the Provincial one on offer at £162.47 https://modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/special-offers.html

They also did have the  WY Metro one at that price but have sold out although now claiming more stock in 14-21 days.

 

I did get one of the WY Metro ones from them before they sold out. Have set the interior lights comparable to the rear cab lights.CV53=44 and CV64=30 using an overpriced Dapol Imperium 2 which is a Lais 860015 minus its stay alive connections and heat shrink -  Digitrains are sold out of the Lais decoder but there is an ebay seller  https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/936366319

Edited August 27, 2023 by Butler Henderson

[richierich]

This might be of interest to some folks out there. 
 

I recently bought a brand new EFE Rail E83022 Class 143 001 and upon testing it run about as well as a Hornby R867 Class 142 early twin motor model.  

 

So did an investigation as to why. Rather than repeat it all here, here is my blog posting 

 

 

Edited August 28, 2023 by richierich

[andyman7]

I've just taken delivery of a BR-era one and can't get it to couple. It's one of those infernal multi-pin couplings but unlike the instructions which just say to place on the track and offer each coach up to each other, the pin plug on mine is massively out of alignment. Before it goes back, any suggestions?

 

 

[andyman7]

1 hour ago, andyman7 said:

I've just taken delivery of a BR-era one and can't get it to couple. It's one of those infernal multi-pin couplings but unlike the instructions which just say to place on the track and offer each coach up to each other, the pin plug on mine is massively out of alignment. Before it goes back, any suggestions?

 

 

 

 

OK I've got it coupled. But the end lights are not behaving, they all come on at both ends when the model is running one way but nothing shows when it goes the other way. I have toggled the switches but they just turn the end lighting function off completely at each end, and I've tried removing and refitting the blanking plate in case that was the issue. It is definitely coupled correctly with all pins engaged. It rather looks like a wiring fault but has anyone else had any experience of this?
It actually runs rather sweetly so a shame if it has to go back. Top photo shows what lights up at both ends in one direction; bottom shows what I get in the other direction

Edited September 5, 2023 by andyman7

[Butler Henderson]

I had to raise one car slightly to get the connector to align properly on mine, otherwise the lower pins went in the upper socket. Maybe that is what has happened. Try reconnecting it on a shelf it a height where you can clearly see the connector and if neccessary raise one car slightly as needed with card under the wheels.

[adb968008]

I’d send it back, the electrics are a nightmare on these units, especially around the coupling area, you dont want to be rewiring that when you have a warranty to do it for you.

Edited September 5, 2023 by adb968008

[Rhydgaled]

16 hours ago, andyman7 said:

I've just taken delivery of a BR-era one and can't get it to couple. It's one of those infernal multi-pin couplings but unlike the instructions which just say to place on the track and offer each coach up to each other, the pin plug on mine is massively out of alignment. Before it goes back, any suggestions?

 

 

I had the same problem with my ValleyLines one and showed it to my engineering-minded brother. He said that coupling was too fragile for regular use and that, even if I had got one which was straight and would couple as-per the instructions at first, it would soon break if I was taking the model on and off the layout. My mother agreed that this was a rather poor-quality item given the price and, combined with the fact that I couldn't turn some of the lights off (I use analogue control and either wanted no lights at all or ONLY the red/white head/tail lights as seen on my Hornby 153s and old-tool Bachmann 158s), I decided to return it for a refund.

 

A real shame as a ValleyLines 143 has been on my wishlist for ages. Since returning this one I've been waiting in the hope that sufficient spare bodies, wheels and chassis units would become available to allow be to build my my own analogue one with no lights and sensible couplings at a more-reasonable price - so far not so much as a spare lightbulb has appeared.

[andyman7]

I waited until I could get this one a bit cheaper - at over £200 given the issues described I couldn't justify it but at £166 I could. Now the rational logical approach is of course to return it for replacement. However, whilst not cheap, at £160 this now equates to the kind of price one gets to with a kit, wheels, motor, sundries.
The inter-car coupling I have got together. It is a short unit so doesn't need to be coupled and uncoupled.
This one runs well - no noisy, cogging motors, speeds seem well matched, doesn't shoot off.
Decoration is fine; no missing handrails etc.

I know the lights work because the come on at BOTH ends in one direction only. 
 

I could return for a refund; I can (as of now) still get an exchange as there is another in stock - but will it have the same fault or just present a different set (poor running would not be a good substitute for dodge lights); or do I treat as I would a kit project - at some point take it apart and either trace the fault and rectify or rewire?

 

Thoughts?

[adb968008]

32 minutes ago, andyman7 said:

 

I could return for a refund; I can (as of now) still get an exchange as there is another in stock - but will it have the same fault or just present a different set (poor running would not be a good substitute for dodge lights); or do I treat as I would a kit project - at some point take it apart and either trace the fault and rectify or rewire?

 

Thoughts?

Imo If you can swap it, do so.

ive got 3 EFE ones and with a bit of extra weight they are fine, your price is good.

 

But these are a bit of a challenge to fully strip down and rebuild, and they do have some odd shortcut / interesting design decisions, hence use the warranty first if thats an option.

 

If the couplings at an angle its likely you could unseat the cam box assembly, which for whatever reason also uses the micro thin wiring, and also incorporates the wiring upto the roof.. all of which has minimal slack in it (which is why they either struggle on tight radius track.. or break the wiring)… getting that coupling spring reassembled in the cambox under that wiring requires several visits to a holy place for redemption… hence let them do it.

 

I too was hoping on spares for a realtrack one i have, but so far no efe spares have been forthcoming online, I didnt spot any returns at the Bachmann “practically perfect” sale in May either.

Edited September 6, 2023 by adb968008

[andyman7]

I've repaired a Realtrack one in the past so I do know about the nightmare wiring!