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Were any of them any good?


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Most of the negativity in all of the hobbies/interests I am familiar with come from a body of opinion within each that act as gate keepers and consider their opinions to be the truth and truth which should define the hobby. Something I find amusing is that you only have to change a few words and you could lift many comments from an audio, photography, model railway or cycling enthusiast and drop them into any of the others. 

 

I  enjoy reading about the interests of other modellers and if I visit an exhibition I almost always end up spending most time enjoying layouts of subjects I know nothing about and under other circumstances would never think about. There was an inspirational US logging layout a few years which was just stunning. I  have no interest in North American logging railways but the modelling was fantastic and despite my lack of interest the subject fascinating. Yet, I also have my own interests and my modelling is driven by what I want and my own interests.  I  love talking about those interests but if others have zero interest in them that's fine, and if they think I am a crackpot or deride my model choices why does it matter?

 

One reason I enjoy talking with those who love classic and vintage model and toy trains is they tend to have a straigth forward and genuine love of their hobby and very rarely seem to get into gatekeeping or judging others.

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48 minutes ago, Mike Buckner said:

 

Why does a mirror interchange left and right but not top and bottom?

 

 

2 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Because it doesn't.

 

Its all a trick of the light.....  🙃

 

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1 hour ago, Mike Buckner said:

 

Why does a mirror interchange left and right but not top and bottom?

 

 

Because left and right are relative to you, but up and down are relative to the ground. 

 

If you stand facing north with your arms outstretched, then your right hand points east. Turn around and face the other way, and your right hand is still your right hand, but it's now pointing west. Face east, and your left hand is now your north hand and your right hand is now your south hand. And so on. Left and right move with you whenever you move.

 

Put a mirror in front of you when you are looking north, and your east hand in the mirror is still the east hand of your body. Turn around (and take the mirror with you), and your west hand in the mirror is still the west hand of your body.

 

Up and down, though, don't move with you when you move. Stand up straight, and your head is at the top. Stand on your head (assuming you're capable of it!), and your feet are now at the top instead of your head. When you look in the mirror, whether standing upright or standing on your head, the top of your body is still top of the mirror and the bottom of your body at the bottom of the mirror, just as the east of your body is still the east and the west side of your body is still the west.

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4 hours ago, Mike Buckner said:

 

Why does a mirror interchange left and right but not top and bottom?

 

 

There was a QI episode (Toksvig, not Fry) that addressed this problem.

Even after explainations and demonstrations, the panel was still scratching their collective heads....

 

I thought it was quite straightforward!

 

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And it is straightforward. We are symmetric about a vertical plane, that slices through the spine to the breastbone, and neatly bisects the crotch, and that leads to our 'embedded' body image of left and right. Turn sideways on to the same mirror, and the front of your body is in the same place as the reflected image and likewise the back. The mirror is telling the truth, it's our 'body model' in the brain that deceives.

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11 hours ago, Mike Buckner said:

 

Why does a mirror interchange left and right but not top and bottom?

 

 

That's only in the northern hemisphere.  In the southern hemisphere it interchanges right and left.

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7 hours ago, Torper said:

 

That's only in the northern hemisphere.  In the southern hemisphere it interchanges right and left.

And you disappear up your own drain pipe, if you try looking at your image in a mirror, while straddling the Equator. 

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My simple rule of thumb is that there is only one way to determine if you are modelling correctly, are you having fun? If so carry on, if not rethink what you are doing. I am a member of the scalefour society but also dabble in other gauges and scales as the mood takes me. There are a few modelling police around but you can cheerfully ignore them as you couple your new model of Lion to some BR mark threes. . 

 

 

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44 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

Overall dimensions are about right but Hornby lengthened the cab to fit the Ringfield motor in, the engine casing is correspondingly shorter.

That sounds confusing to sort out, I have a couple of kitmaster 08 kits, might stick with them. 

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The Wrenn/Hornby Dublo model has a great big screw head centrally situated in the top of the body.  This screw connects the body to the chassis.  No attempt has been made to hide it  - indeed, I can't see any way of doing so - and It completely spoils the model IMO.  Why it was designed like this is beyond me.

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Motorising and improving the KM/Airfix plastic kit 08 should be possible; the biggest problem is probably the coupling rods, which are quite flimsy in 4mm scale.  HD/Wrenn and Lima beefed them up considerably on their RTR models.  Quite a bit of work, though, you'd have to povide scratch-built brakes and rodding, a floor, and full cab detail.  I suspect that, unless you specifically wanted lower gearing than the Hornby or Bachmann models (which both run very well out of the box and are well detailed and to scale to start with), you would not bother, especially if you were going for a wasp-stripe livery (most of them over most of their lives).  The plastic kit has raised lines to assist with this, but of course those would have to be removed for any 'scale' credibility.

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13 hours ago, Torper said:

The Wrenn/Hornby Dublo model has a great big screw head centrally situated in the top of the body.  This screw connects the body to the chassis.  No attempt has been made to hide it  - indeed, I can't see any way of doing so - and It completely spoils the model IMO.  Why it was designed like this is beyond me.

Primarily because the main market was as a toy?

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14 hours ago, The Johnster said:

Motorising and improving the KM/Airfix plastic kit 08 should be possible; the biggest problem is probably the coupling rods, which are quite flimsy in 4mm scale.  HD/Wrenn and Lima beefed them up considerably on their RTR models.  Quite a bit of work, though, you'd have to povide scratch-built brakes and rodding, a floor, and full cab detail.  I suspect that, unless you specifically wanted lower gearing than the Hornby or Bachmann models (which both run very well out of the box and are well detailed and to scale to start with), you would not bother, especially if you were going for a wasp-stripe livery (most of them over most of their lives).  The plastic kit has raised lines to assist with this, but of course those would have to be removed for any 'scale' credibility.

I have a crownline chassis kit for mine so no problem in that respect, I haven't noticed any pain guide lines on the body kit however. 

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Perhaps I was thinking of the 03, then.  Might be worth checking out if Hornby or Bachmann can provide the cab insert as a spare part; the part numbers can be obtained from the downloadable service sheet pdfs.

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20231015_093922.jpg.acfa037970c2c4de94442a9fe3322bf7.jpgWhat a fascinating topic.

It's really interesting to hear different views and opinions.

I have been down that path where Ive owned all the latest and greatest ultra detailed models from all the  manufacturers.

Strived to build the perfect model railway. Where every detail is as good as I could make it.

Been down the DCC route and it just didnt feel like I was enjoying it anymore. 

I drive on the 1 to 1 scale railway and I could never quite get it to feel quite right for my tastes.

A little while ago, I found an old Dublo 3 rail set kicking around.

I set her up and ran it around and enjoyed it so much that I actually started selling off all my newer models, ripped my old layout apart, the funds from which more than paid for a decent sized collection of dublo 3 rail. I built myself a "train set" and just played trains.

I keep buying all these non running 3 rail locos for parts, but with a minimum of fuss keep getting them all running. Cosmetically I leave them alone, as I feel the little nicks and bumps give them character and tell a story of their life.

They are bullet proof, easy to work on and most of all great fun. The only tools you need are a multimeter, a couple of old meccano spanners and a flat blade screw driver ( I did however invest in one of Mr Dodds excellent re magnetisers).

I have a couple of locos dating back to the 40s that run a treat after just a clean and service and Im having fun again.

So in my opinion, "were any of them any good?"

I think they were and are, bloody marvellous.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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