RMweb Premium melmerby Posted December 2, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 2, 2023 1 minute ago, WIMorrison said: Nope, that is why you need to use USB, until the YD9401 becomes available, or the YD7101 command station successor is produced. There are far to many options and configurations to be able to do it using DCC CVs There were more than enough options on the DR4018 to do yer 'ed in🙂 The chap at DCC Train Automation seemed to be suggesting that the YD9401 will only be produced to fulfill current orders, when I asked him when they were expecting them. He said "You won't get one" I told him I already had one on order with them, and he said you will get one "sometime" ☹️ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 How do I connect the YD8116 point motor switch decoder up to the Z21? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 http://www.yamorc.de/downloads/YD8116.en.pdf 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 7, 2023 Author Share Posted December 7, 2023 (edited) Hello I've been progressing with my blocks on my test track. I have the yellow wire going from terminal 1 (ignore wires 2.3 and 4) on the YD6016LN current sensor to the cut rail on the block (the yellow wire is inside the cut) there is a cut both ends of the rail. The brown wire goes to the continuous rail via the bus ( I think you call it the continuous rail the common rail) The Yd6016 is connected to the TP Link router that came with the Z21 via a LocoNet cable I'm using one of the spare ports on the router. When the engine enters the block, it's causing a short and the blue light on the Z21 changes to red. Any idea what is causing this? Thanks, Steve Edited December 7, 2023 by Stevio778 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 7, 2023 Share Posted December 7, 2023 The Loconet is cable should be connected to the LNet port on the Z21 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 7, 2023 Author Share Posted December 7, 2023 Oops lol 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 8, 2023 Author Share Posted December 8, 2023 I've connected the LocoNet cable to the Z21 now (the green lights flashing on the YD6016) but the engine is still shorting out as it enters the block (blue light goes to red on Z21) The track doesn't seem to be getting any power. You don't have to configure the YD6016 do you for the track to get power? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 Sound like you have some wires crossed - literally. I suggest that you check that you have the left and right rail wire the same way around everywhere on the layout. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Tested the track out on my test layout and all wires are OK. Got some guys round and they tested it with a volt meter and we came to the conclusion that it would be best to just create a single rail track. I have now done this and I get the same result, as the engine enters the block it stops and the blue light on the Z21 goes to red denoting a short. Unless I have to programme the YD6016 it would appear to be faulty new? The red wire from the Z21 is soldered to the cut rail, black to continuous. The brown is soldered to continuous rail and goes to TD6016 to C terminal and Yellow soldered to cut trail goes to Terminal 1 on YD6016. Once again there is no Current going to the Block. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 just follow the picture that is shown in the YD6016 manual (link provided earlier). If you consistently use only two colours of wire then you will find it a lot easier - I certainly will because I see black, black/red, yellow and brown wires in you pictures. Just use two - black and yellow would ne a good idea as you will be able to work out where the fault is. I certainly cant from your description and pictures, but I am 99% certain it is simply that you have a crossed wire, therefore a short. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 I have followed the wiring diagram and as I say I got 2 of my friends who are into electronics to come round (They also looked at that diagram) and they were under the opinion that the YD6016 is faulty unless it has to be programmed. Just substitute the Brown Wire for Black. and just substitute the yellow wire for Red Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Clearly you haven’t followed the diagram because thousands of other have followed it and it works perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 It's better to wire up sections testing as you go, as if it suddenly stops working, you know it's in the area you've just done. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 The engine works perfectly and is getting current until it enters the block and then it cuts out the block isn't registering any power. 🙂 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Because you haven’t wired it correctly- the other possibility is that you have ruined the YD6016 with your previous incorrect wiring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 I checked the wiring and it is OK 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ITG Posted December 10, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) If you first wired this single stretch of track without the YD6016, with each of two colours of wire direct to the track. If it works, that proves the simple scenario works. Then cut one wire, and connect one side from power source/command station to the input of the YD6016, and the other from track to the selected output channel of the YD6016. Does the loco then work? if so, does the sensor show occupancy? (If only using a single length of track, you don’t even need to cut the track to prove occupancy works or not. Just lift the loco off, to see if occupancy display goes off. If the sensor doesn’t work, then either it’s programmed incorrectly, it’s damaged by incorrect set up, or it’s faulty. But you need to prove it first. i would say as this simple level, this isn’t really about electronics, it’s about logically following instructions to set up both various devices and wiring connections. To this end, it would help those giving advice, if you drew in colour a diagram, as in common with @WIMorrison, I cannot understand how you have what seems to be black, red, brown and yellow wires connected to the track. And that’s a very rough track break. - are you sure there’s no bits of metal floating about anywhere? good luck. Ian Edited December 10, 2023 by ITG Addition 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Thanks Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ITG Posted December 10, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Surely if the brown wire in your 4th photo is the same as the brown wire in the 3rd photo, and the yellows in those same photos are the same in each, it cannot be wired correctly. In photo 4, let’s call the brown wire the lower rail wire; it flows into the YD6016 and out via the yellow wire. So how can the track in photo 3 have brown on one rail and yellow on the other? In electricity terms, your brown and yellow are the same in terms of the usage of YD6016. Of course, the picture is blurred by the usage of red, black and red/black wires as we cannot see how everything connects together. But if I’ve interpreted your photos correctly, the answer is simple. You’ve got upper and lower rail power supplies confused. Ian Edited December 10, 2023 by ITG Added word 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Happy Days guys we cracked it I have soldered the brown wire to the other end and on the red wire rail. I only have just the yellow wire at the far end. The red track ramp denotes where the cut is and the Mallard TT120 is going into the block nicely now! Result. Thanks once again so much! Steve 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) You really need to sort your wiring out. You now have red, brown and yellow all with the same ‘polarity’, which is why you, and your electronics experts got it wrong. You only need two wire colours, one for each rail and doing as I suggested earlier it will prevent (or help prevent) more errors in the future. Edited December 10, 2023 by WIMorrison Corrected auto spelling 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ITG Posted December 10, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 10, 2023 39 minutes ago, Stevio778 said: Happy Days guys we cracked it I have soldered the brown wire to the other end and on the red wire rail. I only have just the yellow wire at the far end. The red track ramp denotes where the cut is and the Mallard TT120 is going into the block nicely now! Result. Thanks once again so much! Steve Good news. But please, for your own sanity (and indeed ours!) read and understand the instructions BEFORE commencing wiring, and standardise your wire colours. Truth is, by following earlier advice to do so, you’d have saved yourself some angst. Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Hey it’s all about the learning curve 🤣 Mea Culpa my electronics friend was correct I studied his diagram again and realised the brown C wire was soldered to the Red Wire rail. Edited December 10, 2023 by Stevio778 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevio778 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 But please, for your own sanity (and indeed ours!) lol 😂 . My understanding of diagrams has increased 100%. I was reading a bit more into the Yamorc one than what was actually there! Have a great week! Now onto fitting the point motors. DOH! well maybe not this week! Haha 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted December 10, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 10, 2023 That's awful☹️ Might I suggest one of these?: https://gb.jbtools.com/x-acto-x75300-precision-razor-saw-set/ However I'm not sure why you needed to do such a brutal cut as that - two lengths of track joined with one rail metal joiner, one rail plastic joiner. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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