Hayfields 3D printed track workshop

[martin_wynne]

43 minutes ago, Blefuscu said:

I am now looking at Peco IL-1 code 60 rail... that is also flat bottom rail and will need some tinkering.

 

Hi,

 

At present Templot plug track chairs are for bullhead rail only. There is no way that flat-bottom rail will fit. Flat-bottom track may be possible in future, but not any time soon, sorry.

 

 

You will find individually the chairs are quite weak

 

Made with ordinary brittle resin that's true.

 

But made with AnyCubic V2 water-washable ABS-Like resin they are amazingly strong, even in 3mm scale -- see these:

 

 

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Blefuscu]

2 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

At present Templot plug track chairs are for bullhead rail only

 

Hi Martin,

 

Oh yes, I knew this, but that's OK... by 'tinkering' I meant importing the .stl files into Blender to edit them. I suspect I will use the Templot .stl as a template and modelling my sleepers and chairs by hand. I'm slightly ahead of myself as I haven't installed Templot yet, but I've been watching those Bexhill West videos while I finish modelling an EMU. From these videos, and the Templot outputs I have seen, I'm fairly/mostly confident I could model what I need from the 3D output. To be honest, the 2D output is so good, it might be have been enough to import that.

 

3 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

they are amazingly strong, even in 3mm scale

 

This is reassuring! I did read on the Templot pages that ABS, and ABS with 15% SIraya Tech Tenacious, was performing very well... but, I had also read that someone was having problem with plugged chairs in 2mm and can't remember what materials they were using. 

 

[tom s]

On 28/01/2024 at 19:41, Blefuscu said:

Oh yes, I knew this, but that's OK... by 'tinkering' I meant importing the .stl files into Blender to edit them. I suspect I will use the Templot .stl as a template and modelling my sleepers and chairs by hand.

 

Just finished doing that, was quite tedious but felt the Templot chairs would be too delicate in 2mm with my it being my first time track assembling so made a handful of blockier chairs that will match my printer resolution. Rail centrelines were used as curve modifiers to slide the chairs along, one by one. The non destructive placement also means I can change a few things like the gap left for the rail to slide through and the heights of the parts relatively easily.

Edited February 6 by tom s

[tom s]

-quoted myself instead of editing again-

 

 

Edited February 5 by tom s

[Blefuscu]

2 hours ago, tom s said:

quite tedious

Looks great though. I haven't started my track yet but the curve modifier is a good tip, thanks.

[martin_wynne]

On 20/12/2023 at 09:37, hayfield said:

Just for a change from track I was asked some questions about my printer about how big a model could be built on it, and I remembered Martin showing us we could print longer items (providing they are not too wide) by printing them on the angle, as we have appx 170mm printable bed, a 183mm long model (building) fitted on the diagonal. As well as the file for the model I asked for a smaller test piece file

 

The building file would take over 13 hours to print, where as the test piece quoted 1h 39 min and use 16g of filament. Not really knowing what I was doing, the first issue was the drawing was on its back and as there were protrusions on the back of unequal length I thought it would struggle to hold itself up, so I turned the plan through 90 degrees on to its base. I also decided to use the jig printing settings as it was quicker and uses less filament?

 

 

Well this is half through and I was pleases with the results so far, but would the filament above the door and windows sag?

 

 

 

As you can see  there was no need to worry, 2h 9 mins later and an amazing result, especially as I really just guessed what to do (I got away with this one)

 

What a clever bit of design

 

I think I might have a look at some easy to use design software, was it RS components Martin suggested ?

@hayfield

 

Hi John,

 

See also: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/148665-williams-workbench-lbscr-lcdr-ser/?do=findComment&comment=5423177

 

STL files can be downloaded from:  https://www.g1-3d.uk/models/table

 

The scale can be changed in Cura. For fine detail you may do better with ordinary PLA instead of the PLA-PLUS toughened filament.

 

Martin.

Edited February 6 by martin_wynne

[njee20]

I’ve printed an N gauge turnout in resin. Printed on a Saturn 2 with a mix of Siraya Fast and Sunlu ABS-Like (because that’s what was in the printer!). I refuse to use anything water washable, I’m yet to see any advantages, and there are myriad problems, although they do seem to be improving. I normally use a blend of Tenacious for things like this, but based on this I wouldn’t bother. 
 

I must say I’m very impressed with it. Far stronger than I anticipated. I planned to thread the rails (code 40 C&L BH) before curing, but they were just too flexible, post curing they were surprisingly resilient. Thrown together with rails filed by eye because I didn’t anticipate it working that well, so ignore dodgy filing.

 

 

 

 

 

[MJI]

Just found this, I do have a resin printer, so thinking of giving it a go.

 

ABS resin seems to be popular.

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, MJI said:

Just found this, I do have a resin printer, so thinking of giving it a go. ABS resin seems to be popular.

@MJI

 

Hi Martin,

 

Most users are using FDM printing or laser-cut ply for the timbering bases. With ABS-Like resin for the chairs.

 

This is FDM timbering:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Martin.

[njee20]

1 hour ago, MJI said:

Just found this, I do have a resin printer, so thinking of giving it a go.

 

ABS resin seems to be popular.

You certainly want something with a bit of give. Whether you want to mix something like Siraya Tenacious into a ‘standard’ resin or use an ABS-like off the shelf there’s not much in it. ABS-like is still slightly more brittle than a mix (ratio dependent) but still more than good enough.
 

If you’re modelling in anything bigger than N I’d probably FDM print the timbers though.  

[MJI]

Would be oo and i only have a mars 2 pro

 

Was looking originally at solder kits

[njee20]

There's nothing to stop you, but even a modest turnout will have to be split into parts to fit in a M2P. Sounds like a good time to buy an FDM printer!

[MJI]

I have to do some sidings with awkwards points, and originally planning on peco bullhead.

 

But this looks good,  i am slightly tempted by fdm just for brake gear due to shattering resin.

[njee20]

At risk of further thread drift - get better resin, and possibly cure it less. If it's sufficiently fragile that resin pieces are shattering then FDM isn't the answer. Delicate items like brake gear will not fare overly well IMO.

[martin_wynne]

51 minutes ago, MJI said:

i am slightly tempted by fdm

@MJI

 

Hi Martin,

 

If starting in FDM, you might want to look at the topics on the Templot Club forum, such as:

 

 https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/3d-printer-kingroon-kp3s-pro-s1.850/

 

The standard profiles supplied with most FDM printers may not give the best results for timbering bases. See the above link for suggested custom settings.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Wayne Kinney]

On 17/02/2024 at 11:37, njee20 said:

I’ve printed an N gauge turnout in resin. Printed on a Saturn 2 with a mix of Siraya Fast and Sunlu ABS-Like (because that’s what was in the printer!). I refuse to use anything water washable, I’m yet to see any advantages, and there are myriad problems, although they do seem to be improving. I normally use a blend of Tenacious for things like this, but based on this I wouldn’t bother. 
 

I must say I’m very impressed with it. Far stronger than I anticipated. I planned to thread the rails (code 40 C&L BH) before curing, but they were just too flexible, post curing they were surprisingly resilient. Thrown together with rails filed by eye because I didn’t anticipate it working that well, so ignore dodgy filing.

 

 

 

 

 

Well done achieving it in N Gauge. You may find you get an issue with the sleepers curling/warping upwards over time...

Edited February 25 by Wayne Kinney

[njee20]

Yes, I imagine they will. I’d definitely paint in and then glue it down if I was going to lay it. 

[tom s]

On 17/02/2024 at 11:37, njee20 said:

I’ve printed an N gauge turnout in resin. Printed on a Saturn 2 with a mix of Siraya Fast and Sunlu ABS-Like (because that’s what was in the printer!). I refuse to use anything water washable, I’m yet to see any advantages, and there are myriad problems, although they do seem to be improving. I normally use a blend of Tenacious for things like this, but based on this I wouldn’t bother. 
 

I must say I’m very impressed with it. Far stronger than I anticipated. I planned to thread the rails (code 40 C&L BH) before curing, but they were just too flexible, post curing they were surprisingly resilient. Thrown together with rails filed by eye because I didn’t anticipate it working that well, so ignore dodgy filing.

Just finished assembling the rails on my first 2fs resin turnout. It is just Phrozen Aqua on my 2K printer so it is not overly flexible but it is all I have. There are quite a few broken chairs (the right closure rail has lost all of them on one side, luckily on the non-viewing one) but 60 second superglue seems to be good enough as a backup, plus can print replacement chairs for cosmetics on the viewing side. 

Not sure whether to mask the rail tops or just rub off the primer when it comes time to paint it into a... more prototypical colour!

[njee20]

Looks very over exposed judging by the ‘feet’ on the webbing? Looks quite thick too, and surprised you’re not finding it flexible. I can roll my base up!

[tom s]

Yeah, this is the first time in 2 years that I've been printing directly on the build plate so I hadn't paid much attention to the burn-in layers compared to the conventional layers, and even these will be buried in ballast.
Webbing could be thinner too but I haven't had any breaks when pulling off the build plate and everything has stayed the correct orientation (the breaks in the image are where print #2's bottom was married to print #3's top with a flange gap fix, when print #3's switch blade pulled all the chairs up when adjusting it.) 
I'm printing in set modules rather than individual points to ensure everything lines up from the Templot model, and using some 0.6mm needle section to locate the prints together.

[martin_wynne]

47 minutes ago, tom s said:

I'm printing in set modules rather than individual points to ensure everything lines up from the Templot model

 

Hi Tom,

 

Just to clarify for everyone that you are not using Templot 3D plug track. I think you have created your own 3D files to match a 2D Templot track plan?

 

It's hard work trying to make sure folks don't get confused. Templot 3D plug track puts the webs at the end of the timbers, and has its own system of connector clips for modules (called "bricks" in Templot -- think Lego). As you say, it all gets lost under the ballast:

 

 

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[tom s]

1 hour ago, martin_wynne said:

Just to clarify for everyone that you are not using Templot 3D plug track. I think you have created your own 3D files to match a 2D Templot track plan?

 

Hi Martin, that is correct, apologies for the potential confusion!
The sleepers themselves are 95% the Templot .stl file sleepers in the default solid mode, the chairs scratch made and positioned using the .stl rail centrelines as a curve modifier, and the webbing was scratch made on a guess for what would be necessary.
Cheers, Tom

[sulzer71]

After seeing the videos by James @ Bexhill West I'm quite impressed with the plug track system but not being the owner of a 3D printer (I don't even have a computer at home!) I was wondering if there's any plans for these being made available as kits? Either that or whether someone would be willing to print some for me , I will pay of course!

 

I have some friends badgering me to do P4 but they model pre grouping so are hand building everything whereas I do diesels

 

Dave

[bradfordbuffer]

3 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

After seeing the videos by James @ Bexhill West I'm quite impressed with the plug track system but not being the owner of a 3D printer (I don't even have a computer at home!) I was wondering if there's any plans for these being made available as kits? Either that or whether someone would be willing to print some for me , I will pay of course!

 

I have some friends badgering me to do P4 but they model pre grouping so are hand building everything whereas I do diesels

 

Dave

sort of defeats the object of printing to your track plan! unfortunately not having a computer you have fallen at the first hurdle at Aintree!  may be the way for yourself would be point kits from British fine scale track simple to make although you might have to make do with bullhead rail....for now

your option 2 is possible but quite a long prosses for the printer friend so could be costly

g

[sulzer71]

16 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

sort of defeats the object of printing to your track plan! unfortunately not having a computer you have fallen at the first hurdle at Aintree!  may be the way for yourself would be point kits from British fine scale track simple to make although you might have to make do with bullhead rail....for now

your option 2 is possible but quite a long prosses for the printer friend so could be costly

g

In all honesty there is no track plan as such , I'd just need a handful of B6 L + R turnouts and some straight stuff , make it up as I go along 

 

I'd looked at the British Fnescale kits but like the idea of the plug track