Hayfields 3D printed track workshop

[hayfield]

9 hours ago, MarshLane said:

@martin_wynne,

Sorry to hijack John's thread. I was talking to a friend of mine this afternoon who is involved in the use of commercial 3D printing as part of his day job - nothing to do with railways or models - and while he has a bit of an interest in model railways it doesn't extend beyond the Hornby trainset approach, fair enough each to their own.

 

But we were talking about various things and I was telling him what you had been doing with 3D printing of timbers and chairs, giving cost-effective, detailed, bespoke point and track work.  He raised a few eyebrows and commented (please note I am not saying this is  the defacto position, it is just his personal view) that given his experience of 3D resin especially in his day job, his view was while it is improving, the development of the resins was not yet at a level for model railway use, even for hobbyists - that opinion being based on the durability and longer-term use of the 3D printed items.  His view was that model railways tend to be long-term projects, and (my emphasis) in his view and opinion the resins that are around currently, at the prices people would be willing to pay, do not have the longer term life that would be necessary.  Now ok, we did not define how long the long-term period was, but the inference was that over time the resin would/could start to be breakdown.

 

I commented that the initial output from various people looked very good, and I had read that you'd been working on the 3D track project for a couple of years now, maybe longer.  I am assuming, given your scientific approach to things that some of the early FDM and resin prints you did are still hanging around purposely to see how things survive long term.   But I wondered what your view was - obviously if the resin does breakdown over a period or after exposure to sunlight and becomes brittle that would be an issue, and I acknowledge there are a large number of different resin and fillament types.  It may well be (unbeknown to me) that the types of source material being suggested are better quality or better for long-term use.

 

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts - for my part, can I say I have no experience of 3D printing and neither me (nor my mate) are claiming to be experts.  It was just two modeler's talking things through - so there is no criticism or doubting in anyway of the work Martin is doing, promoting or experimenting with.

 

Rich

 

Rich

 

Firstly British Finescale have been using resin printing for quite some time with no ill effect. Modelu uses 3D printing and I have had unpainted prints for quite a few years (8+?)

 

I have test print of a filing jig(FDM) which shows no ill effects after 2 years still unpainted

I have both FDM timbers and resin chairs unpainted for nearly 2 years

I have unpainted Modelu chairs and figures for up to 5 years with no ill affect

I have an un painted British Finescale kit 1+ years, (been in business for 12+ years)

 

Then I have resin made kits (not 3D) for many years with no ill affects

 

20 years ago people were saying the same about plastic timber and chair construction, degradation, shrinkage etc nothing has happened

But when Peco flexi track is left outside in sun and all weathers, there have been reports of degradation 

 

Firstly we are using UV curing material in resin as well as filament for timbers both of which should be protected more when painted

Secondly longevity of track, quite often I read that layouts have their track replaced on their layouts

I know of 1 P4 layout having to have the chipboard frames replaced, other P4 layouts where the rivets rust and fail

Then of course industry use 3D printing ever more

 

Something I am not thinking about but at worse I assume it will be the resin rather than FDM which may be the weakest, just replace the chairs as they plug in

 

20 years ago I listened to those who warned about plastic degrading or not being strong enough at certain pressure points, if anything plastic performs better than the other methods

 

Personally I think I am late into this modelling process which has and is being proven to be stable. Perhaps you should ask the likes of Modelu and British Finescale about their thoughts on this subject as both have far more experience in these areas.

 

For the the opportunities far outweigh the risks.

[KeithHC]

I was under the impression that PLA is biodegradable. However that is not meant to occur for over 400 years!

 

Keith

[bradfordbuffer]

11 hours ago, MarshLane said:

@martin_wynne,

Sorry to hijack John's thread. I was talking to a friend of mine this afternoon who is involved in the use of commercial 3D printing as part of his day job - nothing to do with railways or models - and while he has a bit of an interest in model railways it doesn't extend beyond the Hornby trainset approach, fair enough each to their own.

 

But we were talking about various things and I was telling him what you had been doing with 3D printing of timbers and chairs, giving cost-effective, detailed, bespoke point and track work.  He raised a few eyebrows and commented (please note I am not saying this is  the defacto position, it is just his personal view) that given his experience of 3D resin especially in his day job, his view was while it is improving, the development of the resins was not yet at a level for model railway use, even for hobbyists - that opinion being based on the durability and longer-term use of the 3D printed items.  His view was that model railways tend to be long-term projects, and (my emphasis) in his view and opinion the resins that are around currently, at the prices people would be willing to pay, do not have the longer term life that would be necessary.  Now ok, we did not define how long the long-term period was, but the inference was that over time the resin would/could start to be breakdown.

 

I commented that the initial output from various people looked very good, and I had read that you'd been working on the 3D track project for a couple of years now, maybe longer.  I am assuming, given your scientific approach to things that some of the early FDM and resin prints you did are still hanging around purposely to see how things survive long term.   But I wondered what your view was - obviously if the resin does breakdown over a period or after exposure to sunlight and becomes brittle that would be an issue, and I acknowledge there are a large number of different resin and fillament types.  It may well be (unbeknown to me) that the types of source material being suggested are better quality or better for long-term use.

 

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts - for my part, can I say I have no experience of 3D printing and neither me (nor my mate) are claiming to be experts.  It was just two modellers talking things through - so there is no criticism or doubting in anyway of the work Martin is doing, promoting or experimenting with.

 

Rich

In the movie Flash Gordon (1980), Prince Voltan says, "ah well....Who wants to live forever?......dive!!"

 

Valid question though 🤔 

 

Everything has a usable life span....copper clad sleepers de laminate over time....the early century wonder material bakerlight likes to shatter after years of service

May be by the time ....20 years or so when the 3d print track is falling to pieces we will be able to walk to the subatomic replicator in the kitchen order a beef stew and dumplings and 2x a6 lefthand points!

[martin_wynne]

11 hours ago, MarshLane said:

@martin_wynne,

Sorry to hijack John's thread. I was talking to a friend of mine this afternoon who is involved in the use of commercial 3D printing as part of his day job - nothing to do with railways or models - and while he has a bit of an interest in model railways it doesn't extend beyond the Hornby trainset approach, fair enough each to their own.

 

But we were talking about various things and I was telling him what you had been doing with 3D printing of timbers and chairs, giving cost-effective, detailed, bespoke point and track work.  He raised a few eyebrows and commented (please note I am not saying this is  the defacto position, it is just his personal view) that given his experience of 3D resin especially in his day job, his view was while it is improving, the development of the resins was not yet at a level for model railway use, even for hobbyists - that opinion being based on the durability and longer-term use of the 3D printed items.  His view was that model railways tend to be long-term projects, and (my emphasis) in his view and opinion the resins that are around currently, at the prices people would be willing to pay, do not have the longer term life that would be necessary.  Now ok, we did not define how long the long-term period was, but the inference was that over time the resin would/could start to be breakdown.

 

I commented that the initial output from various people looked very good, and I had read that you'd been working on the 3D track project for a couple of years now, maybe longer.  I am assuming, given your scientific approach to things that some of the early FDM and resin prints you did are still hanging around purposely to see how things survive long term.   But I wondered what your view was - obviously if the resin does breakdown over a period or after exposure to sunlight and becomes brittle that would be an issue, and I acknowledge there are a large number of different resin and fillament types.  It may well be (unbeknown to me) that the types of source material being suggested are better quality or better for long-term use.

 

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts - for my part, can I say I have no experience of 3D printing and neither me (nor my mate) are claiming to be experts.  It was just two modellers talking things through - so there is no criticism or doubting in anyway of the work Martin is doing, promoting or experimenting with.

 

Rich

@MarshLane

 

I object very strongly to the suggestion in the above post that it is my responsibility to provide answers about anything.

 

I am tinkering with 3D printed model railway track for my own interest and amusement -- nothing more. I have made my hobby interest open for anyone else to join in if they wish. That is all. I am not in any sense pushing or promoting or selling 3D printed track, and I have no more knowledge of the long-term stability of the materials I'm using than anyone else.

 

FDM materials are thermoplastics. Thermoplastics are widely used in the hobby -- for RTR locomotives and rolling stock, wagon kits, flexi-track, buildings and structures, scratch building with plasticard, etc. There is no reason to believe that 3D-printed thermoplastics will behave any differently in the long-term from any others. Everything will depend on the conditions and circumstances in which they are used. The oldest FDM printed track bases I have here are 5 years old. I can detect no change in them in that time.

 

UV-cured resin models are a relatively recent introduction into the hobby. No-one yet knows for sure how they will behave long-term. It is however clear that painting them will help to protect them from long-term UV damage and extend their service life. The oldest resin models I have here are 2 years old and unpainted. I can detect no change in them in that time, but they have been stored indoors in normal conditions. Had I left them out of doors I'm fairly sure that by now they would be looking a bit sad. How much less sad if I had painted them I have no way of knowing.

 

For the resin-printed chairs, I have suggested that it is very important that the rail is an easy sliding fit and free to move. So that the chairs do not come under any stress due to thermal expansion and contraction of the rail. To that end I'm including a means in the timbers to restrain the rail from moving too far out of position, using integral dropper wires as a flexible restraint. This illustrates an important point -- the long-term stability of 3D-printed track is likely to depend very much on exactly how you build it. If resin chairs are made a tight fit on the rail, similar to injection-moulded thermoplastic chairs, it wouldn't surprise me if they crack and break after a few months.

 

Likewise the processing of the resin is important. I am now using a water-washable resin for the chairs -- this one:

 

 https://uk.anycubic.com/collections/abs-like-resin-v2/products/anycubic-abs-like-resin-v2-package

 

The manufacturers make it clear that the water-washing and drying should take place quickly, and that the uncured model should not be left soaking in water. Also that the model must be fully dry before UV curing. Taking care to comply with such instructions may have a significant effect on the long-term stability of the models.

 

I shall continue to have fun experimenting with 3D printed track. If others want do the same, that's great.

 

Martin.     

[polybear]

14 hours ago, MarshLane said:

@martin_wynne,

Sorry to hijack John's thread. I was talking to a friend of mine this afternoon who is involved in the use of commercial 3D printing as part of his day job - nothing to do with railways or models - and while he has a bit of an interest in model railways it doesn't extend beyond the Hornby trainset approach, fair enough each to their own.

 

But we were talking about various things and I was telling him what you had been doing with 3D printing of timbers and chairs, giving cost-effective, detailed, bespoke point and track work.  He raised a few eyebrows and commented (please note I am not saying this is  the defacto position, it is just his personal view) that given his experience of 3D resin especially in his day job, his view was while it is improving, the development of the resins was not yet at a level for model railway use, even for hobbyists - that opinion being based on the durability and longer-term use of the 3D printed items.  His view was that model railways tend to be long-term projects, and (my emphasis) in his view and opinion the resins that are around currently, at the prices people would be willing to pay, do not have the longer term life that would be necessary.  Now ok, we did not define how long the long-term period was, but the inference was that over time the resin would/could start to be breakdown.

 

I commented that the initial output from various people looked very good, and I had read that you'd been working on the 3D track project for a couple of years now, maybe longer.  I am assuming, given your scientific approach to things that some of the early FDM and resin prints you did are still hanging around purposely to see how things survive long term.   But I wondered what your view was - obviously if the resin does breakdown over a period or after exposure to sunlight and becomes brittle that would be an issue, and I acknowledge there are a large number of different resin and fillament types.  It may well be (unbeknown to me) that the types of source material being suggested are better quality or better for long-term use.

 

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts - for my part, can I say I have no experience of 3D printing and neither me (nor my mate) are claiming to be experts.  It was just two modellers talking things through - so there is no criticism or doubting in anyway of the work Martin is doing, promoting or experimenting with.

 

Rich

 

One advantage of the plug-in chairs is (if my understanding is correct) they could easily be replaced in the event of failure

[MarshLane]

Martin,

Thanks for your reply.  I do think there seems to be lot of hostility to the mere mention of your 3D project for anyone using anything but your words, my query was not intended to provoke such comments, merely ask for your views, if you had any.  As for promoting, well I'll agree to disagree on that one, as different people will view things in different ways.

 

3 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

@MarshLane

I object very strongly to the suggestion in the above post that it is my responsibility to provide answers about anything.

 

I have no idea where this comes from @martin_wynne.  Reading back on my post I believe I said "I wondered what your view was" and followed this up with "I'd be interested to hear your thoughts".  Please tell me where I said it was your responsibility?  My post was simply the result of a discussion between two friends which set me thinking, and given the way you've gone about 3D track work (for the avoidance of doubt any further mis-accuasions which is experimental and your own hobby project that others are welcome to join in) I was interested to hear your thoughts on longevity. Indeed, I stressed in my original post that the query was not criticism at all.

 

I would have thought somebody asking, what to me seemed to be a very valid question, would have been a positive - perhaps the best answer was from @hayfield - thank you for that John, really useful thoughts.  As with anything new, there are always unknowns in the mix. As I said I dont have any 3D experience or knowledge, so do feel that part of your comments shot down somebody for asking legitimate question.

 

I have enjoyed and been very interested in following Hayfield's adventures with his 3D printer, and congratulate you on what you have achieved with your 3D track work and Templot - please Martin ... dont take in any other way than praise.

 

Rich

[martin_wynne]

13 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

I said "I wondered what your view was" and followed this up with "I'd be interested to hear your thoughts".

@MarshLane

 

Rich, you addressed your remarks directly to me in John's topic on RMweb, without quoting anything I had posted here to which you might be replying.

 

If you wanted to ask me a question about Templot plug track, the place to do that is on the Templot Club forum.

 

Or if you wanted to hear the opinions of everyone here experimenting with 3D track, there was no reason to mention me specifically.

 

Martin.

[MarshLane]

37 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

@MarshLane

 

Rich, you addressed your remarks directly to me in John's topic on RMweb, without quoting anything I had posted here to which you might be replying.

 

If you wanted to ask me a question about Templot plug track, the place to do that is on the Templot Club forum.

 

Or if you wanted to hear the opinions of everyone here experimenting with 3D track, there was no reason to mention me specifically.

 

Martin.

 

Martin,

Apologies that questions were not asked in the way you wanted them. I asked it on here, as it seemed logical given the 3D work and could be relevant to anyone else reading the thread, which would not have been the case had I asked on the Templot forum.  I do not often look at the Templot forum, but look at rmWeb everyday, and I knew from your responses you visited regularly.  Also to the best of my knowledge (unless I have missed anything - apologies if so) there was nothing relevant to quote in relation to the query.

 

Also I mentioned you because, it is 'your' project and I know you've researched a lot of things in detail - different printers, different techniques, different resins etc.  I should add that I felt I was being respectful by directing the query directly you as asking for your thoughts.

 

However, I do not wish to detract from John's work and progress any further, so I'll not ask anything else, and let's draw a line under things at that point.

 

Rich

[Wayne Kinney]

Keep cool, my babies!!!

 

[hayfield]

Just for a change from track I was asked some questions about my printer about how big a model could be built on it, and I remembered Martin showing us we could print longer items (providing they are not too wide) by printing them on the angle, as we have appx 170mm printable bed, a 183mm long model (building) fitted on the diagonal. As well as the file for the model I asked for a smaller test piece file

 

The building file would take over 13 hours to print, where as the test piece quoted 1h 39 min and use 16g of filament. Not really knowing what I was doing, the first issue was the drawing was on its back and as there were protrusions on the back of unequal length I thought it would struggle to hold itself up, so I turned the plan through 90 degrees on to its base. I also decided to use the jig printing settings as it was quicker and uses less filament?

 

 

Well this is half through and I was pleases with the results so far, but would the filament above the door and windows sag?

 

 

 

As you can see  there was no need to worry, 2h 9 mins later and an amazing result, especially as I really just guessed what to do (I got away with this one)

 

What a clever bit of design

 

I think I might have a look at some easy to use design software, was it RS components Martin suggested ?

[martin_wynne]

36 minutes ago, hayfield said:

think I might have a look at some easy to use design software, was it RS components Martin suggested ?

 

@hayfield

 

Hi John,

 

DesignSpark Mechanical (DSM), which is a version of SpaceClaim re-badged by RS. It has a different way of working from Fusion360.

 

The free DSM Explorer version 6 will export only in STL format, but that is all you need for 3D printing. (There are paid-for versions with extra features, but you don't need them for 3D printing models.)

 

It's entirely free, and a proper Windows executable program which runs on your computer, not online. You own your files and know where they are. You can use it for commercial work, unlike Fusion360.

 

For an example of models designed in DSM and printed on a Mars 2 (the Alkaid is a clone of that and would produce similar results), see:

 

 https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/174102-thinking-about-3d-printing-where-to-start/?do=findComment&comment=4926660

 

This DSM video is several years old, but it is all still the same:

 

 

 

 

Lots of DSM tutorials available:

 

 https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/learn-designspark-mechanical

 

Download from (if you don't have an RS account you need to register for one first -- easy):

 

https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited December 20, 2023 by martin_wynne
links

[KeithHC]

Hi John, I like Martin use Designspark Mechanical and have done for all my current work. I find it easier than other programs to be grasped in the beginning. It does have some limitations but they could be my own skill set. It’s a case of going back and thinking around a problem. It was only in the last few weeks I found out what the project tool does. The items I am still working on is producing brickwork and rivets. But it will come over time.

 

Keith

[hayfield]

James Walters has produced another video on 3D plug track, this time using a laser cut track base, in 3mm scale using 1 piece chairs rather than 2 piece chairs. As usual a very well made and informative video showing alternative building methods and a smaller scale

 

 

Well worth a watch,

 

Well done James and I am eagerly waiting the next video on printing chairs!!  (I need a nudge to get going printing chairs)

 

[makeitminiature]

I'm on to it John...I've another laser review which I am working on at the moment.  Then it'll be chair printing.   Then, I think a comparison of 3d printed and laser cut brickwork.

I wish I didn't have a day job.  😀

 

 

[Blefuscu]

I was dipping my toe into the world of track building, when I fell into this great ocean of work.

 

So far I had only picked up the 2mm society track book and their sample of flexitrack. I haven't assembled it yet because I think I'm going with tt scale... but it left me thinking it would be easy enough to print myself something like their flexible track in 1:120.

 

I havent been brave enough to try yet but was thinking that working in short sections like that would suit the limitations of my printer bed... but the resin is pretty bendy and I could fit the rails before curing.

 

Then, my thoughts continued, I could prepare turnouts in templot and extrude the sleepers from the printer files.

 

And then I discovered this project! I have a lot of catching up to do but it's very exciting.

 

[hayfield]

10 hours ago, Blefuscu said:

I was dipping my toe into the world of track building, when I fell into this great ocean of work.

 

So far I had only picked up the 2mm society track book and their sample of flexitrack. I haven't assembled it yet because I think I'm going with tt scale... but it left me thinking it would be easy enough to print myself something like their flexible track in 1:120.

 

I havent been brave enough to try yet but was thinking that working in short sections like that would suit the limitations of my printer bed... but the resin is pretty bendy and I could fit the rails before curing.

 

Then, my thoughts continued, I could prepare turnouts in templot and extrude the sleepers from the printer files.

 

And then I discovered this project! I have a lot of catching up to do but it's very exciting.

 

 

Join the Templot club, trials are going on in 2mm finescale and TT gauge, the smaller gauges seem to favor resin printing, as for TT its worth experimenting with both systems (all resin/FDM and resin)  

[Blefuscu]

12 minutes ago, hayfield said:

Join the Templot club

Yes, that's my next port of call.

 

I haven't jumped in immediately as I predict there's going to be a lot of information to digest and I'll need a good sit down and a cup of tea, maybe even a biscuit, to get me through.

 

I would favour all resin, because that's all I have. I wondered if the code 55 track would sit nicely in the sleepers, as not to put the tiny chairs under any functional load. ( Although, I'm sure when I get to the templot club I'll find this has all been duly considered.)

[roythebus1]

Yes, don't try to re-invent the wheel.

[tom s]

After trying to re-invent the wheel by modelling the points manually using the Finetrax temples, I couldn't figure out how to get this 3-way point to not be a complete flange squealer without scrapping and redoing the whole thing, so I took Hayfield's advice and tried Templot. 

Took the afternoon, did help I had the 3d model to use as a background image guide, but it was pretty straightforward. The 2mm Scale Association's youtube tutorial 1 and 8 taught me everything I feel I needed for the Minories plan. Now just to wait for the code 40 rail and easitrak sleepers to arrive to try and print them!

Edited January 25 by tom s

[hayfield]

9 hours ago, Blefuscu said:

Yes, that's my next port of call.

 

I haven't jumped in immediately as I predict there's going to be a lot of information to digest and I'll need a good sit down and a cup of tea, maybe even a biscuit, to get me through.

 

I would favour all resin, because that's all I have. I wondered if the code 55 track would sit nicely in the sleepers, as not to put the tiny chairs under any functional load. ( Although, I'm sure when I get to the templot club I'll find this has all been duly considered.)

 

One issue with 3D printing the timbers is one of the the bed curling as there is more material on one side than the other, this may not be an issue in the smaller gauges but is in 4mm scale and over

Another when using the cheaper machines is the size of print bed. My resin printer is 130 x 80mm where as my FDM printer is 180mm square, if you have not got a FDM printer it might be a option whilst considering the options to obtain the odd FDM timber print to compare with resin print

[hayfield]

3 hours ago, tom s said:

After trying to re-invent the wheel by modelling the points manually using the Finetrax temples, I couldn't figure out how to get this 3-way point to not be a complete flange squealer without scrapping and redoing the whole thing, so I took Hayfield's advice and tried Templot. 

Took the afternoon, did help I had the 3d model to use as a background image guide, but it was pretty straightforward. The 2mm Scale Association's youtube tutorial 1 and 8 taught me everything I feel I needed for the Minories plan. Now just to wait for the code 40 rail and easitrak sleepers to arrive to try and print them!

 

 

Tom s 

 

Very impressive

[Blefuscu]

19 hours ago, hayfield said:

bed curling

I should probably head over to the Templot forum soon... as I expect this is discussed in depth there. However, it also came up in my class 55 thread here as diesel bodies have a similar issue. Being long and open on one side (and a curved roof) they have a propensity towards becoming bananas, which subsequently bowed the side out.  I would have to look back on the thread to check who suggested this tip, but immersing them in hot water was enough to bend them back.

I've since mitigated the warping a great deal by using a better(?) resin. Bit of a question there as to if it was the resin at fault, or if changing resin gave me pause to look at my settings/exposure times... I suspect it was a bit of both. My 'anycubic standard' wasn't performing very well and prints were getting ripped off and stuck to the FEP. A fairly typical problem. I stuck it out to the end of the bottle by nursing the prints through with a slower Z lift and a longer exposure time. I think increasing the exposure time in the vat did exacerbate my warping issues. Bit of a hunch really. I'm using the recommended times for my Siraya tech Simple and getting good results now - so my research on that front has ended.

19 hours ago, hayfield said:

size of print bed

My resin printer is 245 x 197 x 122 mm. Although it will take the best part of a day to print anything 245mm high, it can do it... and that makes it more difficult to justify a FDM printer. It would be really great to have both though... and a workshop to put them in! One thing I'm really missing is flexible materials and the ability to print molds.

 

[Chris GH]

On 25/01/2024 at 10:32, Blefuscu said:

Yes, that's my next port of call.

 

I haven't jumped in immediately as I predict there's going to be a lot of information to digest and I'll need a good sit down and a cup of tea, maybe even a biscuit, to get me through.

 

I would favour all resin, because that's all I have. I wondered if the code 55 track would sit nicely in the sleepers, as not to put the tiny chairs under any functional load. ( Although, I'm sure when I get to the templot club I'll find this has all been duly considered.)

I don’t think Peco code 55 rail will fit as it doesn’t have a normal shaped profile of bullhead rail in that it is basically code 80 flat bottom with a double foot to make it look finer by sitting higher in the chairs. 

[Blefuscu]

17 hours ago, Chris GH said:

I don’t think Peco code 55 rail will fit as it doesn’t have a normal shaped profile of bullhead rail in that it is basically code 80 flat bottom with a double foot to make it look finer by sitting higher in the chairs. 

You are correct, it wouldn't fit the Templot bullhead chairs. My meaning was, that by doing this, the sleepers would offer the rail more support that the really tiny chairs can alone. To extend that thought - the plugs, and sleepers, would need to be edited/coerced, or I would have to make my own. I am a complete novice it comes to track, but am quite comfortable working with stl files, so the idea a workflow that uses Templot to generate a template that I can work to in Blender is fairly appealing.  

 

If I understand correctly,  TT120 track should sit between code 55 and code 60. Accommodating Code 55's extra foot might a moot point as I can't see a ready supplier for bare code 55 rail. Subsequently, I am now looking at Peco IL-1 code 60 rail... that is also flat bottom rail and will need some tinkering. (I have seen TIllig's rail, but it has a higher (2mm) profile, I think, and is more expensive.)

 

I'm on a Templot forum now and I can see this is going to be a journey of discovery. 

[hayfield]

28 minutes ago, Blefuscu said:

You are correct, it wouldn't fit the Templot bullhead chairs. My meaning was, that by doing this, the sleepers would offer the rail more support that the really tiny chairs can alone. To extend that thought - the plugs, and sleepers, would need to be edited/coerced, or I would have to make my own. I am a complete novice it comes to track, but am quite comfortable working with stl files, so the idea a workflow that uses Templot to generate a template that I can work to in Blender is fairly appealing.  

 

If I understand correctly,  TT120 track should sit between code 55 and code 60. Accommodating Code 55's extra foot might a moot point as I can't see a ready supplier for bare code 55 rail. Subsequently, I am now looking at Peco IL-1 code 60 rail... that is also flat bottom rail and will need some tinkering. (I have seen TIllig's rail, but it has a higher (2mm) profile, I think, and is more expensive.)

 

I'm on a Templot forum now and I can see this is going to be a journey of discovery. 

 

 

You will find individually the chairs are quite weak, but in numbers the strength increases, however you must use the correct settings (size) for the rail you are using, plus with plug version the smaller the size the more fiddley construction is