Hayfields 3D printed track workshop

[martin_wynne]

52 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

use up my terrible orange filament

 

hi keith,

 

the colour doesn't much matter, but for the timbering bricks you do need the toughened PLA-PLUS filament:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FQ75QG2

 

what john didn't mention is that in cura you need to create a custom printer and download the curaprofile settings file which i posted.

 

you might need to download a full version of cura rather than the cut-down bundled version supplied with printers.

 

john did it live on a zoom meeting a couple of days ago. it's all in the zoom recordings online on templot club.

 

i don't think you will get such good results using a standard profile supplied with a printer.

 

john, i posted an updated profile reduced from 190 to 180degs. did you try it? works fine here, i'm interested to know your results.

 

martin.

Edited November 18, 2023 by martin_wynne

[hayfield]

1 hour ago, martin_wynne said:

 

 

john, i posted an updated profile reduced from 190 to 180degs. did you try it? works fine here, i'm interested to know your results.

 

martin.

 

Martin

 

Not yet, I am still struggling with what happened to my computer after the update, and there has been 2 other updates one took 90+ mins to load

 

Its nothing to do with Templot plug in track just either a problem caused by a Windows update or the graphics card developing a fault

 

I now have 3D builder installed but as you know Cura stopped working. I have now re-loaded new Intel drivers but the problem persists, I am beginning to think its my computer at fault as the same warnings show on the Microsoft drivers, and tried all the suggested fix suggestions other than load a different driver,

 

Its a bit frustrating not being able to proceed. My son in law is a Apple user so has lost most of his windows knowledge. Given my computers age (and the odd gremlin it has always had) and the fact I dont have a lap top I am probably going to but a lap top with Windows 11  (no choice) It will buy me time to consider weather I need a desk top

 

Its now an urgent decision that needs acting on and will do very soon 

 

 

[KeithHC]

4 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

 

hi keith,

 

the colour doesn't much matter, but for the timbering bricks you do need the toughened PLA-PLUS filament:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FQ75QG2

 

what john didn't mention is that in cura you need to create a custom printer and download the curaprofile settings file which i posted.

 

you might need to download a full version of cura rather than the cut-down bundled version supplied with printers.

 

john did it live on a zoom meeting a couple of days ago. it's all in the zoom recordings online on templot club.

 

i don't think you will get such good results using a standard profile supplied with a printer.

 

john, i posted an updated profile reduced from 190 to 180degs. did you try it? works fine here, i'm interested to know your results.

 

martin.

Yet again thank you Martin I appreciate that for you at the moment typing is an issue yet you keep helping all of us. I am only joking about the filament colour. However all the trial pieces will be kept and potentially used in fiddle yards. I have set a track profile for Cura and also in Pursa. I have had some issues with printer settings and needed to alter the G code. Not the g code from the slicer. I am still working on creating the timber brick but will get there. I have managed to use the cut option in Pursa slicer to break down a full turnout Stl to print into two pieces. I will try that print tomorrow.

 

Keith

[hayfield]

Sorry I have been a bit quiet lately but the large windows update 10 days ago has affected my desk top, the desk top itself is mostly fine (it has a few quirks) my son in law was given it and updated it to Windows 10 and its been fine since, except looses the sleep function for several days after every update.

 

Firstly I could not down load 3D Builder (which is now solved) then this update disabled Cura, anyway I needed a lap top and for my sins I now have to learn Windows11

 

Up to now I have been printing half turnout bases, simply as it was an easy way to learn how to start printing. Now I have made a file which will print both halves. The print time is much the same as two prints but only the effort of one print. Last night for information sake we wanted to know what was the largest turnout we could print on these small machines. We got up to a C 10 and there was still space, but its split into 3 parts

 

 

Forget the control template on the right, this is the next print plate I will start tomorrow

 

The next plan is to print plain track

A turnout joined to a diamond crossing (this is a trial to see is we can in the short term get over the lack of obtuse (K) crossing chairs using Exactoscale obtuse crossing chairs)

 

Plus Martin asked when I was going to get the resin printer out of its box, so it will not be long before I start to print chairs.  

[Vistisen]

This is really interesting. I last used Templot several years ago, and still need to build about 6 turnouts fpor my current layout. I will have a go at doing these as 3Dprints. But I will need to do a bit of studying first to see how to do this. Time to start reading threads in the templot club.

[hayfield]

 

As you can see we can easily get 3 half 60' panels on the build plate, I guess at a pinch we could get another if I made the square 170mm and moved the panels closer together and against the right hand edge 

 

 

Or even 5 panels are possible

[hayfield]

11 minutes ago, Vistisen said:

This is really interesting. I last used Templot several years ago, and still need to build about 6 turnouts fpor my current layout. I will have a go at doing these as 3Dprints. But I will need to do a bit of studying first to see how to do this. Time to start reading threads in the templot club.

 

Vistisen

 

James Walters has produced 2 videos and there are some interesting posts regarding using the system, it is really a big step forward in track building as it has made the build process so very simple, whilst keeping the standard of detail so high.

 

It might not seem it but I am chumping at the bit to get some chairs printed,

[Vistisen]

3 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Vistisen

 

James Walters has produced 2 videos and there are some interesting posts regarding using the system, it is really a big step forward in track building as it has made the build process so very simple, whilst keeping the standard of detail so high.

 

It might not seem it but I am chumping at the bit to get some chairs printed,

Hi Hayfield

I have already seen one of the videos, James Walters has a lot of amazing videos, and his point motors are billiant. I am planning to try and use them on the points that I hope to build soon. Although 'soon' i always relative!

Edited November 19, 2023 by Vistisen

[KeithHC]

20 minutes ago, Vistisen said:

Hi Hayfield

I have already seen one of the videos, James Walters has a lot of amazing videos, and his point motors are billiant. I am planning to try and use them on the points that I hope to build soon. Although 'soon' i always relative!

I followed James video for plug track and went from zero to printable file in less than an hour. In the past few days I have printed out about yard of plain track timbers. Today I printed our a A6 turnout timbers. The print took 6 hours 25 minutes and an estimated cost of £0.42p.

 

Keith

[hayfield]

 

 

For those who have not gone to Templot, its a great watch, and infact a great tutorial + memory jogger

[hayfield]

42 minutes ago, Vistisen said:

Hi Hayfield

I have already seen one of the videos, James Walters has a lot of amazing videos, and his point motors are billiant. I am planning to try and use them on the points that I hope to build soon. Although 'soon' i always relative!

 

Vistisen

 

James is a very talented person, plus a very nice one. The other thing is he is a modeler with very exacting standards and usually finds ways of doing things better

 

 

 

James also did a critique of this very inexpensive printer £82 + postage, so if he likes it it has to be good

[hayfield]

23 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

I followed James video for plug track and went from zero to printable file in less than an hour. In the past few days I have printed out about yard of plain track timbers. Today I printed our a A6 turnout timbers. The print took 6 hours 25 minutes and an estimated cost of £0.42p.

 

Keith

 

 

Keith

 

Thanks for taking part in the thread, and you seem to have beat me to it.  Well done and do let us know how you are getting on

[KeithHC]

Thanks John I will be very interested in the resin setup. Currently my son-in-law has the same fdm printer I have so be bounce backwards and forwards with problems solutions etc. I think ne will be also very interested in the resin set up as well. I have always wanted to build my own track but have not got on with the relevant ways so far. It was not until I as allowed to bui.d one of the first kits from Wayne that it seamed to come together. I do call myself the ham fisted modeller and have looked on in awe of you and the other experts….. It was seeing the late Sid Stubbs layout in Railway Modeller many years ago that made me want to see if I could do it. I have set myself a challenge of building a small layout in EM as my first layout. So thanks to you and Martin I can see it happen in the next year.

 

Keith

[hayfield]

I mentioned earlier I have changed the build plate to a glass one and for optimum printing I was advised the use the plain side which you have to wipe a glue stick over. During a chat Martin thought I might be using a bit too much glue. Well I did as advised, but was a bit too stingy with it, and some of the printing would not stick/was stringing.

 

Anyway I stopped printing, cleaning the glass was very easy (I must have wiped the glue off rather than spread it). Let the plate go cold and started again with more glue on the build plate

 

The one benefit was the edging strip printed and on checking it the bed level is within 0.04 mm between all 4 corners

 

Todays exercise is to print both halves of a turnout, a much longer print time as twice the printing is to be done but half the effort. The machine will carry on as I do other things most of which is non railway modelling

 

 

[hayfield]

2 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

Thanks John I will be very interested in the resin setup. Currently my son-in-law has the same fdm printer I have so be bounce backwards and forwards with problems solutions etc. I think ne will be also very interested in the resin set up as well. I have always wanted to build my own track but have not got on with the relevant ways so far. It was not until I as allowed to bui.d one of the first kits from Wayne that it seamed to come together. I do call myself the ham fisted modeller and have looked on in awe of you and the other experts….. It was seeing the late Sid Stubbs layout in Railway Modeller many years ago that made me want to see if I could do it. I have set myself a challenge of building a small layout in EM as my first layout. So thanks to you and Martin I can see it happen in the next year.

 

Keith

 

Keith

 

If your son in law has the same printer Martin has posted the Cura settings to optimize the quality and print time, there are two one for the track the other for the jigs. Well worth doing

 

The whole thought process is ease of build, and forming the rails the switch filing jigs are the best in town !!!  The vee filing jig is a fraction of the cost of machined ones

[KeithHC]

Thanks John we both use Pursa slicer and I have a track profile already. My next task is to print the filing jig and sort the profile for that out as well. One thing that has come up when i save the fixed file in Templot and then open in Pursa I have to do a further Stl fix. It is simple just a right click on the item and select Netfab again this is an Stl repair utility online once done no further problems I can then inPursa save the item again as a fully fixed g-code with all the profiles embedded. Also I do not have to worry about doing extra glue on my build plate. I also use a Pei bed.

 

Keith

Edited November 20, 2023 by KeithHC
Correction

[Methuselah]

Cant.

 

I have several queries regarding track Cant. This relates to modelling the Shrewsbury & Hereford Rly in Edwardian times, circa 1912, when it was LNWR/GWR Joint - if that makes any difference ;-

 

a) Is there a relatively quick/easy way to lay track with the correct amount of Cant...?

 

b) On a double track main line - such as the S&H, would the two Canted tracks be level with each-other, or would the whole track-bed be Canted....?

 

c) Was the Cant used on connected branch lines, such as the Tenbury Branch different owing to the lower speeds - 40mph max' in that case....?

 

Any info'/suggestions much appreciated.

[martin_wynne]

33 minutes ago, Methuselah said:

Cant.

 

I have several queries regarding track Cant. This relates to modelling the Shrewsbury & Hereford Rly in Edwardian times, circa 1912, when it was LNWR/GWR Joint - if that makes any difference ;-

 

a) Is there a relatively quick/easy way to lay track with the correct amount of Cant...?

 

b) On a double track main line - such as the S&H, would the two Canted tracks be level with each-other, or would the whole track-bed be Canted....?

 

c) Was the Cant used on connected branch lines, such as the Tenbury Branch different owing to the lower speeds - 40mph max' in that case....?

 

Any info'/suggestions much appreciated.

 

hi,

 

a)

The usual way to introduce superelevation into model trackwork is to angle the baseboard risers, something like this:

 

These can be adjusted on each cross-member to create the required cant gradients (twisting transitions) in the trackbed material at each end of the curve.

n.b. these twists will cause derailments on a model unless you are modelling radii and lengths to exact scale, i.e. you are building a layout in a barn. general advice is to understate model superelevation unless you can model the cant gradients to exact scale. even then it requires models having suitable suspension.

 

b)

the two tracks would be level. the underlying trackbed is level. superelevation is done with the ballast.

but to model it, split the tracks in two, as a) above. putting packing under model track makes it difficult to get a constant top and smooth cant gradient at each end.

 

c)

probably yes. but done empirically by the p.w. gang to minimise track maintenance, rather than to specific engineering drawings.

 

martin.

[Methuselah]

24 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

 

hi,

 

a)

The usual way to introduce superelevation into model trackwork is to angle the baseboard risers, something like this:

 

These can be adjusted on each cross-member to create the required cant gradients (twisting transitions) in the trackbed material at each end of the curve.

n.b. these twists will cause derailments on a model unless you are modelling radii and lengths to exact scale, i.e. you are building a layout in a barn. general advice is to understate model superelevation unless you can model the cant gradients to exact scale. even then it requires models having suitable suspension.

 

b)

the two tracks would be level. the underlying trackbed is level. superelevation is done with the ballast.

but to model it, split the tracks in two, as a) above. putting packing under model track makes it difficult to get a constant top and smooth cant gradient at each end.

 

c)

probably yes. but done empirically by the p.w. gang to minimise track maintenance, rather than to specific engineering drawings.

 

martin.

Thank you Martin. I don't think there'll be a problem with derailment, as I'm modelling Woofferton, and the curve is very mild. I have 50'.

- How do I calculate the correct Cant...?

- How do the full-size reconcile points where there is Cant....? For example, even today, there is a goods-loop between Woofferton and where the A49 crosses. Both points are on that long curve. I'm presuming the ends of the loop dip to rise at the correct angle...?

[martin_wynne]

38 minutes ago, Methuselah said:

I'm modelling Woofferton,

 

hi,

 

if modelling Woofferton, you may be interested in this video:

 

 https://85a.uk/templot/companion/get_map_from_the_web.php

 

martin.

[hayfield]

 

I went out twice and the machine just looked after itself, I came back caught up with a program on TV and once it was finished the print had stopped and the bed and track base was cooling down. As you can see there is space inside the grey boundary marker, but the more items on the bed the longer it will take to print. This turnout took 6.5 hours, but did it all on its own once started

 

 

The bases once taken off the printer track base, think it cost about 40p to print

[KeithHC]

And mine from today as well.

 

Keith

[hayfield]

On 20/11/2023 at 20:03, KeithHC said:

And mine from today as well.

 

Keith

 

 

Keith

 

Well done and I love the colour, thanks for sharing

[hayfield]

 

My next trial ia to design and print a diamond crossing, my build plate is 180mm, I have set a 170mm box around and I am hoping  Cura (slicing program will accept it. If not I will have to do 2 prints. This template shows the Templot design which now goes into the fixing program 3D Builder

 

 

This is the screen shot for 3D builder, the file is saved then you use Cura which slices up the design so the printer can print. I cannot show this as my desk top does not have Cura installed. Anyway a bit later than hoped I will start the print

[martin_wynne]

hi john,

 

there was no need for the rectangular slab -- it will be blocking in the sockets

 

no time to write more

 

martin,