RMweb Gold Markwj Posted January 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23 (edited) Just had a battle with mine to get the body off to fit a dcc chip. The instructions state to unclip the body from the sides of the chassis but at least some of the clips are part of the glazing and are under the chassis. They are part of the glazing and I will try to show this in the following pictures. You can see some of the clips in the four square holes on the underside of the chassis. Edited January 23 by Markwj More clarity over what I am wibbling about Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles73128 Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 3 minutes ago, Markwj said: Just had a battle with mine to get the body off to fit a dcc chip. The instructions state to unclip the body from the sides of the chassis but at least some of the clips are part of the glazing and are under the chassis. They are part of the glazing and I will try to show this in the following pictures. You can see some of the clips in the four square holes on the underside of the chassis. Just had the same, this afternoon when I was fitting a TXS! It’s a real s*d. Eventually forced it off, amazed the clips didn’t snap. It pulled some of the window glazing out, but I’ve found it pops back in-if you refit from the top of the window (the opening lights). Not at all sure why it had to be this hard! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Markwj Posted January 23 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23 Just now, miles73128 said: Just had the same, this afternoon when I was fitting a TXS! It’s a real s*d. Eventually forced it off, amazed the clips didn’t snap. It pulled some of the window glazing out, but I’ve found it pops back in-if you refit from the top of the window (the opening lights). Not at all sure why it had to be this hard! I found the instructions very misleading if it had told me there were clips underneath i wouldn’t have broke them! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Is it much of an upgrade on the old model? I have the 1980s refurbished version (which runs very well) and would like a blue/grey one. The old one is often available for around £50 online, so I am wondering if it's worth paying £130 for a new one? I'm DC only. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyman7 Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 It looks like the instructions aren't that clear. Although the mechanism has been amended the body/chassis looks unchanged from the original. Body removal is easy but you need to locate and ease back the extensions to the window glazing clips that actually secure the body to the underframe - there are slots in the chassis to facilitate this, bit that's obviously not as helpful if they don't point that out! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frobisher Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 13 hours ago, fezza said: Is it much of an upgrade on the old model? I have the 1980s refurbished version (which runs very well) and would like a blue/grey one. The old one is often available for around £50 online, so I am wondering if it's worth paying £130 for a new one? I'm DC only. I suspect the biggest improvement would be in the number of pickups (the original will have the one rail on one bogie and the other rail on the other setup of Hornby's whereas the new one will have all wheel pick up (including from the traction tyred wheels)), and the paint job will be better (though the 110 was around the start of where Hornby really started upping their game and minimal use of self coloured plastic and lots of printed details). 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted January 24 Moderators Share Posted January 24 It occupied more than its fair share of time and profanities when I was doing the review. Trying to get the glazing back home and re-assemble took even longer than getting in. 13 hours ago, fezza said: Is it much of an upgrade on the old model? I have the 1980s refurbished version (which runs very well) and would like a blue/grey one. The old one is often available for around £50 online, so I am wondering if it's worth paying £130 for a new one? I'm DC only. The motor's smoother (but no more powerful), obviously you don't need the decoder socket (not that the old one would be difficult to hardwire). 3 1 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted January 24 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24 It's nice to see the 110 reappear, it might not be the best model out there but it still appeals to me. I have a white 3-car one, despite it being too old for my usual era. I haven't DCC fitted it as it usually lives on a shelf. One thing I found with the older model is that replacing all of the trailing wheelsets (metal rims on plastic wheels) with newer style Hornby coach wheels vastly improved the running (they run much more freely and are better quality. All of the wheels on the samples in Andy's pics look like the chunky and not-so-nice-looking power bogie type, rather than different ones for the trailing wheels. I found that slicing off the huge coupling mount with a razor saw made a big improvement to the front end - I keep meaning to add some basic buffer beam details, but never quite get around to it. The price point does seem just a tad high to me, I could see it being very popular at the psychologically-enticing sub-hundred pound price of £99 (whether that'd be viable or not is an entirely different question of course), and like a lot of the other Railroad stuff it's a very sound basis for modellers who either can't afford, don't need, or don't want ultra-high-fidelity models that cost twice as much, or for those wanting to do some basic detailing and weathering projects. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
40002 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I thought about buying one of these but looks like a better motor and a DCC Socket is the limit of improvement. The 110 is perfect for the period and area I am modelling, but I would need to buy a second hand centre car and reinstate 1st class. But when I compare to my Bachmann DMU's with internal and external lighting I find it difficult to justify really, especially when I had this model 30 years ago and there really very little improvement. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted January 24 Moderators Share Posted January 24 39 minutes ago, JDW said: All of the wheels on the samples in Andy's pics look like the chunky and not-so-nice-looking power bogie type, rather than different ones for the trailing wheels. A point noted in the review. I was quite looking forward to seeing a reasonable old model getting lift. I'm bemused by what gives it the 'plus' bit to be Railroad Plus. I suppose it's a blessing as it was pictured as a 101 in our media briefing. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PeterStiles Posted January 24 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24 49 minutes ago, AY Mod said: the 'plus' bit to be Railroad Plus. From what I read, all "plus" means is they paint it in more colours, normal Railroad products having a limit of, I think I read, three colours... 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Markwj Posted January 24 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24 5 hours ago, AY Mod said: It occupied more than its fair share of time and profanities when I was doing the review. Trying to get the glazing back home and re-assemble took even longer than getting in. The motor's smoother (but no more powerful), obviously you don't need the decoder socket (not that the old one would be difficult to hardwire). Thanks Andy your pic of the window clip is obviously better than mine. So all my years of taking trains apart I pull the body side out to release the clip but in this case pulling the body side out is the opposite of what you should do because of the orientation of the clip. The instructions as shown above don’t mention these clips. I don’t know if I can be bothered to tell Hornby and tell them how their own models are put together- shouldn’t have too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted January 24 Moderators Share Posted January 24 27 minutes ago, PeterStiles said: From what I read, all "plus" means is they paint it in more colours, normal Railroad products having a limit of, I think I read, three colours... Compare the 110 with the Strathclyde 101 and work that one out. And then look at the Network Rail 101. No wonder average Joe is confused. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great Waterton Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 I'd still really like the MetroTrain one. I'm hoping it might be reduced a little bit in a sale at some point but I'm not holding my breath. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhydgaled Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 16 hours ago, JDW said: All of the wheels on the samples in Andy's pics look like the chunky and not-so-nice-looking power bogie type, rather than different ones for the trailing wheels. Chunky they may be but only the coach with the motor has short axles. The two unpowered coaches have longer axles with a point at the end which pokes into the bogie frame almost like on a normal Hornby coach. I say almost because on the Railroad Plus 110 the bogie frame actually has a slot in it so there is less/no need to push the bogie frames out sideways to remove the axle (can't remember the exact arrangement). I think all the wheels are metal though on all three coaches (the one I have is the green 3-car set) and they tend to derail in the same place on my temporary layout that the old Hornby Collett bow-enders (the ones that are now in the Railroad range though mine are all pre-Railroad) did when fitted with new Hornby metal wheels (but the older plastic wheels on those coaches seem fine so I suspect it is the track at fault). 16 hours ago, JDW said: The motor on mine made an odd noise occasionally when running it on the track, but only in one direction. I later tried to get the body off to see if the motor needed some lubricant but couldn't get it off and couldn't reproduce the noise on my workbench so have given up for now. 14 hours ago, PeterStiles said: From what I read, all "plus" means is they paint it in more colours, normal Railroad products having a limit of, I think I read, three colours... Isn't there something about printing details as well? Eg. no data panels, electrification warning flashes etc. on a Railroad model (and the Railroad version of Flying Scotsman in LNER green which looked very wrong to me with the lettering done in one colour without the signature drop shadows etc.). My Railroad Plus 110 has electrification warning flashes, C1 painted on the inner end of vehicles, no smoking and first stickers on the glazing etc. Don't Railroad coaches normally also have plastic wheels? Pretty sure my 110 has metal ones throughout. 21 hours ago, frobisher said: I suspect the biggest improvement would be in the number of pickups (the original will have the one rail on one bogie and the other rail on the other setup of Hornby's whereas the new one will have all wheel pick up (including from the traction tyred wheels)) Only the motor car has pickups of course, since the trailers are only coupled with a tension lock. But yes, all eight wheels on the motor car seem to have pickups even though two of those wheels have traction tyres. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted January 25 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25 1 hour ago, Rhydgaled said: Chunky they may be but only the coach with the motor has short axles. The two unpowered coaches have longer axles with a point at the end which pokes into the bogie frame almost like on a normal Hornby coach. I say almost because on the Railroad Plus 110 the bogie frame actually has a slot in it so there is less/no need to push the bogie frames out sideways to remove the axle (can't remember the exact arrangement). I think all the wheels are metal though on all three coaches (the one I have is the green 3-car set) and they tend to derail in the same place on my temporary layout that the old Hornby Collett bow-enders (the ones that are now in the Railroad range though mine are all pre-Railroad) did when fitted with new Hornby metal wheels (but the older plastic wheels on those coaches seem fine so I suspect it is the track at fault). The motor on mine made an odd noise occasionally when running it on the track, but only in one direction. I later tried to get the body off to see if the motor needed some lubricant but couldn't get it off and couldn't reproduce the noise on my workbench so have given up for now. Interesting about the wheels - I presume that was the easiest option at whichever factory produced them. The slot in the bogie is vital, if I remember right, as the bogie frames are pretty stiff. Unlike, say, the ex-Lima 156 where there's enough flex to be able to easily pop the axles out. Re the noise, mine was doing that. Like a dull screeching kind of noise. I can't remember if I ever cured it, it's so long since I ran it, but I seem to remember pinpointing it to being that the motor output shaft was spinning but the small gear on it was slipping. Something else I found with mine, especially in the extreme temperatures of the loft, were that the bogies could become a bit stiff and not rotate freely. Unclipping them and a few light strokes of a file plus rubbing some graphite from a pencil on the contact surfaces seemed to sort it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyman7 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 On 24/01/2024 at 12:26, frobisher said: I suspect the biggest improvement would be in the number of pickups (the original will have the one rail on one bogie and the other rail on the other setup of Hornby's whereas the new one will have all wheel pick up (including from the traction tyred wheels)), and the paint job will be better (though the 110 was around the start of where Hornby really started upping their game and minimal use of self coloured plastic and lots of printed details). The Margate ones were engineered like that but from 1998 the China Ringfield models had all-wheel pickups 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great Waterton Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 The wheels have always been quite chunky but as a youngster I liked that because it never derailed... These days I'd paint the wheel edges/faces to disguise the fact and then let it run around merrily, though I understand why others would want finer wheelsets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted January 25 Moderators Share Posted January 25 33 minutes ago, Great Waterton said: I understand why others would want finer wheelsets. Or ones that look a bit like the real ones, or even the old ones at a push. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 23 hours ago, AY Mod said: I'm bemused by what gives it the 'plus' bit to be Railroad Plus. But everything becomes better if you put a "plus" after it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 3 hours ago, Edwardian said: But everything becomes better if you put a "plus" after it. I think that example means "plus added aggro from the Gestapo-like staff". 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 (edited) I would have liked a revamped version. The one on the ELR is a fantastic unit, as is the pair of driving cars at the L&HR. Who needs steam with this clag! Jason Edited January 26 by Steamport Southport 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jonnyuk Posted January 26 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 26 we get your point since you have splashed it across a couple of Hornby threads now, you don't think much of RailRoad Plus. Have you looked at some of the diesels in that range, the plus really does make a huge difference? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
On30runner Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 16 hours ago, AY Mod said: Or ones that look a bit like the real ones, or even the old ones at a push. Never fear https://www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/view/CAT007/364 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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