Andy Siddall Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks Michael, The only difference is that yours are more square at the diaphragm end! (Hardly noticeable). I do like the cabling just heading under the engine cover plate, rather reminds me of the wiring on my Landrover . Going to try and get the yellow ends done this morning, I would like to be able to have it assembled for a club running session on Tuesday! Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dg40014 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi Andy, Great thread and very useful as my 06 is coming along nicely - with great big thanks to your comments and photos posted here. I do have one small problem though - where on earth do I find buffers for this cutie? I have searched high and low, tried JLTRT site, Slaters, Roxey, no-one seems to have oval loco buffers to suit. Perhaps some one reading this or yourself could please, please direct me to a supplier........... Thanks in advance, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Softvark Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi Dave I got mine from Markits - see p1 of this thread Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dg40014 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi Julian, I must have overlooked that, the buffers you have fitted look great, nice work on the loco too, very neat. I will order some buffers right away. Many thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 17, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2011 Prestige Models L10 are correct for the 06. Michael Edge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Andy, when I've used the Gladiator plungers. I used to bend the two legs so that they were parallel to one another, this was to prevent possible shorts from the leg that went into the PCB. Where the plunger goes through. I also put some plastic tube through the frames just in case. This was not my idea but picked up from one of the mags. Locos looking nice. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dg40014 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi Michael, Thank you for the update. Maybe you could add this advice to the instructions as I was in a right quandary with this problem. Great kit by the way , a very enjoyable build, it goes together very well. Best regards, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 17, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2011 Done. Michael Edge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 Work continues on the painting and final detailing of the 06, I sadly did not make it to the club for a test run on Tuesday as work got in the way as usual . However, the custom data panels have arrived from John at Precision labels and one has been put on. I still have the lamps and brackets to go on the rear cab and then some final weathering. The rear wasp stripes were added from Fox transfers and applied in 2 halves, above and below the rivet strip. To put it politely they were a right royal pain in the **** to do Due to some furniture rearrangements in the house, a small tidy up of the kit opile was in order. Whilst going through some old boxes i discovered a few RJH kits in various stages of build. This POA was probably started about 10 years ago, I had completed the detail on one side and end before stalling. I had a bit of time on Wednesday afternoon and have now got it to the priming stage, I have another one to do and will post pics of that in the future! The above picture is the side that was made up 10 years ago and the one below is last weeks attempt, it was interesting too see how my skills and methods have changed in that time..... I also found an unstarted SPA kit which I have decided to build next, I think these wagons may have to be the start of a small Speedlink service. Here I have folded the solebars and added the support brackets, the floor has also been folded and the load supports added. Due to the thinness of the material and the depth of the half etches for rivet detail, when I punched them the tool went straight through the brass, therefore all of the rivets on this wagon are Scale Hardware 0.7mm ones soldered in . I also found a Sealion kit that I have previously punched the rivet detail through and then left, watch this space as that may well appear on here too in the not too distant! Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 That "06" is lovely. BTW, is the cab roof supposed to have that open gap at the rear? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 25, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2011 No, it's supposed to be soldered on with access to the cab interior from below - as in all our kits. Michael Edge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 Hello, I followed the Brian Daniels school of roof fixing here, the roof is currently held on with tabs made from old fret and will be more permanently fixed after I have finished the interior. Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hello, First update for a little while but work seems to be getting in the way of modelling life again. Just managing to grab about 2 hours build time at the weekends at the moment. The 06 still needs weathering and glazing but i ma waiting for a period of time when I can spend a few hours on doing that all at once. I have therefore decided to start my next project as a little soldering for a couple of hours can be quite relaxing. To this end I have decided to start my Modern Motive Power Class 13 Kit. I must say that most of the inspiration to start this build was seeing Brian Daniels build of the JLTRT class 08. Having previously built an MMP 08, I know that this build is going to take some time. Personally I like a kit that I can get my teeth into and also one that is not over in the blink of an eye, MMP kits are very well detailed and great fun to build, but as David Parkins has said, these kits are not advisable for beginners. I have started as the instructions suggested, building the running boards. These now have the front and back steps added along with all of the brake cylinder detail. Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Wow, two posts in a day! After an enjoyable afternoon steaming 5" B1, I have just managed to get an hour in on the class 13 before I have to get ready for the week ahead. I have now got the front and rear buffer beams attached. These are laminated from 4 pieces of brass each and then added to the main running boards that we have so far, I have not added the detail to them yet, I suppose now that that may get done next weekend, time allowing. Anyway here are a couple of pictures of the finished buffer beams, the master being the one on the right ( if I remember correctly), anyway we now should slowly start to see some differences between the Master and Slave units. Oh and although I have now edited the title of this thread, I forgot to mention that this first loco will be 13001 in BR Blue. I do plan to build all 3 but not one after the other so I shall be building them in numerical order. The front ends. The Rear ends. Thanks for looking Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium keefer Posted May 22, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2011 just noticed this thread recently. love your 06 from a while back, but for 06008, the numbers are 'interesting'! seems to have the zeros in the old pre-tops style, but with the 6 and 8 in normal modern style http://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/4273838876/ still a great wee shunter, always nice to see some ScR! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Thanks Keefer, The numbers on 06008 are something I either hadn't noticed or paid any special attention too. As the loco has been varnished although very lightly I may not be able to get the transfers to come off. I do however have the replacements available in the pre-tops style should I wish. As I am now away for the week I will have plenty of time to ponder... Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hi everyone, Another weekend has passed and a little bit more got done this weekend. I decided that I should make a start on the chassis today as that would allow me to build everything else up around it. I am pleased that I did as this meant that I did not add any more detail to the running boards and bufferbeams, a blessing as we shall see later. The chassis is a very simple folded up 'U' channel with a strengthening plate at the motor end. The kit is designed with either the RG7 or ABC mini7 in mind, although there is an adaptor for the RJH type of Buhler motor should one require. I however have decided to try fitting a roxey 40:1 gearbox and mashima 1833 combination, these being roughly the same size as the RG7. Compensation is provided either by using a compensation beam inside the chassis or by utilising the hornblocks in the outside frames. On my model of 08510, I used the beam and have found this to be both reliable and simple and so that is what I shall be using here. Photo 1 shows one of the chassis and the beams for both, laminated and cleaned up ready for adding. At this point I could just not resist popping the wheels in to get a quick idea of where we are. I then removed the wheels and added some 1mm brass bar across the chassis to take the brake blocks, I have not added these yet as I think it is easier to paint the chassis and add the wheels before putting the blocks in place. To finish the day I decided to make a start on the inside frames and this is where I came unstuck. For once in my life I had decided to build this model as per the instructions, the suggested build order is Running Boards, Chassis and then outside frames. The only problem here is that if you add all of the detail to the running boards then that makes getting the outside frames into place all the more difficult. Luckily i had not fully detailed the running boards and so I only had to remove a small amount of detail in order to get the outside frames into position. (don't worry the frame is not bent that is just an effect of the flash). Alas this little setback has meant that I only got the L/H frames added and so I will carry on with the R/H frames next time. Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 I look forward to seeing them running at Bourne End Sunday Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hi Brian, Sadly due to having to work I don't think that I will be able to make Sunday so I won't be able to run them. Maybe later in the year I may be able to bring it along! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Hi Andy, I'm planning to build a Class 13 in 4mm scale and noticed that the bolts on the bufferbeams are very prominent - this doesn't seem to be the case on your kit, unless they are to be added later. Just a suggestion: I plan to use 16BA nuts (with the hole filled in) to represent these bolt heads, which is slightly over-scale in 4mm, so maybe you could use something similar to 'beef up' yours? If you look at any photo of the real thing you'll see what I mean. Cheers, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Hi Andy, I'm planning to build a Class 13 in 4mm scale and noticed that the bolts on the bufferbeams are very prominent - this doesn't seem to be the case on your kit, unless they are to be added later. Just a suggestion: I plan to use 16BA nuts (with the hole filled in) to represent these bolt heads, which is slightly over-scale in 4mm, so maybe you could use something similar to 'beef up' yours? If you look at any photo of the real thing you'll see what I mean. Cheers, Will There is another layer of these to be added yet. Parts 15 in the kit. David Parkins, Modern Motive Power Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I'm going to watch this one, it seems to go together as well as rest of the MMP range. Either a 13 or and 08 are pretty high on the purchase list for later this year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hi Andy, I'm planning to build a Class 13 in 4mm scale and noticed that the bolts on the bufferbeams are very prominent - this doesn't seem to be the case on your kit, unless they are to be added later. Just a suggestion: I plan to use 16BA nuts (with the hole filled in) to represent these bolt heads, which is slightly over-scale in 4mm, so maybe you could use something similar to 'beef up' yours? If you look at any photo of the real thing you'll see what I mean. Cheers, Will Hello Will, All, or you could use the Scale Hardware simulated bolts available from Scale Hardware or Eileen's. Both are on the web. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hi All, Will, as David said above, the overlays to get the extra depth on the bolts are in the kit, however I have decided not to fit them using a standard soldering iron, I am looking at purchasing a RSU in the non too distant and think that this would achieve better results. Ozzy O, the bolts are simulated on the bufferbeam frontplate etch, they just have an overlay to add extra depth, while I like the scale hardware bolts I think that the effort in getting them to fit over the original etched detail would be too great and as David has nicely provided beautifully etched overlays........ Boris, Go for it..... Whilst the MMP kits are complex and rewarded by taking a little time over the build, they are personally amongst some of the most rewarding kits that I have had the pleasure to build. The detail that David provides is second to none. I suppose the 08 is the more useful loco to build for general use and I must get around to doing another in the future, but being a Sheffield lad however I think that the Class 13 is a must, I plan on modelling the whole class . All I need now is a very large baseboard with a hump in the middle.. Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 All I need now is a very large baseboard with a hump in the middle.. Cheers Andy Andy - And working wagon retarders! Now wouldn't that be a thing?! Did you get your axles from Slaters??? I have purchsed all the rest now but I said they should keep six back for you! Regards, David Parkins Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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