DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[DLT]

Another useful gadget is a height checking base.  This is a slab of black perspex, with two flange-ways milled into it (from back when I had access to a milling-machine) but could easily be made from plywood & styrene-sheet, circuit-board etc.

With many height dimensions quoted from rail-level, it allows you to easily measure just that.  Also useful for checking if your model is sitting level by comparing height at various points, end to end and side to side.  I use it a lot.

 

 

 

 

[DLT]

 

[DLT]

 

[DLT]

I like to work on all the parts of a loco at the same time so that I can see how it all fits together as I go.

So here are the main loco body parts.  The boiler barrel comes pre-rolled, firebox and cab are whitemetal assemblies.

 

 

 

 

Something looked wrong, and I realised the firebox isnt fat enough.  the rear is ok where it meets the cab, but it should be wider at the front.  I think I can cut a slit part-way along the top , open it up and insert a triangular piece. 

 

 

Some of the superb bought-in additions to replace some rather misshapen whitemetal castings.  Markits supplied the vaccuum tank set for the tender and the "bacon-slicer" reverser.

The dome and Lamaitre chimney are brass turnings from PDK Models.  Excellent service from both suppliers.

 

Edited August 26, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

The fit of the motion parts is good on this kit, but as usual I felt the need to beef up the front end with an extra frame spacer.  The slidebars are not connected to the cylinders, but hang from a separate whitemetal motion bracket.  For strength I fixed this to the cylinder assembly using two square brass rods.

 

 

Motion assembly is going to be fun.  The etched slidebars need to be soldered to the whitemetal bracket, with the crosshead in position between them, permanently trapping it.

 

Some time ago, the Chairman of our Group gave everyone one of these:

 

Its an extremely fine file, only 0.6mm thick.  I can't remember what its was called, but it really came into its own today, for the slots in the etched slidebars  They needed the etch cusp filing off and opening out slightly to match the sliding part of the crosshead (the slipper?) also carefully smoothed.

I would prefer the moving parts to be cast brass, but whitemetal can be perfectly ok if carefully assembled.

[pete_mcfarlane]

That's a slotting file - normally used for making slots in screw heads. They also have some use by guitarists, as mine came from a music supplier. As you say, useful for opening up not-quite-properly etched slots. 

[Barry Ten]

18 hours ago, DLT said:

The fit of the motion parts is good on this kit, but as usual I felt the need to beef up the front end with an extra frame spacer.  The slidebars are not connected to the cylinders, but hang from a separate whitemetal motion bracket.  For strength I fixed this to the cylinder assembly using two square brass rods.

 

 

 

Motion assembly is going to be fun.  The etched slidebars need to be soldered to the whitemetal bracket, with the crosshead in position between them, permanently trapping it.

 

 

Now that you've shown it, it reminds me that the same arrangement is used on the Craftsman Schools chassis. I was a bit dubious that it would work (or that I could solder it) but it was actually fine in practise and gave no trouble.

Edited August 26, 2022 by Barry Ten

[DLT]

3 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

Now that you've shown it, it reminds me that the same arrangement is used on the Craftsman Schools chassis. I was a bit dubious that it would work (or that I could solder it) but it was actually fine in practise and gave no trouble.

Thanks Barry, that's very reassuring!

[DLT]

Its done!    The etched slidebars needed a double-bend in them, and doing this to fit without braking them was certainly fun.  Then they had to be soldered to the somewhat fine whitemetal bracket, while holding them in the right position with the crosshead in between.

But hey, its done and it works!

 

 

 

 

 

[Martync]

Dave

This is what I call miniature model engineering at its best!!  I've never managed to assemble any kind of a chassis that ran well, no matter how simple it's meant to be, so I take my hat off to you and all the other modellers who produce such wonderful models.  I'm too old to learn now, so shall just enjoy watching your beautiful constructions..........

Best regards

Martyn

[RAY NORWOOD]

2 hours ago, Martync said:

Dave

This is what I call miniature model engineering at its best!!  I've never managed to assemble any kind of a chassis that ran well, no matter how simple it's meant to be, so I take my hat off to you and all the other modellers who produce such wonderful models.  I'm too old to learn now, so shall just enjoy watching your beautiful constructions..........

Best regards

Martyn

Hi Martyn. I am 74 getting on 75 and I started to scratch building Southern M7 my first  locomotive last year so there no excuse that I am to old to learn.

Edited September 1, 2022 by RAY NORWOOD

[DLT]

Never too old to try new tricks Martyn!

 

Assembled the valve gear, fiddly but much the same as usual.  I've restored the lost photos from the post I did on valvegear assembly, just here  if it is of interest.

 

[DLT]

While I'm about it, here's a look at the pickup plate.  It goes the whole length of the chassis as it will need the spring detail attaching to it, and the pickup wires are temporary.

I was fortunate to pickup some very thin copperclad sheet from the late BGman's sales stand at the Taunton SWAG meet, and its just the job here.

[DLT]

While fiddling with some photos, I've started replacing the photos in this topic that disappeared (those that I can still find)

Its a big task and I'll do it a bit at a time, but the DJH S15  and  Finecast Q  are back.

[hayfield]

On 03/09/2022 at 17:45, DLT said:

While I'm about it, here's a look at the pickup plate.  It goes the whole length of the chassis as it will need the spring detail attaching to it, and the pickup wires are temporary.

I was fortunate to pickup some very thin copperclad sheet from the late BGman's sales stand at the Taunton SWAG meet, and its just the job here.

 

 

You make fitting pickups look so simple, mine start off like this but quickly deteriorate 

[DLT]

20 hours ago, DLT said:

While fiddling with some photos, I've started replacing the photos in this topic that disappeared (those that I can still find)

Its a big task and I'll do it a bit at a time, but the DJH S15  and  Finecast Q  are back.

 

Couldn't face running out to the workshop in the pouring rain (or taking the dog for a walk) so had a session on photo replacement.

Now replaced the photos up to page 44 of this topic.

[Martync]

Dave

All of your model threads are amazing! I wish I had the time to trawl through them all.  I guess the issue I’ve had over the years, and I suspect many others, is actually lack of money. Our finances have been focussed on offspring going to university and before. When you’re shelling out £2000 a month to support your children at uni there is precious little left for hobbies….even when they’ve finished and graduated……it’s far easier to make use of the splendid offerings now from the ready to run market……I shall leave you miniature model engineers to you wonderful modellers!!

Martyn

[hayfield]

13 hours ago, Martync said:

Dave

All of your model threads are amazing! I wish I had the time to trawl through them all.  I guess the issue I’ve had over the years, and I suspect many others, is actually lack of money. Our finances have been focussed on offspring going to university and before. When you’re shelling out £2000 a month to support your children at uni there is precious little left for hobbies….even when they’ve finished and graduated……it’s far easier to make use of the splendid offerings now from the ready to run market……I shall leave you miniature model engineers to you wonderful modellers!!

Martyn

 

Martyn

 

How lucky we were with our daughter going to uni in 1999, even then we thought it was expensive. Thankfully she paid off her loan quite a few years ago

 

Whilst I agree with you about the quality in detail of new RTR stock, I am a bit concerned about their longevity and reparability. Perhaps a new market will appear in replacement chassis kits

 

On the face of it you are right in that some of the costs of new kits are equally extremely high. A mid priced tank loco could be nearer £200 once wheels, motor and gears are bought

 

But there are many examples of complete un built kits fetching well under £100. I paid £56 for a Southeastern Finecast SECR P class with wheels and motor. £74 got me a SEF complete with a Mashima Can motor. Quite a few others also find other kits as cheap. These type of kits tend to be easy to build, but most of all hours of pleasure to build at a fraction of the cost of new RTR locos

 

Sometimes even better value items can be found with either kit built of part built items, and if you are lucky you may come across some real stunners for little or nothing, but be discerning as not everything that glitters is gold. Finding decent new quality cheap RTR models is a lot harder as competition is much higher.

 

Building a loco kit does not require deep pockets if you are canny 

[DLT]

Right, I have now restored all the lost photos to this topic, and it wasn't anything like as daunting as I supposed.  Starting on the Narrow Gauge Workbench now.

 

And I certainly have NOT neglected the modelling while doing this!

 

I'm working on the Nelson boiler now, trying to get it looking right.  I said earlier that a trial assembly had resulted in it looking too thin, and not capturing the bulky look of the real thing.  I've fattened the firebox (no pictures, not sure I would recommend the method...)  bit still might not be enough.  Fattening the boiler-barrel leaves a big gap at the seam though.

 

I'll get there.

Dave.

[cctransuk]

36 minutes ago, DLT said:

I'm working on the Nelson boiler now, trying to get it looking right.  I said earlier that a trial assembly had resulted in it looking too thin, and not capturing the bulky look of the real thing.  I've fattened the firebox (no pictures, not sure I would recommend the method...)  bit still might not be enough.  Fattening the boiler-barrel leaves a big gap at the seam though.

 

I'll get there.

Dave.

 

Surely a drawing would indicate if the boiler / firebox is correct and, if not, how much it needs to be increased in diameter?

 

CJI.

Edited September 8, 2022 by cctransuk

[DLT]

On 08/09/2022 at 17:52, cctransuk said:

 

Surely a drawing would indicate if the boiler / firebox is correct and, if not, how much it needs to be increased in diameter?

CJI.

Hi,

Yes I have drawings, but I'm trying to get the relationship between the cast whitemetal firebox and the brass rolled boiler just right.  They are both a bit on the slim side. 

I have widened the firebox as discussed earlier.  No photos as I wouldn't recommend the method....

[DLT]

Ok, I think I've sorted the boiler and firebox dimensions.  Bit of a saga as I ended up breaking the firebox in two, partly along one of my solder joints and partly through a very thin bit of casting.  Anyway, its back together and now has some extra reinforcing on the inside from the whitemetal scrapbox.  Thank goodness for today's compact motors and gearboxes giving space to do this.

 

 

And the whole thing perched together to check the proportions.  I haven't offered up the splasher casting yet, and those gaps in the firebox look a bit large.

 

 

I thought the smokeplates looked a bit small, but they are actually ok.

[Blandford1969]

How much wider is the firebox now?

[DLT]

14 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

How much wider is the firebox now?

Havent actually measured it, but it fits with the boiler barrel now.  Barrel is a tad under 25mm diameter, and initially the firebox rattled around when offered up, and was actually narrower.

There is an outward step where the barrel meets the firebox:

 

It was while trying to widen the castings (and getting them to bend in the right place) that I broke it.

[DLT]

Being an early etched kit, there is no half-etched detail, meaning that the rivets round the smokebox are missing, and an overlay is needed.

As there is no obvious step in diameter at this point, I kept the overlay as thin as possible, and luckily I had some 5thou brass sheet.  A strip 22mm wide was riveted along both sides, and then curved to fit.  The curve was formed by bending it round bits of rod of ever decreasing sizes, and trial fitted to the (pre-formed) boiler to work out where the cuts and outer curves were needed.  there is lot of trial and error in this, but you get there in the end.

 

 

 

When all was correct, it was Rapid-Araldited in position, being positioned held in the fingers until it started to harden.  You need to constantly check every angle in case it moves, slides, or springs out.  Eventually fingers were replaced by clamps and clothes-pegs and left overnight.

 

 

Of course you cover up any etched holes doing this, but they can be re-located.

Edited September 19, 2022 by DLT