RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 17, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2015 Hi JeffP, Yes I buffed the wheels and tyres up afterwards Hi Fastdax, It certainly is... well a multi-meter across them testing continuity shows they are ok Cheers Lee Just a thought Lee, did you test between tread and axle/wheel or did you test from rail to axle? I am wondering if the resistance is any greater rail to tread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi David, Nice to see you reading this thread again. All I did was put a multi-meter across opposite side of the wheel tyre in the case of the insulated wheels and for the non-insulated I put the meter on the tyre and the axle. Continuity wasn't a problem at all. I don't have any track (yet) but when I do I shall test again and let you know the outcome - I can't imagine it will be any different though. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hello, Yesterday wasn't such a great day in terms of progress but nevertheless I managed a bit of cab detailing so that I could spray the cabs with a coat of etch primer. The details I added were to the side of the drivers console just using some plastic/ 0.5mm rod and a bit of copper wire: It took me a little longer than I had anticipated to get that small amount of work done but it was a valuable lesson in bending the rod in the right way to get exactly what I wanted. A lesson I needed to be honest as the pipework that has to be added to the bogie side frames is going to be a nightmare. Once the detail bits were finished I then managed to set up my spray booth to get all of the buffer beam detail parts and the insides of the cabs sprayed with Phoenix Precision two part etch primer: With all that out of the way I decided to drill out all the necessary holes for marker and headcode lighting then glue the nose onto the front of the loco body. During a test fit I have noticed how the loco body is difficult to get onto two moulded rails. I need to think of a way how the body can be fitted once the cab is added because I won't be able to part the sides of the body to allow them to fit either side of the rails... perhaps a small strut placed inside the body that exerts just enough outward pressure to parts the sides or something like that.... Hmmmm. Anyway here are two pics of the test fitting: (Oops - just noticed that I've put the bogie frames on the wrong way around at the cab end - No.2 end??) Another problem reared its head too.... have a look at these pics: The combination of Slaters gearbox and Mashima motor sits quite high within the body. For one bogie this is not a problem, however for the motor bogie that sits beneath the fan housing it is a problem. I first thought 'ah I'll just cut the motor shaft back using the Xuron cutters'... Hmmm, well, that plan went wrong and only dented the cutter blades!! I guess the motor shafts are made of rather strong steel. I guess I need a hacksaw!! Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 18, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 18, 2015 You will likely need a mini drill and cutting disc to cut the shaft easily, they are very hard chromed steel usually. As for the body, how about a small chamfer on the inside of the body sides, just enough to ease it onto the locating rails, otherwise as you suggest a small bulkhead type wall across with a slight angle on the sides to slip the body down and open it slightly. I love watching these JLTRT builds, and one day I will carry on building my Cl40 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 There was a thread recently about cutting motor shafts. If I recall, it advised some grease around the top of the motor where the shaft goes in, and cutting with a slitting disc, but NOT allowing it to get too hot. Then wipe away the grease which should have kept any debris from the shaft and the abrasive disc, out of the motor. Oh...and wear eye protection. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 18, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 18, 2015 Agree absolutely with the above comments, as usual all normal safety precautions should be taken using tools...............there, that's my "get out" clause Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 There was a thread recently about cutting motor shafts. If I recall, it advised some grease around the top of the motor where the shaft goes in, and cutting with a slitting disc, but NOT allowing it to get too hot. Then wipe away the grease which should have kept any debris from the shaft and the abrasive disc, out of the motor. Oh...and wear eye protection. Agree absolutely with the above comments, as usual all normal safety precautions should be taken using tools...............there, that's my "get out" clause JeffP & David, Thank you. I have a Dremel perhaps I may have to use that in short bursts. I must admit though, I wouldn't have thought to protect the top of the motor so that's useful. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Following an afternoons faffing about trying to get the frame underside details added I don't seem to have done very much. Primarily because there is one bit that I have done three times and still discarded it because I'm not happy with it: You can see the pipework that is missing from the underframe: I decided to call it a day and have another go tomorrow. I need to make the drain lines ends look more like taps with a control lever, that is once I have found some brass tubing and sheet that is the right thickness. I also need to make two frames that stop the screw link couplings from banging into the bogie fronts..... Brian, if you read this perhaps you might be able to tell me the thickness of the brass you used on your class 20?? Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 19, 2015 Lee, you can use grease or my preferred option is blu-tak and wrap the rest of the motor in masking tape (just in case, or rather not to get filings in the case ), after a successful parting use a blower/airbrush to clean it all off and to clean up the end an oil stone or stone in the mini drill will take the sharp edge off. The build is looking great there...........almost as fast as Brian.......well OK, no where near as fast, but then again who is? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 Hi David, Thanks for the words of wisdom, it's funny you mention Blu Tack though as that's what I was going to use. I managed to get some slitting discs today so perhaps I'll have a go soon. I don't think it is possible to match Brians rate of model building and I'm pleased to hear that you're enjoying the thread, I hope others get something out of it too... perhaps how NOT to build the JLTRT kits Today didn't go as planned (it never does) as I managed to get some 0.8mm brass rod today so I decided to make pick-ups from the brass top-hats. Not too difficult really, just a bit of cutting, bending and soldering really. But I think it is definitely a better approach than I used for the class 40. Here's what I have done: Two brass top-hats have been drilled with 0.8mm drill bit and brass rod inserted and soldered to create a 'tab' that the power cables can be soldered to. I can't take any credit for this idea, I'm sure you can guess who did this first You will probably look at the photo and think "wow that bogie side frame is very banana shaped".... well actually it was a little curved but not as bad as the photo portrays. So to correct this I just popped the side frames into a bowl of hot water, after a few minutes I removed them and held them straight whilst putting them under the cold water tap. Straight as a die!!!! Having assembled the bogies back together I did notice that the wheels were a little tighter which I think may have been due to the top-hats not seating perfectly as they did before. This was easily solved by a bit of filing and now they run very smoothly and free. With each bogie side sat on a piece of metal I tested for continuity and I can report (even with blackened tyres) there is no problem with electrical pick up at all. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Well after an unsuccessful evening yesterday trying to get the buffer rods into the cylinders.... I gave up I guess I must have spent about 3 hours fettling the insides of the cylinders so that they were free from obstructions. It seems that a 2mm drill bit will go into the cylinder and will go a good way down into it too. However when you then put the shank in there with the spring (cut in half) the assembly will not fit at all. I think the only thing left is to buy a 2.1mm drill bit (as that is the diameter of the buffer shank nearest to the buffer head) and drill them out, so I shall have to return to those later. On a more up-beat subject, the motor shaft has been cut and will now fit with the body on and not cause an obstruction to the fan housing: Also, you will notice that I managed to fit the steps to the underframe so that's one less job to do. I think the rest of the evening will be spent painting buffer beam detailing parts thinking about how to solve this pesky problem of making the buffer assemblies. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 A little more done today, but it's not a great leap forward, mainly detail parts along with some painting of the buffer beam pipes etc. I spent a little time making up one of the screw link couplings. However, this was merely just for a bit of practice as I have some CPL couplings on order which I had seen on several other modern era 7mm locos and they do look very good indeed. But anyway, here with my recent attempt and it took me a lot less time than last time I assembled one: Having noticed that the cab door handles are moulded 'lumps' I've decided I will chop these off at some point as there should be enough handles on the cast sprue for the nose door handles to add this extra detail. I can't think why JLTRT have decided to mould the cab door handles at all I also added the roof details to the cab along with some of the handles that sit halfway along the loco nose: I've just about finished painting the detail parts for the loco too, a job which I have done when I only have a little time available. I think I have the correct colours for the steam heat and vac pipes: Well there you go another bit of work done, hopefully I can get the underside frame details finished tomorrow as I've been researching the last lot of pipe work and I have a better idea of how it should go now. I'm on the look out for bogie underside AWS receivers and also some windscreen wipers for the small cab windows. If anyone knows where these are available please feel free to drop me a PM or post here. Thank you in advance. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2015 Oh dear.......something you want to tell us about Lee? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2015 Tell you what though..........should scare the "Troublesome Trucks"..........let along Annie and Clarabell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 I'm only following the JLTRT instructions!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2015 I'm only following the JLTRT instructions!!! Must be all Whisky up there in Irvine............ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 He's got Screw link coupler droop. lol The loco is looking great Lee it's really coming together now. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Well I'm pleased to see people having a giggle at my expense A few more bits done today, not much really but I guess each step is a step closer to completion. I have to say I am enjoying building the loco the kit itself is very good and full credit to JLTRT to be honest. Detail parts that I've added today are really to the loco under frame areas: These items are drain taps for (I'm guessing) the loco air system. I just need to add a shut-off handle now but I don't have any brass section small enough so I will order at the same time as I get the drill bits for the buffer cylinder work. The other underframe detailing I have done today is the pipework that sits immediately beneath the sole bar: The rest of the evening is going to be spent cutting headcode discs from sprues and filing components down. I do seem to spend a lot of time doing that which slows the job down no end. But hey, it's not like I'm in a rush Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Part of the fun. Do look out for moulding lines on parts, they show up in pics of some models and detract. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi JeffP, Yes I agree but just occasionally it gets a little tedious I do try to remove all the moulding lines but the great thing about photographing afterwards is that I notice those I missed and then I can go back with a little bit of wet and dry. I surprised myself tonight by getting a little further... I hadn't anticipated that at all as I thought it would be an evening of cut and file/ smooth components. Anyway here's a few pics of where I've now managed to get to with the build: I've just noticed that the lower closed headcode disc needs a little more filing to remove signs of the sprue and also needs squaring up when fitted.... a job for another day I then managed to get one buffer beam done with steam heat pipe and all. I was quite pleased as I initially thought I would struggle to get all those pipes onto the buffer beam. The headcode discs have been hand painted and I'm not sure I'm that impressed by my non-handy work. The Railmatch yellow obviously needs quite a few coats over the dark etch primer as it appears green with only one coat. The discs have just been push fitted but the separate disc catches are fixed in position... oh boy are they difficult to control when cutting from the sprue, filing and fitting. That's it for today. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 (Quote) The discs have just been push fitted but the separate disc catches are fixed in position... oh boy are they difficult to control when cutting from the sprue, filing and fitting. That's it for today. Cheers Lee I find some smooth jawed pliers are good for this job, and if you need more grip I wrap a couple of sticking plasters around the jaws courtesy of the first aid box. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 I find some smooth jawed pliers are good for this job, and if you need more grip I wrap a couple of sticking plasters around the jaws courtesy of the first aid box. Martyn. Hi Martyn, Thank you for that little gem of info. I ended up using some smooth jawed pliers... but it was a learning process after having at least one of the disc retainers ping off and land goodness knows where. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Looking good Lee. A good set of posts for those building the 20. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Hi Lee, some nice work going on here. Did you get the big 40 painted? I fancied a JLTRT something build project but time is just not available these days, I currently have 2 Heljan 60's, a 26, and a 40 as rainy day projects! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Looking good Lee. A good set of posts for those building the 20. Hey hello TTG, It's nice to see you stopping by. Thank you for the comments and I hope to be able to catch up with you this year at one of the O gauge shows... perhaps even with OzzyO too!!! Hi Lee, some nice work going on here. Did you get the big 40 painted? I fancied a JLTRT something build project but time is just not available these days, I currently have 2 Heljan 60's, a 26, and a 40 as rainy day projects! Hi Lee, Thank you. I never quite finished the last 40, and stupidly I sold it too, but I have another one waiting to build so it will be 40118 and it WILL get finished this time. I do find that the biggest stumbling block, certainly at the moment too with this class 20 build, is the spraying of the loco and parts. I only have a small portable spray booth and I am not sure that it will fit the 20 in let alone a 40. I guess you have a purpose built spray booth for all your work??? I can certainly recommend these JLTRT kits. They go together quite well and if someone of my very limited modelling ability can build them then anyone can. Additionally there are plenty of people popping in and out of my thread that can no doubt push me in the right direction and people always seem happy to give advice, which is always welcome. This mornings work has seen the No 1 buffer beam detailed (minus screw-link coupling): (Oooops.. just noticed that the yellow and white air lines are the wrong way around ) Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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