RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 28, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2011 I'm almost tempted to get another class 40 and build that over the winter months so that I have two BR Blue locos to spray when the weather improves. Cheers Lee JLTRT loco kits on special offer at the moment ......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hi All, Sorry for the lack of updates but there has (sadly) been nothing to report. The loco is all masked and ready for spraying but everytime I'm home the weather is poor and too windy. I'm starting to think that it will now be spring or summer before there are any decent spraying days I'm almost tempted to get another class 40 and build that over the winter months so that I have two BR Blue locos to spray when the weather improves. Cheers Lee go for it Lee, then you could try out one of the ABC motor bogies we saw at Halifax. One of my mates is just powering one bogie but applying a decent amount of weight around and over the power bogie. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 TimC - you tease!!! OzzyO - Those ABC gears of TwoToneGreens looked superb but having installed the two Slaters motor/ gearbox combinations the running has been just excellent, I'm really pleased with that so I don't think I'd change it TBH.... and of course there's the price difference too. I've been busy doing some research... if anyone has pics of 40's 009, 044, 126 or 177 please could you PM me. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 31, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2011 TimC - you tease!!! OzzyO - Those ABC gears of TwoToneGreens looked superb but having installed the two Slaters motor/ gearbox combinations the running has been just excellent, I'm really pleased with that so I don't think I'd change it TBH.... and of course there's the price difference too. I've been busy doing some research... if anyone has pics of 40's 009, 044, 126 or 177 please could you PM me. Cheers Lee Hi Lee A good source of Class 40 pics http://www.flickr.com/groups/cfas/ and of course Brian Daniels class 40 photostream http://www.flickr.co...157626751074858 Talking of Brian, I think one of his JLTRT models is 40177. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Yes Tim I have bagged 40177! Think of another Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 31, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2011 Yes Tim I have bagged 40177! Think of another Lee Oh no, I didn't realise it was a race......I think Brian will win every time.....he's the SR71 of the model building world! I recieved my Slaters 30:1 gearbox and motor last week and I have to say it really is a lovely made gearbox and runs beautifully, I am quite taken with them now. Although I still have to find a way to suspend the motor bogie/slaters gearbox combination on my EZB 108. The way it is orientated means the motor lays over the pivot point of the bogie, not a big deal but I will have to think of a neat solution....or a messy excuse for one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I would of thought that Brian was the C47 dependable can carry alot and looks good in any livery it's in Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted November 1, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2011 I would of thought that Brian was the C47 dependable can carry alot and looks good in any livery it's in Pete Pete, I was thinking more of Brians speed of construction than his classic good looks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 I know what you mean David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikeym Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Any updates? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted August 24, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 24, 2014 Any updates? Yes, Brians eaten several more pies.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Yes I was wondering what had happened to this thread. The completed model must be due an "F" exam by now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Well after a rather long erm....interlude, I shall hopefully be resurrecting this thread and I intend to finish this loco off...... eventually Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 Well I finally had a delivery from JLTRT today: The class 20 will be built first, I guess trying to get back some practice before I have another go at 40118! So I started working out what goes where: I shall make a start on the loco tomorrow so more pictures to follow as it gets built. If you have any top-tips as I go along please feel free to contribute. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Nice Warp in the frames should be fun to remove without losing material. Plenty of hot water, elastic bands, blocks of wood and some luck and you may get it out. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Hi Pete, I don't think I shall need to do any of that as once the loco body is fitted to the frame by the screws it will all work out just fine... well that's what I'm hoping. A dry test fit certainly points to that anyway. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 A busy day, although an enjoyable one, as I've managed quite a bit. Initially I thought I would be lucky to get one of the bogies motorised and a few detail items added. Just like this... I still need to add the delrin chain but I shall do that once the bogies are complete and have had a coat of etch primer and black paint. Anyway, it seemed that things were working out quite nicely and by the close of play I had actually managed to get both bogies motorised with most of the detail parts added: Before I finally finished for the day I started to look at the buffer assembly. The buffers themselves are delivered as a machined head and shaft (item 1) which has a collar (item 2), a spring (item 3), a nut (item 4) and then there is the cast buffer sleeve (item 5) that fits everything to the buffer beam. I was wondering if anyone could confirm that the collar (item 2) is actually not needed and all I have to do is drill out the cast buffer sleeve to accept the buffer shaft and spring?? Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Those collars are to go on the buffers in their 45 kits. You might have to shorten the springs later to get a good travel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Hi Brian, Thank you for the information I shall make a note about the springs. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Hi Lee, Just been catching up on your thread, nice work on the class 20 so far. Will be following with interest. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Hi Peter,Thanks for stopping by Not much to show for today as it's a 'cleaning items ready for some etch primer day'. I would have managed to get the etch primer sprayed on all the detail parts if it hadn't been horizontal rain all day... there is no way am I going outside in the rain to clean thro my airbrush every 10 minutes or so, it can wait until tomorrow. However, I did manage to blacken the wheel sets. These have come out a little patchy, I guess that's due to any grease that was left on them before blackening. I do remember OzzyO telling me the best de-greasing agent to use, but I can't remember what it was (was it Cillit Bang???..... other products are available )Anyway, here we are:I need to refine the way I do this to get a better result, I guess when it comes to blackening things like screw-link couplings it makes for a much better finish. The wheels aren't too critical as they will be weathered anyway... and perhaps blackening the tyres wasn't such a good idea either but hey ho.CheersLee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Blackening the tyres is a good idea, trust me. Did you buff them up after drying? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Is the blackened finish conductive? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Blackening the tyres is a good idea, trust me. Did you buff them up after drying? Hi JeffP, Yes I buffed the wheels and tyres up afterwards Is the blackened finish conductive? Hi Fastdax, It certainly is... well a multi-meter across them testing continuity shows they are ok Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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