Pressfix transfers

[C&WR]

A thread resurrection! I have come across in my modelling supplies Sheet 11 of PC Models Pressfix GWR wagon & van insignia.

 

The decals are lovely. Only thing is they must be 30 years old. Begs two questions:

 

1. Are they the same kind of Pressfix?

 

2. Is there any way to make them stick again as all the glue seems to have worn off?

 

Having really enjoyed building a Fruit D for my BR Blue parcels train I bought another kit to do for my GW operations. It would be really nice to use these transfers...

[TheWeatheringMan]

Hi,

Pressfix transfers that have dried out adhesive can normally be used as Methfix type.

Another although messy method is to spray the original adhesive side of the dried out Pressfix with artists spray mounting adhesive and then use them as normal Pressfix - the downside of this is the need to clean even more surplus glue off the model after application. It works but adds the extra work.

 

To the poster who said that in Canada Methylated Spirit was unavailable.

See if you can buy 'Denatured Alcohol' - this is interchangeable with 'meths' for pretty well any use. Small quantities can normally be bought through pharmacies (drug stores) - although in the UK anything other than small quantities requires a purchase authorisation issued by HM Revenue and Customs to be held and shown to the supplier prior to purchase - something of a shame as Den. Alc. is an excellent RTR plastic safe finish remover and is cheaper than the more commonly used IPA, which is not subject to the purchase authorisation requirement.

 

Do not use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol) as this will often attack the print of the transfer or underlying paint - IPA has very different properties and abilities to  Methylated Spirits  and Denatured Alcohol.

 

Removing excess glue with White Spirit also needs to be done very carefully as this too can rapidly attack the transfer print and/or the paint surface.

Acetone also has the same risks so please work carefully.

Hope the above might prove of some help or interest.

 

Regards

[C&WR]

Thanks, TWM, will look up how to do Methfix.  I posted earlier because I was on my phone with limited connectivity and didn't think I would get to my computer tonight, but have managed after all.

 

I was wondering about soaking the paper with Microset then finishing with Microsol before varnishing, but it seemed to be the adhesion I was worried about. I have now found another post on here from Metr0Land suggesting this might work, so have two options.

 

The power of RMWeb, thank you! 

[70021 Morning Star]

Hi CW&R,

You could try gum arabic (if I've got the name right). That's the adhesive you find on old fashioned brown paper parcel tape. Artists' supplier sell it. The glue is very strong. Just wet it, then apply to your transfer with a paintbrush. It won't hold on plastic or high gloss, so you'll need a matt underpaint, but will adhere so long as the surface is slightly porous. (On plastic or gloss, the item often drops off after the glue dries.) Anyway, it's good glue and easy to clean any overspill. It'll also permit you to apply as a 'waterslide', so positioning is easy. Do remember to seal the finished article with a coat of varnish.

 

By the way, you can make your own water-slide transfers using an inkjet printer. You need to buy special paper and a can of acrylic varnish. Try Googling "how to make waterslide decals". The really nice thing is that you decide what varnish to use; matt, gloss, satin.

 

Rick 

[70021 Morning Star]

Spent the afternoon using HMRS 'Pressfix' transfers to renumber a locomotive.

 

...HELP NEEDED: does anyone know if 'post pressfix therapy' is available on the NHS ?!!

 

 

The finished article looked good. Well, it did, until I took a closer look. I think that these transfers have two layers of tissue paper. The one you remove, and another that the ink is printed on. It appears it's not 'glue' that's causing all that gunk around the lettering, but the tissue paper that the darned things are printed on.

 

My conclusion is that you've got to cut around the edge of each individual letter, otherwise the finished effect is as though you've very crudely pasted down cut-out letters. Also, that tissue paper has a habit of breaking up, leaving bits of the stuff to show up under the overcoat of varnish. It looks like I've rolled the model in fluff and dust before I applied the varnish. (So, my next step is that I'm going to have to remove a whole afternoon's work, and then repaint the cab doors! Then I'll start the renumbering, again, this time using Fox's quality transfers.)

 

CONCLUSION: if there was an award for 'most rubbish modelling product', pressfix transfers would be on my shortlist.

 

Rick

[DaveF]

Rick,

 

I've been using Pressfix transfers for both 4mm and 7mm scale for many years, since they were first produced and have never had the problem you describe when I've finished the model with the final varnish coat.   As I'm sure you do I first remove the transfer from the thick paper backing sheet, then lay it in place on the model and press it gently down.  Then cover it with water  and  once I have the number/letter/lining stuck down then I add a little more water with a paint brush to remove any excess adhesive from the transfer edge,    then I let it dry.   If I don't do this then I can see stray bits at the edges.

 

Having just looked at some of my models I cannot see the effect you describe after doing the above.   I agree there is a slight thickness to the transfer, but there are often several layers of ink (I use mainly pre grouping ones which are often complex multicolours) which gives some thickness to the transfer. 

 

I should add that I have not used many of the HMRS printed sheets,  I'm still using up the original PC sheets, but the one sheet of theirs I have used has not shown any problem.

 

I do agree that they are not the easiest of Transfers to use.

 

David

[70021 Morning Star]

Yup, that's exactly what I did, David,

In fact, I spent hours and hours trying different techniques, just in case there was some trick to using the things.  

 

My conclusion is that they're ok for logos/badges, but less than useless for making a truly neat job of highly-visible areas of lettering. As you say, David, they're a bit on the 'thick' side. That's why I say they look like I've applied paper cut-outs. Awful.

 

I've masses of experience of every imaginable kind of lettering transfer and graphics tools, but I've never come across anything quite so bad.

 

Rick

[C&WR]

Thanks everyone for some helpful tips.  I need to build the model now, but as term has finished while I still have to be in School at least my working days are much shorter...

[70021 Morning Star]

Ok, as I said above, I decided to give old fashioned water slide fix transfers a go. I got a ready made set of locomotive cab renumbering decals from a well known supplier, and a bottle of Humbrol 'decalfix'.
 
The transfers looked good, but did have quite a lot of backing varnish around the actual numbers, so I took the precaution of trimming them with a scalpel. As it turned out, use of 'decalfix' meant I really only needed to trim the worst of the excess, as we'll see in a moment.
 
Humbrol's youtube video gave the basics (

), but didn't explain everything. You soak the decal in decalfix to release it from the backing paper. You also apply some decalfix to the model, to aid you in positioning. CAUTION: if you're applying over acrylic paint, you should dilute the decalfix with water, otherwise it'll dissolve the paint. (They mention this in the video, but it's easily missed.)

 

Apply the decal by sliding off the backing with a paintbrush. This is important, as the decalfix reacts with the decal's backing varnish, turning it into a gel like material, which is easily torn. Gently, very gently, move the decal into your required position using the paintbrush. I found it best to push from the edges. Remember what I said, the decal backing turns to  gel, so pushing from anywhere but the edges can change the overall shape of the decal; in my case, this affected the alignment of the cab numbers.

 

Fortunately, correcting any distortions proved quite straightforward. Ensure you keep the decal well lubricated with decalfix, and you can use the brush to pull it back into shape.

 

Panic! Well, that's what I did, when the whole decal wrinkled up, just as I'd got it perfectly positioned. But, quick search of rmweb reassured me this is quite normal. Phew. I left the decal to dry for about an hour. The lettering was perfect, but still a lot of wrinkles in the backing varnish between the lettering. The video suggested applying more decalfix. CAUTION: although the decal was now 'stuck' to the model, applying more decalfix unfixed it, and I had to reposition. (In a way that's a good thing, as it suggests you can correct positioning errors at a later time, by simple applying more decalfix.) However, when you're applying more decalfix in an attempt to get the stuff to suck the decal flat - which it appears to do during the drying phase - it's probably best to only apply decalfix to one end of the decal at a time, as this'll avoid accidentally ungluing and moving the decal.

 

A couple of hours later, and the decal was looking pretty good. But, I thought, probably needed pressing down. I did this by 'rolling' a cotton bud along the length of the decal. This worked well, and didn't transfer any cotton wool fluff to the decal.

 

Humbrol state that decal fix should be left to dry 'overnight'. In my book, that means 12 hours. Don't be tempted to do anything before that time, and you'll be well rewarded. The results are incredibly good. The decalfix doesn't just draw the decal's backing varnish onto the model, it actually appears to make it thinner, irons out all of the wrinkles, and makes the lettering really stand out, as though it were printed or painted onto the model. Indeed, the backing varnish is all but invisible. Once you apply varnish over the top, only the (now raised) lettering will be apparent.

 

I am delighted with the results, and would recommend the use of water slide fix decals in combination with decalfix, over use of pressfix, wherever possible.

 

One last thing. 'Methfix'. I did buy some 'methfix' decals, and they do look as though they would be better than the pressfix. However, I didn't use them here, as the instructions warn that they're not suitable for use over acrylic paint. Something about the methylated spirit reacting with the acrylic. Of course, you also have to be careful with using decalfix on acrylic paint, but it worked ok on 70021 Morning Star.

 

I'll [edit] add a photograph to this posting later.

 

Hope this is of interest, but I'm still hoping someone has the answer to getting good results from HMRS pressfix transfers, as they're the only source for a lot of excellent decals.
 

Rick

 

****Not sure how I embedded a video. I only pasted a link. Wow! Is that permitted on this forum? Moderator please advise. Thanks.****

 

[70021 Morning Star]

If anyone has use for a set of HMRS No.14P pressfix transfers - described as "HMRS 14P OO Scale BR Steam Loco Coach & Van" - then I have two sets looking for a home.

 

They're part-used, just some of the smaller numbers relating to 70021 and are a bit grubby (so some parts will need cleaning, with meths, if I recall), but most of the sheets are unused. They're no use sitting on my workbench, and you've probably read my opinion of pressfix. I wouldn't give them to my worst enemy. So, if you'd like one of these sheets, pm me and I'll drop you one in the post.

 

There's only two, one left and it's first come first served.

 

Rick

[Flood]

For anyone who still has problems with Press-fix transfers:

 

 

1. Peel off the top sheet that protects the glue on the transfer surface. All the transfers will be seen to be reversed on the sheet.

 

2. Score around the number, lettering, crest with a sharp knife. Do not cut all the way through. You don't have to be exact, a slightly oversize square will do. Try not to touch the glue on any of the transfers on the sheet.

 

3. Use the sharp knife to flick up one corner of the carrier film that is underneath the transfer.

 

4. Use tweezers to pick up the transfer by the carrier film. When not using the transfer sheet always replace the protective sheet so the transfers do not get dust on them.

 

5. Reverse the transfer so the sticky side is to the model and the carrier film is now on the top.

 

6. Gently move the transfer (with carrier film) into position. If you need to see through the carrier film a bit then just moisten your finger tip and dab the transfer to make the carrier film less opaque. Do not use too much water, it will start to set the glue and destroy the carrier film. So long as the carrier film is on the transfer you can always peel off the transfer from the model and start again to position.

 

7. When happy with the position press hard on the transfer. Then using a water soaked brush wash away at the carrier film. After about 10-20 seconds, depending on the size of the transfer, the carrier film will slide away. Use more water to remove excess glue if required.

 

8. This will leave only the transfer and no other film on the item.

 

9. Take the protective top sheet, lay it over the transfer and using a finger nail gently scrape the top sheet where the transfer is to ensure the transfer is tight to the model.

 

10. Varnish the model/transfer when all transfers applied.

 

 

I have used Press-fix transfers for the last 25 years using this method and, apart from when glue has gone off, I have never had any problems.

 

Always read all of the instructions included with the sheets - don't think they are like waterslide because they are not. Finally, I do give them and always recommend them to my best friends.

[jwealleans]

What he said. Is there another way to try to apply them?

[70021 Morning Star]

[ UPDATED 19:30 13/01/2015 ]

 

Thanks, Flood,

Kind of you to respond, but that's exactly how I used them, and they don't work for me. And, yes, I did follow all the instructions; indeed, a very large part of my job is writing instructions for highly complex tasks, so I'm pretty good at following instructions. I just can't get them to give good results. It'd be great if I could, as HMRS produce some really useful images. Maybe someone could produce a youtube video?

 

Anyway, my offer was to anyone who was interested in giving them a try. First two persons to pm me with a request got one sheet for free.

 

BOTH SETS NOW SPOKEN FOR. OFFER ENDED

 

Just one last thing, "I wouldn't give them to my worst enemy", followed by asking if I could give them to you, is called a joke ;-)

 

 

Have a great 2015

 

Rick

[EHertsGER]

I normally just use a finger nail, that's assuming you've not varnished them yet.

The transfers or the fingernails?

[micklner]

[ UPDATED 19:30 13/01/2015 ]

 

Thanks, Flood,

Kind of you to respond, but that's exactly how I used them, and they don't work for me. And, yes, I did follow all the instructions; indeed, a very large part of my job is writing instructions for highly complex tasks, so I'm pretty good at following instructions. I just can't get them to give good results. It'd be great if I could, as HMRS produce some really useful images. Maybe someone could produce a youtube video?

 

Anyway, my offer was to anyone who was interested in giving them a try. First two persons to pm me with a request got one sheet for free.

 

BOTH SETS NOW SPOKEN FOR. OFFER ENDED

 

Just one last thing, "I wouldn't give them to my worst enemy", followed by asking if I could give them to you, is called a joke ;-)

 

 

Have a great 2015

 

Rick

Sounds more like Methfix to me?? They have a tissue covering which must be soaked with a meths/water mix until the tissues releases from the transfer. I don't like them take ages to release and very difficult to line up as well.

 

 

 

Pressfix must have the thick backing paper sheet removed leaving the decals on the thin tissue sheet only. Then place the decal onto the model , line them up using a steel rule. Rub lightly on top of decal with finger, then a drop of water onto the tissue which releases in seconds job done.

[cobach47]

get yourself a sheet of clear decal film press the transfer onto the sheet and after removing the tissue carefully wipe the transfer to remove excess glue then coat with micro liquid decal film or johnsons kleer then cut close to the outline and apply as a normal waterslide decal i have used this method many times

[corneliuslundie]

I am really puzzled by your experience. I have been using both Pressfix and Methfix for years, both PC and more recently HMRS. I have never had the problems you describe. Very old transfers do lose their tack and have to be used as Methfix, and some of mine are very old. But in the last year I have lettered several dozen wagons with no problems.

 

.On the other hand I hate waterslide and some other transfers which always seem very brittle and prone to breaking up, and leave a surrounding film which Pressfix don't. In particular, I have found Powsides transfers very hard to use, which is a pity as they are potentially an easy way of lettering PO wagons. I have never tried Fox transfers as they don't do many sheets which would be useful to me.

 

Note that I am involved with the HMRS so you may regard me as biased, but I bought most of my transfers long, long ago and most are PC, and still going strong with a little TLC.

 

Jonathan David

[70021 Morning Star]

Excellent results, Cobach47,

Nice to see someone having success with pressfix. I never doubted that I was doing something wrong - otherwise, if they got my dreadful results, no one would use them - so thanks for telling us (me) how to do it.

 

Great post!,

Rick

[hobbyhorse]

One of the first things I do with pressfix transfers is to remove the glue using a rubber, this can only be done with a "Plastic" type eraser not the rubber type, gently rubbing away the glue layer. I've used this method for over 30 years without any problems. These can be obtained from any good graphics shop. The transfers can then be used as water slide type without any problems.

 

Simon

[ozzyo]

One of the first things I do with pressfix transfers is to remove the glue using a rubber, this can only be done with a "Plastic" type eraser not the rubber type, gently rubbing away the glue layer. I've used this method for over 30 years without any problems. These can be obtained from any good graphics shop. The transfers can then be used as water slide type without any problems.

 

Simon

 

If the glue has been removed what sticks them down?

 

OzzyO.

[hobbyhorse]

Once the transfer are in position and dry, I dilute some gloss varnish 50-50 thinners and carefully apply over the transfer just going over the edge on both sides onto the paintwork. The trick is not to apply to much varnish otherwise you'll get a line both sides of the transfer. To finish with the model has a light varnish which blends the whole lot in making the transfer fixing invisible.

In a former life when I did a lot of commission paintwork this method saved a lot of time, and I regularly see some of the models which I did some 30 years ago that still look good today.

 

Simon

[micklner]

Sorry I cannot see how the decal will stay in position without any glue once dry, prior to varnishing ?

[hobbyhorse]

The diluted varnish soaks under the transfers, without the thinners it won't work.

 

Simon

[Jamiel]

Really helpful thread, thanks to everyone who has either asked questions or contributed answers.

Also glad TheWeatheringMan clarified the use of IPA, my personal experience was that too much IPA caused transfers to be badly aligned, but then that was India Pale Ale and had been administered orally prior to modelling, quite a different type of alcohol.

Jamie

[C&WR]

A quick update as this popped up to the top of my content list.  I took the plunge and it seems there was sufficient gum left on my 30-something year-old sheet of PC Pressfix transfers.  Together with Microsol/Microset and then varnish over the top I had these results:

 

 

 

 

I do wonder if the Parkside kit had some slightly odd dimensions, or if the decals were a little overscale as there was only space for "FRUIT" rather than "FRUIT.D" on the left-hand end, and also I believe "PASSENGER" should be under the "FRUIT" lettering.

 

Many thanks to RMWebbers for advice.  Any errors entirely mine!