S.A.C Martin Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 That's rather convincing. I had to check I was looking at a Deltic front end in your text, mind! Would they have had room in the nose end to have the corridor? I seem to remember a line drawing somewhere indicating that this was the original train of thought but I cannot for the life of me remember where I've seen it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I've dug out my own DP2 for a look and in hindsight I still think it's worth a bash completing (along with 10203!). I have a class 50 Shawplan roof fan and also the bodyside step etches to fit. One of the pics shows a problem that's alwats riled me though, the ride height is too high! Is this solvable with the standard Bachmann wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 On cue Sean. My recent conversion dropped the bogie ride height quite dramtically. Half way down this blog entry you can see what I did to the top of the bogie tower to achieve this... standard Bachmann chassis - should work for DP2 as well as 37s. HTH Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Thanks Jon, that Mod is a must I would say. I think I'm going to cancel my Heljan order and have another fiddle with the current one. Sean, does all the cab glazing fit out of the Bachmann body? If it does I must go on the rob for a spare shell! I'm going to add seperate handrails etc, the thing I'm dreading is painting the damn thing....the warning panel is a nightmare! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Cheers Sean, I just bought a D9014 shell before I saw your response! Sure it will come in handy for other stuff like lighting bars though. I'm looking to finish it in the original plain green but i'll drop you a line if a bottle out of painting the finished body! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I have my body shell, good to see that Bachmann don't glue the tail light bars or headcode panels in Glazing doesn't look too heavily glued either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Having read this, I dug out my own Silver Fox DP2 yesterday and tried it on a Bachmann Deltic chassis. ( I think there are probably quite a lot of us out there!). It rocked a bit and then I realised there was some moulding residue on the inside of the roof. Once removed with a square scalpel the body dropped perfectly into place, so that the moulded buffers are exactly in line with those on another Bachmann Deltic. I appreciate that this is probably a bit high, and I haven't measured the mid buffer height above the rail which should be 14mm, but it is at least consistent, so that applying Jon's mod to both should still bring both to the same level. Like you, Bluex5, I have a Silver Fox 10203, picked up recently on Ebay, and some of their other products. Some while ago, long before the Heljan model was a twinkle in anyone's eye, I did a Falcon with some of the L&J grilles and twin motor bogies, which gave me great satisfaction. The Silver Fox mouldings seem to me to be excellent, and with a bit of detailing such as etched grilles and proper handrails can be turned into a very decent model. And at least we'll have actually made something, rather than wave a piece of plastic at a retailer and open a box. Threads such as this can only inspire people to take up the cause! John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I have just picked up my hybrid ProtoDeltic again. Oh my God, I'm now convinced the nose is shorter on height than the Bachmann shell. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Ooh er HT. Which ones correct then? Or if your luck is owt like mine, which ones MORE correct then? Bachmann shell has slightly taller nose and looks more correct. But then look at just how much "V" you have to add to the windscreens - Brian Hanson's corrected Kitmaster (left), standard Kitmaster moulding (centre), Bachmann (right): Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Sean, that is magnificent work. I'm rather taken with that "body profile gauge" device - a must for any Deltic fan I suspect! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I shall be watching this with great interest. Could be the ultimate DP2 we're about to see here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Oh heck HT. There's a bit of work to do there then..... Yes, and the windscreen "V" is also curved.....which is something I've only just noticed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 This is the profile I intend to acheive. Introducing D9002 and my "patented" body profile gauge. Go on then... D9002... in that livery... ahem... nah, that's Nimbus 55020. You thought I'd not notice didn't you 8) All looking good though Sean... Heljan are hopefully watching and learning. J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Hmmmn. Big companies learning from the small guys. There's a whole new thread there but I'll let someone else start that one. I'll be too busy with the 1200 grade wet and dry..... ;-) Cheers. Sean. I suspect that even in the big companies, especailly the ones we're interfacing with, the development teams are not all that big... or not as big as they probably could be... and fiding opportunities to learn from other sources once their providence is shown would be beneficial. Just look where Dapol's got with the 52. Good luck with the project ... and enjoy the 1200.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Well, I'll say it out in open forum..... Rather you than me..... I'm really not looking forward to replicating the curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I've just had another look at your last photo Horsetan. It looks like Brian has built the windscreen frame outwards after shortening the headlamp cowling. I'm assuming he's used the Dapol plastic after cutting it and filling the resulting space? I remember him telling me that the entire headlamp cowling was sawn out and replaced by a section of the cap from a Bic biro pen. Apparently this had the right flowing lines. The top and front of the bonnet was filled to match the rest of the bonnet line - I've got a new tube of Squadron Green Putty for this job. The windscreen frame is built outwards to form the "V", but Brian made his own replacement frames from plasticard. Not sure what the frame thickness is - it looks like he laminated a few layers together. I note that he made the bottom edges straight rather than curved. This is how it looks from the inside: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/gallery/album_1646/gallery_6879_1646_3082689.jpg Naturally the windscreen "V" means that the roof ends also have to end in a matching "V". All very involved, but a convincing job. "It's not necessarily the result, but the journey." How will you be approaching this mod? On a wing and a prayer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I like your outloom.... I don't remember buying that component. Where do I fit it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 .....I just had a thought though. When the Bachmann Deltic cab windows are removed, they would act as a sort of former to profile the new frames? I have a set that I covered in paint which would be just the job. If they're of any use, drop me a pm......... I had a similar idea, and then Brian gently pointed out that virtually nothing on the production Deltics was the same on the ProtoDeltic. Even the windscreens were different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Aint that always the way?..... Well it meant I couldn't use any of his Extreme Etchings range, so it did save some money. For now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic21 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Looking very good Sean! You have given me plenty of inspiration for my impending recovery and i'm sure the work will keep me busy!! Looking forward to seeing the next batch of photos. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Yes Sean, that's a goos step by step series of instructions.. and the results are looking very promising. Nice to see the weather is helping your efforts... it's hampering ours a little but not too much, we've plenty to do undercover during our little break near 21C113. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I think it was 80 thou, but could be mistaken. I think you might be. 80 thou is 2mm thick. 8 thou? The thinnest available which I know of is 5 thou, which Evergreen do. Paper is ~7 thou and I find that surprisingly useful. Nice job that, however thick those doors are. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Goos step..... Is that not a different hobby Jon? .... Are you putting his name on a list? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I secured the paper by flooding with Mek (or whatever). That was to plastikard; if that doesn't stick to the Bachy plastic, varnish is probably best. Are you using Archer transfers? They can fall off; a spot of Mek helps the backing film stick but I try to prime them as soon as able. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Consider using a liquid cyano for the paper. It will soak into it and make it set hard and waterproof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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