N15class Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 You asked what chain, try Slater's fine chain. Looked perfect on my wagon brake lever pins Thanks Jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Oil cans such as the one in your picture often have a reinforcing flange around the joint between the spout and the body, with possibly a strap between the top of the body and the middle of the spout. Hi Graham, Was the reinforcing flange on the spout or the body of the can? What I means is was it like a washer fitting on the end of the spout flat to the body or a tube going over the end of the spout where it attaches to the body? Now you need a long feeder and a short feeder... Sorry but I am not quite sure what you mean by long and short feeder? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Only a little done in the the last day due to the lurgy. For my tar tank wagon which is another that languished unfinished Graham kindly supplied me with various bits and pieces to improve the look of it. These consisted of springing units (Not attached yet but made up), etched V hangers and parts for the brake tumbler (I hope I have this description right). Seen here Not having these but having a pair of etched V hangers that were among a bag of etched bits and pieces that I got from Mike (same as the hand wheels) when he sold of his kit building stuff last year. I decided to use these as patterns to make a couple more but with a bit more 'meat' at the bottom where the hole goes through. I also made some tumblers from some 2mm thick brass strip drilling the holes and then cutting from the length. Which ultimately gave me this. I still need to trim the inner most pair (these are the etched ones) as they protrude above the sole bar at present. I found some buffers in the scrap box that suited and made the drawplate cover from a strip of brass sheet. In the scrap box I have also found 4 Slaters Brake shoes which will do nicely and my thinking is at present, working brakes but I will see how far I get with that one. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Sorry but I am not quite sure what you mean by long and short feeder? Robin, I shall look for some photos. Long and short feeders are oilers for motion work, about 2" in diameter with a brass button on the side - press the button and oil flow from the tip at one end. Long oil feeders are long.... short oil feeders are short. About 12" and about 24" from memory. Drviers would need both for sometimes moition oil cups could be in the most awkward of spaces (eg. think inside slidebars of a GWR Castle or a LMS Duchess etc.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 This is coming on nicely. Your work is to a very high standard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks Graham, both for the explanation and the offer to look for photo's Thank you too Peter, I am really enjoying it. Last night I got the V hangers fitted and the brakes made up but I won't solder them together until I have the wheels in place. Photos to follow... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Like the look of this wagon rob, really nice job, you must have quite a stock box of tasty wagon's by now? .......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks George. yes the stock box is growing and I am making some head way with getting them painted. I just need a marathon session with transfers etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 The last picture above is a good place to start on the next bit of the saga. Progress has slowed considerably as the lurgy has really taken hold. I have made a start on fitting the many rivets that seem to festoon such things. The rivets are more Scale Hardware. I have also mounted the V hangers and added a support braket each side for the discharge pipe. Along with a test fit of the brakes. Everything on the brakes still oves to working brakes are still a posibility. And lastly following the observations by Ruston, I re-visited the tank barrel. This is a before and after shot. This required removing about 4mm from the 'can' end and the brass cylinder to bring the end nearer to the line of rivets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 That looks much better, Rob. Those rivets - are they just heads or have you drilled lots of holes and stuck actual rivets through them? I had wondered how you were going to put all the rivet detail on the frames but now I know... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 This looks very nice, BUT sorry, you have correctly put independent brakes on this - with paired V hangers. Unfortunately these are NOT connected across the wagon - they are independent. This is true right the way through to the earlier BR mineral wagons, and virtually all Private Trader mineral wagons. This photograph - with the straight narrow V hangers of earlier wagons should show how the back of the V hanger has nothing more than the heavy gauge wire which prevents the brake push rods falling on the track if they break away from the V hangers. http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/smbp444/e19f18d55 Paul Bartlett 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 That looks much better, Rob. Those rivets - are they just heads or have you drilled lots of holes and stuck actual rivets through them? I had wondered how you were going to put all the rivet detail on the frames but now I know... Hi Dave, the rivets on the tank are pressed rivets - much easier where you can get away with it. Sadly on the milled channel its drill each hole and solder a rivet in but they are so prominent you cannot really miss them off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 This looks very nice, BUT sorry, you have correctly put independent brakes on this - with paired V hangers. Unfortunately these are NOT connected across the wagon - they are independent. This is true right the way through to the earlier BR mineral wagons, and virtually all Private Trader mineral wagons. This photograph - with the straight narrow V hangers of earlier wagons should show how the back of the V hanger has nothing more than the heavy gauge wire which prevents the brake push rods falling on the track if they break away from the V hangers. http://PaulBartlett....bp444/e19f18d55 Paul Bartlett That photo is brilliant Paul. Thanks for pointing the way. Luckily it's not too late/difficult to modify it - it's just slipped into position in the photo. I have also been struggling to see what the guard iron/wire looks like. I have seen glimpses of it on photos that i have been using for reference but none clear enough to be certain and you have answered that one too. Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 That photo is brilliant Paul. Thanks for pointing the way. Luckily it's not too late/difficult to modify it - it's just slipped into position in the photo. I have also been struggling to see what the guard iron/wire looks like. I have seen glimpses of it on photos that i have been using for reference but none clear enough to be certain and you have answered that one too. Thanks again. That's OK, there are many detail photographs on my site, try looking at the collections in here http://paulbartlett....ils?customize=2 if you are looking for something in particular. Paul Bartlett 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 It moves slowly forward although this up date is last night and tonight's effort combined. First I couldn't resist a shots of it all sat together - no brakes though. To get the filler on without making a mess all over the tank barrel I drilled a hole in the base and then reamed it out and soldered it in from the inside. I managed to get the saddles and the end stanchions in place. And I also rook some time out to make some brake levers - These were cut with a scrawker from 0.25mm brass and 2 laminations up to give them some strength. To cut down on the filing I tapered them from 3.5mm at one end down to 1.5 mm at the other, alternating them on the sheet as I went. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 It looks better all the time. Are you changing the brakes to either side rather than mortons? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks Peter. Yes I plan to now that Paul has pointed the way. Not sure what to do next to be honest but I am sure I will think of something. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Not sure what to do next to be honest but I am sure I will think of something. I just thought of a cup of tea.... two lumps sir? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 I just thought of a cup of tea.... two lumps sir? Thanks Graham, but the two lumps might finish me off. - Sugar free for this lad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 While feeling murky and pondering progress so far my eye was drawn to the clamp bar and while I was happy with it in terms of what it was. I wasn't happy with the size/chunkiness of it and it's height in relation to the lid. So I removed it from the lid and filed the supports down, buoyed by this I then set about slimming and streamlining the clamp bar itself. I am much happier with the result. This is a before and after shot. Pushing on I made a support for the lid - just visible in the photo above. I then put my thinking cap on to come up with a working clamping mechanism. This is the result of my efforts and to say that I am pleased with it would be a major understatement. What I did was take a piece of 1mm brass rod and threaded the end 14ba. I got a corresponding piece of brass tube and tapped the end of that 14ba. I bent the end of the rod round into a loop to create the eye that would attach it to the tank and allow it to swivel up and down. I then filed the eye piece and the rod for a short way up the thread to make it slimmer and more refined once I was happy with this I metal blackened it. I drilled a 0.7mm hole cross wise through the threaded tube then cut it from the length so that I had a collar with two holes in it. I soldered a piece of 0.7mm wire in each side - the blackening preventing it all going solid (quite topical this bit at the moment). I bent another strip in a U shape flattening the bottom of the U with fine pliers, crossed drilled it again 0.7mm and soldered the pin through the eye of the end and ultimately to the filler side. At this point it all move wonderfully but didn't really fit that well over the clevis in the clamp bar. Am moments pondering revealed that it would fit better if I turned it over so I un-soldered it cleaned it up and turned it over and now I am chuffed to bits!! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Had a disaster on Friday night, My soldering iron packed in. It isn't the first time so I had a spare element in stock but it took most of the evening to dig it out and fit it. The upside to this was that my good lady agreed to fund one of the ERSA units favoured by fellow members so that was duly ordered before she changed her mind . So back to the build, you may recall earlier in the thread that Graham kindly offered to supply me with some sprung W Irons to suit as he had for my tar tub. Despite accepting Graham's offer, what I didn't have to go with Graham's W Irons were any springs (I had axlebox that were spares supplied with a lot of the Slaters/Parkside kit's and Graham has subsequently pointed me at the Exactoscale lists where RCH axleboxes and springs in ABS can be had for £3). I contemplated making some up from bronze strip as I had for Severn but didn't have any in stock. Despite accepting the kind offer, ultimately I was waylaid while browsing the MMP site (I like to keep up with progress on the new wagon kits ). I have been musing about trying David's detailing kits for Slaters open wagons and thought that this may be the time so I ordered a couple of sets of working leaf springs, a set of underframe detailing. I would have ordered one of the internal detailing sets at the same time but all my Slaters kits are at the cottage so I didn't know exactly which to specify when ordering (I have a couple of opens but don't know offhand whether they are 4 plank 5 plank etc.). Order placed Wednesday at 8:20 and delivered Friday AM, You cannot expect better than that Having had experience of these before when making my glass wagon I decided to knock a couple of jigs together to help me get everything as it should be. First I made a jig to hold the W Irons while soldering the two layers together - a simple U shaped piece of wire on a base. A couple of Aluminium hair grips and all is done very easily. Next I wanted to make these. Into these. So this is a little jig that I made assist with it. It's a length of 1mm nickel bar with a short piece soldered on the side drilled to accept a piece of rod that will go through the eye of the etch and all soldered together You place the eye over the pin with the two half etched lines visible in the shot of the etch downwards and centred over the thick end of the jig. Get a pair of pliers and open the jaws to the two etched lines visible on the top of the etched part and press downwards. Then press out the rivets and fold up the tab with the eye hole in it and you are cooking with gas. And the end result is these. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 The tank wagon is slowly progressing with not much to see - fitting the may rivets on the sole bars. But what I have also been doing in the mean time is working towards finishing some of the part painted items. A couple of years ago at Halifax show I picked up some Woodhead transfers for LNER wagons. I tried them out on the implement wagon but they all started to crumble. I a quick search on the help thread brought up a thread on restoring old transfers and some Microscale liquid decal film was duly ordered - at £5 including postage it was much much cheaper than a new set of transfers from HMRS. Well I have to say it does what it says on the tin. You paint it on the back of the transfers let it dry for 15 mins (I left it overnight) and then use them like water slide instead of what ever they were originally. and hey presto - I cheated slightly here as I still have the running number to put on the other side. The bottle when you get it seems tiny but it goes a long, long way. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Despite being distracted by the 4mm L&Y Steam Railmotor, I managed to get the W Irons soldered on last last night. Not the best photo's I have ever taken but.... Now a bit of adjustment on the brakes is needed as after testing the arms are a little too long. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Amazing 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted February 19, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2012 I'm sure you'll be able to move the brake push rod on to the next hole just like on the real thing... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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