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Rob's 7mm Rolling Stock Workbench


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The fridge van is now in white with the black running gear sprayed I just need to mask up and paint the roof. Photo's to follow once that's been done.

 

 

Now for something a bit different. Some time ago I built one of Slaters 14 ton Tank Wagons (see page 1 of this thread) and while doing it I wasn't to happy with the 3 part tank cylinder so I rolled a new one from brass. At the same time I had read somewhere about someone using the ends of coke cans to create the domed ends.

 

So to cut a long story short I rolled another brass barrel and added some coke can ends with a view to scratch building a Class B tank - I had transfers for a Class B but built the Slaters kit as a Class A DOH!! At the time I ordered some U channel from Eileens but that was as far as it got.

 

Seeing Rustons' scratch build of a timber framed tank prompted me to get it out and make a start on it on Friday night.

 

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I have just made a start on the domed lid for the inspection hatch.

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Hi Peter/all,

 

Hopefully this will explain what I mean - you just file across the slight ridge where the red circle is marked on the photo and then once you have gone all the way around the bit that drops out becomes the tank end. The concave section with the writing on, becomes the inside of the tank end .

 

It's worth noting to be careful as the edges become quite sharp.

 

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post-6713-0-32244500-1327241964_thumb.jpg

 

 

The ends look to be sticking out too far, If I may say so? If you look at the prototype the dome starts immediately from where the barrel ends. That's how I've done my barrels but then I guess the diameter of this one is greater so if you lose that tapered part of the can the end will not be wide enough. Personally I'd have used the Slaters ends on the brass barrel but then who am I to criticise? The detail of our tank filler and lid and the fact that the whole chassis is made from brass makes my effort look like a steaming pile of excrement...

 

Edit: I've just looked at the first page and I see that you have already made one with the Slaters ends. Perhaps make the ends on this one from laminated plasticard?

Edited by Ruston
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Thanks for the observations Dave.

 

Way back when I made the barrel, I made it specifically for the coke can ends - the brass tube fits inside the end beyond where the rivet strip is. To use plasticard ends I would most likely need to trim the barrel back to the rivets. So I will see what sort of a job I make of the rest before deciding whether to re-do the ends.

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Looking good, who's valve handles? or how did you make them?

 

Thanks Peter,

Sorry I don't know the make of the Valve hand wheels. I bought a load of scrap box etched bits and pieces from steam loco builds from a fellow member when he stopped kit building and they were amongst them.

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Here are some I made earlier - when I first thought of scratch building one of these, I had a go at making up shackles for the cables. I also had a go at splicing some loops in some brass picture wire - that wasn't too successful :beee:

 

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The idea of the threaded end is to make a C shaped bracket that will solder to the back of the solebar with the square part passing through the top of the C and the threaded part passing through the bottom and allowing the cables to be tightened around the tank once all is in place - it may also make adding the transfers easier too. But its all theory until I get around to putting that bit together.

Edited by Rob Pulham
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Especially for Graham (Western Star) who asked my where they were. I had a go at the retaining chains for the discharge caps.

 

Initially I tried to make some fine chain by creating my own loops. I did this by gripping a piece of 0.8mm wire in a pin vice and then winding a piece of 0.3mm wire tightly around it spring fashion. I then cut each coil into an individual ring. I then linked about 8 together soldering each link to stop them dropping apart (they were coming apart as fast as i could attach them initially ).

 

Once I had about 8 links I realised that it wouldn't be fine enough. Then as I was digging out the eye bolts and shackles that I made earlier I came across a length of fine chain.

 

Armed with this my first attempt was to turn down the head of a brass pin so that it was small enough not to obscure the square head of the cap. This I achieved but the pin wouldn't go through a link of the chain - don't I wish that I had checked before filing the head down.

 

Next I had the bright idea of using a scale hardware rivet 0.8mm head 0.4mm shank - perfect, it fit through the chain and the head was small enough without any further attention.

 

I drilled a hole in the end of the square cap head and attempted to solder in the rivet and chain. I ended up with 3 or 4 links of the chain filled with solder. So pondering this I diverted my attention to the other end of the chain and started by threading one of the rings that I had made initially through the other end of the chain which I then attempted to solder to the tube adjacent to the cap. Not much doing with this either. I have a really fine pair of stainless steel tweezers which I was using to hold the ring and chain, I gave up after soldering them to the chain for the 4th time.

 

That's when the idea of a small bracket to hold the chain came to me. I looked in the scrap box and came up with a small rounded end etched strip with a hole in it. I chopped it off to the right size and managed to solder it to the pipe. So I slipped the ring on the end of the chain through the hole in the bracket and hey presto!

 

While it was successful the chain was very short but I had perfected the technique. I also realised that I had soldered it in the wrong orientation too. I had soldered it opposite the tap when in reality the tap hangs at an angle which left the bracket with eh chain protruding from the side at an odd angle when the whole piece was put right way up.

 

But buoyed by the success I did the other end using a different pair of tweezers and a wood chisel to cut through the chain without distorting half the links. Once I was happy with that end, I unsoldered the other end, cut a new piece of chain, soldered in a rivet and had it complete in no time.

 

Now I have bored you to death with the monologue here are the pictures - I think that it was worth the effort.

 

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I just need to glue the rivets into the holes in the ends of the caps now - I have had quite enough of trying to solder them in.

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very neat soldering

 

Thanks Paul, although you wouldn't have said that if you had seen some of my efforts in the 'journey' described above.

 

Metal certainly seems to be my medium - and I do envy people who can make such wonderful things from plastic.

 

This is something I knocked up a while ago when I was waiting for some glue to dry.

 

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Oil cans such as the one in your picture often have a reinforcing flange around the joint between the spout and the body, with possibly a strap between the top of the body and the middle of the spout.

 

Now you need a long feeder and a short feeder... and an oil can to warm by the firebox (cylinder lub oil is like treacle until warmed up).

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It looks a lot better than the usual twisted wire. whot is it about 40 links an inch?

 

You asked what chain, try Slater's fine chain. Looked perfect on my wagon brake lever pins.

Edited by jazz
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