Pete Harvey Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Ozzyo The carrier film on the Micro Mark transfers looks rather heavy and not as well defined compared to the Archers ones. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Hello Pete, all, I'm not that happy with this test, as you can see the Micro Mark transfers do seem to have a quit pronounced carrier film, so I'm going to spray up some brass or N/S to do a few more tests. For these tests I'll use some of the rivets so that I can get a better idea of how they will look on the TT. One thing that the first tests have shown is that I can over paint with cellulose paint. But if the carrier film is going to show up to much I may have to think it all through again. But on a more positive note. This is the first drawing from Pete for the plates for the TT. One or two small problems with it, both Steve and myself were not that happy with the wording about the locks and Pete had made the in & out plates all one handed. This I can understand as Pete DID NOT have all the information that he required. But a quick phone call (well quick for me only about 45mins. some of you will know what I mean), and this amended drawing turned up. So all this work for what are some small plates, for what is likely to be a one off project. Both Steve and myself thank him and the cost of £??.?? sounds very good. As you can see he has also incorporated the TT numberplate as well. We settled on the number 5, as Old Oak had 4 tables and it would seem likely that this table would be in it's number sequence, so number 5. Now watch all the photos of this plate turn up and the locking warning notice. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 All looking good. And a big thanks to Pete for his in put. I think the halfords paint might be the way foward. Way hey, lap top back Saturday. Proper browsing. Phones and tabs are good but test my patience some what. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Hello all, and now the end is near (with a bit of work on that I might make a song out of it), I'm going to wait until the plates arrive from Pete (with a bit of luck towards the back end of next week) before I start applying any paint. But first I wanted to get the wooden decks back down. This is one of the pieces of the deck after I'd removed it. So I removed all the glue (looks like it could have been Evostick only applied to the wood) some of it was still a bit on the sticky side but it all came off, with some scraping. The deck planks laid out in the four foot. This is what I use for mixing my epoxy in, small cake cases about 50p for about 100. One use and then throw away, I know that some people use a bit of card and reuse it. But I don't think that's a good idea as you can get old epoxy mixed in to the new. The epoxy applied to one side of the deck. Both sides of the wooden decks in place. I've had to use some spring clamps to hold the end boards down as some of them had warped a bit. I've still got some new boards to make for the ends and then clean off any epoxy that has got onto the top surface of the boards. Now onto the third test piece for the rivet transfers. I couldn't find my bit of brass that I would normally use, so this is what I used. And after applying some WHITE etch primer. This was photographed in my spray booth that has some fluorescent lights in it, so that's what has given the yellow colour cast to this piece. The plan is to use some of the rivets on two panels about the same size as the lap plates on the TT to, A] give me some idea of the sizes and spacing, and B] to see which ones will look the best. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 OzzyO This link was in another thread HERE . It is a N gauge layout. Scroll down 16 picture and you will see what a turntable is call in Argentina. I feel it ought to be used world wide sounds so much better. The layout is worth a look anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Hi Ozzy, I've pulled this thread back in order to ask you a question that surfaced in the thread about 7mm track gauges. Do you think the Metalsmiths turntable could be easily/with difficulty adpated to Scale Seven? Or not? Thanks, jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Hi Ozzy, I've pulled this thread back in order to ask you a question that surfaced in the thread about 7mm track gauges. Do you think the Metalsmiths turntable could be easily/with difficulty adpated to Scale Seven? Or not? Thanks, jeff. Hello JeffP, I would say that the TT. would be ease to change to Scale Seven, as all you would have to do was move each rail out by 1/2mm each, along with removing 1/2mm off each side of the wooden decks, if it's the same as the one I'm doing. The only hard part would be making sure that the rails were still central. Would you be getting it ready built? If so just ask for it to be built to Scale Severn. OzzyO. PS. I should be putting a post up later today. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 OzzyO. PS. I should be putting a post up later today. Good about time, Matey . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 I shan't be getting it ready-built. IF or when I get one, I want the pleasure of building it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Hello all, I'm back with quite a long post so get yourselves a brew or something stronger. The test plate marked out for the rivet test. With the rivets applied. Yes I have missed out some on the R/H test. The main double rows of rivets should have eight but the spacing on the Micro Mark sheet gives seven. With a coat of white primer applied. You can see some black lines but I think that this is the pencil lines showing. When I come to do the TT I think that I'll use something like an H or 2H lead. The same with a coat of cream applied, a lot of the rivets will be over-painted with chocolate so any dark marks should disappear. After a second coat and from a slightly different angle. The end deck planks in place and stained with Jacobian Dark Oak, the parts that are still light in colour are where the epoxy has squeezed out and require a bit of work. Our mate 3 link sent us this photo of a TT plate, and after a bit of work on it this is what we came up with. It may not be 100% but with out a good clear photo of the actual plate this is what we've gone for. Thanks again 3 link. As we mentioned we had asked Pete Harvey to do the artwork and have the plates etched for us. On the left is the first test etch, as you can see some of the words have been lost. On the middle etch after some work by Pete all the plates are nice and crisp, but we decided that we wanted the warning plate changed to the one above and that is shown on the plates on the right. If you want to know the price please ask Steve. If we want any one off plates doing for us again I know where we'll be going. At the moment that's it for the TT as I'm doing a small job on a loco. It's a 15xx kit that was built by C.R.T. kits. It's not picking up right so I'm fitting it with Alan Gibson 4mm plunger pick-ups. When I received the frames it was fitted with top acting wipers that were too short to spring and were very visible on the finished loco, I've removed them in this photo along with the wheels etc. In this photo you can see the angle that the con. rod runs from the cross head to the centre driver, as it's been mounted on the outside of the cross head. I'm looking at trying to change this but I'm not sure at the moment if this is a goer. The frames from the front. I wanted the paint off before I started any work so it was into the cellulose thinners to strip it off. So after a few hours this is what I got. Photos of both side and the front. As this still left quit a lot of paint on the frames I decided to try using caustic soda in the U/C (some people will use cellulose thinners in the U/C but I wont, heat and flammable liquid don't mix and I like my house as it is). When the frames went in this liquid was clear and after some time this is what it looked like, I ran it at 60degs for approx 1/2 hour. Some of the mess that was left. After this I gave the tank a good clean out with green (acid) Cilit Bang. Before using some clean water. The frames after all this work, any dark marks are just staining on the metal, this will all come off when it's grit blasted. I'm not changing the title to the thread at the moment as I'll be going back to the TT rebuild after this small? job. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Fascinating, as usual. Note to self: if/when you make your turntable, stain planks BEFORE fitting........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Great Stuff. the rivets look great especially after a few coats of paint. I must say a big thanks to Pete For the plates they look superb, It will really add to the quality of this turn table and will be quite unique. I cant say Ive seen another GWR turn table in 7mm curved or flat topper with the locking gear on. Pete I will be after some GWR triple reporting panels in the near future as well. I will PM you with some details soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Hi Guys, Those etches are the biz and will really stand out on the finished t/table Pete has done a great job, regarding the rivets I think there is not a lot of difference between them. In the bottom picture of the rivets I think the ones on the left look slightly better and of a more consistent size and shape in my opinion. As for the 15xx surely the poor little chap deserves some new cross heads and maybe con rods as well. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Fascinating, as usual. Note to self: if/when you make your turntable, stain planks BEFORE fitting........ Hi Guys, Those etches are the biz and will really stand out on the finished t/table Pete has done a great job, regarding the rivets I think there is not a lot of difference between them. In the bottom picture of the rivets I think the ones on the left look slightly better and of a more consistent size and shape in my opinion. As for the 15xx surely the poor little chap deserves some new cross heads and maybe con rods as well. ATB, Martyn. Hello both, JeffP, I wish I'd thought of that before you! But we can all learn from our own mistakes. Martyn, you were one of our biggest helps in getting the plates to look right, so thanks again. Pete has also done a fantastic job in doing the artwork and getting the plates etched with the scant information that we had. If they're wrong that's down to Steve and myself. If you can prove that we're wrong please post us a photo. Rivets. Now that's a good one, as the double row of rivets are the same on both sides of the photo. All that I had changed is the four short rows of rivets, one has three (L/H) and one has four (R/H). I do agree that the one on the L/H side looks better. 15xx. I agree that it would/could look better with some better valve gear. But I have been asked to get it running at minimum cost. As I don't have the body to work with/to I don't want to alter the frames too much as well. If Bill at Premier did a set of valve gear and I was building it from the start I may have looked at using them. The thing that I don't understand is why it has been built with the con rods on the outside of the cross heads. If anyone has a set of instructions for this kit could/would you please let me have a look at them, frames only. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 Hello all, after cleaning the frames of paint I also cleaned the wheels, and this is what I seen, as you can see the balance weights are a bit misplaced some of them will have to come off, also the wheels have the wrong number of spokes. The frames after a grit blasting. I've now ordered a set of coupling rods from Bill at Premier, so things are moving on. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Ozzyo I was thinking the same about the rods. 4mm by the way. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 Hello all, during the week I had a bit of a panic on my hands as I couldn't find the makers plates for the TT, nor the plates that Pete has just done, so after having a good look in the work shop nothing. So I thought where would the wife put them and yes that's where they were. So I fitted one with a bit of Blue Tack to see how it looked. Then it was back to the wheels, as you can see there's a bit of flash running on to the rim. I like to remove this as it can cause problems with the pick-ups. To remove it I rub them on a length of wet'n'dry that is glued down on to a length of wood. After the above the wheels were drilled 1.4mm reddy to be taped 10BA for the crank pins. Then the front and backs of the rims were blacked using Birchwood Casey, Before blackening I clean up the rims with Meths. Some of the balance weights have taken the blackening but I'm not worried about this as the paint should not get chipped on them. I have ordered a set of coupling rod from Bill at Premier so with a bit of luck I'll have them next week. The real makers plate Blue Tacked in place. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Ha !! So you tried to catch us out with the first plate, you can't fool me as nothing that complicated could be build north of Manchester . I'll get me coat.............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Ha !! So you tried to catch us out with the first plate, you can't fool me as nothing that complicated could be build north of Manchester . I'll get me coat.............. Err, nuclear subs, Sulzer engines, and a few other bits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Hello all, I asked for the body to be sent to me as some of the things that I'm going to do to the frames may affect the fit of the body. It was well packed (maybe to well packed) as the cab steps were bent, not a big job. The first job is to remove all the etched plates and then all the paint. To remove the paint I think that I'll have to grit blast it off as I don't know how the resin would react to cellulose thinners or caustic soda. The body from above. And from below. I'm not sure what will happen to these yet. I'm not going to go to mad on the detail as I was just asked to get it running OK, as this has been the biggest problem with the loco, but we shall see. If anyone knows if someone does a set of motion for this loco, would you please let me know, Bill at Premier does the coupling rods but not the motion. Maybe a nice copper caped chimney as well. So any pointers would help. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hello all, I got the 15xx body in to the grit blaster yesterday to remove the paint and there was a lot of it! But when I was removing it from the tank sides, it appeared that the gum from the totem was not coming off. So I thought that I'd better have a close look at it, and this is what I found!!!!!!!! Now I thought that this sort of thing went out years ago. This was not all that I found, but more on that later. Some photos of the body after grit blasting, from above. And from below. When the paint was removed and I started to look over the body, this is what I started to find, this is the under side of the tanks. That was only the start of it! On the boiler and tank tops it looked like a well know chocolate bar that's full of bubbles (that's OK in the chocolate bar but in a loco body?). If I'd been building this loco the body would have gone back for replacement. The cleaning up also showed up the mismatch in the size of the smokebox and the boiler. I have seen bad kits built well and a nice job made of them and I have seen good kits built badly, I am not going to say any thing about this kit or the build, I'm going to leave that up to you the reader. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 The molded crest saves on transfers all that is needed is a few hours of painting instead. That boiler is not a milkybar I think it is more like an Aero. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hmmm, Never seen a molded crest before and the safety valve cover looks a bit crooked, you can get this synthetic filler now that the aero (pardon the pun ) modeller use that will fill those holes in a jiffy. I've got some upstairs I'll go and get the name for you, ahhh yes it made by a firm called " Deluxe Materials" and it's called Model Lite definitely woth a try. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 It looks like to was cast without the use of a vacuum system and some very vigorously badly mixed resin. Pity you cannot get a replacement as it could do with one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Wow! Is it a case of, "I wish I'd never asked him to send me the body...?" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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