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Building a G.W.R. Castle + more in 7mm OF from a JLTRT kit restarts on P.88 by OzzyO,


ozzyo

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... Plenty of curry and beer I think is the answer!!!

Sandy

I've been out on the pop with Ozzyo a few times (in my youth) when he's tried this, and been there the next day!!!!

He never told me it was to cure piles, or may not have tried it either......

 

Glad to see your keeping well and busy Paul

 

Ian

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Hi All,

 

Curry and beer - that's the human digestive system's equivalent to the high pressure steam lance used on western engines to blast the soot out of boiler tubes isn't it?

 

I'll get my coat...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hello all,

 

when I was on nights in heavy engineering 25+ years ago I worked with a fellow called Doug who had the Jonny Jiles, all you would hear was Prrrrrrrrrap then poor old Doug hobbling down to the traps to push his bunch of grapes back in.

 

OzzyO. 

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Hello all,

 

after our slight detour it's back to some modelling for you Sandy.

 

The pick up wires all soldered together and soldered to the motor terminals. All these will be tided up later. After this photo was taken the frames were run on my auto test track for about four hours, very pleased to report nice and smooth, only two small problems nothing unusual on a first test run. The weights that are on the frames are some white metal flywheels that I cast and turned up some years ago. To stop them failing off all I did was fasten two 8BA X 1" screws to the front and rear frame spacers.

post-8920-0-27605600-1359825471_thumb.jpg 

 

As I mentioned a while back the customer has asked to see the frames running, so while I'm sorting that out. I'd like to get this Mod. Hall finished off and delivered at the same time.

 

The following photos show how far I'm on with the loco.

The boiler from both sides. Just a few bits to add.

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The frames R/H side from above and below.

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post-8920-0-54363400-1359825592_thumb.jpg

 

The frames L/H side from above and below.

post-8920-0-73106600-1359825605_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-87697000-1359825579_thumb.jpg

 

The footplate, looking at this there's not much work to do on this.

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A close up of the mech. lub. parts and the pipe work.

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The feed water pipe and the reach rod.

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The main jobs look to be, the backhead, some detailing, cleaning up and painting. (I hope).

 

OzzyO. 

 

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Hello all,

 

when I was on nights in heavy engineering 25+ years ago I worked with a fellow called Doug who had the Jonny Jiles, all you would hear was Prrrrrrrrrap then poor old Doug hobbling down to the traps to push his bunch of grapes back in.

 

OzzyO. 

Oh, that's awful. Poor bloke having the Nobbies....

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Ozzy, have we any info about those rods yet?

 

And can you tell me, (us), what wire is used for the oil feed pipes, it looks like fusewire?

 

 

Hello JeffP, all,

 

the wire that I use is tinned copper wire (fuse wire) from Rapid Electronics in 500 gram. reels, I tend to use sizes from 30SWG up to 14SWG (0.32mm to 2.00mm), for the oil feed pipes I tend to use 0.46mm to 0.56mm. These sizes may be a bit over scale but sometimes you have to do that to make it look right.

 

N15class, IIRC, you can buy the resin boiler from J.L.T.R.T. for about £30.00, I think that they do about 3 or 4 types for the Halls. In this kit you only get the resin boiler no brass boiler.  I don't mind making brass boilers but why spend a day or more making a brass one when you can get one of these!

 

OzzyO. 

 

PS. I'll let you all know about the rods when I find out.

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Would that be "ring of fire" by any chance?

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. put the toilet roil in the fridge for morning.

 

When I was having my vasectomy, the surgeon had " great balls of fire " playing on his CD, obviously had a sense of humour :stinker: .

 

Martyn.

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Hello all,

 

I have spoken to the customer today about the rods, these are a modified set of rods from Bill at Premier components.

 

In the past I have used the following rods, but I don't know where these came from at all.

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post-8920-0-11417800-1359896182_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.

 

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Hello all,

 

JeffP, I'm not sure about the Mods. to the coupling rods, but it involves getting two sets of rods and cutting the middle of them about and making the forked joint.

 

PeteH, the wheels are done to my normal way, metal black the front and rear of the rims and then spray black with a black etching primer.

 

Back on to the build. I have been doing some cleaning up. The frames before.

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After the frames have been grit blasted (G/B) and ultrasonic cleaning (U/S). I think? G/B for sure but not sure about U/S.

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The running plate before,

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and after. But before U/S.

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The parts for the dummy valve gear all laid out, to give an idea of scale the rule is in 1mm increments. The part at the L/H end represents the rocking link from the inside valve gear. This is two lengths of L angle brass sweated together and them drilled and filed to shape.

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All the parts pinned and soldered together, all the joints will move (this is not needed on this build) but I may see about getting it to work on the County build that I'm doing!

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In place along with the front sand box.

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The parts for the R/H cross-head, vac. pump and it's mounting bracket. The mounting bracket is made up of four parts, two bits of 6mm L angle brass, one length of 3mm brass and a short length of 5mm  brass. I solder all this together and then solder it in place after drilling it 0.7mm so I can tap the brackets 14BA.

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The 6mm L angle bracket in place after the mounting bar has been removed, these may have been taped 14BA but I'm not sure? The blackening is felt tip pen to try and stop the mounting bar soldering to the brackets when I come to solder the vac. pump in place.

post-8920-0-69202000-1360323432_thumb.jpg

 

The mounting bracket screwed in place. This is one of the few parts that I make removable from the frames. This is to help me when I come to paint the frames as it means that I can drop the R/H cross head and rod out (so no masking of them). But I'll still have a lot of masking to do. Slide bars, axle box's etc.

post-8920-0-01170100-1360323454_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO. 

 

 

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